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  1. 11 likes
    I picked up my new 1960 Buick Electra today. They Dynaflow is a curiously cool transmission. Just keeps pulling. The previous owner kept records and receipts. Had the Dynaflow serviced quite a bit. I'm guessing this is what keeps it working as design.
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    I drove about 100 miles west today to Trenton Browne's wonderful salvage yard in the tiny town of Sunset, Texas. He has a lot of Post-War Buicks available as complete cars or for parts. Here are a few I photographed today. The '50 Special is a stick shift car, available as a complete car, but due to lack of interest, he is about to begin parting it out. The '62 Special is a factory A/C car. The '49 Super is now minus its bumpers and RF fender, as those were what I needed. It does not have an engine and the grille is damaged, but it still has some usable parts. This is the salvage yard that I did an article on in the Buick Bugle about a year ago. He has lots of late 1960s full-size Buicks and lots of early 1950s Buicks. For those who want to pay a visit, it is halfway between Fort Worth and Wichita Falls, Texas on U.S. Hwy. 287. There are about 1000 cars at this place, including some very rare ones--Hudsons, Kaisers, Nashes, Studebakers, etc. Well worth the trip! Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
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    Thanks to Lamar Johnson (Earl) I am now the proud owner of another Buick. It's also a '40 and more road ready than my 76C. I do get the diversity thing as I have two vintage/special interest Fords as well. This one is a 4 door Super and has unique options like dust, cobwebs a mud dobber nest attached to the seat and the distinctive smell of "old car". It is not currently running but should be driveable after a fuel and brake system overhaul. Check this out (below)! It spent the last 25 or so years locked away in a warehouse after the PO left us for his eternal journey. His family didn't do anything with it for the lack of interest. It was actually a part of a horde of cars, others of which have Lamar licking his chops and crowding his barn. That's Lamars new slantback '38 in the background.
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    I'm a new member and this thread caught my eye. This picture was among my mother's old photos. I have no idea who they are. Sorry about the creases.
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    Expect a call from PETA. Either that or some guys in white suits..................Bob
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    Guys, I have been an Insurance Agent owning my own agency for over 36 years. I will say that it is not best to go with a very large, national company, any of them, for your Antique & Classic (A&C) auto insurance, the one that also writes Kia's on a daily basis and tries to convince you they know the A&C market too. They, guaranteed, do NOT have the proper contract to properly protect you A&C auto. While their agent may say they do, you will never know until you have a claim and the adjuster starts talking of depreciation and actual cash values (ACV). My agency is in the top 10 nationally of a very large A&C carrier. We also represent other carriers in the A&C business but the big one, the one you think of most often, the one that has their own valuation tools online, is absolutely the very best in this coverage arena. They really are that good. And, while not the least expensive, they do have the absolute best coverage available anywhere and do know their market to the extreme. They also reinvest into the hobby which is important in my view. To put it another way, it's who I have my own personal A&C policy with and I can choose ANY company for such. That is the "insiders" look into A&C insurance carriers. Dan, I have no doubts of your story. Some people tend to "exaggerate" their problems and that was what I was alluding to, not your reporting of what the gentleman had to say. You are correct, everyone really needs to review their coverages with their agent. Doing so AFTER a claim is not the time to review your coverages. Ben, I urge you to seek out proper A&C coverage rather than your current coverage. I have read that companies policies. You need to contact one of the specialty carriers promptly. I am more than glad to answer questions on this subject and I am not soliciting to write anyone's A&C coverages. In fact, I probably couldn't as I am only licensed in the State of Ohio.
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    I started checking wheel cylinders and the front end this morning. All wheel cylinders look new. I pulled the right front steering knuckle and king pin out. I have never seen this much crud build up. The original owner must have greased it regularly and lived on a gravel road. Most of it I had to chisel off with a screwdriver and hammer. The funny thing is the amount on the steering arm. I can't believe it could hang on that long!
