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Showing most liked content since 02/16/2018 in all areas

  1. 11 points
    We had a local AACA Tour today. I put a little bit over 150 miles on my 1937 Buick Century. We had a good turnout with 9 antique cars plus quite a group of folks driving modern cars. It was a good day with great food and good friends. After a great Barbecue lunch, the group stopped at the Country Barn Bakery and bought a lot of great stuff that none of use really need but always enjoy. Of the 9 antiques, 2 were Buicks, a 1935 40 Series and my 1937 Model 61. Some of our members enjoyed ice cream and Kettle Corn from their "modern" Kettle Corn setup. On the way home, I stopped at an old gas station building and took a few photos of my car.
  2. 11 points
    Went for a cruise today.... Met a 59 rambler at the gas station and a 6x galaxie 500 at an intersection. 75 degree weather brings them all out!
  3. 9 points
    Time to get some signs or something up that will keep all the neighbors from asking when is the saloon going to be finished. After considering a large 20's 30's script lettered BUICK painted sign and getting some estimates from some sign painters I decided on another route and am glad I did. I ordered some large MDF (medium density fiber) letters from Woodland Manufacturing. Took quite a bit of sanding and ended up laying on 4 coats of paint (and sanding between each coat) on the front and 3 on the back. Each coat had to completely dry for several days in the sun before sanding and applying the next coat, so it too a couple of weeks total. I drilled the mounting holes before painting so the MDF would be completely sealed off from water. B-U-I-C-K Always under my feet... and Kowpi too... The letter inspector keeping me straight Glued and screwed
  4. 9 points
    Following the rain this morning, I went out to the Farmers Branch Historical Park this afternoon and took a couple of photos in the sunshine. May be a couple of days till the Buick can go out to play again, since rain is in the forecast for several days. AACA meeting tomorrow, so maybe if the weather man is wrong, the Buick can get out sooner.
  5. 7 points
  6. 7 points
    No pictures this time, but I just got back from my 3-day weekend at home. Valentine's was last week as we all know, and I had to make up some lost time with the GF and since she offered to pay for gas, I couldn't refuse. The planets must have aligned for me, because Snoqualmie Pass was clear on the way there and on the way back. Despite an uneventful weekend with raised blood pressure, I was saddened to find that one of my W2s had not come in the mail - not that that was the real reason for going home or anything... In any case, Interstate 90 and Highway 26 were absolutely clear. It wasn't about until I hit Washtucna that the tailpipes started smoking like a chimney. At first I thought I was in for some serious trouble, but then I noticed the car in front of me was doing the same. Turns out as the sun went down, the temps dropped into the teens and before I hit Colfax, it was 2 degrees. And boy those guys in Colfax must be sadists, because through town it was compact snow and ice. The Dynaflow is one hell of a transmission, too. Never once touched the brakes. Dropped in Low and let the engine do the work for me. This Buick is probably the best car I've ever driven in the snow, just because the variable torque characteristic of the transmission just has a really low drive range until 40 MPH. It probably also helps that the only tires in the right size I could get over the counter were A/T Mud + Snow tires. And of course, as my dad told me, the snow looks best in the mountains - I'm definitely not looking for trouble here and prefer not to drive in the snow, but when I do, I seem to run circles around modern cars on campus here. Is it because they're kids fresh out of high school? Who knows, just glad to finally be off the road. And despite losing a quart of oil every 150 miles, the car seems to be chugging along flawlessly. While at home, I hit my little bird behind the throttle with some more WD-40 White Lithium, as well as the door jams and hood hinges, I think my squeaks will be good for a while. I might be able to actually reach Colorado this year if I don't run into internship issues.
