Bushwack

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About Bushwack

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    ~ www.ReattaRally.com

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    http://www.reattarally.com

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  1. LeBra 55341-01

    Here's a collage of a Reatta now on eBay that has the LeBra installed.
  2. On eBay

    http://www.ebay.com/itm/1989-Buick-Reatta-/132311079257?hash=item1ece5ad959%3Ag%3Ae1wAAOSwX99ZpYIz&autorefresh=true&vxp=mtr&nma=true&si=CXq4XN5Vt4rt3t8PkOnFL1ol8LM%3D&orig_cvip=true&rt=nc&_trksid=p2047675.l2557 Low mileage 1989 Reatta seems decent yet couldn't climb to $2,600. If interested, contact the seller and try and work something out.
  3. I disagree and let me be more specific: The streets in both Boulder County & Weld County used salt on the roads from 1995-1999 (when I was in Colorado). I had a newly paved private parking lot damaged due to county vehicles parking in the lot (and not the grass lot next door as they were instructed). Damage wasn't tracking (i.e.: tires or grates) but salt deposits and what looked like asphalt rust. It was a red/tan residue tint mixed in with the salt when applied that was suppose to allow the salt to work quicker. County engineers tried to dismiss the cause. At my expense I had an independent consultant/engineer dig up random samples to test to make the determination. Boulder County wouldn't admit fault but we did settle days before our court date with a substantial reimbursement check for repairs.
  4. Old topic on 1990 Select Sixty cars

    I thought cars that GM sold during their "bad times" could not be re-sold.
  5. I lived in Colorado for 3 years. I saw how people treat their cars (especially during winter). There's always the exception but the probability is significant that there is measurable rust on a 170,000 mile car. I doubt it was driven only when the sun shines.
  6. Seller will include the undercarriage rust for free!
  7. The authority on collector cars

    Not necessarily. "Muscle Cars" have been in favor since the early 1980s (35+ years ago); only 8-12 years after production There's a cycle to it all just as many Trans Ams, Corvettes and Z28s from 1974 - 1982 have been appreciating the last several years. Hopefully the older one is, the more discretionary funds are available. But with the slow demise of the middle class, we'll see many purchases in the near future (if not already occurring) coming from 'family' money (25 - 40 yr olds).
  8. The authority on collector cars

    Sounds like you are diminishing Mr Kinney's credentials. Also, I think its easier to pick stocks for investments than it is a car as future collectible. But in a broader scope, I don't disagree with you. Buy what you like (if it is a driver). If one is a collector, Mr. Kinney's words are worth listening to carefully. I particularly found it interesting when he said production numbers are lower on the list (than most would expect) regarding valuation. He states it is the impact the car had when new (and continues to have), it's ownership (history), and so on. One reason why the muscle car era is still in favor with collectors.
  9. Just released video on what makes a collector car (more applied to cars 2000 and forward but still worth seeing). Dave Kinney from Hagerty discusses what makes a car a classic, determination of value and so on. Don't necessarily agree with his list but he is the authority most people refer to regarding classic cars, valuation, etc. Get yourself a soda and chips and enjoy.
  10. NOS Steering Wheels on ebay

    Make an offer! Also, I've had two steering wheels re-covered. A 1990 (without the airbag) was done locally (in L.A.) and a 1989 was sent out to a guy in (Dallas?) Texas. Both looked great. L.A. bill was almost $400 and Texas came out to $235 (or thereabouts). Gotta love big city living (and expenses). BTW, just returned from Des Moines. That city surprised me (in good ways!).
  11. Trying to decide

    Reattas being collected, yes. As a collectible (as in maintaining or appreciating in value)? Not yet (even as many predicted it would once it hit the 25 year mark). Crossfire is in better shape as a collectible than the Reatta for reasons mentioned earlier yet its 1/2 its age. There were also 3x as many Crossfires produced as Reattas so parts will be plentiful for many years (shared most parts with the MB SLK). Not bashing on the Reatta but if someone was to ask me which of the two is the better value, today it would have to be the Crossfire.
  12. Trying to decide

    I wouldn't be concerned about the incorrectness of the Reatta. The market doesn't value it as a collectible (only this forum does and most likely, your buyer isn't here). Use CL and eBay as a guide what your asking price should be and calculate @ 10% less for your selling price. Ignore Hemmings and AutoTrader. The Crossfire is a keeper. The Chrysler/Mercedes 'partnership' for this car helps with its value. And that it's a stick in a world where sticks are disappearing only helps its cause.
  13. Clear Coat Repair / Replacement

    I don't have hands-on experience about the paint process so I'll pass along what I've been told by the owner of a body/paint shop. I was picking his brain when I asked him re-apply clear coat to three center brake light housings for convertibles (paint was clean on all three but the clear coat 'vanished'). BTW, a common problem for convertibles except for those painted red (go figure). Basically, he said he had to strip the paint on each piece for the clear coat to stick (and stay). Even though the paint on the housings was impeccable and I did clay all three pieces. Nevertheless the contaminants that were hidden would have the clear coat come up within 3-4 years (he compared the process to how someone would re-apply floor tile without first breaking away the old tile and the old adhesive/float). For $150, he went ahead and striped down all three to metal, repaint (two silver and one white) and re-coat. So to answer your question, I suppose to do it right so the clear coat adheres to the paint, you should strip the paint and repaint/re=clear coat.
  14. FS: '90 Convertible

    A friend sent me this listing (in Reno) for a 1990 black/gray convertible. If anyone is interested,.... https://reno.craigslist.org/cto/6202496117.html Looks relatively clean for $3,500.
  15. Buying A Reatta...what process is best

    I'm not looking to sell anyone on a Reatta. The businessman in me says let them all get crushed (maybe that will help these cars appreciate). The realist in me knows these cars will not achieve desirable collectible status for the next many years. My estimate on expenses are based on the depleted funds in my checking account the past few years. Maybe in Small Town, MO (where the OP is from) labor is cheap. But in L.A., labor runs between $115 - $140/hr for an independent shop (my Lexus dealer is at $155/hr for my daily driver and the Benz dealer is at $175 to service my 280SL). And I'm sure parts are significantly more expensive in L.A. (and most major cities) than Small Town, MO. Go ahead and buy parts from Rock Auto or Amazon and have your mechanic install them. Of course, he'll tell you he either buys the parts to install (it is his liability + part of his profit) or take your business elsewhere. BTW, struts, shocks, mounting kits on Amazon is about $315 (probably 30% more as the dealer will want to supply the parts or let you walk). Add 4 hrs of labor and you have your wallet significantly lighter. As for converting to 134A, if the a/c hasn't been turned on (or blowing cold) for a long while (which most have not for peeps who are selling their Reattas), dollar to donuts (as some older gents like to say), a conversion isn't going to help. In fact, I'd bank on my own advice. You'll need a new compressor. Ka-Ching! Speaking of the OP, he doesn't want to work on the car. He wants a Reatta that's "good-to-go". BFD if these cars are "hand built". If that meant anything, they'd be worth 2x or 3x their current selling price. Or, maybe because they are hand built, they are not worth less than what they are selling for (the ying-yang theory). I'm not on Team Reatta. I've regurgitated that long ago (btw, that's liberal thinking I will not be apart of). I'm on the team of value, truth and realism as I've experienced it. And if I can help someone out based on my experiences, that's a good thing. YMMV.