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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/18/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Due to age, I'm cutting back and have decided to sell my 1939 Buick 41-C. Contact through the site, for my name, phone number and email addee. Trippe lights do not go with the car and are not for sale. No rust ever, Senior car 2004. New Top since these pictures. BCA #55
  2. 1 point
    Hello all, I'm 6 years into a body off half restoration of a series 50 4 door sedan. When I say half restoration I mean at this present time I wont be restoring the body or interior other then the body floor and dash. As you can see from the photos paint is in good enough condition for me to leave as is for now and so is the upholstery. It was originally ment to be just an engine recondition but the state of the engine bay was so filthy I decided to clean it up and repaint and then that lead to working on the suspension, brakes, rear end to the point where I ended to taking the body off to clean, repair and repaint the entire frame. My goal for the end results is to have everything mechanical and electrical completely restored to original factory specifications(as best I can). I thought I'd share the restoration from here so that my experience may help others with their restoration project and I'm hoping there are things I can learn from you. Thanks, Matt. The car as i bought it in 2009
  3. 1 point
    While out and stopping for a lunch break his past week what do I see on the way in? Never saw the owner(s) but have not noticed this one around before. I thought mine looked good in white but this one really caught my eye and appears to be in great condition too. (Maybe it's because I like red?)
  4. 1 point
    After this weekend things are returning to normal work wise and might be able to focus on some Buick efforts again. Meantime I had a moment to remove both the Vin tag and firewall tag from the parts car Limited. Not a difficult procedure using a drill and bit just big enough to drill out the rivets and what appears to be punched on? vin tag on the front drivers door post. In hind site I realised it was done on Remembrance Day which is somewhat fitting as this car was my first car and has that special meaning to me. Now to get a picture frame and mount them with a picture of the car when I used to drive her.
  5. 1 point
    Where I am up to, frame is painted and ready for reassembly of components. The engine stand, uni-strut channel and pipe were a quick way of putting together a makeshift rotisserie A couple of enclosed areas of the frame were rusted enough for a screw driver to go straight through the steel. It had a couple of inches of dirt inside. I opened it right up to clear out all the dirt and rust and found what i think was balls of wool also stuffed inside. I assume it was for sound deadening so i put it back. Also made repairs to both outer No 2 body mounts due to extensive rust
  6. 1 point
    Quick update! The exhaust parts were bought over the counter. Exhaust pipe, muffler, and tail pipe were all available, and along with the one gasket between the catalytic converter and exhaust pipe and a hefty discount from a rewards program I was packing the parts inside the car for just over $115.00 . This looked like a fairly simple job! All the bolts holding the system in place looked to be in good condition and like they would come out. So I was going to do it myself and argued the issue with myself for a few days while applying some PB Blaster on and off. The weather has changed here and with no heat in the garage, and for some other reasons, I decided to send the car up the road for the exhaust work, which turned out to be the right choice, for me. As it turned out, the bolts all did come out. But there is a separate bracket on the panhard bar that had to be loosened and pulled out of the way. Those bolts also came out but took a lot of torque to get them free. Not sure I could have got those out laying under the car and with my tool assortment. Then it turned out that the exhaust pipe was bent perfectly, but it was two inches short. This pipe extends in one piece from the converter, around the gas tank, up over the rear axle, through the gap formed by the body and that extra panhard bracket, and then makes a 90* turn to meet up with the transverse muffler. I don't have a welder, so it would have been virtually impossible for me to get that system on. As it was, the work took a little over two hours with removal of the old stuff, assembly, mockup, disassembly, welding and then reassembly of the new. But it is a very nice correction and assembly and the system is very quiet, with a slight Buick rumble at the tail pipe outlet. It brings a smile to my face to listen to it there because the 3300 does not have the counter balance shaft, so at an idle it sounds like a little V8 with a seriously altered camshaft. But under load it really runs smooth. The rear quarter glass was also installed this week. As it is I am expecting 1/2 from the muffler shop that caused the damage. I also have plans to pursue the 2nd half when ( if) I get the first half. Next up will be replacing the door seals. In heavy rains three of the doors are leaking and the seals look kinda odd. #1, the seals along the tops are separate pieces. Then they are cut on a 45 degree angle and on all the doors they do not meet the seals running down the pillars. I am not sure these are the original seals as I can't image the car being built this way. This seems to be the problem that's causing the odor in the car. What with the rains we are getting here, just about every other day, the rugs are getting wet and then it's never warm enough to really dry them out. I did try a temporary repair yesterday, as it will take me a while to get some new ones. Also, the alternator had to be replaced. On the last day of the old one it began spiking to 18 volts again, and then, just as suddenly, it dropped to a steady 12 volts. A replacement alternator appears to have fixed that issue and I have been really enjoying the car for the past few days. Go Buick!
