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  1. 15 likes
    5:30 this morning at work. This morning was quite warmer than yesterdays 42degrees. Was a balming 56!
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    Took the 56 fourty miles tonight for the Wednesday Cruise in. This gave me a chance to run her at highway speeds for several miles. I have been a fool for not changing that PS pump years ago! What a difference!
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    My wife had her AACA Senior 71 Riviera out to a local car show in the next town, here in Virginia, yesterday. She took first in class. We'll use it on the AACA Founders Tour in PA next month. Using it as a second car this summer in Virginia.
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    After changing the fuel filter and trying to see if it was running OK, decided to pull her out, put the top up (after sitting down for a long time) then..... did the obligatory around the neighbourhood drive till more confident things are good for the long trip.
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    Just returned from a 700-mile three-day cruise with the "Cars of the Jet Age" group. Our silver '59 Electra is shown here with a few of the other cars at a retired Atlas Missile silo from the early 1960's. We were in a rural area of Washington state.
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    Buick Driving Enthusiasts(BDE) "Cherry Blossoms and Lakes" Tour Traverse City, Michigan
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    Geeze Matt! That is absolutely gorgeous!!! Meanwhile, took the GS out for a 94 mile lunch tour today. Went on some roads I never traveled before. Where's Waldo?
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    I drove 30 miles to the West Friendship Car Show hosted by the Howard County Living Farm Museum. Received a Top 40 of 150 or so cars participating.
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    The only Buick at the show. Drew quite a bit of attention. Was a bit overcast and chilly, but a great turnout.
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    With weather forecasts predicting wild, rainy weather I thought I was looking at a weekend inside with the Buick under a blanket, Anyway the weathermen got it wrong again fortunately and we had a beautiful autumn's day here. So with some Artie Shaw playing I ended up going on a 60 mile trip on the back-roads of the New South Wales Central Coast (60 miles north of Sydney). On the final leg home I ran into a car show at the same location we had the ROA show and shine two weeks ago. They had a wide range of Chevrolets, Dodges, Holdens, Fords and a smattering of European cars. Only one Buick though.....Despite driving through lots of beautiful countryside that looked a lot like Maine in September, I forgot to stop and take a photo of my '36, sigh.
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    I know how much you guys love pictures, so here you go... 1411 and 1481 Throttle lever adapter. Plugged the heat runners, hooked up the choke to the key- on wire from the wipers, it took 6 cranks for the filter to fill up and she started right up... Choke was on for about 3 minutes, then right out of the box idle at 550 RPM. Amazing. I couldn't believe it... Snapped the throttle a couple of times, gone was the hesitation. Right out of idle, snap it, step on it, hammer it, call it whatever you want, this girl is eager to play... Went for a drive, half way up to Tulsa and back, poured in some seafoam into the oil and had her first oil change afterwards. It is amazing what this carburetor can do. I was fighting hesitation, "stumble" right out of idle, sometimes it would choke and die. I can replace gaskets, but this thing needed a lot more. I asked around and the "King" doesn't rebuild them any more, he just sells the kits. I opted for the Edelbrock, I have been happy with the 1406 in my 56, so there you go. Plug and play. Even the kick down switch worked like factory. I was going to remove the valve covers and pain them too, but does the passenger side one needs the A/C bracket to cove off? The engine was clean inside, cam was clean, there was very little sludge, the fan clutch was damaged, so I replaced it with another one. Car came with Autolite 86 plugs, I have a new set of AC44S plus some new wires I will do next week. 150 miles today, she drives like a dream... HP power steering hose has a small cut and that's were it leaks, I do have a replacement. Radio was not working, took it apart, cleaned it, lubed it and works perfect. Clock was dead, the thermal fuse was not damaged, I cleaned it, lubed it and put it back on, works like a champ. I polished the spot where the veneer used to go, I really liked the look sans veneer, so I removed the rest of it from the glove box. Don't have a picture, but will upload one next