  7. 6 points
    Wednesday February 21, 2018: Driver's Door Update.... Paint shop and my prep work at home getting ready for the install. I stopped by Bob's shop this morning to get some updated photos. While I was there, Bob and I turned the door over so he can start painting the innards. I took the opportunity to remove the lock handle mechanism, the window riser mechanism and the door wedge so I can start getting myself prepped and ready for the install once its released from paint. This series of photos covers the last few days, so you'll see photos with a little snow still on the ground from Sunday, but the story doesn't change! Here we go... The driver's door with the fiberglass cured and roughed out. As rough as it looks, it actually feels pretty smooth to the touch. He then sanded out the entire door, removing all the old bondo. The metal is in really nice shape, kind of the same story we've encountered throughout the build. By mixing these three in the correct proportions, the filler is ready to be applied. Here you can see the filler applied. It cures pretty fast. Bob starts sanding out the ridges in every direction to get a smooth finish. He starts with a 36 grit, then progresses up to a 180(?) It's been such a great experience to watch him work. Here he is rolling the pad around the bottom to correctly restore the original contours. This is how I left the shop Tuesday morning. This morning, the sanding was all done up the entire door skin and the self-etching primer was applied. Bob and I flipped the door over so he can start working on the inside. While it was turned over, I removed the door opening handle mechanism.... The window regulator screws The two other screws that retain the channel above the arm rest and dropped the entire window riser mechanism out. And finally, removed the door wedge. Back home, here was today's haul! Again, the rust is all over everything. I dealt with the door wedge first. I started by soaking it in lacquer thinner to release the paint. Then out to the buffing wheel, using tripoli and then jewelers rouge to give it a nice shine. And just like that, the door wedge and it's mounting screws were done. For the rest of the stuff, Mother nature gifted us with a 79 degree day today so I took my trusty wire wheel out of the shed and got to work. It took a while to get all the rust and crud off these parts. Then a thorough scrubbing in a pan of acetone to remove the residual film from the wheel and to be certain all the sand from the blasting was completely removed from the moving parts. My paint booth is back in operation. First a self-etch primer, then SEM "Trim Black" as the final coat. I let everything hang out in the sunshine, heat and wind and it dried very quickly today. If you've never tried the SEM products, and especially this "Trim Black", try it. It really is great stuff and the finish is beautiful. Going back a couple of days, but relevant. Here's the driver's door window. I marked the channel position with tape so I can transfer the position to the new glass. But after installing the passenger side, I'm going to follow the exact same protocol. Keep it loose and let it "find itself" before making a permanent seal. Once marked, knock the channel off the bottom of the glass. I guess this is the glass setting material that was used originally? With the channel chucked in the vise, I used a screwdriver to release the material from the sides. It was stuck on there pretty good. A little scraping along the bottom and it peeled out in one piece. It looks and feels like some sort of canvas material. The channel was quite rusty throughout the inside. I wrapped a paint stirring stick with sandpaper and sanded it all out nice and clean. Then I used a 1/4" thick ruler (same thickness as my glass) and by using the vise, I was able to "pinch" the top in so the glass will set nice and secure. So now when I use the Window Weld, It won't be such a runny mess. Once cleaned and scrubbed, it also got the self-etch prime coat and the trim black final coat. Now the parts are laid out on the workbench, all ready for the door to start the install. Just another view of the finish. I have all my stuff organized and ready to go! Have a great night out there! Gary
  8. 6 points
    Thursday February 15, 2018: Vent Window Restoration and Finalize Installation of Passenger Door Glass / Related In this post, I finished installing "for keeps" the vent window, the side window, the division channel, the lower door run channel and finally the window felt seal. I am very happy that I pre-installed everything and did a "dry run" to be sure all the rubber gaskets lined up, the channels were properly aligned... Made tonight go a lot easier. January 2017: This is the drivers door, but the vent window restoration process was the same on both sides. Here I am removing the four upper screws that hold the vent window frame to the door frame. There are three upper screws. Then remove the four machine screws and the unit comes right out. Over on the bench, a 1/2" ratchet gets the bolt out to free the window from the frame. Once that is removed, the glass, chrome frame and the rubber will come out. I had to flex the frame a little to help it come out. Here's all the stuff coming out. And these went out to Paul's Chrome Plating to get rechromed. The hash marks are my identifying marks for reinstallation. I sanded out the "door frame" of the vent window. Then cleaned the regulator with Brake Kleen, compressed air and acetone. Cleaned up and ready for paint Applied SEM brand self etching primer Then two coats of Rusteoleum Gloss Black Hang them up to dry. New glass getting cleaned up before installation The chrome came out beautiful. I used this 3M product called "Window-Weld" to secure the glass in the frame. (same on the other windows) Test fit the glass to be sure it all fits nicely in the frame before pumping the window weld in the frame. Use a caulk gun, express the material into the frame and seat the window