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Showing most liked content on 04/25/2017 in all areas

  1. 13 likes
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    I couldn't help myself. Broke away from the garage to daydream for a minute.She gon be a baddddd car!
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    My little girl in the 52 Special.
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    In my opinion using the original springs is probably better than using the ones today that most likely come from China. Everything made that was original was made at a time when cost was not the overriding factor for each part, at least in Buicks case. In 38 cars like Buick were way overbuilt. The frames were massive, the shocks were good for airplanes, the springs were massive. Everything was made to last as best as their technology was at the time. Hydraulic brakes were a big step up at the time, Ford still had mechanical brakes in 38. These cars are now 79 years old and many are still stock and still run and stop. They can still be used as a daily driver if someone wanted to do that. My point is that they were overbuilt and that is why we still have them. Everything Gary has done to his car will work pretty good, at least as good as when it was almost new which is good enough to drive every day if he chooses to.
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    Found this '57 Buick in Michigan's Upper Peninsula a while back. It has the rare 4-wheel drive snowplow option. Lots of snow up there!
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    My favorite, but happened to an older friend when he worked as a L.I. dealership mechanic in the late 50's. Dealership owner's wife got a new car. Drove it a ways and the engine stalled and wouldn't restart. Called the dealership and they sent out a mechanic. By the time he got there, he couldn't find anything wrong and the car started fine. This happened several times. Finally the dealership owner told the service manager that his wife was making his life miserable - find out what's wrong with that car or look for a new job. The service manager went to the dealer's house and asked the wife to drive the car while he road shotgun. She got in behind the wheel, pulled out the choke handle all the way and hung her handbag on it. Problem solved. Paul
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    Thank you so much Matt. You and others in this great "Buick Family" have been gracious in offering sympathies and support and please know that it does help. The one fact of life is that we all will be dealing with a loss of some kind sooner or later..... How I deal with it is going to make the difference as I still have mom to watch out for since she is capable of living at home still but I will be the one taking care of the property more now. That will keep me occupied. Fortunately at 89 she is still driving and competently for now which helps on some levels. And so, life will carry on and staying positive, have to make the best of it we can. Doug
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    So I followed directions here : I found the knob unscrews and the bezel is press fit like mentioned above and with a tiny bit of oil and lots of patience with needle nose pliers, I got it apart withou breaking it! Used mineral spirits and a pipe cleaner to clean, ordered some clock oil, but for now here it is.
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    Saw these whilst cruising over to look at a 1956 Jaguar....
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    4-PACK 4ft 40W LED Utility Shop Light, 4000lm 120W Equivalent ENERGY STAR & ETL Listed, Double Integrated LED Fixture, 5000K Daylight Ceiling Light Pu https://www.amazon.com/dp/B01DBFG1TO/ref=cm_sw_r_cp_apip_NMjtKAe3thrse this is what I installed in my garage. Very happy with them
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    Focusing on the opening sentence, a Reatta would be towards the bottom of list for a 16 y/o daughter. Reliability, low maintenance, good availability of parts, lower insurance, and a car that I would have little concern for getting dinged up would be priority in the decision. The Reatta is a nice unique special interest car but does not fit any of those criteria. Now if you are using your daughter as an excuse to by a Reatta for yourself, then yes a good idea.
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    I too love those old train stations, Doug. Nice shot of your Dad, as well. Keith
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    I had the meter out before I saw the damage. I normally start with a simple test light and go from there.
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    Looks like you've just volunteered to be the one to find out. πŸ˜†
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    Wiring new deck speakers. You're doing in wrong.
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    Go to the Centerville Auto Repair web site. This guy knows nailheads. He has great teck info on his site and I have found him very helpful when I talked with him on the phone. He has some definite "does and don'ts" concerning the unique characteristics of the nailheads. Bob Engle
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    Or get her a 10 year old Buick with a 3800 and low miles for dirt cheap!
