• Content count

  • Joined

  • Last visited

Community Reputation

15 Good


Profile Information

  • Gender:
  • Location:
    Livermore, CA
  1. When I did mine I took a piece of poster board and contoured it to the fender including a datum point then to drill the holes for the other side I just turned the paper inside out and used it as a template. Did the same thing with the hole for the adjuster stalk.
  2. These cars already have a pretty awful scrub radius leftover from the original bias play tires needing to be "pushed around" rather than pivoted on the point of rotation. If you have to push the wheels out farther, it's just getting worse. However fixing it would require longer control arms to push the kingpin axis out closer to the middle of the tire and shorten up the scrub and should improve tire clearance at lock since it rotating more about it's center vs being swung around the inner sidewall. Definitely agree though that too little sidewall is going to give you a less compliant ride. I think 18's with a 45-55 series sidewall look pretty good. 19's would match the original OD better but there is still more rim with no more sidewall. We'll see what I end up with on mine because 15's won't clear anything more than 12in brakes and 15in tire selection is pretty bad.
  3. I'll weigh the stock setup and this setup with the spacers when I get them completed. I'll leave the wheels out of it as the weights of the steelies and the road wheels is something I suspect is either covered or close enough to equal to not matter in this case. For me I intend these to be more than bling, I intend to use them and their eventual replacements/upgrades.
  4. This project isn't as direly critical as I once thought it was. Since I've done some other work on the brake system, namely changed out the master to admittedly a disc unit and shortened the pedal ratio, the original drum brakes have been working much much better than they originally did when I couldn't get them to lock no mater how hard I tried. I'm still going for discs since my goal for the car is something more canyon carver and backroad blaster. I hope these things will be just as good if not better than the stock AlFin drums and will set the stage hardware wise for my later plans for more performance oriented wheels and tires that will allow even bigger brakes. Sizing wise I'm taking my cues from HiPo SUV's that have popped up recently such as the Porsche Cayenne and the Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8. But this is down the road a bit.
  5. What's left Mostly cosmetic work cleaning up the wheels, spindles, and brackets before prime and paint. Functionally I need to bend and mount the hardline adapter to bridge to the braided steel flex lines and then install them. Oh and I have to do the machine work on the other side but that I have mostly figured out so it's more execution vs. figuring it out. Cosmetically I am considering machining the NISSAN off of the calipers but road wheels don't really show much so I'm not sold on doing that since it does slightly dampen the value of the calipers if I resell them later.
  6. Fast forward a lot of time since I've moved three times, and traveled a ton in my current job and I've finally wrapped up machining the 3D features into that bracket and getting it all fit up. I did end up having to rethread the weird M13-1.75UF threads into 1/2-20's so I could actually get button head fasteners but it fits. The caliper almost clear the wheels without a spacer but I didn't want to grind any on the stiffening ribs so I went ahead and just got a pair of 1/8in spacers off of eBay to hold the wheels off just a bit more. Here it is from the front side And a close up of the adapter on the back of the spindle And a final picture with the raw adapter blank
  7. To fit inside of 15in wheels, that 12in rotor is pretty much as big as you can go, definitely so with the fixed 4-piston calipers that I prefer. Fit the caliper up in free space with some bailing wire to hold it to the rotor and spindle, then slipped some cardboard under the caliper to hold it off of the rotor and bring the pads to the edge of the rotor for maximum bolt clearance to the spindle. One of the bolt holes from the calipers is pretty much going to end up under the spindle body. In this picture you can already see the start of a 3/8in plate steel bracket I was working up for the adapter. There isn't much clearance between the stock wheel cylinder boss and the back of the rotor, only 3/16in. This meant I pretty much had to machine down the boss 1/8in to it would have enough room for a bolt head since machining the spindle is cheaper than buying a counter sink and the more specialized 9/16-18NF counter sunk cap screws. Overall that means I have one plane on the lower boss on one face of the 3/8in thick adapter, a middle plane 1/8in deeper for the caliper bolts, and a final 1/8in off of the backside to fit the upper bolt into. I had the parts water jet cut off of the CAD model I designed but only the 2D bulk part was cut and I had to machine the rest. You can see in the rendering the three different plane as well as that ball mill clearance for a stiffening rib on the caliper mount.
  8. Howdy, Finally going to get my poop in a group and put out a thread on the front disc brake project I've been working on for what has to be 5yrs at least now. I know this isn't for everyone and just like those bearing holders I posted earlier I don't really feel comfortable with putting this out for sale due to liability. The basic components are Nissan 87-94 R32 Skyline 4 piston calipers 1971-76 Riviera/73-87 C-10 HD front rotor and hub units, note it has to be the HD model of C-10 since they need to be 1.25in or 32mm thick 66-70 Riviera/65-70 Fullsized "symmetric" front spindle Suitable wheels, in my case the 67-70 specific disc brake wheels I choose the "symmetric" spindle since it allows you to bolt to the unused leading edge holes. Obviously something has to bridge the gap between the caliper and the spindle.
  9. Column is pretty easy to get out. All I remember undoing was that 12pt bolt you mentioned, the harness for the signal unit, the horn wire, and the two bolts holding it to the underside of the dash. After that I just had to pull and wiggle it out of the grommet at the floor board and it came out.