fully. I allowed it to rest on the glass edge overnight to align the glass with the ends of the chrome. Once set, simply run a new blade around the perimeter. The excess peels right out and leaves a real nice finished edge. Ready for its rubber gasket and installation. Wrap the rubber over the frame, insert the stem into the mechanism, install the 1/2" bolt and the entire vent window is ready to be installed. This is where I left off last night with the passenger window. The Window Weld dried overnight and was ready to go when I got home from work tonight. Same routine. Cut with a new blade along the carrier and peel off the excess. It leaves a nice clean line. I lightly installed the four lower machine screws to hold the unit in place. Then I installed the upper screws along the top frame to be sure the frame was straight to the window opening. You have to watch up top where the screws are that hold the rain deflector. My needed a little "persuasion" to get that just right. Then finish tightening up the four lower machine screws to secure the unit. Vent window in. Here I cranked out the vent window out, moved the crank handle from the vent window to the side window and lowered the window mechanism to the bottom of the door. Dropped the window in and sat it over the mechanism. Lined up the screw holes and installed it. Next the vent window separator, being sure not to squash the rubber to the vent window and raising and lowering the glass to be sure the channels lined up. So the passenger's door is done. Looks nice with all the glass back in! Have a great night Gary
  9. 6 points
    Curiously, after seeing Centurion's resurrected post on the Lido, just last week I picked up this obscure book published in Switzerland, the International Automobile Parade, Volume II from 1958. On a page devoted to Pinin Farina of Turin, the Buick Lido and a similar Alfa Romeo were pictured. Note the 15-inch difference in wheelbases between the two.
  10. 5 points
    Picked up my freshly redone steering wheel today! Wow! I really like the way this turned out!
  11. 5 points
  12. 5 points
    It's interesting that the myth of freeze plugs is to prevent damage from freezing. In reality they are core plugs whose purpose was to have an opening for the removal of the sand core used in the initial casting of the part. As mentioned, their only failure is corrosion. Over time , galvanic activity from coolant turbulence and oxidation will take their toll. Regular antifreeze change is the only good deterent. In time even the best of care will not prevent the need for replacement of the core plugs. Bob Engle
  13. 5 points
    I have been a bit behind with another medical issue. But, if many may recall, the Covered Bridge Tour in Allentown was a "free form" driving tour, totally on your own, so I would suggest that you just provide maps and point out attractions, and drive on their ow, any day they want. I would hate to see trying to keep 30+ cars together on a group drive. Just my opinion. John
  14. 5 points
    Hi Tom! Yes.. P-51 Mustang. My boys fly them. As far as the use of the car. I'm mostly a "Sunday Driver". We have a lot of backroads throughout Monmouth County that are 35 mph roads and being I'm usually the first one up, John and I will go for a nice 25-mile run early in the morning throughout the back roads and finish up at the beach. I try to attend a few car shows every year, but with a busy family it's not always practical for me to tie up an entire day. The bagel and coffee runs on the weekends always spark great conversations in the parking lots. I use my cars mostly just for enjoyment. I don't usually enter shows for judging, but I think I would like to explore the steps necessary to take the car to Hershey. I don't know how that all works to get a Junior / Senior. I've never attended a multi-day tour. Sounds like fun though. My buddy John has been all over the country in his Model "A" participating in over 25 Glidden Tours. I guess for me, it's the drive. I love the sound of the old engines, the transmissions winding up, the smell of the exhaust, the all-around experience of the machine. Truly sets your mind straight and makes me happy. I can't wait to get her on the road. Gary
  15. 5 points
    Friday February 16, 2018: Update at the Paint Shop - Driver's Door Progress A quick recap of the last few days... This is how we left off. The rotted metal parts were removed. Using a small wire wheel on the pneumatic motor, Bob was able to remove most of the rust inside the patch area. He treated it with a heavy coat of yellow self-etching primer. At the bench, the donor metal is measured and cut. Then it is given its contours. The patch panels are welded into position. A bead of weld is placed over the entire perimeter of the patch panel. Then the welds will be ground down smooth. To address any small pinholes left from the welding, Bob mixes up this Tiger Hair Fiberglass with the blue cream activator. This stuff is pretty sticky and the fibers run in all directions. This close-up shows the fibers. The entire lower door panel was coated with the fiberglass. It needs to fully cure all weekend so grinding can begin Monday morning. Once it is ground to proper contour, then the skim coat filler will be applied and the body work can progress as usual. With the fiberglass needing time to cure, the upper door panels started getting sanded out. This is how I left the shop today at 2:00. One more door to go!!!! (..and an upholstery kit) I can see the finish line now! I'm so very excited to get behind that big beautiful wheel and stretch her legs. Hope you all have a great weekend! Gary
  16. 5 points
    How about a vinyl wrap? Not very expensive, looks the same, and you can take it off if you (or the next owner) don't like it. It's also more durable than paint and doesn't chip as easily, which is good for hoods. There should be a place in your area that can do a wrap and basic satin black on a flat hood should be a piece of cake for them.
