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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/15/2018 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Still holding to the couple of hours a day routine though it is sometimes hard to see the progress. I got two of the MGA tires mounted on the newly restored wheels and put those on the rear so the car is back off the jack stands! These are just for rolling the car around and I'll be replacing all the tires with new tires when I'm done. There were several miscellaneous pieces that didn't get painted that I now need, mainly the radiator. I got those painted and started getting those items on the car. I got the crankshaft back and have started assembling the engine. I turned a 2 hour job into 6 hours but the end results was it was done correctly. I had to make some little fixtures to hold the grudgeon pin in a vise (while in the piston) so I could tighten the bolt on the rod without bending the rod (or scratching the piston). My ring compressor tool was just a little too big so I had to run out and get a smaller one. Once I finally got the pistons and rods in and connected to the crankshaft it proved difficult to turn over. I was worried about that so I tore it all back apart and measured all the bearings again one by one. As physics would have it... they all still measured 0.001" like they did when I checked them before I put it together. I think the issue was a combination of the assembly lube I'm using, very thick and tacky, and the 0.001" fit on the connecting rods. So with the thicker lubricant, 1 thou bearing clearance and new rings it was just a little tighter than I'm used to feeling. I'll get the cotter pins in, wire the nuts on the main bearings and then start on the rest of the engine. I've laid everything out and I should be able to make some better progress tomorrow.
  2. 3 points
    Just completed 4 days of touring on the HCCA Portland Group Annual Tour in John Day OR. This was a long hot hill climbing tour that required side of the road fixes and adding lots of water.
  3. 2 points
    Down at the old Bull Durham Tobacco warehouses (see neon sign) for a Sam Cooke tribute performer
  4. 2 points
    You obviously don't understand how I work at my shop. $400.00 - Chassis complete with motor, transmission, and drive train (from a 1990 Ford Ranger I bought a while back for $400). The truck runs fine too. $100.00 - Welding supplies to modify the frame to fit the '54 Chevy body. $100.00 - Used sheet metal to repair the '54 Chevy body. $90.00 - Three gallons of Majic Equipment paint from Tractor Supply. 1gal Primer, 2-gallons of color for nice two-tone paint job. $30 a gal. $200.00 - Material to sew up a new interior. $25.00 - Rustoleum Chrome paint to emulate the $10k Chrome job. $400.00 - 4 new cheap tires. $185.00 - new brake shoes, brake lines, cylinder rebuild kits, etc. TOTAL $1,500.00 And here's the finished product: Oh wait. I forgot to add,.... $998,648,237,110,694.00 - labor. But hey, only $1,500 in parts.
  5. 2 points
    I love this car! Totally unprepared, we jumped in at 10:00 last night and blasted to an event more than 60 miles away (our newly acquired 1935 Lincoln left us stranded and we needed a back-up). Did a parade in the morning, showed the car in the afternoon, then hammered home at 60 MPH in 94-degree heat without issue. Car ran rock-steady at 170-175 degrees, never stuttered or faltered, and remained eminently composed throughout. So comfortable and quiet, in fact, that Melanie napped most of the way and reports that the rear shocks make a significant difference in the way it rides (which was already pretty impressive). Smooth, fast, reliable. Old cars aren't supposed to be this good. Lincoln left us stranded just as the sun was setting Bulletproof Buick just works like it should, like it always does I realized last night that I love driving this big Buick more than any car I've ever owned. The way it feels, the way it moves, the way it sounds, all of it is more satisfying than any other old car I've experienced, exhaust leak and all. It's shockingly powerful and fast for something so big and while it's not agile, it isn't difficult to manage in the least and you can steer it with just a finger. My excitement over the new Lincoln (and the ensuing disappointment when it died) were immediately erased when we were gliding along at 60 MPH through the cool night air with the car barely seeming to work at all, Cleveland Indians baseball game on the radio. And then today, it did the same thing except it was a radiator-destroying, gasoline-boiling, tire-torturing, oil-thinning 94 degrees. And the big Limited didn't even flinch. View from the best seat in the house If you don't have a Buick Limited, you're really missing out. Old cars simply don't get any better. Go get one. You won't ever regret it. I've never driven a better pre-war car. I've been doing cars for 45 years and I've never had one that I could get in and drive any time, any distance, at any speed, without a second thought. My father, who spent perhaps 40% of his time stranded by the side of the road in an old car, would think such a thing beyond belief. Another very impressive performance by the car my lovely Canadian wife has taken to calling "Gretzky." Here's a video Melanie made of the drive:
