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Showing most liked content on 03/24/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    Thanks to Lamar Johnson (Earl) I am now the proud owner of another Buick. It's also a '40 and more road ready than my 76C. I do get the diversity thing as I have two vintage/special interest Fords as well. This one is a 4 door Super and has unique options like dust, cobwebs a mud dobber nest attached to the seat and the distinctive smell of "old car". It is not currently running but should be driveable after a fuel and brake system overhaul. Check this out (below)! It spent the last 25 or so years locked away in a warehouse after the PO left us for his eternal journey. His family didn't do anything with it for the lack of interest. It was actually a part of a horde of cars, others of which have Lamar licking his chops and crowding his barn. That's Lamars new slantback '38 in the background.
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    I'm a new member and this thread caught my eye. This picture was among my mother's old photos. I have no idea who they are. Sorry about the creases.
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    Riv: I get it. I wanted to leave the dust on the car as long as possible. I did wash the car tonight and that was a lot of time earned dust flowing down the drive. The car interior needs to be cleaned out so that I can reassemble parts that were removed. The interior door panels were removed and placed in the rear seat and the drivers window, vent window and vent deflector have been removed from the drivers door and are not with the car. There is also a piece of trim around the exterior of the drivers window that hasn't been found. Once cleaned, it will be easier to crawl around it to access parts that need attention. Plus it is pretty gross sitting in the car right now with all the dust.
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    Just thought I'd share a few pics of the before and after of the engine on my '63. When I bought the car, this was definitely the most lacking part of it. I added a Richie's Dragmaster valley pan, which I polished (a beautiful piece, but just pay the extra $40 for polishing, it takes HOURS to do it correctly), some Offenhauser valve covers, a Champion aluminum radiator, Derale fan, batwing aircleaner which I pinstriped (lots of modifying and customizing to get it to fit under the hood), then I removed most the components and painted and detailed just about everything. I replaced all the engine bolts with stainless allen bolts or studs with stainless cap screws. I also rerouted most the wiring and painted the firewalls. Still a little bit more to do, but the engine itself I'm happy with......
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    The REAL challenge was likely those greasy fries......................Bob.
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    As a former Civil Servant I will stick up for the unfriendly worker. Those folks usually have a job which is narrow in scope and individuality. They can do things within very limited authority. If one presents all paperwork exactly as they need it to do their job, they are grateful. They may not smile because of several reasons but if they do their job in one visit to their window, with no obvious lack of respect, I consider them to be nice, and thank them as I go on my happy way. We can all be sure that they have dealt with dozens of people who were either unprepared and or insisting that the worker bends the rules just this time. Situations which undoubtedly cause unnecessary stress.
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    This color is wild in the sun, and it is also a bit tricky to photograph, as it has a very high contrast from the bright spots to the shadows, which give it a very dynamic appearance. There is a lot going on in the Emberglo up-close!
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    Accessory option codes (Acc.) S = Power Seat Adjuster - 6 way (stamped on trim line because the upholstery shop needed to know it) B = Heater and defroster I = Easy Eye Glass (letter I not number 1) 2 = final assembly factory Your car is a convertible, so the body was built at Flint (G in the body number line) and shipped to South Gate, CA (plant code 2) for final assembly. Your serial number should start with 7C2, if final assembly was at Flint it would start with 7C1.
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    I send vacuum tanks out sometimes without payment.I send pics of the progress. no reply,no send .Never had a old car guy get me,good family
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    The convertible top colors are 1=Black 2=Tan 3=White 4=Blue 5=Green Leif in Sweden.
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    Last week my sister and her family came up from Tennessee to see Dad due to his health and condition. With work obligations they went back home while my sister has stayed and Dad asked me to make sure his Corvair is in running condition as she will be inheriting it. It is an amature restoration at best but with rebuilt engine, rebuilt aurtomatic transmission and new brakes, once I charged the battery up and the twin carbs got fuel, off she went. A few years ago he wanted the car painted and after some coaxing he convinced my son to help with sanding and do the painting there in his garage. After it idled down decided to take it out and exercise the brakes. There are a few items needing to be put back on yet but with a little time that can be accomplished. Since the car is mobile again decided to take advantage of the garage and clean up the car trailer (which barely fits! ). Sadly it is not wide enough to handle the Corvair without damage to the doors so my sister will have to look at other arrangements for transporting it back to Tennessee.
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    The Buick is a 44 model. Is there a phone number or contact info listed for Lee Wangerin on the roster?
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    This was in The Toronto Star a major newspaper in Canada . http://www.wheels.ca/news/good-investments-better-returns-than-a-savings-account-more-fun-than-an-rrsp/?utm_source=taboola&utm_medium=referral
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    Nothing like a flush firewall and chrome aluminum radiator... oh wait.