  17. 4 points
    Clean Sweep Wiper Services in Terrebonne, OR. Its ran by Kent Jaquith. 541 923 4319. My wiper system has been flawless. I replaced it with an electronic kit and went back to it, the performance of a good working vacuum motor is unmatched. I've been driving up and down the mountain passes lately with it raining and snowing and they work just as good as a modern wiper system except in really heavy down pour. After I had my fuel pump replaced with a good one that didn't suck oil, the lowest the vacuum drops is to 10" which is kind of noticeable when accelerating and going up hill, but it hasn't hindered me from passing a semi at 75-80 mph on I90 in the rain. The old paddle in the motor is made of leather and it wears out. The oil is meant to rejuvenate it but it can be difficult if the leather has pitted the casting. The place out East, Wiperman I believe, just replaces the unit with a good NOS or a fresh gasket kit. Kent goes the full extra mile and replaces the leather with a modern rubber and fixes casting pits so the motor you get back is the motor you sent in, pre-lubed and better than NOS. The vacuum system is very unforgiving but once you figure it out, it works flawlessly. Every part has to work correctly, though. You're best investing in a vacuum gauge so you can confirm manifold vacuum is the factory 15-16", then go down the line. On my system, the vacuum with accessories drops about 1" due to losses in the switches and components. Anything more than that and you gotta probe the system by blocking off and isolating the different components. Best of luck. Speaking from experience, those who advertise that their electric system is engineered for your car need to go back and rework their designs.
  18. 4 points
    No reason it should leak if rebuilt with new seals, gaskets and tolerances. I have 3 that don't leak.
  19. 4 points
  20. 4 points
    During Lunch my boy came home too and saw what I had been up too. I was good there (for a change) and went back out to lower the front of the car. The rain started again but at least came down straight. Once the stands were out of the way I started looking for stuff under the back end as that long overhang of hers was actually raised quiet a bit with the rear stands in place making it easier. I had moved some plywood and panelling along the wall onto the side of the car looking for that first transmission so squeezed in there to move it back off the car. Before I moved them though I noticed the rad cradle and the inner fender / battery side and took it out as they would need to be moved anyway. Squeezing between the car with them and NOT scratching the paint is exactly why I need to pull the whole car out plus to be able to get at that broken rack you see. Some good stainless trim is still in there and don't need it bent. Guess I had sanded the rad cradle and put primer on it but if you look closely there is rust out on the right hand side that I didn't have fixed. Placed it resting on the frame for now and will see if my son will attempt some welding? (Not my thing) The Inner fender panel has the usual rust out on the battery box so maybe two projects for him... At this point I was able to drop the rear end. Suddenly the drivers door opens easier... Going to the back, posturing the next step? Cleaning up is mandated! Feeling a bit feverish by now I tried to roll her out a bit but... even with the transmission and engine out not an easy roller yet. Determined to get this done grabbed a ratchet strap and hooked up to the truck as an anchor. I got some movement and success! That was enough room to get me at the back and clean up some racoon treasures and insulation! ANYONE NEED RED 1978 VINYL TRUCK SEAT? It's going OUT! That was enough for today and enlisted help from my son to push her back into place for now. Tomorrow is supposed to be rain all day too but a bit colder. Need to get feeling better with that, the humidity and sweating (me too) is not a good thing for metal but happy about the progress today. Might have a hot toddy after supper...