  10. Does anyone have a track bar bushing out measure the length of the inner sleeve and the OD of the housing on the bar? With enough room a Currie Johnny Joint: would be better than a straight hiem, even a PTFE self lubricated one. The bearing surfaces are urethane and would give you pretty good dampening characteristics. Side Note: You can't use one of those in the front lower control position since the smallest diameter a Johnny Joint sleeve comes in is 2.0in and the diameter of the frame hole is only 1.81in and I doubt anyone wants to cut the frame. Another thing to remember is the Rivieras are body on frame so those squishy body mounts add a lot of isolation.
  11. Sounds like there wasn't a good "light seal" between the light and the window to keep it from shining across the whole window. I like this idea and it's been rattling around in my head as an idea for that 3rd brake light that didn't block the rear window view.
  12. The main reason I'd not want to do this if you loosen the nut up, how are you sure it's going to stay on? The inner sleeve is serrated and is likely to grip the arm even after you get it loose under even the most moderate torque needed to hold the bolt in place. I'm wondering how much of that you'd see on the Riviera since it's both body on frame with rubber body mounts and already has steel on steel upper control arm bushings in the front vs. the Mustang's unibody design with no isolators between the cabin and the suspension mounting points. I'm hoping the PTFE liners in the spherical bearings help dampen it as well.
  13. Most American cars of the era are under sprung, meaning the spring has too low of a rate causing the car to wallow and roll a lot. The old bias ply oriented suspension in the new radial world doesn't help either. I'm planning on putting either steel or air "coilovers" on the car to be able to play with the ride height and spring rate quasi independently as well as gain the adjustability of the newer adjustable shocks. I'm in the process of radically redesigning the front suspension but time and budget means I need to stick to parts that work with the stock control arms to begin with. The control arms are really out of the question since the ball joints don't interchange with later stuff and I'm not in the mood to ream my spindles to match. Additionally the spindles are way too short to work well with modern negative camber curve geometry. The upper control arm is pretty simple, cut a stock control arm down to basically the bearing housings, weld on doubler plates to increase the thickness to 3/8in where the clevis pins will bolt through, then use a Howe/Afco modular upper ball joint collar ring to install a K772 upper thread in ball joint. Bridge the gap with swadged tube or internally threaded tube to get your A-arm. Near infinite adjustment as long as you keep the thread engagement high on the clevis and collars. The lowers are probably going to be cut and extended lowers with either a hybrid K772 body with K727 stud or straight K727 ball joint collar welded into the stock hole. Here's a rendering of my spindle with rotor and hub: It's based off of a Coleman Modular design but uses a 2006-2010 Jeep Grand Cherokee SRT8 wheel hub that has been for my application ( don't like the SRT8 brakes or wheel options that clear the fixed calipers) redrilled for 5x130mm which is Volkswagen Auto Group SUV (VAG Touareg, Q7, and Cayenne) bolt pattern since that keeps the wheels and brakes matched together. You can go from a basic 4 piston setup for 17in wheels (330mm or 13in rotors) to a 6 piston setup for 18in wheels (350mm or 13.75in rotors) to a crazy 410mm carbon ceramic rotor option that I think takes 20 or 21in wheels. There's another option at 390mm but it's not as common so while I'm planning on using 19in wheels to keep the sidewall up but the tire selection good for performance (255/45R19), I'm not planning around those brakes. Here's a Riv with what I think are the same size tires (not sure if they are 18's or 19's but 255/45):
  14. I've been working on a project that I started a few years ago thanks to a generous forum member who took a bunch of measurements of the front lower control arm bushing and it's frame sleeve. What I've come up with is a not quite drop in replacement as the frame sleeve will need to be knocked out but a way to put a spherical bearing in that position to help free things up. This will require a decent set of brake reaction rod bushings to control the fore and aft shift of the control arm since there isn't any rubber to mitigate movement in the bushing anymore. The basic components are a machined steel sleeve that replaces the frame sleeve on the car, a spherical bearing retained in the center with a snap right, two spacers to allow the lower control arm to clamp onto the bearing like stock and finally a pair of seals to keep crud out of the bearing. The spherical bearing can be any that meet the common "-12" spec but I've specifically speced out one with a PTFE liner in it for long life and a bit of cushion for impact. I know in the rendering the spacer on the non snap ring side is hitting the lip, I will radius that corner since it shouldn't have much "run out" to need a large relief. I plan to pack it full of grease after it's assembled but before I put the seals on. Since I'm going to tack weld it into the frame I don't really want it loaded when I do that. Now since I'm not a company or a PE, I can't really offer these for sale without a huge liability exposure on my part at this time. I am also planning on addressing the brake reaction rod issue by replacing the rubber biscuits with a circle track ball joint that, unfortunately not as cleanly, requires opening up the frame hole to 1 7/8in since I don't feel the bearing that would fit in the existing hole would take the load that location sees. This would connect via internally threaded rods (the type used in circle track racers) to a plate bolted into the stock rod location with an HD clevis pin to allow alignment adjustment.
  15. Howdy, I thought I saw someone mention that they had swapped a Cadillac tilt telescope column into their 1st Gen Riviera. Anyone done it, have any reference to how it was done, or other information? I'd like to keep my stock steering wheel as well. Thanks