  6. 2 points
    Here 2 rare ones, a 1930 Essex Convertible/Roadster, and a 1929 McLauchlin Buick
  7. 2 points
    There is this mint/low mileage/all original/one owner/ran when parked/restored/only one known/priced for quick sale/know what I have/cash only/no tire kickers/when was the last time you saw one/needs nothing/lot drives/TLC/worth $$$ when done/will help load on your trailer/death forces sale/divorce forces sale/to many projects/need the room/new tires/comes with extra parts/do not need help selling/show winner/clean title in someone else's name/known history/rust free/fresh battery/barn find/never driven in the rain/magazine cover car/don't waste my time/#2+ condition/dare to be different/ask the wife first/price is firm/OBO/open to negotiating/price on request/just had a kid/need the money/down sizing/no time to finish/lots of work done/90% complete/just missing glove box knob/new wiring harness (just needs to be installed)/all service records/photo documentation/very rare/low production/one year only/desirable body style/last picture is of a different car/some play in steering/engine rebuilt/runs and drives great/could use a paint job/frame off restoration. 31 Desoto roadster out here.
  8. 2 points
    The restoration craze of the 1970's through 1990's eliminated a LOT of very nice original cars. I'm guilty, too, my first Pierce was a 1934 sedan that was well stored in dry Oklahoma, now you'd NEVER think about taking it apart, but back then people wanted shiny. Now that the originality has become popular (a thing that bicycle and motorcycle collectors have know for a long time), it's hard to decide what to keep, and what is beyond a preservation effort. If a car has been repainted, and the upholstery has been replaced, then there's not much left of "originality". However, it's part of the history of the car, so should it be saved for that reason? In the case of my Cord, it had a bad repaint, probably in the 1960's. I choose not to restore the car for a couple of reasons. One, there are LOTS of restored Cords out there, you'd be surprised how much attention a "different" unrestored car will get. Second, at my age, I just don't have the time left to restore it. If it came apart now, when would I drive it again? We are preparing to do some mechanical work on the car, but that's months, not years, and cosmetically it will stay the same. Funny how things have changed, years ago if you drove up in a ratty unrestored car, you'd be beat up mercilessly. Now, a crowd gathers....
  9. 1 point
    FREE stock radiator if you pay for shipping from zip code 35757 (Huntsville, AL area). Or come pick it up. It has a leak in the header tube (if I recall correctly what I was told when pressure tested at the radiator shop). I'm not sure it is worth shipping and repair but if it is to you, let me know. Pictures attached.
  10. 1 point
    Attended the local Vintage Car show today, it was for pre 1970 cars in unmodified form. Some exceptions were made for minor things like later wheels etc. There were cars of all decades since the 20's, and I will post a few nice examples. Upload limits may require me to post in 3 or more bites. This one shows '36 Auburn Phaeton and an all original '34 Buick Club Sedan (incl paint and interior).
  11. 1 point
    I am pretty sure the Forum has a No Project Left Behind Act in place. Its not stated, but I have seen it strongly implied. I would like to compliment you for pulling it out of the ground before it sunk in further. Kudos. Bernie
  12. 1 point
    Finally, a couple more, a rare '28 Ford Model A Tourer, and a 1954 Imperial. There were many other cars, couple of Plymouths, Chevys, Pontiac, '67 Volvo, '63 Tbird, '64 Barracuda, '54 Chrysler New Yorker, '57 Ford etc. Great day, 80 degrees with a breeze. Just another Summer Saturday in Nova Scotia! Cheers
  13. 1 point
    Here we have a '31 Dodge Brothers and a 1931 Essex. The Essex is all original, incl paint and interior, very low mileage.