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    The wipers on my '60 Electra have made two swipes across the windshield since 2003. That was when I took it all apart and "fixed" them. RainEx has been fine. Don't just spray it on. Rub it in with a soft cloth. My Wife can't drive with it either. She looks at the drops. I keep telling her a persons eyes can focus like the f setting on a camera. Focus ahead of the car beyond the windshield and it will be out of your depth of field. Honestly, the drops just disappear. I'm driving along in traffic at 60 MPH in the rain and she says "I don't know how you see, I can't." I tell her I don't look at the drops or the windshield. She says "They are right in front of you. How can you not SEE it?" "I don't see it because I am not looking at it." "You have to be!" " I'm not" "Well I see it" "You should, you aren't driving?" "Well, you are driving and you don't see the windshield?" " Who's on first?" Bernie
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    Okay, how about the better days. Gotta keep this on topic
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    Pilgrim, This is just from my observation. I have no facts to back up the following: In my opinion most car guys, in America, want what they had in High School. A lot of those cars were Chevies and Fords. So a lot of cars resurrected now are Chevies and Fords. But that's not to say the Chevies and Fords were better because there are more of them now. But they were not really bad to begin with. If anything they were just , a little less sexy from the manufacturer. Many of these cars which have not been modified began life as standard cars, with either 6 cylinder or small V8's. The idea of a low powered engine in a classic car is something not so much appreciated. Todays cars are pushing 3 and 4 times as much power as these older cars. And todays cars are generally considered more "reliable" . So a number of people believe that it's important to update the vehicle. And in terms of updating the classic vehicle, there are very few alternatives for a "NEW" engine. Mostly there are Chevy 350 motors which can be bought new, so, in the name of upgraded power, and reliability, many cars which are now hotrods or modifieds, are powered by Chevy motors. For some cars it may make sense. But I maintain that my 61 year old Buick has no further need to prove it's reliability, nor it's power quotient. One can only drive so fast, or hard, on todays roads. And I like to enjoy my ride. I'd rather spend twenty minutes driving 5- 10 miles than 18 seconds, or less, driving a 1/4 mile. And I acknowledge that to each person, his own desires. I am sure there are many who would rather do that 1/4 mile in 14 seconds or less.
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    Riv: I get it. I wanted to leave the dust on the car as long as possible. I did wash the car tonight and that was a lot of time earned dust flowing down the drive. The car interior needs to be cleaned out so that I can reassemble parts that were removed. The interior door panels were removed and placed in the rear seat and the drivers window, vent window and vent deflector have been removed from the drivers door and are not with the car. There is also a piece of trim around the exterior of the drivers window that hasn't been found. Once cleaned, it will be easier to crawl around it to access parts that need attention. Plus it is pretty gross sitting in the car right now with all the dust.
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    I'll just stick with my Spam thank you. Next time you visit you're welcome to gather all the spiders from my barn, take them home and make a salad maybe.
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    Garage Project 2016 (I just couldn’t help not adding a little “IN A GADDA DA VIDA” back ground music!)
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    You are one sick, dude. Probably literally.
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    That metallic taste is probably the poison sack. Next thing you know you'll be buying "other" cars!
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    Send her to my house. I'll comfort her!
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    Well, I think I found the problem..... I was going to install the electric fuel pump, when I decided to tray something else(I really wanted to find what was going on!!)...so I pulled the gas tank down (I ordered a new sending unit) when I empty the tank, nothing estranged, but when I removed the old sending unit....oh boy!!!! big surprise.....something was at the bottom...so I shaked the tank up and then I discovered the source of my problem.....some rat ( or mouse) built a nest in my tank!!! Using the material from the seats Remember....this was a brand new tank...it set in my garage for sometime ( maybe a couple of years) but it was in a box...inside a plastic bag....anyway, the "critter " found the way....it was my fault that I didn't check it out...I assume that " new tank...will be clean" big mistake!!! With the tank down, I cleaned it very well....used a hose and a lot of water .....dry it out with a garden blower and I used a bottle of alcohol.I'm waiting for the ordered new ending unit....I can wait to reinstall the tank and drive the car....