  7. 1 point
    Perhaps a DARRACQ, spelled differently? We definitely need a couple of photos....
  8. 1 point
    68 My first car was a hand-me-down 62 Chevy Biscayne from my sister when she bought a 68 Skylark convertible (that I set the engine on fire, but that's story for another day). No oil filter on that model and after cleaning the thick layers of dirt and oil off the outside of the engine it leaked so bad I had to add a quart of oil every week. Thereafter I rarely needed to change the oil, since it was self changing. But, every few months I'd pull the valve cover and get in there with a putty knife. When I went off to Fort Ord in 71, my Father sold it for what my sister had paid for it used, five years before I got it. Still ran good thanks to that self flushing oil system. ? Paul
  9. 1 point
    Without the front clip, the model is looking far away from completion. To change this look dramatically, I just had to add the hood and both front fenders. To add some stability, the lower air deflector was installed. I did know that it was a tight fit around the radiator cradle and frame; this time I had to use some persuasion to get it in place. Later I understood why: on the sides, it must go under the fender construction; I managed to put it on top of that lip! I saw that when I wanted to install the screws at the flange: they were not at all aligned. Fortunately, with some more persuasion, the air deflector came out. Once correctly guided, it went in place without problem; I just had to repair the black paint which was damaged during the wrong installation process. The exhaust tubes are also installed; could I now install the grille and front bumper? No, I must first do the missing hoses for the air conditioning system. The fresh air tube for the air cleaner was done since a long time; unfortunately, it’s too short! It will not takes weeks or months to do another one; I just don’t understand why I did not it longer than necessary and cut the excess…
  10. 1 point
    My 1929 PI RR had the engine taken apart in 1953. I bought it in about 1978. When I cleaned out the sump, I found a thoroughly oil-soaked dead rat...
  11. 1 point
    There are so many factors, that play into all this. I have lived in Califunny since I was five months old (proud to say I am not a native Califunnion). Grew up mostly in the suburbs of the South San Francisco Bay Area, and partly in the farming lands of the central valley. Most of my adult life in the outer "burbs" near Livermore, and the past fifteen years in heavy tree areas of the country. The house we have been in for the past thirteen years cannot hardly be seen on Google Earth because the trees here are so thick. And I like it that way. The politics are strange. Every few years, we are threatened with insurance cancellations, and requirements to cut down ALL trees within some distance from the house (I have nearly 200 trees on my one little acre!). But i have seen more than a few fires around here. MOST, nearly all, serious destructive fires are not in the heavy trees. They are in heavy grass areas or brush areas with fifteen or less trees per acre. It is the grass and brush that spreads fire so fast! And, yes, manzanita is a torch waiting to be lit! There is no manzanita on my acre. A few years ago, a favorite area about 40 miles from home suffered a serious fire in a tree area. About a month after the fire, we drove up to look around at the damage. It was incredible. I don't recall the acreage, but the fire had climbed up a hill, jumped a two lane road, and covered about a mile along the road. About eighty percent of the burned area, the grass was not touched. No homes destroyed. Most of the fire was about thirty feet above the ground. It went from tree to tree, flames leaping into the sky (I saw the news videos). But nearly everything on the ground survived. Plenty of blame to go around. A lot of things are being done wrong. And that goes for society in general these days. A lot of things need to be looked at, and many things considered carefully. And the politicians need to quit playing the "this year correctness" games and be held accountable for bad decisions they make.
  12. 1 point
    A major factor in tree growth is water. The areas of California that feature scrub are too dry for trees to grow. It's not just a matter of mowing down the scrub and planting trees. you would also have to irrigate anywhere you expected the trees to survive. Essentially impossible, California is running out of water to irrigate cropland let alone forest. Here in coastal British Columbia, several hundred miles North of California we have lots of water. Greg
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    Back from lunch over in the next county. The leaves came down big time last week. And there appears to be a good flow off the Erie Canal spillway. 30 degrees and light flakes. Same spot four weeks ago when the trees weren't nakid.
  15. 1 point
    Wednesday went and picked up Maja from school. She walked out and found me but when she go into the car her comment was "I thought I recognized that car but wasn't sure". Come on, how many 1960 Buicks are at school picking up kids.
  16. 1 point
    The reports are the hospital burned. Over 2000 structures lost in Paradise alone and death toll is going up. Fire was burning 8 football fields a minute. Driving an old car thru a fire like that would not be my choice, a modern car with injection has a better chance than carb cars. You can roll up windows and put on air recirculating. A guy I know left a totally restored 51 pickup in favor of his wife’s modem car. Drove thru flames on both sides of the road. The car was scorched on both sides when they arrived at a shelter. He said they started to pack to leave and could not see the fire only smoke from over a good size hill. 10-15 minutes his back yard was ablaze and they left, leaving the pickup full of what they thought was important. The road literally exploded with fire for as far as he could see in seconds. He said at that point only their lives mattered. Dave S
  17. 1 point
    I don't think the people in Calf. aren't worried about old cars... any clue what they are worried about??
