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Showing content with the highest reputation on 09/22/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Just a couple of shots, first, why would anyone want an electric vehicle? This would have been a great question to ask about petrol vehicles at the very early part of the twentieth century. Second, about the electricity grid, well technology is changing very quickly. Indiana has dropped to 8th for coal production. As the grid continues to diversify there will be more opportunities for smaller production facilities, even home production because of better distribution control and affordable equipment. We are at a cusp like the one that occurred in the late nineteenth century and early twentieth. It is indeed a great time to be alive. As for Tesla, its namesake, a not so poor immigrant who with the help of Westinghouse took on Edison, harnessed the power of Niagara Falls, lit the 1893 World's Fair in Chicago (even though Edison refused to sell them any bulbs) and won the, "Battle of the Currents" which is why we now have an electric grid based upon AC which can be transmitted over long distances instead of the localized DC power stations Edison championed. History is repeating itself only a bit different. While I cannot afford a Tesla automobile I damn sure support what they are doing.
  2. 2 points
    Here's an old trick for the next time you install a thermostat. Drill a 1/16th inch hole in the thermostat body. That will allow air to escape as it eventually works its way to the top of the water jacket. Keep your overflow tank filled to the appropriate marks and youll be fine.
  3. 2 points
    Gents, Moving toward a solution I replaced thermostatic expansion valve, evaporator with new, had all the hoses rebuilt with triple barrier walls for 134a, had the another STV rebuilt, drained the compressor many times with mineral oil until the oil drained clear, replaced mineral oil ( 314ml ) in compressor. Put in a new drier. Flushed all the new lines and evaporator, flushed the condenser with CoolPro. I might say pulling the evaporator cabinet and putting the evaporator cabinet back and connecting hoses became almost second nature after the 16 hours or so. Nonetheless, no surprise when the system didn't hold a vacuum. Ill revisit the project and work on finding and fixing the leaks. The joints under the dash were quite difficult to reach and tighten. I'll want to spend another 2-3 days finding the leaks, then another 2-3 days sealing the leaks. I''ll probably have this AC ready for next season, maybe. Red Riviera Bob
  4. 2 points
    @brasscarguy How many electric cars has MB and Jaguar have built? Where will they get the batteries? If Tesla did not make electric cars, the others would be stalling for decades more.
  5. 2 points
    Hey Brasscarguy, By any chance do you loan out your crystal ball? seems like you are pretty certain about the future, I just need it for a few games this Weekend, I will give you 10% if it is certain as you make it seem , even predicting the resale market! pretty darn good I just want it for three games, and I will never have to ask you again, maybe some people refuse to buy foreign cars.... just sayin
  6. 2 points
    Nope, Usually by necessity farmers would take out the back seats/ tub and build a truck body bed or take something from an old farm wagon. Buick made trucks on and off from 1908 to 1923 and all Buick trucks were 4 cylinder except the model 2-A from 1910 and an earlier "delivery car" also placed on a Model F chassis. If you see a "Buick truck" with a 6 cylinder engine, it is a converted car.
  7. 1 point
    Being a bored nerd I watch C-span often. A recent broadcast was the congressional debate on going to E90 fuel as the only fuel to be produced in the future. Reason? The fuel would allow for higher compression engines that would allow for better fuel economy at lowest development cost to auto manufacturers. Also rallying for it was the corn farmers who see a windfall profit for thei products. Several testimonies were presented on the negative effect of having just one fuel choice that is not compatible with most all vehicles on the road. Also cited was the failure of E85 flex fuel to catch on with consumers even though there are vehicles currently on the road that are equipped to use the fuel. We can only hope the anti E90 group is winning.
  8. 1 point
    It is possible, but I doubt it because of the cost of building a body and then removing it would not make sense. If anything, the car was probably converted by the first or second owner. To add a truck body to a 1915 Buick chassis at time of manufacture was $75.00. I would suspect that a car body cost a lot more.
