johnemac

One day while driving to work a mouse ran across my thighs. I looked all over for a nest to no avail. Then being the peak of summer I got the "hot death" smell in the car...very bad. I finally found it under the passenger floor mat. Bought a 2000 Eldorado, removed the mouse nest in the blower. Bought a 2013 Ford Escape and removed the mouse nest from the blower. Many ,many, Escape forum entries regarding mouse nests in blowers. The problem is that mice urinate alot and eventually a trail is made to where they nest, then others follow when the prior one is eradicated. One has to wash the tires and engine bay to reduce repeat offenders.

The problem is that being from Kansas City I am only 150 miles closer to it than you.

Maui Blue convertible for $2,500 !! Craigslist Pompano Beach Fl. I hate myself in times like this when I am financially responsible. I already have a Maui Blue convertible but then again I could probably make money flipping this.

Harry Yarnell I see you in the Cadillac forums. Think wrenching on a Reatta is bad, get yourself a Northstar Eldorado and scar up your knuckles. You can put bags of groceries in front of the radiator, but good luck to you behind the radiator. 2000 Eldorado with 13,000 miles, still new car smell...... Of course it was not the O2 sensor, so now I am going to change plugs and put in AC Rapidfires. I know plugs and wires would typically be the first route to take, but I had done that just a couple months ago and added a premium oversize silicon wire set.

The first thing I checked was plug wire placement because I was pulling and replacing wires. I had already sprayed around the manifold prior and found a pinched O ring on the IAC. The IAC was at that time was replaced with a spare. Prior to this I had an intermittent coil that took forever to get figured out and another problem was one injector not working due to a bad ECM which was easy. I have been scanning prior posts and reading about a bad O2 sensor so I will pick one up. Thank You for replies.....

I have a problem where the 90 starts up and drives about 5 miles then it seems the ignition breaks down. I have new plugs and wires, swapped out ICM, Fuel pressure is good. I had recently replaced the harmonic balancer and I believe the crankshaft sensor is responsible for go/no go only, not misfires (correct me if I am wrong). I pull into the garage and I have the miss and the motor surges. I hook up coil fire indicators and I have a good spark. Any ideas?

I had to remove a blower motor in a 2000 El Dorado that the cam cover would not let out. Caddy forums said order Thexton 419X GM engine moving tool, remove the two upper doglegs and attach it. Loosen the front two motor mount bolts about two inches and tighten the Thexton tool until you have the clearance you need. Worked for me, but i realize the engine is rocking forward from the top and may not help, but I throw it out. I found the best deal on the tool on that big auction site under JBtoolsales02 for a shipped price of 39.94. Some people complain about replacing the rear spark plugs ( I have no problem) but this tool would certainly help.

I guess what I was looking for was someone to chime in and say "there are two apps for 90's, one for hardtops and one for convertibles, you need the other". I did not proof read my math and the prior ones were thinner by at least a half to three quarters than the new ones. The only thing I can think of is that the prior owner had installed some odd brand or application that had a longer spring and thinner strut mount .

I am sorry, but I was talking about the front. The 6 and 5/8th inch wide rubber "bumper" that makes up the mount. The ride is affected and one can see the front end of the car higher. I only changed the strut mount because it was squeaky. The application that did not fit was for a 1990 and it was monroe, the next one was a 'no name" ebay set listed for a 1990. Both too thick.

About four years ago I ordered a set of strut mounts for my 1990 convertible. The new strut mount rubber pieces are about an 1"and 3/4 thick. The ones that I removed were about an 1" and 1/2. I was in a pinch and mounted the thicker ones, and needless to say I've been dealing with a horrible ride. I am trying to set things straight but the application I order are the thicker style. I would appreciate any help. UPDATE......I finally figured out the struts were Gabriel and the strut mount for those are about a half inch thinner than Monroes. That small amount makes a BIG difference in the ride and the appearance of the car. I got lucky and Rockauto has a wholesaler discounting them for $9 dollars and change,

Figured it out and did not use the sawzall.

I am in the process of removing the dashboard to repair the broken lever that will give me the AC out of the front vents. The dash is loose and floppy but is hung up to the right of the steering. It seems there is one screw to be removed to free up the dash. I pull the dash out and behind I see a screw out behind a 2 in square connector, which itself is held on by 2 screws. I'm sorry but I only have an 89 FSM and I do not see anything close. At the minimum it looks like a knuckle busting, laying upside down, vertigo inducing task. Any tips would be highly appreciated.

I have an engine miss and have traced it to the right rear injector that a noid light will not respond to. The noid light works on all other cylinders. In tracing the issue I honed in on that cylinder because it's spark plug insulator was pure white. Is this either an open wire to the ECM; or the ECM itself, or possibly something else? Thank You for any tips or comments

You make me sound like a complete moron... First, the nail acts like a pin, many types of drive units use a pin in their assembly. This nail, as used, will never, ever shear. The J. B. Weld fills in the "wallows" and thus aligns the crank on the motor. Nothing is going to explode. So far I have 7 years on one and 5 years on another. Besides, if I bought an aftermarket crank someone will come out of the woodwork and chastise me for having a non stock part on my car.