  14. 1 point
    Hi Jim ! Nice to see you back with us ! Glad things look promising on the '47 ! Please use your efforts on THAT car, it will keep you busy enough, and be more expensive than you would have liked anyway. Let's just do some cheap and easy no brainer "pickling" on your recently acquired parts. On the "new" Chevrolet, pull the spark plugs and put 3 or 4 ounces of ATF in each cylinder, peplace plugs. Lubricate ALL valve train components, top and side, replace covers. Drain out the old oil and sludge from the engine and replace with 2 gallons of kerosene, diesel or jet fuel, or heating oil, whichever is cheapest and easiest for you. Plug all possible mouse access, exhaust and intake. Now leave the engine be for months, or more. Drain the oil from Trans and diff, and fill as high as possible with kerosene, etc. Leave these alone too, if the kerosene is not slowly just leaking out. If, it does finally leak out, you will want to flush with another kerosene fill and quickly drain. After leaving open until the last drop of kerosene drips out (2 months ?), put 140 hypoid in the rear to proper level, 90 NON HYPOID gear oil in the Trans. (I don't know why spell check keeps capitalizing trans, but I am afraid to ask - shudder). Go around the car with your oil squirt can, and hit everything necessary. Protect the trim, spares, etc, as best as is practical. O.K. Now put your precious and limited time and loot into that '47. You keep hankering after other hulks, and 5 years from now you will wish you had kept focused. Never met anyone who didn't regret being diverted from primary projects by lost causes and pies they found floating around in the sky. There is absolutely nothing positive about regrets, other than to keep you from having more of the same. Good luck, Jim. I wish I lived near you. I love your enthusiasm and energy. Enjoy that while you are still able ! - Carl
  15. 1 point
    Yep, it’s here, not sure what I’m going to do with it next, but it is here. I had not seen the car for over 10 years so didn’t know its current condition, I was just told I needed to get it moved, so that was the reason for the quick transport request.
  16. 1 point
    Hugh, I have the felt seals for $12.50 a pair. Like Leif says, they work fine. fred.rawlng@live.com
  17. 1 point
    There is a NOS one on ebay now, but they want $720 for it. But it's NOS!
  18. 1 point
  19. 1 point
    Oh, BTW, I've used them before and they sell a "good" radiator, not a "low cost" radiator. I just had to replace on in my old Ford, got 28 years out of the last one. Just be wary of low cost radiators, they are usually made of thinner material to get the cost low.
  20. 1 point
    Here you go Morten: http://classicfordradiator.com/radiatorsforgmvehicles.aspx See what they can do for you. They can rebuild your radiator but may also be able to fab a new one for you. Due to cost of shipping between you and this company, you might call them to find out what you can do to strip your radiator of weight. Just an idea but if they had the top and bottom tank, they might be able to replicate something in aluminum for you. I'm not sure of any other material or alloy currently being used than the original copper or new aluminum.
  21. 1 point
    As we are unpacking the seemingly million boxes that we recently packed up madly. So we needed a break and took advantage of the beautiful weather and took a drive to Port Dover, a town on the shore of Lake Erie, and saw signs for a cruise, so we stopped in for a while. About 100 cars, or so, and here are a few that I took pictures of, another, newer Electra, and an original looking '64 Wildcat, and my own, of course. Keith
  22. 1 point
    But, Google won't tell you the value of THAT particular car in THAT particular condition. Your friend has a price in mind, everyone always does, he'd be so much better off just putting that price out there and going from that. All that said, you should post it on the Model T Ford Club of America (MTFCA) site, you CAN Google that! Be prepared to have the forum members tell you every part that's not correct (and it's rare for all the parts to be correct on an early T). Good luck with sale, am sure it will find a good home....
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    I love seeing all of the various Buick dashboard designs. I'm thinkn' new thread...
  25. 1 point