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    Have a Barrett Equipment Co. (St. Louis, MO) Drum Doktor. Before disc brakes there were these things called brake drums. Yes it's true and this machine is for resurfacing these selfsame items. Attachments, mounted to a rolling table, operational and in fairly good shape. This is for pick up, in that it is large. Located in the Frederick, MD area. How about $475.
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    Awesome, absolutely awesome!!!!!
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    One other possibility is the starter. I have had three GM vehicles (two Cadillacs and one Reatta so far) exhibit this when the starter is at end of life. Will start normally at cold engine, but when hot will be very slow to turn over and very nearly refuse to start. Not sure if there is any way to test for this short of checking the current draw of the starter when it exhibits hard starting. Something to keep in mind if other avenues don't pan out.
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    Unfortunately people that seem to leave them outside can't grasp that they are deteriorating until it's too late and the guy from the scrap yard is winching it on his rollback as it has degraded to no more than swiss cheese scrap metal. We can all quickly envision one we have in our memory that disintegrated right before our eyes over the years. (i'm going to fix that up one of these days) Well if you had just put it inside, it wouldn't need much fixing would it. This is the ultra classic case being parked right in front of the garage door/ bay that could house it. That's why my first priority is a big dry clean garage. My next will be to try to fill it. I decided a long time ago not to buy any car I can't keep inside.
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    From the number of Vettes on the market, seems many have changed hands several times and in the not so distant past. I only had mine a little over a year when it got fire damaged and I sold it. The guy I bought it from had it about 10 years i was told. Before that it was in a collection for 25. Mine went from NV to WA to NY then I sold it to FL. so many really get travelled around. Probably more miles in transport than on the road in the last 10 years.
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    There was a 58 Corvette in the same colors as your Dad's at the London Ontario Car show last weekend. Just completed a total restoration back to it's original color. A perfect match to your old one!
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    This stuff is all original (to the best of my knowledge) and came off my '65. All salvageable but I have no use for it and I'm trying to clear up some work space: 5 blade fan AC condenser Cigarette lighters Glove box map clip Washer bottle clip Tire iron Set of color coded vacuum lines Anyone wants any or all of this I'm just asking you PayPal or Venmo me the cost of shipping.
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    What a gorgeous ride,glad to see you got pictures before you blew the dust off.The last one I got like that,I was able to drive so I washed the windshield so I could see where I was going and there happened to be a show that weekend,drove in and had more attention than the shiney ones.It was a '65 Riviera that I'll be posting pictures of soon.
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    Nobody will buy that Wolverine at that price. There is a reason that 90 year old car never got restored back when a 1927-model car might have been wanted by someone. Too much work for a unpopular car and model year. It's too far gone for a stock restoration, and besides, nobody even wants a car like that now. You can't part it out as nobody needs most of what is still there. A streetrodder won't take it because it's too boxy/frumpy looking. So that only leaves the ratrodder who won't even bother painting or filling the roof insert back in. They will slap the shell onto a S-10 chassis and throw the rest away. But not unless the price is more like $800 USD. If it were a 32-34 style car, then the odds are better for someone wanting to tackle it. .
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    Lamar, I wasn't aware of a "lower level" Buick or what that even might be. Do you mean Chevy? Hey, I enjoyed helping you with your barn find. That was quite a stash and worthy of posting. See you tomorrow.
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    In case anyone doesn't know... shock absorbers must have air space in them to compress as the piston goes up and down. But the air can turn to foam on rough roads, causing the shock absorber to stop functioning. The answer is to put the air in a plastic bag which can compress and not mix with the oil. Some 40 years ago I cut a shock absorber apart and found one of these bags inside, took a few minutes to figure out what it was doing in there. Never knew they were called a Genetron bag.
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    We will be at Auburn also with the VW Camper van. Stop by.
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    two things on the radio. The fader switch must be in place for the speaker to work, and it has been my experience that sometime you only need a new speaker.
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    Oops. Sorry about that. Uh, er...I meant the first one we have done a frame up restoration on. Of course we remember yours. How have you been?
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    Repro's are available, last I knew. This is the accessory banjo wheel horn ring, thus the desirability. With the damage I wouldn't think it would go alot higher. I think the repro horn rings were around 450. I've seen complete recast wheels in the 1200 range with all the horn parts. Some for more. I had one in my 48 Fleetline aerosedan. It was missing the horn ring assembly, but fortunately I found what I thought was a core until I cleaned it up and polished the plastic. I did have to find a horn button though and that cost me around 150.00 for either an NOS or a repro. I'm still not sure which it was. I was happy to get it though as it really completed the wheel nicely.