  18. 1 point
    37 of us down on Long Island drove their Buicks to the chapter fall back friendship meet at Arnold Buick go to https://www.libuickclub.org/other-club-outings-2016/ that should show you a bunch of great Buick pics from Nov 4 check these out for a preview, mine is the 57, great day for a show!
  19. 1 point
  20. 1 point
    Hi all, A late entry from the New South Wales Buick Club Concours day earlier this year, better late than never I suppose. there are a few Holden built Buicks in there if you look closely. I will add a few more in the next post Please enjoy Paul
  21. 1 point
    It wasn't too far on Sunday but enough to keep the Brakes in good working condition. (Ya that was my excuse)
  22. 1 point
    With dinner over I had to bring the Cougar back to where the Special is parked otherwise too many cars in the driveway at home with us all coming and going. Naturally with the garage door open I heard the Special whispering to me to go for a ride. Decided to try and start her as it has been awhile and with a few cranks of the starter away she went. I have not taken the water pump off yet so checked the level and only had to add a quart so put the cap on not tightened and backed her out. Just could not resist the temptation so decided a ride back home was going to satisfy the urge and do no harm. Prior to this busy work schedule I had been patiently touching up some spots with various fine tipped paint brushes and with the early evening light... the effort appears OK but know it will be picked out under close scrutiny at the car shows, but that's OK too. It's mine, it's paid for and I'm driving her. It was a fun five hour diversion for a Sunday.
  23. 1 point
    Why would you think that you don't need a sway control bar? A sway control is the best $65 you can spend if you plan on towing any distance at highway speeds on the interstates.
  24. 1 point
    Step - By - Step front brake installation: Install the wheel cylinders to the backing plates Attach the brake hose to the wheel cylinder Slide the backing plate into position and run in the four bolts Slide the felt dust shield over the four bolts Place the felt retainers in position over the felt and over the four bolts. Upper bolts use lock washers, lower bolts have castellated nuts and cotter pins. Install the five screws and lock washers that hold the baffle in position over the felt Baffle screwed in to positon Install the plungers into the wheel cylinders and push the retainer pins through the back of the plate. Prepare the adjusters with a little oil and a smear of grease over the threads and over the nipple end Install the bottom spring. Criss-Cross the shoes and fit the adjuster into position. Be sure the adjusting wheel is at the right side so it aligns with the adjuster opening. Shoes with adjuster installed ready to be installed in the backing plate Place shoes into position so the slots in the plungers fit in nicely and the retainer pins come through the holes Install the spring loaded keepers. Mine had a flatter base, then the spring, then the outer keeper has to be depressed and turned 90 degrees to lock in place Install the remaining three brake springs Internal brake parts are all assembled Clip the brake hose to the chassis support Hold the hose steady with a 5/8 wrench while tightening up the brake lines. Slide the inner bearing race into position Smear a light coating of grease over the bearing surface Grease the inner hub bearing Looking Good!! Slide the brake drum into position. The inner surfaces were sanded with a 320 then a 600 grit to smooth out the braking surface. Massage that grease into the outer bearing Insert the outer bearing into position Insert the outer bearing race into position Install the keyed flat washer and the large castellated nut. Remember, it is a left hand thread on the drivers side. Adjust so the wheel turns freely but there is no movement when you push on the top and bottom. There should be no "rocking" of the drum Once satisfied that the drum revolves freely, line up the cotter key holes Key it and cap it! Tightened all brake lines, installed the brass block with a retainer clip, installed the brake light switch, filled the master cylinder and began to bleed the brakes. Doing one wheel at a time, starting with the left rear, I pumped the pedal until all the air was out. Then held the pedal down while the bleeder valve was closed. I added more brake fluid to the master cylinder before we started the next wheel. Did all four wheels, checked for leaks at every connection point. tightened a couple. I have no leaks now and a nice pedal. All in all a really nice day! fin A recent post suggested a front end alignment. I totally agree. It's on the list once she's roadworthy. Thanks guys and have a good night.
  25. 1 point
    Right side of engine block components: Cleaned up and installed the distributor. Then installed the rubber boots at the plug end and ran all eight wires through the harness. Tried to line them up nice and neat Labeled all the wires 1 - 8, then labeled the distributor 1-8 in the proper firing order. Made a preliminary cut, then a final cut, installed the rubber boot, then the brass connector. Once all eight wires were installed, then came the coil, a new wire between the coil and the distributor, and the main coil wire. Installed the fuel pump and the motor is starting to look like it should! Coming together nicely!