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Showing most liked content on 06/29/2017 in all areas

  1. 6 likes
    I consider myself as experienced. I have a 1929 Minerva with a 6 cylinder, 6 liter sleeve valve engine. I have been thru it. Quite a piece of engineering! 2 crankshafts, 18 connecting rods, 7 oil pumps, 6 cylinder heads. It has hemi heads and hemi pistons. It should be called a "Fireball Six" The more they run the better they get, as the horsepower increases with the formation of carbon in the cylinders ! What questions do you have? I'll try to help.
  2. 4 likes
    Pulled the booster. Cracked it open to find a sea of old brake fluid. Some build up of junk. I cleaned all with soapy water. Reinstalled. Pedal felt totally different. Returned to resting position without issue. Drove the Buick 20 miles in stop and traffic/traffic lights etc. Vast improvement in braking. Made several very hard test stops. Performed flawlessly. I arrived back to my garage and parked just outside so I could clean up. Once done, started the car to put in the garage. Stop and put it in park. Press the pedal a few more times and she locked. This time no release. I cracked the line and pulled the vacuum source. Brakes released. Drove with no vacuum. Brakes did not lock. Looks like the booster is heading to Booster Dewey. In the mean time I have a cool 54 Buick cee-dan I can drive until my booster is returned.
  3. 4 likes
  4. 3 likes
    https://billings.craigslist.org/cto/6195468148.html This is a great deal, even without the drivetrain.
  5. 3 likes
    I'm dead if I get CAUGHT lookin...😳
  6. 3 likes
    The 1940 Limited sold for $3000 but not to me. The 1968 LeSabre convertible sold for $750, but not to me. The 2 72 Boattails took off and sold to the same seller - not me - the Silver one went for I think $2000 + The Gold one went for $1000 plus. The 48 Super sold for $10,000. In my opinion, lots of stupid money changed hands. Which left no money at the end, where I picked up the 69 Triple Black Electra convertible for $500.
  7. 3 likes
    I understand Gary's painting the hardware. Some of the bolts on my restoration started to rust before I got the car halfway together. It may not be totally original, but it's better than ugly rust streaks - unless you intend to remove the bolts every few months and polish them.
  8. 2 likes
    With that cleared up, I can say that running synthetic oil will NOT harm the engine or its sensors. My Reatta 3800 has been on synthetic since DAY 1! If you are not getting the SES (service engine soon) light on the dash, then any codes that are setting are NOT drivability related (and some SES setting codes won't impact drivability to any great extent). When we discuss diagnostics, we ARE talking about the codes but it is up to YOU or your mechanic to sort out what to do. Based on the questions you have asked, I am assuming that you don't own a '90 Reatta/Riv Final Edition field service manual. GET ONE! You can't begin to maintain the Reatta without the FSM. Yes, this site is a wealth of information, but the site is not a substitute for looking up information in the FSM. The FSM is NOT a DIY guide but the troubleshooting and explanations that it contains are invaluable. In thinking back over conditions with symptoms even remotely similar to what you are describing, the only thing in my experience that was transmission related was a blown out vacuum modulator valve that was sucking transmission fluid out at just low enough rate to not cause smoke and once the fluid level got low enough, the downshift to 2nd gear on deceleration became VERY abrupt, but that is not really close to what you are describing. Regardless, I would check the vacuum modulator to ensure that it is working and will hold a vacuum properly. If you replaced it, understand that all the new ones have to be adjusted to find the sweet spot for the shift points (they come set in the middle of the their range). There is a small set screw in the end of the vacuum connection. All the way counterclockwise softens the shifts (more slippage) and all the way clockwise produces harder shifts (less slippage). On a high milage tranny, LESS slippage is preferable as you are typically on borrowed time anyway.
  9. 2 likes
    Just got this in the mail today. A power window motor for the passenger's side. Compliments of Ebay.Got it really cheap and it works. I really felt the need to get an extra one because one of my motors, I feel, will end up burning out on me. So now I have 6 motors altogether. 3 passenger and 3 driver's side motors. A backup for each side.
  10. 2 likes
    Yes but be very carful as this is pot metal or zinc as some call it. Use denatured alcohol and a Qtip to swab out the glass and reservoir. Restoration supply and classic & exotic supply also has the fluid for it. Be very carful when taking the line off as not to crimp it. Follow it back to the tank on the right side of the car to see if it's not broken in to. I can help with more questions if you have them. Lanny
  11. 2 likes
    IMO, a waste of money. There are better things to use on old engines.