  21. 4 points
    Visit with Wayne I had a nice visit today with fellow '41 Super owner, Wayne (414TATA on the forum). Wayne used to work in Colma, just south of SF, and drove up here today to visit some friends. We arranged a meeting place in Colma, and I drove down in my Super to meet him. We had a great time comparing notes and swapping stories about our cars -- both Super Model 51 four-doors. Here's a pic of Wayne with my car. Great meeting you, Wayne, I really enjoyed it!
  22. 4 points
    Almost finished today but realized I didn't have one of those bezel nuts to hold the switch in place but that's the last step. I probably have some in my cache of Century parts, but it's probably easier to just buy a scrap switch that has one already attached. I was able to access the blank slot by gently prying the ACCESSORY knob out of its slot--it's only held in with a piece of spring steel screwed to its top. I'll re-use the knob, which it's designed to do. Interestingly enough, there's a little pilot hole where you're supposed to drill and tap a hole for a set screw to hold the knob on the shaft of the switch. I'm pretty sure I have a tap that will work. I need one of those switch bezel nuts (left) to hold the new switch (right) in place First thing I did was connect wires to the switch itself so I could position it, then route the wires. One goes to the relay and the other would connect to the headlight switch terminal that feeds the taillights. I used standard ring terminals, soldered them in place, and wrapped them in shrink tubing. The red wires will be easy to identify in the future, although I need to make a wiring diagram so the next guy working on this car someday doesn't have to wonder what's going on. The rest of the wiring appears to be a newer wiring harness with correctly-colored wiring, so I'm grateful for that. It wasn't particularly well installed, but I can fix that as I work. Wires connected to the fog light switch Next thing was to pull the glove box loose to get access to the switch area on the right side of the center stack. Just a few screws and I was able to push it back enough to see where it would fit. A few wires from the heater switch were in the way, so I gently moved them aside and slid the switch into position. Switch fits neatly, as it should. While I was inverted under the dash, I noticed that the power cable for the radio was not only starting to fray, but also attached to the ignition switch, along with a bunch of other wires. It's a common way for amateurs to pick up power under the dash, but the switch isn't really designed to move the kind of current that it takes to power the radio. There wasn't much I could do about the frayed wire beyond carefully re-wrapping it with some electrical tape and re-routing it to keep it clear of the cowl vent mechanism. I also examined the headlight switch and discovered that there's an open +6V post that isn't being used. According to the wiring diagram, almost every electrical accessory inside the car is fed through the headlight switch for some reason, but there's a big 8-gauge wire attached to it to feed power to the lights and other systems. I checked my radio manual and discovered that yes, the radio is supposed to be connected to that spare post. Nice! So I connected it there and tested it--all good. Then I took what I call the "signal" wire from the fog light switch and attached a fork terminal and slid it under the parking light terminal on the headlight switch. No photos since there's not much to see under the dash. I ran the second wire, the one I call the "trigger" wire through the firewall with a bundle of other wires, then tucked it out of sight and routed it up to the relay. I know I vowed not to use anything that wasn't available in 1941, but I did use two zip ties to keep the wires in place. Nevertheless, the finished result looks pretty tidy: Trigger wire (red) connected to the relay alongside the heavy power wire Once it was all connected, I tested everything and it works as I expected. Success! By pulling the signal for the fog light switch from the taillight terminal, the fog lights only work when the taillights are on (meaning with the parking lights or headlights). Better yet, the fog lights shut off with the main headlight switch as well as with the fog light switch, so you're less likely to forget them. I also tested a full load on the headlight switch by turning on the hi-beams, fog lights, and radio, and then checked that 8-gauge power feed wire just to see if it was getting hot--nope. All good, working as intended. Last step was to fire it up (even after four months of sitting, the big guy fired in less than 10 seconds) and ensure that the generator can keep up with the electrical load. Again, no problems--at an elevated idle, it shows a slight charge with all the lights and the radio on. I'll find one of those mounting nuts this week and finish butting it back up, then move on to the next project. This was a lot of work, but it was also very rewarding.
  23. 4 points
    It has taken a while because I've been a little busy with other stuff. But here are some pictures of my mostly finished 1933 Chevy Air Cleaner that I purchased through the internet (thanks to the AACA Forum website and Dave Henderson). I still need to attach the decal that I got from The Filling Station. But I will wait a few days before putting it on to let the paint cure for a while. I used heat resistant enamel primer and paint. And Chore Boy copper pads. My thanks to everyone who gave the advise on this project. I am totally satisfied with how it turned out.