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    I am on it. I transported a rabbit this morning on the way to work. Called insurance company. They said they would pay to have a new harness installed and fix the insulation damage. $100 deductible. If I was the only one driving it I would leave it alone but...........
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    Maybe a brand new one with both inner bearing races would work for you. Oh yeah, and a new old stock inner seal. Pm if interested.
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    In other words find her a 5 - 10 year old Honda with low mileage and wait till she really learns how to drive before getting her a nice car. Plus the last thing you want is her out somewhere with a broken car.
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    Good a test as any. Even with a double failure: I.E. engine quits and a faulty check valve you will still have manual brakes...... or so sayeth the book.....Bob
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    My Buick had 6x9 installed somewhere along the way. The AM radio still works and I left it as is. I purchased a small 100W amp that is hidden under my dash. I hook my mp3 player(ipod/phone) to the amp. My preselected music plays great and the amp drives the 6x9 easily. The amp is very small and easily hidden under the dash. Does not create any notable heat either.
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    Knowing about an extra carburetor seems like something outside the scope of a wife's knowledge. Mine doesn't come out snoopin' around. Ever since the day she was innocently working in the flower bed near the garage. I snuck up behind and said "Whatcha doing by my garage little girl?" And there wasn't a woodsman with an ax or a brother named Hansel to save her. She still keeps the front yard looking good. I guess it's safer.
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    I saw the digital multimeter. A long time ago a friend told me never to use a tool smarter than me. I would get in trouble. I didn't take the link. Can you do it with a Triplett analog meter? I was scared. Bernie
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    I watched that one. Never was a fan of the death penalty. You did good, Mud, in my opinion... Hope this issue is put to bed!
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    A criminal would have that car licensed and legal in two days. An honest person would get so frustrated they would dispose of the car. They'd probably sell it to a junkyard. The junkyard would sell it to a guy that would have it licensed in two days. Call the junkyard and ask who might buy your car from them. Eliminate the middle man. Bernie
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    I need some help because I've never rebuilt an engine before, but I figure of I can rebuild a carburetor, I can rebuild an engine. I tried replacing the rear main, but I've just got too much oil leaking to the point where I can't even enjoy the car. The lifters tick, the road draft filter is plugged, installed hardened valve seats against my will, and who knows what else is wrong. There's a gentleman selling a virgin 56 322 in British Columbia for $500 and I have to pull the engine anyways to remove the crank, I figure I might as well start fresh. All I know about the engine is that it has a hole through one piston but from the images, the cylinders look good. I need to know what's okay to keep, what needs to be replaced, the best vendors, etc. I'm hoping I can get away with .006 over bore and use stock pistons, but if they have to bore it out, does anyone sell the correct pistons? What about quality lifters and cam, oil pump, valves and springs? Do crankshafts ever need to be replaced? I am really beyond upset. I mean I knew this day was coming but it just makes me not want to ever do an old car again, and really makes me mistrust people in the profession. I don't normally write bad reviews, but there is going to be one up tomorrow morning that will tarnish their reputation. The engine has less than 10,000 miles on it!
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    I tried replacing the rear main. It must have "worn in" because I had no oil issues for a while, stopped checking oil levels every day, went on a 30 min highway drive and came home off the off ramp with the lifters ticking away. There was a speck of oil at the bottom of the dip stick. Now there's also this rattling noise on acceleration, and I'm not sure if it's summer blend fuels changing from winter blend fuels or not. Russ was going to be my go to back up, but last time I emailed him he said take a look at my website and that was the end of it. He assumes you already know what you're doing, which I don't and the help stops there. I want to get the engine done before August so I can go to school with the car. Otherwise I have to leave it with either a. Mother, b. Father. My mother hates men so naturally the car will go to waste and my father is a pot head and I'm afraid he's going to do something rash under the influence with his redneck buddies (the last thing I need is to come home from school and see the car completely stripped of paint with the stainless all chewed up from the sander). And don't suggest storage, because I won't be able to afford it. It took me two tax returns and saving up everything I had to afford the $4200 price tag of the rebuild. I can't do that again, I have to budget for what I can afford now, which means I buy a kit and I do the work myself. The guy whose selling already had it dipped and cleaned and left it because he swapped in a bowtie. I don't know what else is wrong with it other than the piston but he said it comes complete from carburetor to oil pan. The other thing is, I want a 56 322, not a 53-55 322...
