Bushwack

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About Bushwack

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    ~ www.ReattaRally.com

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  1. The authority on collector cars

    Not necessarily. "Muscle Cars" have been in favor since the early 1980s (35+ years ago); only 8-12 years after production There's a cycle to it all just as many Trans Ams, Corvettes and Z28s from 1974 - 1982 have been appreciating the last several years. Hopefully the older one is, the more discretionary funds are available. But with the slow demise of the middle class, we'll see many purchases in the near future (if not already occurring) coming from 'family' money (25 - 40 yr olds).
  2. The authority on collector cars

    Sounds like you are diminishing Mr Kinney's credentials. Also, I think its easier to pick stocks for investments than it is a car as future collectible. But in a broader scope, I don't disagree with you. Buy what you like (if it is a driver). If one is a collector, Mr. Kinney's words are worth listening to carefully. I particularly found it interesting when he said production numbers are lower on the list (than most would expect) regarding valuation. He states it is the impact the car had when new (and continues to have), it's ownership (history), and so on. One reason why the muscle car era is still in favor with collectors.
  3. Just released video on what makes a collector car (more applied to cars 2000 and forward but still worth seeing). Dave Kinney from Hagerty discusses what makes a car a classic, determination of value and so on. Don't necessarily agree with his list but he is the authority most people refer to regarding classic cars, valuation, etc. Get yourself a soda and chips and enjoy.
  4. NOS Steering Wheels on ebay

    Make an offer! Also, I've had two steering wheels re-covered. A 1990 (without the airbag) was done locally (in L.A.) and a 1989 was sent out to a guy in (Dallas?) Texas. Both looked great. L.A. bill was almost $400 and Texas came out to $235 (or thereabouts). Gotta love big city living (and expenses). BTW, just returned from Des Moines. That city surprised me (in good ways!).
  5. Trying to decide

    Reattas being collected, yes. As a collectible (as in maintaining or appreciating in value)? Not yet (even as many predicted it would once it hit the 25 year mark). Crossfire is in better shape as a collectible than the Reatta for reasons mentioned earlier yet its 1/2 its age. There were also 3x as many Crossfires produced as Reattas so parts will be plentiful for many years (shared most parts with the MB SLK). Not bashing on the Reatta but if someone was to ask me which of the two is the better value, today it would have to be the Crossfire.
  6. Trying to decide

    I wouldn't be concerned about the incorrectness of the Reatta. The market doesn't value it as a collectible (only this forum does and most likely, your buyer isn't here). Use CL and eBay as a guide what your asking price should be and calculate @ 10% less for your selling price. Ignore Hemmings and AutoTrader. The Crossfire is a keeper. The Chrysler/Mercedes 'partnership' for this car helps with its value. And that it's a stick in a world where sticks are disappearing only helps its cause.
  7. Clear Coat Repair / Replacement

    I don't have hands-on experience about the paint process so I'll pass along what I've been told by the owner of a body/paint shop. I was picking his brain when I asked him re-apply clear coat to three center brake light housings for convertibles (paint was clean on all three but the clear coat 'vanished'). BTW, a common problem for convertibles except for those painted red (go figure). Basically, he said he had to strip the paint on each piece for the clear coat to stick (and stay). Even though the paint on the housings was impeccable and I did clay all three pieces. Nevertheless the contaminants that were hidden would have the clear coat come up within 3-4 years (he compared the process to how someone would re-apply floor tile without first breaking away the old tile and the old adhesive/float). For $150, he went ahead and striped down all three to metal, repaint (two silver and one white) and re-coat. So to answer your question, I suppose to do it right so the clear coat adheres to the paint, you should strip the paint and repaint/re=clear coat.
  8. FS: '90 Convertible

    A friend sent me this listing (in Reno) for a 1990 black/gray convertible. If anyone is interested,.... https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/6202496117.html Looks relatively clean for $3,500.
  9. Buying A Reatta...what process is best

