1910Hupp

Jeff - you do nice work -Even though I made my own mat -I did it with very limited knowledge of what was original -Hence I would be keen to buy one of yours when they are done Regards Karl

Jeff Both the crankcase and the cam plate are repairable . Cast Iron weldng is difficult but if done by some one who knows what they are doing is very sucessful . Worse damage on my engine has been sucessfully repaired . The secret is preheating prior to and slow cooling post welding . my repairs are invisable The secret to doing the camshaft bearings is to wrap the journals in newspaper prior to set up . When you pour the babbitt the newspaper carbonises and gives you perfect clearances. The other way to do it is to coat the journals with soot from a smokey acetylene flame but the newspaper method is much easier, more accurate and works much better Watch the nuts on the rod bearings -Its mine and others experience that they tend to work loose over time -The reason for the "leg out of bed" - When I shared off magneto drive of my camshaft and stripped it down we found that after 3000 miles post rebuild the rod nuts were finger tight and the camshaft had a significant bend it it -efforts to straighten it resulted in two short camshafts ! A new camshaft was made and Installed -hence the advice above- Karl

Jeff I used Devcon flexible 80 Urethrane Putty. I made up a metal mould on a CNC machine . The I placed it on the the mat marked its edges and then chisiled off the pyramids in that area . Then I coated the area with Devcon FL-20 primer which ensures adhesion of the Putty to the mat . Then I put the mould back in place and treated it to a good spray of canola oil on it and the surrounding mat Then packed the mould with The Urethane putty and Inverted it on the area of the removed pyramids . Urethane oozed out everywhere . It was weighted and left for 24 hours. Thanks to the canola the mould realised easily and the over flow did not stick on the mat where I didn't want it

Nice original car -First original mat I have ever seen . I made mine

David -I'm glad you got it -Karl

There is a Model 20 engine on Ebay currently I would love to buy it but unfortunately the 12000 miles of freight for this heavy item makes it unaffordable for me However someone else on here might be interested

Looks nice - Setting up the magneto is a pain -I'm always amazed at how a small change in the magneto drive as you connect everything up changes the timing so much . A tooth off makes a big difference. They always seem to move for me as I bring the camshaft gear and magneto drive together on the Hup -One day I'll make a jig to hold the drive fixed as i connect -Karl

This afternoon I set up a timing light and looked at the flywheel position when fully advanced which is were I run it all the time -I'm getting about 28 to 30 degrees of advance. It doesn't kick back at this setting. I was taught at a young age how to crank a car by my father -However I see videos all the time of people with their thumb over the crank handle and pushing the crank down as the spin the engine and shudder . As an MD I've seen my fair share of wrist and thumb fractures and they can cause long term problems -

Yes the segments referred to are the brass segments . Hupp has a funny way of setting the fixed timing -If you follow the instructions in the manual you actually find tdc and then continue to rotate the flywheel by about 5/8 of an inch and then you set the magneto up to fire on Number 1 Effectively the ignition is retarded when set up . I have fiddled with variable ignition and set it up as per the instructions but set the variable timing at full retarded at that point .Interestingly it runs best and starts best fully advanced so I just leave it there

Mines pinstriped black and of course non original color. Also has buttoned seats ! All incorrect and how i brought it . I have thought about changing it back to "oriiginal" but really 111 years later who ( other than us-and we're debating it ) would really know or care . Just nice to see them out there being used !

Simon I spent several years before I found a complete unit and I suspect the complete unit is more common than the parts which would have been discarded as useless and/or unidentified over the 107 years since Breeze went out of business . You should try Stan Howe in Montana who is the guru of brass carb restorers -If anyone is able to help you it will he him. I know he has restored several Breeze carbs including mine and Phils who posts on here. Sorry I have mislaid his contact details but he should be easy to find via an internet search -All the best -Karl

Phil -What did you do with the patterns for casting the inlet manifold ? Now that you have sold your car I would be really keen to make sure that we retain/purchase the patterns for others (who like you and I are mad enough to use the original set up) to use if required . As mentioned previously I have patterns for the exhaust manifold and get get casting done relatively cheaply here in New Zealand (the foundry I use casts parts for Peter Jacksons World War One replica fighter planes ) -Karl

I suspect your chances of finding some is pretty low -Just get some made they are not complicated -Karl

My starting procedure is essentially the same . However I never use the priming cups unless it refuses to start. I normally flood the carb with the tickler first until gas flows out the bowl and I open the carb by about 3/4 turn until it runs then close it up . I to have little trouble with the Breeze - Probably because Stan Howe rebuilt and adjusted both Phil and my carbs . Before fitting the correct Breeze i was running a Holley NH on a butchered manifold Designed for the Model T the carb was to big for the little Hup engine and I could never get a good idle but I probably got another 5 mph top speed and quicker pick up -But prefer to be original