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    What you mean is if you "stand" between Russ and Willie.... πŸ˜† Can I get a like on that Willie? πŸ˜ƒ Oh crap Benjamin, that's gonna suck up some tuition bucks there. Can't you find a better candidate for $500 than one with a whole in a piston. 😁😁 How big of a hurry are you to start?
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    Bob is right. Between Russ and Willie i dont think you could miss anything!
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    I bet the owner loves to polish them !
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    We've all got orientations about younger drivers and "collectible" cars as "first cars". AND the orientations are highly variable! A good while back, a good friend said he was going to buy his niece a '66 Mustang as her "first car" and such. I kind of cringed, but then realized that so many repair parts were available for those cars, at that time, that it could be fixed if it got damaged. A body shop customer found and restored a '67 Mustang for his daughter's first car. She wanted no part of it, wanting something "more acceptable" as a Honda like her friends had . . . he was devastated as he's put his money and time into his "labor or love" and it got flatly rejected. MANY side issues, there! But he scraped the money together to get what she desired. As "social" as some younger folks can tend to be, if they aren't in their car, they'll be in somebody else's car. I think I'd be more concerned about her having a very capable cell phone and possibly a tracking app on it. Congrats on your daughters many accomplishments and wising her well in her future involvements! NTX5467
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    My suspicion is that it is an advisory to check the emissions system for correct performance. Depending upon if it's a "Federal" spec or a "California" emissions spec motor, but we didn't get "Check Engine" lights until we got electronic carburetors in the 1981 model year. Whatever caused the "sign", it's mileage-based rather than malfunction-based. There should be a way to deactivate the advisory. The catalytic converters on GM cars back then were designed to be serviced at a mileage interval. The plug on the bottom (or top, too, in some cases) was designed to be removed and the converter beads vacuumed out, then replaced with beads from a new bag. GM was the only OEM to use the bead-converters as upper management wanted the "service rather than replace" orientation as Ford and Chrysler were using honeycomb monolith ceramic catalytic converters, which would need replacement when they didn't work. GM sold specific cup plugs (the earlier ones had a female hex on a screw-in plug), BUT a friend of mine determined that a freeze plug for a small block Chevy V-8 worked just fine. When the beads would clump and internally clog-up the works, the engines didn't run too well, as mostly all they would do is idle. Any throttle past that did not allow engine rpm as the exhaust system was basically clogged/restricted. We saw a good amount of that on the middle 1980s cars with the Olds 307 V-8 in them (as LeSabres and such). In the USA, the new cars had to meet emissions standards for 100K miles (initially in California and then nation-wide a few years later). It could well be that the earlier cars, in some cases, needed a converter bead replacement to ensure compliance. That's how I remember it, from back then. NTX5467
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    Sorry to hear of you turbo problems, hope you find the source soon. Not sure if this trick would have helped but I've used it a couple times when the end of the deck of the trailer would get into the rocker panel and I needed to lessen the angle of the trailer deck and ramps
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    65-67 2 barrel 283/327 different models but that should give the range.. Hope that helps
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    I thought this issue was shelved and everyone moved on but obviously that is not the case. What is the big deal with leaving things as they are. As the club has stated numerous times the museum was always a separate entity with AACA in its name. Now all of a sudden the club is saying they are under tremoundous pressure from the membership to make the museum drop AACA from their name. Really, as far as I could see everyone had moved on except maybe the club board. None of us will be around forever, and certainly neither the club or museum board members are going to have a statue erected in their honor or books written about them.So maybe cooler heads will prevail in the not too distant future, and the desires of the people that gave of their time and money over the years will be fulfilled with combined or separate entities working for the common good of promoting the preservation and history of motor vehicles. Unfortunately burning bridges will make that much more difficult in the future. Chuck Hoffman