week. Flushed the radiator, bought a fan shroud that will beed a little bit of fabrication to make it work, ($22 off eBay) but after the new fan clutch, I let her sit idle for 45 minutes and the highest temperature I saw was 182 top 122 bottom (IR thermometer) Took the whole dash apart, cleaned up al the dust from the plenums and vents, checked the vacuum hoses and put everything back together sealing any gaps. A/C works, heater works, even the speedo buzzer works. Cleaned up the seats, the off white really popped up. There is one 2" tear by my left shoulder, I got some vinyl repair kit I will try next week. Polished the stainless and the chrome, cleaned up the paint, went over the brakes, will need shocks for now, I kind of like the saggy springs look... Painted the air filter housing, got a new decal from cars, used a ring adapter and it fits on the new carburetor. The paint I used was the Detroit green by Duplicolor. Once the valve covers are painted, it will all match. Not oem, but good enough for me. If I had to use one word to describe her, it would be "elegant". She is quiet, not "in your face" like the 56 and she will stay like that. My main goal was to fix the hesitation and Edelbrock took care of that. I think I will give the Bilsteins a try. Will report back soon.
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    Another visit to Henry Shane Museum in Metairie, Louisiana - less than one mile from home. In addition to the 1958 Century convertible, Mr. Shane aquired Bob Coker's Buick Landau. We visited on Saturday when the museum was open to the CCCA CARavan which drove their Full Classics from St. Louis, MO to Metairie, LA. After the museum visit, the group enjoyed a buffet at Andrea's Restaurant, and planned to visit the WWII Museum and Mardi Gras World the next day.
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    No long drive for me, but I did finally get the wagon out of storage, changed all the fluids and then a quick wash. Was able to cruise around town to complete some errands... feels like a modern car compared to the 67... not bad for a 40 year old car! The Electra is patiently waiting it's time in the sun, but I was able to polish it up and get her ready after winter a few weeks ago. We had a very snowy winter and a very wet spring up in the Pacific NW, so the cars are coming out a little later... it was very nice to work on the cars in a t-shirt and shorts.
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    Yesterday the Long Island Chapter of the BCA visited the Waterfront Garage in Roslyn, long island, NY to see the collection of Howard Kroplick. The last time we visited was in Nov. 2014. It was a very warm and sunny day, perfect blue skys and many people got a bit of a tan! A dozen Buicks were there and the oldest was a 1937 sedan. Howard was very gracious host and we were able to view his 1909 Alco race car, 1937 Chrysler Imperial LeBaron town car (built for Mrs. W.P. Chrysler), 1963 Mustang pre production experimental car , as well as his latest acquisition a 1948 Tucker. The great grandsons of Preston Tucker drove in from Pa. to be there with us; and several members of the Minute Man Chapter of BCA drove the 5 plus hours down from Mass. to be there as well. The local VW Club also attended, as did a beautifully restored 1941 Cadillac coupe, 1979(?) Cadillac station wagon and 1940 Chevy resto rod. Photos of the event will be posted on the Long Island Buick Club website in a few days as well on Howard Kroplick's Vanderbilt Cup Races website as well. I got my 1940 Roadmaster convertible sedan out and drove it to its first event of the season.
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    After changing the old stale gas in the tank, took her out around the neighbourhood and ended up at my old home. Went inside and told Mom (just like a kid - haha) come see what I have!
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    I don't come to the forum as often as I used to, but when I do this is my favorite show!
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    try turning the lights out in the garage and while trying to find the front door, misjudge where the long ass front end of the '38 Special is and end up with your left leg stuck between the front fender and bumper. With a Yuengling in one hand and holding a cat on your shoulder with the other none the less. A whole new meaning for "wildcat"
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    I totally agree! See I'm only 18 years old and I feel that I am most likely one of the youngest on this site. I joined a few days back and I have already learned so much!! But in my opinion, Older cars are more fascinating and not a big jelly bean like most modern cars appear to be. And anyways, People call me weird for being so young and loving Buicks, but I don't really care what people think, they all fascinate me!