  12. 2 likes
    Hooray............The 33 Chevy is back together and everything works good. It was a learning experience and I appreciate all of the help everyone gave in answer to my questions. Dennis Jones
  13. 2 likes
    The grilles are different and there is a bump on the sides of the 1960. Here is a 1960....
  14. 2 likes
    Originally posted in "prewar" but didn't want to lose the info: Looking for data on bolt and body mounting pad requirements. Note, the convertible used reinforced rubber, which is different that the hardtop cars. My project is missing most of the body mounting pads and the bolts. Bolts and pads that are in place are incorrect. The bolts are a 7/16 x 14. The lengths may vary; does anyone have bolt lengths? What grade are these bolts? What is their finish: galvanized, phosphate, painted? According to parts books for other GM makes, the bolts are Grade 8 with a phosphate finish. I've not been able to confirm this with knowledgable Buick restorers. The pads for the convertible body are reinforced rubber. What is the correct thickness. Steel shims would have been used for body alignment. I've found the pads to be approximately 7/16s to 1/2-inches thick. I'm going to use a modern neoprene material. (http://www.jvi-inc.com/index.cfm/products/bearing-shims/Newlon-Neoprene) If the car ever gets judged an alert judge would notice that the reinforcing fibers weren't visible on the cut edge of the pad. There goes 100 points! What is the configuration of the mount? From the top, bolt head, flat washer, body, reinforced rubber, shim as required, frame, reinforced rubber, flat washer, lock washer, nut? The shop manual describes the hard top cars as having the isolators (rubber pads) while the convertibles had the reinforced rubber pads. Interestingly, it appears that the body would be fully aligned using shims where necessary, then the body mounting bolts snugged finger tight then turned two complete turns only. I also understand that the washers are thicker than fender washers.
  15. 2 likes
    Hello from Belgium... I am Christophe born in 1967. We love to cruise to classic car & custom car shows in Belgium & Northern France We own a 1973 Ford Capri GT V6 with a 1967 Otto Kiss Hearse Trailer (German Import) Als a 1980 Buick Electra Estate Wagon 350CI (US Import, second owner) Greetings from Belgium Christophe
  16. 1 like
    For Sale: A Pair of 1932 Dodge Front Spindles, bare, in very good condition, minor flaws, but No unusual wear or scratches. No casting numbers visible, 6 inches long from the bolt plate. $125. Pair. Also have a matching pair of Cowl Vent Doors and mechanisms, I have oiled them up and both work fine. $75. for both plus shipping. These need a new home, I never found a 32 Dodge to build or restore. bbhmcneil@msn.com, or phone 303 795 0203 in Colorado. Thanks.
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  19. 1 like
    Is the engine and transmission installed?
  20. 1 like
    Booster Dewey will likely offer you an exchange but they will also rebuild yours. I recall they also offer a "show quality" refinish. I wish the cleaning would have worked for you but glad you found that out safely.
  21. 1 like
    6-3-2-5-4-1 with #6 farthest away from you on an in line Delco set up.
  22. 1 like
    I've had the same problem since the last upgrade.
  23. 1 like
    Pennsylvania has Denver, East Berlin, and even Venus and Mars! I hope your friends find the Bronco they seek. I think if they expanded their list and gave more notice, they'd be much more likely to get something interesting. Let us know, Victoria, how it goes.
  24. 1 like
    Mike, no rear bracket? How sturdy is it? Does it bounce?
  25. 1 like
    Happy me, happy car, happier me.
  26. 1 like
    You'd better get some mirrored sunglasses....
  27. 1 like
    I started with the holes in the timing gear. These are to lighten it, the goal being to get rid of about half of the weight without weakening the gear. I started with my usual drawing to work out the mathematical details. These are actually 63/64" holes and 1/2" holes arranged in two circles. I put the test gear in the milling machine and attached it to the rotary table with the clamps I made last week. I'm not really thrilled with these but they will work for this job. The holes are spaced 30 degrees apart and arranged so that the outside edge will be about 1/32 inside the relief when I mill it. There are 3 gears, so just drilling the center holes took some time. Tomorrow I'll drill the center holes for the inner circle and start actually making the holes. I was going to do some of this in the mill but I've since decided it will be a bit more foolproof if I do it in the drill press. These center holes will allow me to locate the drill perfectly.