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    It's time to start making your plans to attend the 38th Annual 53-54 Buick Skylark Club Meet This year's meet will be held from September 13th through September 16th just outside Nashville in Franklin, TN. We're planning a good mix of activities that include a slice of Nashville's musical history, antique cars, and historical sites. Preliminary plans are to visit the Country Music Hall of Fame and Museum, Hatch Show Print, Cheekwood Botanical Garden and Museum of Art, and the Lane Motor Museum. There will also be free time for those who wish to explore the other numerous attractions in the Franklin and Nashville area, or to take in some live music. The host hotel for the meet is the Drury Plaza Hotel in Franklin, TN. Hotel reservations may be made by calling 1-800-325-0720 and referring to the Group number of 2304254. Questions: SkylarkMeet2017@comcast.net.
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    The MSD spark box failed and was the source of the problem, not low fuel. The MSD units are very sensitive to voltage fluctuations. This is the 3rd MSD box over the past 13 years, the last one persisted for only one year. I ordered a Mallory unit today. Mallory, by some accounts, does a better job. Mallory was recently acquired by MSD and I was concerned that the company has changed its spark box internals to MSD. This does not seem to be the case as the rev limiter and other controls are different. Keep your fingers crossed. Yesterday, Dave Machuga of Machuga Chassis Works, six time Dirt Modifieds Champion, and fabricator of our NASCAR CUP suspension; walked through the troubleshooting with me. We used my fancy digital multi-meter that was worthless. It showed 0 V where we had 11.99V. Power goes directly from the battery to the MSD to eliminate noise and other negative feedback, it was the last attempt to address the ongoing MSD problem. I have had it with MSD and will migrate to an HEI when I find out how to wire it into the FAST electronic fuel management system. The other mystery is that of why are the turbo pumps not working and why is oil leaking from the system? It is possible that the systems on two separate circuits have affected one another. Since we had no engine power and no crew, everyone was away but Blair, me, Deborah, and our grand daughter; we had to put the car in the garage back end first out of the trailer. That took about an hour all by itself. My youngest, Blair and I had to carefully guide the trailer in position on our narrow street angling to box squarely in front of the garage door. This sometimes takes 15 minutes to get right but I did it in 5 after 13 years of practice. The tough part was getting the trailer tongue high enough for Faithful Pursuit to be rolled back. The decline of my driveway made this too hard for us. This took a lot of blocking and tackling, literally. Disconnected from my truck, that was too low at the dip in the curb, I had to use blocks of wood under the trailer tongue. As Faithful Pursuit rolled back, the toungue came off the blocks and we had to stand on the tongue, wrap chain and secure it against moving wildly when 5,000 Faithful Pursuit's weight would no longer be on it. Naturally, the box moved around a bit and the FP's rear wheels got wedged between the trailer ramp and garage slab. I cut some 2x6 and we placed it under the ramp to good effect. We carefully guided the big Buick in and were "In like Flynn", (That's old school talk, in other words we had it made.)
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    For Gosh sakes, Greg, where is the update???
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    I believe they are the same as the 54, and i have some if so. You mean just the cast iron hub only, or do you need a drum as well?
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    Some people just want to see the world burn
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    Suggest that you simply drain the radiator and water pump making sure that no water is left in a place where freezing could do damage. If uncertain, clear system with compressed air.
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    Just learning this my self . Understand the neck 4 digit is model overall , the 855xxx if it is on top of filter section is that component check under pump section for second long number . Sometimes maybe you have to get parts separate to build your own . tom