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    After investigation of powder-coating I decided it was just too expensive. The pan hubcaps will just scratch it and in my area the price was $75. Per color, per wheel. Spray paints were only $25.00 for all the rims and since everything was blasted to begin with it made the choice real easy.
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    THere's alot of questionable things done to cars over the years. I dont worry about it too much as long as someone is having fun with their car I think its all good. We have all seen that car at a cruise in where we cant believe someone wants it but there it is. You see "tacky" stuff in stores and in peoples houses and you let it go so why are cars different? All tastes are different and unless its something that is only one of a kind I dont worry about modifications. LIfes too short.
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    It was a busy month and I haven't been posting here as I should. Had the Buick in the Car Corral display at the Concour d'Elegance in Arlington, Texas in April, along with about 120 others that were not on the show field. May 6-7 we were on the Spring Tour with our local AACA club group. The tour group met in Weatherford, TX, with the first stop at the National Vietnam War Museum. From there we drove to the historic US Post Office in Mineral Wells for a box lunch and Mineral Wells/Baker Hotel history presentation. After lunch we drove to the Palo Pinto Old Jail and Museum Complex, ending the day at the Holiday Inn Express in Graham. Dinner at the Graham Country Club. On Sunday 7 May, we traveled to Jacksboro and toured Fort Richardson, ending back in Weatherford for lunch at the Vintage Grille and Car Museum which has a collection of 30 classic automobiles and trucks. About 300 miles for the Buick with no issues! Then, this past Saturday the local BCA meeting. Here are a few random photos:
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    This is my first Buick a 1963 Special with an all aluminum 215 nailhead v8 (pinhead) and auto transmission shes been sitting in a warehouse for twenty five years
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    When I mentioned Home in the last video, I must explain. That is where I grew up and was living when I bought the Special in the summer of '72. I went inside to get mom to come and see I had the car back on the road again. She hasn't seen it for a long time and said she didn't remember it being so long. With tomorrow being our Holiday and a weekly car show at a local restaurant/pub, will be checking the fluids again, picking up my wife and driving the Special to her first car show in a looong time. Just before we do though, will be stopping here again with the top down and recreate this picture from 1984. The car looks about the same(?) but not sure the occupants will!?
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    Son "How far did you go?" Father "About half way to the next bridge." Son "Where did you turn around." Father :Just in the road." "Really?" "Really"
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    I never open this without getting a smile.
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    Discovered out in Arizona by a friend, this 1941 Buick Super convertible coupe (Model 56C) finally dropped on my doorstep this afternoon after weeks of waiting. You know I couldn't resist taking it for a spin and I'll probably take it home tonight. 2007 AACA National First Prize winner, correct English Green with green leather, and it drives quite well. Remarkable how the small cars feel so much like the big cars despite significant differences in the hardware. It still feels substantial and powerful and around town the size is just right. Also note the "elephant ear" bumper ends, which work well on the convertible coupe body style--I don't usually like them but on that rear view, they look especially attractive. Just another one I wish I could keep for myself, but I already did that with two cars in the past two years. I'll go out of business if I keep it up...
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    Having a second Teen Hood (not childhood ) I drove her to school here 45 years ago.
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    I swear, it just followed me home! Sorry about the messy garage. That's where the daily drivers live. It's been under construction for a few months. Sure looks good tonight, though...
  33. 4 likes
    Hopefully they screwed up your credit card number as well, then you should be good to go.
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    While struggling to load the car, pinhead and Mr Earl were kicking rocks.... Ha ha ha jk... sorry about the ruts in your driveway
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    As seen at "Cuba Nostalgia" an exposition where all cuban things are celebrated as food, music, art to include 50's vintage vehicles that used to roam the island highways BC (Before Castro) the 57 ragtop is available 4sale if anybody is interested (have owner info) photos taken at Miami-Dade County Youth Fairgrounds. Will post more in Gallery later on.