  24. 4 points
    All my springs are new. The fronts are Moog from NAPA. The rears are the second set from a company, Suspension Specialties (?). The first were too high. All the suspension bushings are new, the body mounts are all new, and it rides on the original spec 7.10X15's with gas shocks. All suspension pivot points were free and the bolts were tightened with the car resting on the floor. It sagged quite low when I bought it for a combination of reasons. The body mounts probably gained me at least an inch, The ones over the rear arch of the frame were the worst and may have had the most visual affect after the springs themselves. It is still a low car when you stand next to it and I am happy with the results. The rear of the body on these cars has surprisingly low weight. If I was real fussy I might loosen the rear suspension and preload it to get a 1/2" more drop. I guess I could always throw in a set of period luggage. BTW the vinyl is gone and a lot of paint has been scuffed up with sandpaper. This year the new paint goes on. Bernie
  25. 4 points
    I don't know of many open 7-passenger touring cars that also have roll-up windows. You're talking oranges and grapefruits, so to speak. A convertible sedan will have roll-up windows but most are 5-passenger models, not 7. A 7-passenger touring car will not have windows, just side curtains. They look significantly different, even though both are 4-door convertibles, with the touring cars generally being more sporting and less formal-looking. Convertible sedans often have a more upright look simply because of the roll up windows--the angles have to be straighter to accommodate the flat glass. Here's a 1934 Packard Eight convertible sedan: Here's a 1934 Packard Eight 7-passenger touring: You can see the differences quite easily. One isn't better than the other, but the experience is different. For instance, I know of very few convertible sedan owners who actually put their tops down regularly because it's a big job. Phaeton tops go down more easily but don't seal up as well in inclement weather (although neither will be anything like a modern car). At any rate, if you're looking for a big, high-end open car, you can't go wrong with any of the major marques, Cadillac, Packard, Lincoln, Marmon, etc. Bodies can be catalog bodies or customs, and prices are all over the map depending on how much car is under the body and just how custom the body is. There are those who will argue for their own personal favorites, but in that time period, all the high-end marques were exceptional cars. Find the one you like the best and that's the right one for you. I would encourage you to drive all your potentials as well, since they often do drive quite differently. Again, not better or worse, just different. But you will not regret any quality Full Classic open car of the early '30s, they're my personal favorites. Have fun in the search!
  26. 4 points
    This was what Dad bought and took 28 years to do an amature restoration in his garage. His beloved 1928 Whippet Cabriolet. RIP Dad.
  27. 4 points
    Had a hard time trying to picture this Roadmaster (ex)Station wagon here or on the "I hate the picture..."
  28. 4 points
    A four wheel drive diesel tractor with a front end loader is a beautiful thing in the winter. That with a rear scraper blade makes quick work of snow.
  29. 4 points
    Yep, stay away from there. He'll either put you to work or sell you something.
  30. 4 points
    Could not wait for the weekend. Still plying the roads like it is 1960.
  31. 4 points
    Door Lock Problem Another item on my list was fixing the door locks so I could lock my car. When I got the car, the key cylinder was missing altogether from the driver's door, and the key would not open the door on the passenger side. As a result, it was possible to lock the car, but that didn't do me any good because there was no way to unlock it from the outside once it was locked. First step was to remove all the hardware and take the door panels off. I don't know about anyone else, but I'm not a big fan of the GM system of securing the inside cranks and handles with those nearly impossible to get at clips that have a tendency to "fly away" once you finally get them off. I got a special tool from Bob's that helps a lot, but it's still a hassle. But enough complaining ... Here's the latch mechanism, door handle, and key lock once I got them out of the door. The Shop Manual had very good instructions with photos showing how to do this. (I love the photos in the shop manual that always show the mechanics dressed in white smocks like doctors.) I was fortunately able to see right away where the problem was. The round piece with the triangular hole for the rod from the key cylinder has two "ears" on it (one of which is obscured in this photo). The pointy part (lever?) is supposed to sit down between the two ears. When you turn the key, the ears hit the lever and either lock or unlock the door (pulling the button down or popping it up). On my car, the lever had gotten bent up so it rode above the "ears" and consequently, turning the key did nothing. Here's a close up showing the lever riding on top of one of the "ears" instead of sitting down between them. Side view showing the problem Lever bent back down -- all fixed. All cleaned up and ready to get a little grease in the right spots and go back in the car. I have to wait to put everything back together because I ordered new rubber from Steele's while I had it all apart. It will sure expand my horizons to be able to lock the car when I park it!