  9. 1 point
    Ok, so if the distributor is suspect try a vac guage as Ben suggested; you are aiming for a steady 18 - 20 inches at idle to start with, move the distributor back or forth to achieve this. If you can get a steady idle reading then take the revs up and down and watch for steady vac changes, hesitation or erratic readings will need investigating, plenty of good info for deciphering faults on the net. I find the vac guage a far more useful tool in tuning than religious adherance to timing marks etc. with changes in fuel and so on, the original settings aren't necessarily the best for our engines anymore.
  10. 1 point
    Having been in the automotive business for nearly 50 years I have a bit of an insite, you know the old adage if its to good to be true it prolly is.. However the most telling signs are as follows. Tesla has no dealers they are all company stores, therefore all personnel are company employees. As advertised on line their techs are abandoning the sinking ship . Hardly a day goes by that we don't get an on line listing for Tesla techs looking for work. That is a very basic premise of financial troubles. Next the Federal government is now involved in a congressional investigation regarding stock manipulation. In fact check it out there are 2 investigations regarding financial practices on going. So adding all those things together plus the constant delays in production plus the fact that the "trades" are chattering about vendors being forced to negotiate lower prices or not get paid for the monies already owed, just adds yet another nail in the coffin. Not an investment I would be making in this climate. Oh just another thought the stock has dropped damn near thru the floor from its overinflated highs a while back. just an old mans opinion, brasscarguy
  11. 1 point
    I checked today with a Washington State license agency and Washington State has a very dim view of this type of Florida Title. In fact the DOL is taking a long hard look at these phony paper shuffling title services. They stopped those Alabama title guys a few years back. In Washington State if you have an assembled car, or a car without a title, you can apply for a bonded title, For a minimal cost you can have the car inspected by the state patrol then they apply a vin number decal to the car. You can take the paperwork to a license agency and get plates and a "bonded" title. This allows you to license and drive the car. After 3 years you can apply for a regular title. You can sell the car in the State of Washington but can not sell it out of state until the 3 years is up. Cost is about $100.00 depending on the value of the car. This is way cheaper than the title guys that may or may not get you a Washington title. I would rather use the real deal and know you are going legal. just sayin' brasscarguy
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    I found that to be incorrect, if the paperwork is from outside the State of Florida the vehicle must have a VIN verification. I have been going through this for the past several years and the cars are already registered to me but in NYS
  14. 1 point
    I notice generic electic vehicle commercials running in prime time. The fine print mentions VW. Till now tesla was little more than a pimple on the butt of the major makers. If the majors put on a full court press in electrics i,m guessing tesla will end up being a niche player or road kill........bob
  15. 1 point
    Everyine the PMd me, I've jotted down your needs. I'm going to look at the car this weekend and get some photos of specifics. I'll try to feel out prices too.
  16. 1 point
    Try Rare Parts. http://rareparts.com/
  17. 1 point
    optical illusion perhaps but your 41 seems to be riding low...attached is one I owned years ago to view for comparison
  18. 1 point
    Fortunately, I did not do mine with resale in mind. I did it to drive. I do. I did it to enjoy. I do. We often tell "new" folks to walk away if they are intending making money on a restoration. Rightly so. Couple years back, a daughter bought a NEW pickup. I expect if she liquidated it today, her losses would be at least half of what I have spent on my Buick. Just saying.
