DavidAU

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About DavidAU

  • Rank
    Senior Member
  • Birthday 07/18/1944

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  • Gender:
    Not Telling
  • Location:
    Brisbane, Australia
  • Interests:
    Vintage and Brass cars, High performance classic cars

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  1. I would be checking out the LaSalle. Later model, newer technology, a lot stronger chassis, body and engine etc. More comfort. OP means the Original Poster. ie You started the conversation regarding looking for a P2P car.
  2. Have you tried this business in South Australia? He doesn't list them but might be able to help. http://classicandvintagebulbs.com/page11.html
  3. "it doesn't matter what you use if it is light, economical and expendable; and you are versatile and adaptable." I would certainly agree with Ivan on that. I think the weight of a straight eight engine alone would rule it right out. A smaller engine can make just as much or more HP, be more economical and have less moving parts. The suspension on any car doing the P to P will take a terrible pounding so the lighter the engine the better. I also agree with the expendable part. If the car is badly damaged or irrepairable you should be in a position to be able to just pick up your gear and walk away from it and not worry about it again. That might not be the case if it was a 4 1/2 litre Bentley or similar but it should apply to most other vehicles.
  4. You may like to read up on this Australian guy who has been in the Peking to Paris rally twice in his 23/60 Vauxhall called Penny. He has also driven it throughout Europe, South America and Asia on rally's and endurance drives to places most people have never even heard of. It may be worth trying to contact him as I'm sure he could give you a few pointers. The car is usually sent back to Australia after each "adventure" to be checked and repaired if necessary and then loaded into its container and shipped to wherever the next drive will be. I believe he carries very few spares in the car as they add more weight and has managed to carry out any necessary repairs in transit to keep the car going. I imagine $US will repair just about anything. http://www.adventuresofpenny.com/about-penny/ http://www.adventuresofpenny.com/category/peking-to-paris-2016/
  5. I am a bit surprised at the comments that some joints should not be glued to allow them to flex. Can any one advise why you would do this now days. I can understand that in the old days when these cars were built the roads were very rough and that the body/chassis would flex a lot but now days on the good roads we have I would have thought that this was not necessary and in fact the stiffer you could make it the better it would be. I ask this because I am about to rebuild a wooden framed car with a substantial chassis and I intended to overlap, mortise or dowel all the joints, glue and screw them and gusset all the corners etc. to make it as rigid as possible. I notice on the Morgan video above that this is what they do but I also realise that they are total different type of car.
  6. Good story. I loved the hub puller at he used at 3.54 minutes. I'll have to find one of those.
  7. I cannot view your pictures but from your description it sounds like you have what is called a Ross Courtney electrical terminal. They were used on some of the larger English cars and also some US cars mainly on the generator wires. To my knowledge they are no longer available but if someone knows where you can get them, I for one would be most interested
  8. Nice cars. What is the major differences between the New Yorker and the Imperial?
  9. Bhigdog X 2. Anything to do with Clutches and Flywheels you want to use the best. Doesn't matter how old the engine is.
  10. Don't tell them about Glass Beads. That would probably put them into meltdown.
  11. Ask this guy if he can help you. http://www.discbrakemike.com/
  12. If that first letter in the serial number is a D (hard to read) it is a 312 with 4 barrel carb. 9.7 to 1 compression, rated at 245 HP at 4500 RPM
  13. The regulator also works as a water/air separator and you really need one of those on the line to stop water getting into your air tools and damaging them. Also if you do any paint spraying or sandblasting you need dry air.
  14. Walker Radiators have a very good reputation for Ford radiators and may have the correct one for your car. http://www.walkerradiatorworks.com/Radiator-Engine-Cooling-Products/
  15. Did you install the reconditioned engine and the NOS radiator at the same time? If you did so it maybe that all the gunk in the engine water jacket has come loose when the engine was being overhauled and has now been flushed out and is blocking the tubes in the radiator. It is not a common problem but it does happen in the old engines. It is not unusual when blasting the water jacket in an old Ford block to get bits of wire and sand from the original casting process out. It should run cool so I would be checking for obstructions in the water flow, ie radiator, thermostat not opening enough, belt slipping etc.