    I'm not looking to sell anyone on a Reatta. The businessman in me says let them all get crushed (maybe that will help these cars appreciate). The realist in me knows these cars will not achieve desirable collectible status for the next many years. My estimate on expenses are based on the depleted funds in my checking account the past few years. Maybe in Small Town, MO (where the OP is from) labor is cheap. But in L.A., labor runs between $115 - $140/hr for an independent shop (my Lexus dealer is at $155/hr for my daily driver and the Benz dealer is at $175 to service my 280SL). And I'm sure parts are significantly more expensive in L.A. (and most major cities) than Small Town, MO. Go ahead and buy parts from Rock Auto or Amazon and have your mechanic install them. Of course, he'll tell you he either buys the parts to install (it is his liability + part of his profit) or take your business elsewhere. BTW, struts, shocks, mounting kits on Amazon is about $315 (probably 30% more as the dealer will want to supply the parts or let you walk). Add 4 hrs of labor and you have your wallet significantly lighter. As for converting to 134A, if the a/c hasn't been turned on (or blowing cold) for a long while (which most have not for peeps who are selling their Reattas), dollar to donuts (as some older gents like to say), a conversion isn't going to help. In fact, I'd bank on my own advice. You'll need a new compressor. Ka-Ching! Speaking of the OP, he doesn't want to work on the car. He wants a Reatta that's "good-to-go". BFD if these cars are "hand built". If that meant anything, they'd be worth 2x or 3x their current selling price. Or, maybe because they are hand built, they are not worth less than what they are selling for (the ying-yang theory). I'm not on Team Reatta. I've regurgitated that long ago (btw, that's liberal thinking I will not be apart of). I'm on the team of value, truth and realism as I've experienced it. And if I can help someone out based on my experiences, that's a good thing. YMMV.
  10. Buying A Reatta...what process is best

    Don't go to a corner auto re-seller. My neighbor's golden retriever knows more about Reattas then they do. Let Craigslist, eBay or AutoTrader be your friend. Buy from a private party. If you can't personally inspect the car, documentation, documentation and more documentation. Make sure it is RUST FREE (get a picture of the under-carriage or look elsewhere). And run the VIN on a car that interests you. Remember: It's just a car. Rare in some areas (very few on the west coast) and relatively plentiful elsewhere (there's about 12-14M running of 21,700+ built). Most likely the Reatta you buy will either drop in value or maintain its value. Appraisals are worth the paper written on. Go by street price. As a loose guideline, whatever the asking price, it will probably sell for 10-15% Most likely its been for sale for some time and the seller wants to move on; happy he's found a sucker willing to take it off his hands. The Reatta you buy will come with problems. Could be the headlight cover won't open (an easy fix) or the a/c isn't working (don't believe it needs only Freon). Yes, it needs Freon...and a $1,200 compressor. ABS warning light stays illuminated. In your case, walk away. If it was an easy fix, the seller would have done it. Door ajar light stays on? Not a mechanical issue. Shocks need replacing??? $1,000. FWIW, when you buy a Reatta (or any used car), make sure your budget includes flush/fill all fluids. Even if the seller shows you a recent Jiffy Lube reciept, I'd still have my trusty mechanic change all the fluids. Find a Reatta you like and ask the forum their opinion if its worthy of ownership. That's what we're here for (and for the free popcorn). We use to have free entertainment, but he was too big for the room and taken off the marquee (conversation for another time).
  11. Buying A Reatta...what process is best