  36. 4 likes
    Listing for a Friend - 1957 Buick Roadmaster 75 Older Restoration in Excellent Condition. 50,106 Miles. Location - Carroll Iowa. Price - $25k Firm! phantomcaddy@comcast.net
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    Aw geez, look what Bill P made me go and do...and FINISH, ...today: It took 5-6 hours but I have an excuse,.... I did it the right way, no shortcuts, no forgotten things, some of which are unknown to some people. More complicated than the casual stock "restorers" can imagine. I did the many modifications to my Nash for two basic reasons over the years. Most mods were due to the final realization that there simply are no parts cars out there, and very few used parts available, ever. Then, I needed for my own tastes, to swap ratios...so learn to deal with it Not going to give my life's background, as to how I gained all the needed skills to figure it out, or what to do, ..maybe I will someday.... I did not just weld a new taper on, to slap the wheel on.. I have a steering box that uses a bigger diameter column jacket tube. The 32 Nash SECOND series uses a smaller size diameter. Here is the stock original to my car, column jacket bumping the oversized stub of the First series box..".it don't fit on" ..lol The tube is supposed to go over that nub of the box, with a clamp bolt. And the Hupp wheel's underside recess that goes over a Hupp size column, is in between those other two diameters. We need to splice both ends of my stock column, to proper diametrical needs. I knew I'd start with the very bottom part donor slice with that bolt clamp, from the 32 First series bigger tube, then try to find a piece of scrap thick wall pipe or tube, to adapt that splice, to the much smaller OD second series column jacket. The reason I must use the stock original jacket is NOT for originality...it slides through the dashboard hanging brace which cannot be bored out for a fatter column. Also even if I could bore it out, now is even harder to make that tube fit in the under side of of the Hupp wheel. . Let's rock... I am so very backlogged with life's chores, my hobby cars, like getting all the LaS stuff indoors or parts cars moved, and MORE customer stuff coming in, I need to be fast, hopefully not burning out, not getting hurt or making costly mistakes that add hours to fix,, Those somkin' task days, sometimes get a push from the radio. I use what is called "alternative rock" for this fab work, as I just don't get many airwaves here to choose in the valley, and I use Laptop 50s-60s while doing vintage style hot rod work. Do whatever makes something happen A song came on and one line was "where are they going, without even knowing the way". I know where I am going, but must record where I "was": Above pic. Fast sketch so I know how much tapered Hupp shaft protruded from the Hupp column. I need it when I try to weld on the top of the Hupp shaft. Bill's advice made me realize that even if another hobbyist needs the Hupp BOX itself, he'd likely need to swap tapers for HIS style of wheel. So...I need the spliced on, new shaft top, to be 1-3/4", so it tucks up under the Wheel. I also took a top sliced piece of the Hupp jacket as it had the correct ID upper shaft support bushing...saves time again. The spliced piece is tacked, it will be welded/blended if everything all fits together, from top to bottom. But where are we wanting the wheel to sit as far as closer or further from dash? We can't do that yet, as we need to cut down the BOTTOM of the Nash tube to have the steering column locking slide bolt be where it needs to be: Here I measure the difference of location of too long a tube, to where the bracket needs to bolt. Subtract that distance from bottom of tube, then install the tube... Well we still can't dial in the tube really sturdy until getting an adapter to fit the tube to the different diameter of box nub. I looked for the thickwall stuff I said earlier but had none, and it takes a lot longer to make a one piece adapter on lathe. I found out that if I used a slice of the Dodge tube, and add another slice of random exaust tube, it all fits together FAST. Here is tacked, it will be fully welded and smoothed/blended later, when stuff gets paint. Above pic, see the blue tape to show a feature: See the"key hole" shaped slot that gets clamped at the bottom? The clamp gets slid so that only the round hole at top of key hole shows.... then that spring tensioned band covers that hole. Why? that is just another style of common "Column oiling hole" that sends oil to the UPPER worm bearing, that is ABOVE the box oil level. (many cars have just an open hole, this band keeps dust out.) Supposed to be done during Oil/grease