If it is just the soft arm rounded out I take a small drill bit and drill thru the arm, thru the mount, and out the other side of the arm. I put the arm on the mount with a dab of J B weld to fill the rounded area, put a small nail thru the drilled hole and never deal with that problem again. 5 minute fix.

I wanted to improve my night vision so I decided to do a headlamp conversion so I could try different halogen bulbs. Two headlamps available are from Pilot and Hella- I got the Pilot and am not impressed with the plastic lense. Browsing about the internet I came upon Phillips new technology halogen bulbs, one Crystal Vision, and the other Extreme Vision. Both were products of the year in various european venues. Phillips products are available at Napa and K-Mart. K-Mart was closest and they only had the Crystal bulbs so that is what I got for $25 a pair. I had Silverstars and when they were first put in they looked more white then yellow, now they look yellow vs the white Crystal Vision. It also makes it look like I have additional fog lights- I do not know if that is the new headlamp or the bulb. When one drives you will see the fog light effect then a blob of light further on. Highbeams are impressive. So far so good. On the picture the new stuff puts out the spray of white light while the Silverstars is just pretty much straight ahead. Also notice at the barn door that the beam is focused without any obnoxious glare.:mad: <fieldset class="postcontent"><legend> Attached Thumbnails</legend> </fieldset> The above is an old post; still have the Phillips bulbs. Questioned the plastic of the Pilot headlamp housing but they look as good as new. If anyone wants a simple, cheap, and good HID plug and play setup I would highly recommend the Kensun brand. Typically under $50.00 for all sizes and colors on that longest river in South America website. I installed a set on my wife's PT cruiser and the most time spent was zip tying the ballast to the frame, truly plug and play.

Horrible just got worse (new mechanic). I was at my wits end so I took the car in to a new mechanic, I had moved and left my trustworthy mechanic. Anyway I call about the car (90) and the guy sez I do not have a 3.8 engine, probably a 3.3....not! and that the delco ignition should be the magnavox, and he knows as a fact that the intake manifold is incorrect for a 3.8. Ouch!!I might have to yank the car away Monday.

Well I went and got an O2 sensor and a PVC valve and a spark tester from Harbor Freight and the outcome is that I do not have spark from the topmost 6/3 coil. I swapped it with a junkyard spare to no avail. I should have swapped a known good one but I ran out of time. I won't be able to get back to it til Thurs but at least the issue is narrowed down.

Well the O2 is a normal maint item so a new one will go in tomorrow. The ecm failed on an 89 I had and gave similar issues. It acts like wires are crossed but I went over the set up several times. There is a loud vacuum like noise by the vacuum reservoir but I check the tubing in the whole area around it and not finding anything. When you guys talk about an intake issue are you talking about a bad intake gasket or something else?

Posted a week ago with problem thinking it was a bad cat, replaced cat to no effect. Car had ran great but while driving quit and would not start. Couple hours later it started up normally. Figured I would replace the crank position sensor. After replacement I got the bad idle. Cleaned the idle control and maf to no effect. Replaced idle control with spare, replaced icm with spare. Swapped coils one at a time. Took icm to be tested which it was good. Fuel pump pressure 42. Replaced plugs and wires. No codes. Starts right up but sounds like it is on only four cylinders. Tried to Ohm the coils but am getting nothing with my meter even replacing its batteries. This is an AC coil, I tried measuring a Magnavox and still could not get Ohms. Reading all he threads in search I came across one where the individual replaced the crank sensor and ended up with a bad idle but the thread ended with no results..............................90 convertible

What is the official name of the blue interior in a 90 Maui blue exterior? I need to freshen things up with some SEM paint. Thank You.

DAVES89 appears to be the winner suggesting a bad catalytic converter. It makes sense that if I drive it the back pressure will shut it down. I also took a heat gun and found all the temp welled up before the cat and almost none after. I used an Advance auto $50.00 dollars off a $125.00 code and ordered a Magnaflow direct bolt on cat with mounting bolts/springs and a gasket for $88.00 and free shipping. Rock Auto has great prices but the shipping negates the deal.

No codes set, had cleaned the MAF. It is a newer fuel pump but I need to find my pressure gauge and check that. What comes to mind is if I have the harmonic balancer keyed properly. The catalytic converter was smoking off when it was first heated up. I cannot get to it for the next two days but I want to thank everyone one for their input.

Driving car home from a paint job and it quits on my road home, will not start. A couple hours later it started like all was ok. Replaced the crank sensor, starts but higher 1,000 rpm and rough idle. Replace ICM, and idle control, no change. Drive it and is hard to reach 25mph and everything degrades as the engine warms up until the car quits..........Car was running hot but ok when it initially quit.

Visited the Springfield MO Pick N Pull to see a fresh 90 silver coupe. I pulled the taillight, right headlamp motor, side moldings, floor mats, a coil, and center armrest for $100.00. The fog lamps, wheels, and catalytic converter seemed to be the only other things missing. The interior switches are all nice and so is the radio. There is a picture on their website.