    While the majority of people in this forum are tech/mechanically savvy, *I* am not. I've owned 13 Reattas and with the help of this forum and a good mechanic, when a mechanical repair was needed, it wasn't anything out of the ordinary that couldn't be done on another make/model. I have had the front wheels speed sensors changed, new a/c compressor installed, brake fluid flushed, etc. The one thing I had done "out of the ordinary" (and in hindsight wasn't necessary and an expensive lesson) was have the Teves system replaced. That was done on my first Reatta (and before finding this forum). Any other brake related issues were remedied either with replacing the accumulator or a wheel speed sensor. A mechanically sound, rust free, good body/paint Reatta is a collectible car that you can find for under $5,000. Keep in mind its a "collectible" because its over 25 yrs old. Not because its desirable in the collector car market. Find one. Buy one. Enjoy and when you want to move on to something else, most likely you will get your purchase price returned to you on the sale.
  12. Buying A Reatta...what process is best

    Whereabouts do you call home, stranger?
  13. Reatta...WANTED!

    I know someone wanting to purchase a 1990 Reatta coupe. While partial towards white or red, any color combination would do. It must be rust free (light surface rust acceptable). Odometer reading is secondary as long as it’s a car in very good condition inside and out. If you have an 88 or '89 (or '91) for sale, some arm twisting might be needed to have the buyer consider it. But it surely doesn't hurt to let me know if you have one available. If you have one for sale, please e-mail me directly at Ervin@ReattaRally.com
  14. Car show video

    Not Reatta related (although I could have displayed my car for the paltry sum of a $250 entrance fee), but I attended the 2017 Concourse De'Elegance in Beverly Hills (always held on Father's Day). The city closes off the retail streets of Rodeo Drive (3 blocks plus a couple cross streets) to display cars from the early 1900s (earliest I saw was a 1906 Benz) to the present. There were some older Bugattis, Delahayes, a Tucker, a 1948 Buick convertible, Cadillacs, Rolls Royce, etc. Some of the newer cars were from Ferrari, Lambo, Alfa & McLaren. The link below is a video of about 30-35 of the cars on display. Video is a little jumpy as I used my cell phone (I brought my fancy camera but forgot the battery pack). Enjoy.
  15. Don Kinas passing

    Sorry to hear of Don's passing. Never had the chance to meet or speak to him but I heard he was a well respected man of few words. Having read his obituary, it states he worked at Lou Ehlers Buick after he got out of the service. Coincidence, I think not but in Los Angeles from circa 1955-2010, there was a Lou Ehlers Cadillac (also briefly a GMC & Buick dealership in the 1970s), Until the mid 1980s, celebrities and those in a certain tax bracket bought their Cadillac(s) either from Lou Ehlers on Wilshire Blvd (in the ritzy Hancock Park area of L.A.) or Hillcrest Cadillac in Beverly Hills (also on Wilshire Blvd). Hillcrest opened in Beverly Hills in 1927 and closed around 1986 as more people were buying luxury brands from anywhere other than American made (the location has been a Lexus dealership since 1990). Lou Ehlers Cadillac eventually closed in 2007 also as people were buying BMWs, Lexus & MBs and ignoring domestic brands (its closing was first announced in 2005). Buildings on the site were demolished and replaced with a very, VERY large BMW dealership (http://www.bmwofbeverlyhills.com/). On a related note, in a city the size of L.A. (including Beverly Hills, Santa Monica, Bel-Air, Culver City, Venice) - portions of the city west of downtown to the ocean (where the average household income is high), there is only one Caddy dealership (Martin Cadillac in West Los Angeles). And Martin Cadillac sales have been abysmal the past few years (per the dealership). Yes, one Caddy dealer serving the westside and mid-Wilshire area with a population of 950,000. ...and Martin Cadillac will be closing its doors this summer to be replaced with multi-story office buildings/business park (land value too much to keep it as a dealership). Went off on a bit of a tangent. Being born, raised and living in Los Angeles, I remain astonished there's only one Caddy dealership serving 950,000. On the flip side, I see more high end BMWs, MBs and Lexus (and even Bentleys) on the westside than I do Cadillacs or Lincolns. Why Caddy doesn't/hasn't made a push for a presence in affluent areas of L.A. remains a mystery. Times of changed (at least here in SoCal).