jobs, along with dozens of other spots in the owners manual. Don't/can't get a manual? Get a lube chart, repro or original made for your model, they were made for gas station lube shops. If you never did a frame off, you cannot imagine all the hidden places you are supposed to do !!! Back to this pic again... I cannot splice the new piece on until I know if the wheel is too close/far from dash. That splined shaft was put on by a rodder, so it cannot be used as a good guess of distance, right? I walked away from the battle scene, with wheel in hands, squatted down, and held it away till I got a good feel of arm distance, then sat in the stock Nash seat, hoping new seat stuffing and upholstery would be close to my blankets "mock up". I ended up liking it closer to the dash with "this" new diameter of wheel. Now another critical splice. Two things!!! The wheel is a single key to locate it to the worm shaft, right? And in prior posts, I said finding the "true high spot" on the worm, and it MUST be at that high spot when wheels are dead straight. More later on the wheels angles. Right now I cannot care if wheels are dead perfect or not. Because, I am only concerned right this moment, to find the true worm center by feeling the drag on worm, then decide how you want the wheel to be...like one spoke facing straight down, or one straight up top? The stock keyway was at top dead center with one spoke pointing straight down , so that was my clue, and it felt OK and looked OK. Now we slice and dice, and weld. First caution, do not put welding ground cable on chassis, it needs to be right on that shaft. Chassis grounded will cause arching at the worm roller bearings!! It makes pits as it arcs, getting a poor ground, ruining your irreplaceable worm gear with permanent races. I measured how far to top of the hotrod spline tip, then saw I needed to end up all finished at 1/4" higher than it was. That is my knowing where I was. Cut off the old spline end, but Not at where that bushing rides, and MUST leave enough on both parts to be set into the angle iron welding alignment "tool". Clamp both ends of both parts, 4 clamps total. You have angle ground both for weld penetration. You must leave a slight gap between the two. Why? because if they are touching, the first tack welds will shrink like all welds do. That shrink will try to pull the shafts tighter together and can usually cause the cooled tack welded splice to be bent as you take that angle off..... to do the last under side tack. Below, you tack two spots only, 120 degrees apart. Go away, let it cool off without water. Then take clamps off, and rotate the splice 120 in the angle tool. One tack will now be at bottom of that angle tool not hitting to cause misalignment, the other is missing the side of tool angle, so it can now be clamped again without hitting the first two tacks. That last tack, you can tack, or let 'er rip, as I did. Now go have a coffee, it will be VERY hot with a 120 degree welded spot. Then when cool....unclamp it, and sight down the entire shaft as a precaution, then weld the rest up. On columns with the lockbolt. You need to install the lock bolt shaft "collar" down further on shaft, before the splice welds. That way you don't need to grind down the welds to slide it over. I prefer to leave the welds as is. My welds are hot enough, and wicked strong, but a weaker weld, ground down, can be weaker. Below is the original First Series collar for the lock bolt. It was a fatter column, so it cannot fit in a smaller diameter tube. I found a few, but not the original one for my old Ross ?? No biggie, I can just add two lightly welded spots on two thick strips, the bolt will fit between. Then if ever needed to remove for some reason, a quick cut with a cutoff wheel' Above: The old home made wooden steering wheel shaft/taper adapter. I give them credit as I bet they lacked tooling, but it really was slightly wrong, and a pain, when I HAD to try to reuse it for the big 34 Buick wheel. If I forgot important stuff I won't edit, I will do a new post that won't get overlooked. Final words. I said I did not care if wheels were pointing straight ahead when I installed the steering wheel/ keyway/ aligned to the worm high spot. Soon, I need to straighten the badly bent drag link. Then I will make sure that rebend also makes the front wheels DEAD straight at the worm center high spot. You must never forget that high spot if you want it correct and want ZERO freeplay. Trust me on that one thing..... if nothing else/
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    Love the comparison of '49 to '59. Could they get any more signage onto that store front? Supposedly the dealer is still operating...