  19. 1 point
    For taillamp Tuesday I cannot wait, it is raining cats and dogs in Southern Ontario, the remnants of Hurricane Florence. I've painted the rear parts for my 1915 McLaughlin touring car and this is the first fitting. Next my local shoemaker will duplicate the leather belts and the paint will get polished this winter. The front fenders are in final epoxy primer and the headlamp rims are still at the platers. So far I've painted everything in my home workshop, not the best painter except to say I have time to work out the details and I make up for my failings by employing the best tools and materials available. Regards, Gary
  20. 1 point
    I'll see if I can: 1. Timing never goes less than base advance. So if you have it set to 6 degrees BTDC, that is the minimum you will see. 2. Centrifugal advance is solely tied to RPM. The springs are supposed to roughly follow the curve (solid lower line) in the shop manual but if they are original they probably do not. You can plot a curve with a timing light with the delay knob on it. Start with zero delay and make sure RPM is 450 or below and set it to the mark. Then advance by 100 or 200 RPM increments with the idle setting screw and see how many degrees of delay it takes to bring the mark back to the line. Compare to the shop manual and then send your unit out to be recurved! 3. Vacuum advance is additive to the centrifugal advance, so total timing advance is base + centrifugal + vacuum. The amount of vacuum applied to the advance depends on throttle position and RPM. Keep in mind the ports are above the throttle plates (relative to the manifold) so very little if any vac advance is applied at closed throttle and low RPM. If at high RPM though, taking your foot off the gas will result in the plates being cracked slightly so there will be some vac advance in play. The amount of vac advance as shown on the graph (upper dotted line) is kind of notional since the throttle position is not part of the graph, in fact the graph should say that the amount shown is max possible at the given RPM. My 1940 manual says at part throttle which agrees. Hope this muddied things up nicely! Cheers, Dave
  21. 1 point
    Thanks for all the input everyone! lump, I really like that idea! For a classy car like my Riviera, I now realize that a stock, sleeper would sound better than some punky Honda ricer kinda sound. It saves a few bucks too that i could put in a second project
  22. 1 point
    I purchased this 1941 Buick Special 44 Business Coupe just 9 days ago and I'm very excited about it. This is my 1st Buick, and it is replacing my 1948 Chevy Fleetline Aerosedan (I'm a Chevy guy). The car was imported to Australia in 1989 after being purchased in Waco, TX by a gentleman who now lives in Ballarat, Victoria (Australia). The car has been restored superbly (body, paint & interior only it appears), but looks to be a very good car. The doors & trunk close beautifully and the gaps are very good. It has been in storage for nearly 11 years after the previous owner left it to his then 15yo (now 26yo) grandson who has not driven it once. To say I'm over the moon is an understatement. It is currently at my mechanic's getting a complete brake overhaul and the waterpump rebuilt. It will also be lowered (I like my cars low). Can anybody tell me what the color is? The Body Tag reads 'PAINT No 570' which is Ludington Green, but various pages on the internet suggest that to be a much darker green. Perhaps my car is a non-1941 color. Anyway, I'm in love with it's color - original or not. BUCK MOTOR DIVISION GENERAL MOTORS CORPORATION FLINT. MICH 1941 MOD. 44 STYLE No 41-4227B BODY No 237 TRIM No 900 PAINT No 570 TOP ACC. BODY BY FISHER the attached photos are before I got it home to South Australia (500 miles from Melbourne where I purchased it from and still with Victorian license plates). The South Australian plates will read 'STR-808' (do you get it?). I have much to learn about these cars and would appreciate very much any information. I believe this model to have a 'Chevrolet' body.
  23. 1 point
    For every pound of pressure exerted on the coolant in the system, the static boiling point of the coolant is raised by approximately 3° F . So with the stock 7# cap it will not boil until 233° F. A little higher with some coolant. 245° F with the 13# cap used on A/C cars like mine. On the early nails some detonation will start around 220° F due to higher cylinder head temps. Boil over can happen at lower temps if there is a hot spot on one of the heads: no warning before the sick 'chugga-chugga' unstoppable convulsion.
  24. 1 point
    But the nut behind the wheel is whitworth.
  25. 1 point
    <div class="ubbcode-block"><div class="ubbcode-header">Originally Posted By: 57plymouth</div><div class="ubbcode-body">The seller is a liar. </div></div> I might say he could be mis-informed, but to come out and call him a liar without knowing im may be a bit too strong.