  32. 3 points
    Never thought I would have need to post in the Pre War forum but thought this was a good excuse. A friend notified me he had just bought a 1919 Buick and texted a picture and it looked real nice. While I am a 60s Buick enthusiast, I do appreciate and have interest in learning about cars much older so wife and I took opportunity to go visit last night to see this gem. The car appears to have been well taken care of with 33k miles. It was originally titled in PA so apparently always in PA. The interior upholstery appears to be original? The car started right up and ran very smooth and quiet. He said it runs and drives fine . Feel free to comment on anything notable.
  33. 3 points
    But ill definetly keep an eye on the plugs while ive got it in there thanks for the info
  34. 3 points
    First, the ONLY reason to buy a new carburetor is that you like shiny items. There are absolutely NO new carburetor produced today that will function as well on your BUICK as a worn-out original. Rebuild the original and there is absolutely no comparison. Not only will the originals seriously outperform the new stuff, everything fits, and if you (or your estate, if you are like me with your cars) sell it, the original will create a larger universe of potential buyers, AND a higher price. Even if you do not have an original, while not common as a 6-cylinder Chevy, they are NOT rare, and not expensive. I probably have 15~20 in inventory, and there are other vendors that should also have one. If you really wish a different than original carb, upgrades would include a Q-Jet calibrated for Buick (I would suggest a 1968~1970 version if you choose this option) or a Carter thermoquad (TQ) calibrated for the Buick engine. BOTH OF THESE OPTIONS REQUIRE CHANGING TO A SPREAD-BORE INTAKE MANIFOLD as Ed suggested above. The spread-to-square adapters are for used-car salesmen! ALL of the e-clones including the AVS are calibrated for small-block Chevy. How good are your tuning skills, and how much do you wish to spend on tuning parts? Jon.
  35. 3 points
  36. 3 points
    Stooge, It would have probably made both my life and your life easier if you had found it before I did, but I am enjoying the project.
  37. 3 points
  38. 3 points
    Old Tank: Hold off on that paint can. Here is a picture of my insulation pad. I purchased it some years back from these people: https://www.rubbertherightway.com/1955-buick-restoration-parts-hood-52759-prd1.htm This picture was taken with out a flash to hopefully represent the true color, dark grey. The flash picture shows the pad in a greenish color. Even the non-flash picture shows a tint of green. Hope this helps.
  39. 3 points
    alllllright , i am no carpenter but i think i just impressed myself ! an i never wanna do this again ! hand build console no planer , joiner ,basicly no nothing that you should have for wood work ,except a square , straight edge an a jigsaw. an I been at this thing since 9 am now its midnight . I did narrow it only 1 inch an it should give a 1/2 inch of room on the seats now . 3 things left to do to it in the morning cut an opening for the radio an fill an sand it an prime so its ready for paint an upholstery .
  40. 3 points
    I picked up one for my car. But it had to be something special.
  41. 3 points
    Since i was pretty happy with the state of the replacement outer skin, i started to cobble together the inner structure/sill section. It didnt look too great but there was quite alot of good metal still left and i would like to replace/disrupt as little of the door as possible to lessen the chance of some aspect of the door losing its shape as more and more metal gets cut out. Started with a cardboard template to get a general idea of shape that i needed to cut out from the new 18ga sheet metal. Made a slightly rounded edge down the length of the new piece to match the inner sill area where the outer folds over, and started hammering out the curves on either side where the inner meets the outer, roughed in and approximated fist before i cut out the inner strucure, and slightly refined a bit afterwards. Still have some massaging, trimming and final fitment before it gets welded in, but its pretty close. I chose to leave the large support brace in the original place to the original sheetmetal and made a cutout to accomodate for it in the new piece. The metal in that area is still good and i was hesitant of cutting it out and risk having some aspect of the door fall out of shape.