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    Your top hydraulic system is 53 years old. Seals are hardened, hoses likely getting age cracks, DOT 3 fluid has been gathering moisture and the reservoir is no doubt full of gunk. Twer it me I would pull the cylinders and look closely for leakage and rust on the cylinder rods. If any is found I'd s**t can them. The hoses I would replace. Period. The pump I would pull and remove/clean the reservoir can. If reusing the cylinders I would purge them with alcohol. Also purge the pump. Then I would refill with ATF and sleep well knowing I wasn't going to blow a hose or seal and spray DOT 3 paint remover. But that's just me.................Bob
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    Remove any ridge at the top; hone only to remove the glaze; use hone grit appropriate for the type of replacement rings; put pistons back into the cylinders they came out of. The ring grooves in the pistons will need to be cleaned; use premium name brand moly rings (will conform to and tolerate any cylinder irregularities).
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    I'm not a big fan of a full blown kit but here you go. Before buying a kit you need to access the needs of your rebuild and that can't happen until its torn down and inspected, then decision made which way and how far you want to go. then if the kits contents matches up with your needs then its OK. http://www.ebay.com/itm/Buick-364-Master-engine-kit-1957-58-cam-pistons-gaskets-bearings-rings-/190801748934?vxp=mtr&hash=item2c6caba3c6
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    Saw this 1955 Chevy Nomad at the local diner today and thought I would share it. It was pretty clean....
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    I had good weather for work this weekend, but I needed to get my head right on the task. Pushing forward I have to apply 50% stop-and-think time, another 25% demolition/removal and the balance in making the new parts. I tackled the right rocker panel. It became evident that the car was hit at about the rear of the door a long, long time ago. That was evidenced by a replacement rocker panel long ago enough that the front had to have minor rust repair some years later, but many years prior to my owning the car. The floor pan was not wrinkled so the hit must have been somewhat minor. The bottom of the rocker was sculpted with filler to a depth of about 3/8 of an inch. I cut midway along the outside edge where the rocker trim is located (above photo), then cut back to the inner rocker. The next photo is the bottom of the rocker where the filler had been squeezed into the rust holes. The front and rear of the inner rocker has rust through and had never been repaired. I couldn't find any information for the connection between the rocker and the upright post that extends down from the cowl (below). It would seem to be a good location to stiffen the cowl by tying the rocker to the cowl. Once I cut away the front 8-inches of the inner rocker you can see a brace that ties the floor (20ga) to the rocker (18 ga.). I fashioned a new piece for the inner rocker using hand tool (below). New inner rocker section fully welded in place. I cut back the floor since it was thin with rust as well. Inner rocker cut back about 8-inches. The outer rocker repair patch was fashioned using a 2-inch diameter bar stock hammered on the sand bag. This reverse curve flairs towards the front of the car and curves inward. The bottom and top 90 degree angle on the curved panel was formed with the curved panel. Then a second 90 degree shape was formed and welded into place. The top 90 degree shape forms the surface for the door seal. This effort took all weekend. As I said above, at least half of my time was spent contemplating the next cut or how to form the patch panel. A fair amount of time was spent trying to justify not making cuts and leaving the filler. Nah! the filler has to go. Next weekend I hope to have the bottom replacement patch installed and the rear inner rocker patched.
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    I have grown up with a lot of those mid-70's guys and, although I am not unsympathetic to the loss, those guys do tend to spread the BS pretty thick. And a few of them weasel and cheat at a lot of things they do, particularly if it involves any sort of regulation. I see the car has a for sale sign on it. Any idea of the price? I wouldn't say that was a terribly difficult repair and, surely, not a "T-bone" as I would describe one. I feel really bad for Barry Wolk and don't see him on the forum any more, that was a bad one. This '40 Ford guy, dragging the car to a show, the for sale sign, the $150 story; nah, I know too many old shysters to buy into that one too quick. There's a whole other story. Bernie
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    See Dear, this why I have a hard time getting rid of seemingly unimportant Buick parts! Call Ron @ 605-237-4878. B4 he sends the 56 Dr sedan to the crusher, hurry if you want those he doesn't hesitate long! Forgot to mention. Very nice person and reasonable on price. Highly recommended by me!
