srr60

Thanks for all the replies. I was able to use standard 3/4 inch heater hose and use a stainless coil at the right angle bend. I found the coil at CarQuest. Worked just fine. Now if I could only get that dang 4GC carb adjusted correctly...

Those trumpet horns really get someone's attention if they're sitting in front of you at a green light talking on their phone... Sounds like a train.

I've got the shop manual. I will try that. I also thought about finding a metal elbow that would fit and I could clamp down. Wish I could find replacement formed hose.

First, I'd like to thank everyone for all the help as I get my Riv up and running well. Seems like I get one thing fixed and then there's another. My molded upper heater hose deteriorated and began to leak. I've looked for a replacement but haven't been able to find a supplier much less a correct part number. The I.D. is 3/4" so I just bought some Goodyear hose and tried to install it. The problem is that it collapses when making close to a 90 deg. curve. Does anyone have a recommendation? Is there a supplier of the OEM molded hose out there? Thank you in advance for any help.

Ed--Thanks very much.

My carb does not have a heat shield. Carb rebuilder tells me that it should have a heat shield. I have no idea. Does anyone know? Thanks

Ed -- Thanks for the tip. Rhett

I am sure that this is simple but I wanted to check. I am replacing some old courtesy light lenses and don't want to accidentally damage anything removing the bezels. Any pointers? Also, I need a few chromed replacement trim screws. Anyone know of a good source? Thank you.

Thanks very much for the advice. It is a separate part. Looks like I may be able to remove the two 3/4 nuts and, with any luck and a bit of room, pull the exhaust pipe back an inch or so to clear the bolts and then remove the valve section to work on it. If I can't free it up then I'll cut it out. Appreciate the help.

Am having my carb rebuilt and discovered a ton of carbon upon removal. Just read the chassis manual and noticed that a sticking manifold control valve could cause it to run rich. Checked my valve and it is stuck in the closed position. Sprayed each side with penetrating oil but no luck. Anyone removed one of these before? I'm thinking if I do I should be able to spray it from the inside and hopefully get it unstuck. Anything I should be aware of before attempting to remove it? Thanks.

I'm doing some general work on my engine. I have the manuals. I am concerned about how much to tighten bolts on the intake manifold (for example). Someone mentioned that I should get Buick service bulletins to go with the manuals that I have. Anyone know? Thanks,

Anyone know of a source for 65 tail light lenses? GM Obselete still carries the 64 but has no listing for a 65.

I found a listing for considerably cheaper door jamb switches on rockauto.com at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...Rc1319329k32532 There are two switches listed, one is a two terminal and the other is a one terminal. I don't know which would work but they are about $30 less than Clark's. Anyone know? AIRTEX Part # 1S4728 2 Terminal Switch Exc. Rear Courtesy Light w/Anti-Theft $2.27 $0.00 $2.27 AIRTEX Part # 1S1016 w/1 Terminal $3.74 $0.00 $3.74

I found a listing for considerably cheaper door jamb switches on rockauto.com at http://www.rockauto.com/catalog/raframec...Rc1319329k32532 There are two switches listed, one is a two terminal and the other is a one terminal. I don't know which would work but they are about $30 less than Clark's. Anyone know? AIRTEX Part # 1S4728 2 Terminal Switch Exc. Rear Courtesy Light w/Anti-Theft $2.27 $0.00 $2.27 AIRTEX Part # 1S1016 w/1 Terminal $3.74 $0.00 $3.74

SsnakeOyl seatbelts in Tyler TX has a wide selection of new belts and can do restoration as well. I got two back belt sets for $40 plus shipping. Ordered on Tuesday and arrived on Wednesday. You should check out the website.