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    OK - here is what happened. Unscrewed the retainer ring, pushed the ignition unit out, unplugged unit from wires. Now, all I had to do was remove the lock cylinder and then I could use a screwdriver turn the ignition. (Remember, all tools are locked in the trunk, but I could buy a screwdriver.) However, at this point I decided to check the last place on campus I was unable to check last night - the library - one of my last stops before returning to the car at 6PM and finding the keys gone. It was 9AM and they were closed (this being graduation day) but I saw someone in the building and pounded on the door. And there, on the floor in front of the circulation desk, were the keys. Plugged everything back in, inserted the key, turned the ignition and she turned right over. The very next thing I tried to do was get the keys copied. However, the old time hardware store (there before I was a student 40 years ago) did not have the blanks so I will pick some up online. So I go to actually enjoy some reunion events today. Now headed to the class dinner, then it is a long drive home tomorrow. Many, many thanks to all - some good information and good advice, and hopefully I will never need any of it again!
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    On a compression test its the balance that matters. The 20 percent usually means balance. In a perfect world cylinders would all be exactly the same, but with rough cast combustion chambers it just varies. Many shop manuals say 20 percent. On a new engine I would expect it to more or less meet that, but wouldn't suspect trouble if it barely missed. Random cars off the street could have 25 percent or maybe even a little more and not be broken. If your lowest was 100psi, 20 percent would be 120psi. Thats not far off from what you are seeing. Matching the absolute numbers in the book is another thing entirely. I have a pretty good compression gauge (snap-on), and have never duplicated another person's exact numbers. The balance will be the same as any other competent person gets. If there is a cylinder at 40psi (burned valve) it will still be super low when I test it. If cylinder 6 was the highest compression, it still will be. I ignore the absolute numbers entirely, unless its so far low or high that I suspect wrong valve timing. Compression testing is easy and quick, and can find stuff like burned valves (most common cause of a cylinder way lower than the others) or worn compression rings (by dry checking and then wet checking). Leakdown testing is more trouble but tells you a lot more. You have to bring each cylinder to exact TDC, then adjust a regulator on the tester. It tells you PERCENTAGE OF LEAKAGE. Again, like compression results vary with different people and different testers, but some average cars might have 20 percent. some tired but just fine ones might have even 35. A new engine, fully broken in, might have on the order of 5 if its really good. It might be 10. You want less. 2 would be nice, but if you have that, you probably spent hours in the machine shop nitpicking every last little detail of every detail of every detail. In the real world I doubt you will ever see it. Those numbers assume it is all ring leakage. While the tester is running listen for air. Figure out where the air is going. This is where the leakdown tester really shines. If an exhaust valve is burned, It will hiss out the exhaust pipe. If an intake valve is warped or burned (extremely rare) it will hiss out the intake (open the throttle and listen). A head gasket blown between cylinders would hiss out the adjacent cylinder. A head gasket blown into the water jacket blows bubbles in the radiator. It should only hiss through the crankcase (listen at oil cap), because the leakage should all be through the rings. One cylinder with a much higher leakage number might indicate a broken ring or holed piston or a scored cylinder. Have someone disconnect the air from tester for a moment while you listen to the various leak points, so you don't get fooled by the "sea shell" effect. The reason I thought of your PCV experiment was that I thought there wasn't an actual pcv port on the carb. If the port was out in a manifold runner I would expect the oil to go to one cylinder. Maybe 2. On a carbureted car, a tiny air leak at a vacuum connection on a manifold runner can cause a miss on one cylinder by making it too lean. I would expect oil vapor to follow the same path, and foul one plug.