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    Greetings folks! After a winter slumber, finally got back on the 56 dyna in 55 Century. Had the drive shaft sorted B4 winter stopped me, but needed to reconfigure trans mount for the 1" move of the trans toward the rear becuz of the longer length of the 56 trans. Tried turning the cross member end for end 180 degrees. No dice! With the cross member having a 3/4"offset curve it amounted to a 1-1/2" move, too far and I also would have to drill three holes in the blank vertical facing rearward now for the thrust part of the mount to bolt to. Frustrated, I picked up the standard trans crossmember I was scavenging bolts from and vi-OLEE, THE CENTER LINE UP RIGHT UNDER THE HOLES FOR THE TRANS MOUNT CUSHION! Lined them both up and marked hole spacing and the photos hopefully show the rest! YAY! Bolting in car next with newfound confidence that this thing will drive soon!
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    Mom and Dad's 2nd car they bought it in 1957 for $88 and sold it for $75 in 1971! I only drove it up and down in the yard!
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    Took "Almendron" to a car show in Palmetto Bay, FL from Miami about 20 minutes ride. Left from wheel grease cap came loose inside the hub cap on the last turn and boy what a rattle. Other than that.... a magic carpet ride. Have a 1 minute video but can't upload
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    Just wrapped up my second day at Myrtle Beach's huge Run to the Sun car show and I saw absulutley NO 50's Buicks. Not a single one. Granted there are 3100 cars here and I may have missed them, but I walked for two days and only saw a few pre-war and a few 60's wildcats. Having a 56 myself, I really had my eyes open hoping to see some. There was definitely no shortage of 55/56/57 Belairs!
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    The REAL challenge was likely those greasy fries......................Bob.
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    No way. I love a good challenge, but thank God there are some I just have no desire to endure, such as willfully holding back vomit.
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    Wednesday, March 22: Today I mounted the engine back into the frame! Started by pushing the chassis outside, hoisting the engine up with the crane, and then pushing the chassis under the motor. After positioning and slowly lowering the engine, everything lined up beautifully! All my motor mounts were re-vulcanized, and I replaced the three shims that came out of the right rear motor mount. Went on to install the freeze plugs Honed and rebuilt the master cylinder Installed master cylinder and pedals Moved to the rear and removed the rear leaf springs. That was a tough job! Broke one shackle bolt in the process. Everything is just rusted together. ENGINE INSTALL: Just some photos of the engine install. Check out the last photo of the front right motor mount. Huge change over the last two months! (Next post for the rear springs)
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    I'm betting that if your car could talk, when you take it for a drive, it says the same about you!
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    Actually, that's the first riding lawn mower!
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    Harbor Freight...buy 2 of each.
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    This color is wild in the sun, and it is also a bit tricky to photograph, as it has a very high contrast from the bright spots to the shadows, which give it a very dynamic appearance. There is a lot going on in the Emberglo up-close!
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    Quite a few BCA members were in attendance today at the annual Pre-War Swap Meet in Chickasha, Oklahoma, including BCA Board member Terry Weigand and Barbara, Larry Schramm and Joyce all the way from Michigan, Ben Bruce, Bill Bicknell, Ben and Inez Garland from New Mexico, and several others. The weather was absolutely perfect. Here is the annual group photo of those who assembled at Steve Hammett's table inside the north building. See anyone you know? I found quite a few Buick parts, several bargains, and there was a beautifully restored 1913 model 31 parked outside in the show car area. I'm not sure if it was for sale or not, but it is a beauty. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
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    Restored the starter. Disassembled it last night, wire wheeled the parts I could, scrubbed the rest in paint thinner and cleaned with sandpaper, then a final wash with acetone. Sprayed the parts and let everything dry overnight. After work today I re-assembled everything and I am very happy results. Then I pushed the chassis outside and using four gallons of paint thinner, I washed the frame down, scrubbed it with a wire grill brush, then a final wash with towels and acetone. Tomorrow I start painting the frame, restore the master cylinder and start getting the new brake lines installed. The new brake lines were delivered today. I think most of the "pre-bent" lines should work, but the "driveshaft" line is never going to fit so I may have to use my original brake line there. I'll let you know how I make out. Some starter before and after photos:
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    Financially, the newer cars are kind of interesting. I paid $500 for this one and have just under $10,000 into it. I paid $9,000 for this one and put a set of tires on for $1,000. Shooda bought the tank. Bernie