  42. 3 points
    We also had a couple of warmer days this week and took her out for a spin.
  43. 3 points
    I have had many projects and restored cars over the years. Being one to do their own work on mine and friends cars when I was home not traveling for work. First restoration was a 1961 VW van for $50. in 76 then graduated to a model A. Have had from a military jeep to a 71 Vet 454 convertible now all gone but one. I bought a 1930 Cadillac Victoria in 1984 that was disassembled in the mid 60s that had passed hands a couple of times. Has all original metal and wood. I worked on it a couple of years then put it away in the corner of my barn for 25 years. Over the years had many offers to sell by strangers and one major museum so I would put on a ridicules price for them to go away. Pulled it out after I retired and finished it off driving it on tours both sides of the boarder. Should have it in Mississippi this year on the Sentimental tour. The first two is how it was when I got it except for the painted firewall then how it looks today. The dog in the picture is Whiskey best dog I ever had. I had a 13 T roadster back then and he would have his rear paws on the running board and front paws on the front fenders when we went out for a ride. You did not dare touch the car when he was in it. More stories about that dog and the T he owned.
  44. 3 points
    By far, the bulk of this trailer load of metal was 13ft more or less. And, the folks at the metal place stacked it heavy on one end, I’m sure anticipating this situation. I’ve had the tail wagging the dog before on loads like that and it’s dangerous. This was a smooth pull.
  45. 3 points
    The n has extra white that ran over. Since it's chrome, I can probably get the extra white off with some solvent. I got the "Commander" lettering onto the trunk today. Found that two of the holes still had the trim clips in them (painted over). Punched them out, then filed the holes a little to shift them in the direction of the pins on the lettering. Also found the top of the "C" was squeezed down about 3/8" from where the hole was in the trunk. Looking at photos of other cars, I think the hole in the trunk is correct, and the letter C got bent down some. So I carefully bent the letter until it aligned with all 4 holes. I also filed the extra chrome flash out from the inside of the letters.
  46. 3 points
    600-W seems to turn to tar in a few decades. I change 600-W on a 10-year schedule. Once I acquired a car with tar-ish 600-W, drained it overnight, added 20W-50 motor oil, drove it about 20 mph around a couple of blocks to circulate it, drained again overnight, and filled with fresh 600-W.
  47. 3 points
    https://modesto.craigslist.org/cto/d/1951-buick/6473085022.html Just took me awhile and I had to go to California. 1951 BUICK low number model, I have all documentation of this car in binders This car is far from a project car but it has been sitting but it is started up regularly Carb rebuild and basic tune up would make this an everyday driver. Interior is very clean body is clean has a small area of rust in passenger rear quarter panel. Still has 6 volt system With straight 8 motor.I have the skirts for it also. This IS AN AMAZING CAR !!! I don't have the room to store or i would keep it. Text Gary 209-261-4171 no cashiers checks! 11,500 obo maybe partial Harley trades vintage camper partial trades text me ! No Cashiers checks from Zimbabwe or any other far off places!
  48. 3 points
    Don't be too eager to pull the body off. The amount of bracing needed to avoid damage and misalignment is substantial. The other aspect is with the body on the frame , you are properly jigged up to re-wood that big body. That is a tough enough task to do under the best of circumstances. Just a little deviation , or flex may make it somewhere between overwhelmingly difficult and impossible to get the car right again. Even a steel framed car has to be properly braced in order to pull the body. Your situation is vastly more critical. There are plenty of other things you can do with all of the running gear , etc. to keep you busy while doing the wood. Let this be an invitation to the very experienced guys here to explain the correct sequence to deal with a large 4 door sedan in this condition. I have never done it , nor at this point ever will. Take your time , ask a lot of questions , and don't assume anything regarding new tricks. - CC
  49. 3 points
    Also thinking this was never originally a coachbuilt flower car. None of the established coachbuilders extended the fenders on '41s/ used the S60S. Nothing else seems to match up with an original pro car, including the roofline, the trim, the side window, the wheelbase, etc. All the pics I've seen of '41s show commercial-length cars with 4 doors.
  50. 3 points
    Will be a magnificent car when done. I hope you have in writing that you will be the future owner, even if the "real owner" is family and the basis/cost of the work being done. Some other family members of the real owner may think it worth a gazillion dollars (now and later)