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    Our local car club visited this car collection today......not a Buick among them, the owner is a Dodge, GMC, Fiat, Alfa dealer. Check out the "club" room on the balcony.....
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    But that Tallahassee collection is worth paying to see. Here is another local collection, only about 15 cars and this guy does own a Buick...BCA member Gordon Logan is the owner of Sport Clips hair cut chain, he has a 1924 touring car because his father had a similar car, it is not in these pictures. Here is a place down by Houston...just off I-10 called Hemi Hideout, he only has 19 cars..Hemi and 440 engines, but the building and signs are the impressive part, you can find it on the internet.
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    1. Use a hone stone for a drill to remove the shoulder in the cylinder. 2. Removing from the bottom is probably tough. Not to mention the piston rings should be installed with the piston from the top. It would be hell from the bottom with crank in . This on a drill will remove the ridge at the top of the cylinder. Need it to cross hatch the cylinder when ready to install the new rings. Good tool you need for this job. Plenty of youtube videos on how to use it.
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    I installed the HyperTech Power Stat #1007 today. At highway speeds It keeps my engine at about 173 on a 90* day like we had today. David, thanks for figuring out what needed to be done make it work in our 3800s. I might post a tutorial on ROJ about what needs to be done to install the 170 degree thermostat, so it will be easy to find, if anyone is interested.
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    Some here have touched on the fact that car shows and events can be a challenge when it comes to appealing to spouses and their young children. I thought it would be good to pass along what a friend of mine does at a Volkswagen car event he runs that addresses the young children. Maybe the AACA should consider doing something like this or something else geared to children this age since this method has shown proven results. The first year or two my friend started running this VW car show, his mother noticed something when she was at the event helping out. She noticed the there were not a lot of families at the event with young children (ie children 10 and under). The children she did see appeared bored and not very excited. The following year she decided that the children needed something to do at least for a little while that would get them excited about being at the car show and actually make them want to be there. So, she decided to start a VW coloring and trivia contest for the children. She set up a couple EZ Up tents with tables at the show. She then found some illustrations of various VWs that the children could color. She purchased crayons at the end of the local stores "Back to School" sales at a deep discount. All during the year prior to the VW show she purchased Volkswagen matchbox and Hot Wheel cars whenever she came across them along with other car based toys, etc (ie a DVD of Disney's "Cars" or one of the Herbie The Love Bug movies). The coloring contest is broken down into different age groups with winners in each group. There are also very easy trivia questions with prizes and other give-a-ways as well. (basically each child goes home with something). During these activities (which take about 45 minutes) the children have a lot of fun and their parents get a chance to sit down in the shade under a nearby tent and relax watching their children have fun. Over the last few years I have watched this activity grow in size. When I asked my friend how this event went last year (2016) he told me his Mom told him that she had SIXTY-THREE children take part in these activities last year. Needless to say the word is out among parents as attendance for this activity has continued to grow every year as has show car (up to about 200 cars) and spectator attendance. These activities are free for the children and run by my friend's Mother (a retiree with grand children who loves kids) and some other daughters and mothers who help out. The smiles on the children's faces and their parent's faces says it all. So, this is an example of something a Grandmother did that has sparked an interest in young children and motivated the children and their parents to come to a car show. Maybe the AACA should think about activites like this for children at their events (ie Meets or Annual Meeting) that would make those events more appealing to the children and their parents. That might be one way to grow membership of younger people who have children. Charlie
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    Edinmass, I thoroughly agree with you. These forums should be apolitical. We can get that stuff on plenty of other websites. If we want to get irreverent, we can always comment on '63 Ramblers for sale in the Classics section or "concours restorations" with velour upholstery
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    Here are a couple of pictures that I took of Jason's work when he brought the chassis to Hershey in '10.
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