  28. 1 like
    Scroll through the views- http://www.rockauto.com/en/moreinfo.php?pk=1187486&cc=1019911&jsn=460
  29. 1 like
    I'm almost certain you have centrifugal advance (2 weights plus return springs), below the points plate. Of course, no vacuum advance at that time. The grease cups providing lube have the downside of having the grease in that chamber harden over time and restrict the movement of the weights.
  30. 1 like
    1-3-5 in front 2-4-6 in back left to right as you face the engine. You can't adjust the modulator if you don't have an aftermarket one.
  31. 1 like
    You should do like I did, buy her a convertible. She wants to drive it all the time and I want to keep the miles off. Only thing she agreed to, was our German Shepherd is welcome in any of our other cars [The Red, The Black, or the Enclave] but not the 'vert as she could ruin the seats with her claws. Besides when you redo the T-Bird she runs the risk of that car not always being dependable either.
  32. 1 like
    With 4.75 gears, you're about out of string at 40 mph, just as I was in my 1925 S80 with 4.88s. Have you checked the distributor weights for freedom to advance (move), not constricted by hardened grease? Condition of weight return springs?
  33. 1 like
    More, including the condenser and side to side comparison of the bracket with factory bracket beside. If you have an original 401 bracket, you can use that by expanding the holes to fit a Sanden style compressor. Apparently, this customer got even colder air than my previous pic of my IR gun.
  34. 1 like
    Here are the pics of my bracket based on a factory bracket. Much like the original, belt tension is achieved by adjusting the generator. I don't have pics of my setup cuz my car is up in the air (on a lift), and I can't get to it with a ladder. I will try and get a pic soon. Honestly, I can't believe I don't have one pic in my phone of my setup....
  35. 1 like
    Eric, This is a page from a 1965 Buick sales brochure. They come up on eBay pretty often - in fact there is one right now. Link to item is http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-1965-BUICK-FULL-LINE-CAR-SALES-BROCHURE-/263060301330?hash=item3d3f9da612:g:zzgAAOSwzgBYzgEQ&vxp=mtr. Good luck!
  36. 1 like
    David and Rod W, I have drawn full size drawings of all the wood in the body of a 1925 Buick Standard Touring. Good for reference for your Master or 1924 6 cylinder, especially the 2 wood pieces behind the rear doors. You can view them as PDF, print small copies, or take them to an office supply store that has a large format printer and get the full size drawings made. Some drawings have to be taped together once printed due to the length of the parts. An example of the rear wheel arch wood is at the very bottom of this post. The problem is that these are large files, so I would either need to send you a USB drive, or have someone walk me thru how to post these on the cloud so people can access them easily. There are 22 files and each is 5 to 10 MB. So I would need a place that would take 250 to 450 MB, preferably a free site. I also have photos of all the wood pieces, so more space needed as they are about 3 MB each. I may be able to break them up and post in separate forum postings, as they allow 125 MB per post. This may be my best solution. Notice that the Standard Toneau area is similar but different than your car. Also, do not glue all this together and then expect to slip the metal tub over the back. I am not sure how they originally glued all this together, but I was able to install it, if I kept the wood in 3 pieces. The base, the back, and the upper surround. See the photo with the tub shown. Hugh Here is an attempt at posting the rear wheel arches and the wood over the rear axle PDF. HPSC0144 rear wheel arches.pdf HPSC0219 LT over rear axle.pdf
  37. 1 like
    Note: I can deliver this sign FREE of charge to the BCA national meet in Brookfield, WI. This is a lighted BUICK Tri-Shield logo sign. It is a genuine BUICK dealership sign. of course. It's in good condition and displays well. This sign appears never to have been displayed outside. It was likely used inside the dealer’s showroom, as an interior advertising piece. It has a quality, three-dimensional construction.. This lighted BUICK sign is a good size for use in your man cave or shop. It measures 26” by 22”. t’s not overpowering in size, and it's not too heavy to easily mount. I believe this logo “look” was introduced by BUICK in the mid- to later-1980’s. The sign is illuminated from inside by cool, florescent lighting. It works well, and looks quite striking, when lit up.. Please disregard the reflections you see in the sign in the second photo. There are some smaller marks here and there on the front, that might be hard to see in the photos. Also, please note a few marks in the blue part of the logo. However, there isn't anything major, in my opinion, that detracts from the sign...especially once it's mounted on the wall. The price is $225, plus the shipping. Thanks for looking. John
  38. 1 like
    The standard transmissions are the same as used in the first couple years of the Chevy Vega. Interchangeable. I had a number of GT's in my younger years. Maybe around 6-8. Good fun when I was smaller and more agile. Now very small relative to the trucks that I drive.