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  1. 11 points
    Owning old titles is not illegal. Selling them is not illegal. Buying them is not illegal. Collecting them all and trading 'em with your friends isn't illegal. Building a fiberglass '32 Ford, buying a '32 Ford title, putting that number on the fake Ford, and registering it as a real '32 Ford is illegal. Buying a car without a title, buying a title for a similar car, removing the numbers from your car and putting the numbers from the title on it is illegal. There's a reason that a title for a 1947 Plymouth sedan costs $5 and the title for a 1934 Ford 3-window coupe costs $1000 and it isn't because the Ford title makes for prettier garage art.
  2. 11 points
    Had George out a couple times last couple days. A blast. Really need a road trip! Ben
  3. 10 points
    Harbor Freight? Yikes! Be careful and watch the hydraulic cylinder--that's what will fail first if it's over-loaded. Also keep an eye on the outrigger legs, which may twist and bend, causing it to be unstable. PLEASE use caution at all times; if that things goes, it'll take your foot with it. Let the engine fall, just get your body parts clear! What proper equipment for removing a Buick straight-8 might look like:
  4. 10 points
    Caught this 1890's roll top desk on CL this last weekend. It will go into the front office area of the BS&S. I had a pretty nice old tanker desk that I was going to use but I think this will fit the decor of the office much better. It was basically a two owner desk with the first owner being the University of Wyoming which was established in 1886. The desk has a date of 1890 in one of the brass pieces. The gentleman I bought it from bought it from the University when it was moved out of the College of Agriculture in 1969. He was a 23 year old graduate student at the time, paid $10 for it and he and 5 buds moved it down 3 flights of stairs and back up 2 to his apartment where he said it took up half his bedroom. He was asking $500 but after listening to his story, I countered with $300 and explained I thought that would be a fair profit considering inflation. He laughed and accepted.
  5. 10 points
    Fiorello, Our LaGuardia 1937 Model 80C drove across town to get his correct carburetor installed, and for some general maintenance. He always gets attention as he makes his dignified way through traffic.
  6. 10 points
    Tuesday Evening, January 23, 2018: Installation of the Trunk Lid Tuesday is my late evening at the office so I didn't get home until 7:30. I took a quick run to Bob's shop to pick up my trunk lid. After covering the kitchen counter with a heavy work blanket, I started installing all the "trunk goodies". It didn't take long, and my boys helped me walk it out to the garage and install it onto the car..... 7:30 at the shop. Buffed out and ready to go. And in the kitchen waiting for the "goodies" to get installed. I've been working on all the trunk parts and had everything stored in one bin. I had to rebuild the lock cylinder, as it was completely dismantled for chrome. Step one was to install the locking mechanism. A few pages back I finished all these parts in "trim black" and cut new gaskets. Both sides finished and operates nice and easy. Install the rubber backing onto the rear lamp / license plate holder. Set it into the four holes. I like to go all around to be sure the rubber bead is nice and even all around. Four 7/16" nuts to hold in in position. License plate holder. This is the part that slides to accommodate different size plates. That spacer washer is key so the metal doesn't hit the trunk lid. Slide that spacer under the license plate bracket and it will set into the locater depression made for it. Then run the carriage bolt through the sliding bar, through the spacer and another 7/16" nut secures it tight. The last photo of the rear of the car wide open. Kyle gave me a hand holding and positioning the trunk lid, while Matthew was ready to push the hinges into their holes. With the three of us, we got it right into place. While the boys pushed down on the hinges, I was busy inside the trunk tightening up the hinge screws. I only tightened them enough to hold the lid, but allow some wiggle room. Then I went outside the car and got the gaps even all around the perimeter of the trunk. Once satisfied the gaps were all consistent, I turned the handle and locked the trunk lid right in that position. Then went back inside the trunk and tightened down the hinge mounting screws. While I was inside the trunk, I figured I should attach the support arm. It lined up real nice and was fairly simple to get installed. Next, I ran the wire up to the license lamp / trunk lamp socket. Tested the operation of the hinges, the alignment, the locking mechanism..... All Good! And then installed my Brand New NJDMV Historic Plates! Very cool. Checked the lights..... all good! And another big one done! The only thing I have to do is install the chrome handle ferrule. I know I ordered three new chrome ones, but for the life of me, I have NO IDEA where they are. I even bought the ferrule seating tool to do the job right. So I just have the handle sitting there for now. If I can't find the ferrules tomorrow, I'll order new ones. Then it's painting the black recesses next to the work Buick, and touching up the word BUICK with chrome paint. A good day! Gary
  7. 9 points
  8. 9 points
    Well guys, it looks like the Skyliner and I are headed to Hollywood for filming on February 28th. They are shipping using National Transport who has their own drivers and insuring for the agreed amount on my JC Taylor policy.
  9. 9 points
    We drove our 38 Buick on the HCCA Portland Regional Group Mackinaw Tour last Saturday. Met for coffee and drove to see a private car collection and pizza for lunch. Round trip was just under 100 miles and the heater worked great!
  10. 9 points
    The '41 Roadmaster ran great all weekend. I could maybe have been smoother, but it basically ran great. I stopped on the way home and bought $20 worth of gas (ethanol gas) at $2.59 @ gallon. I had run the car down the road for a half hour or more at 60-65 mph like an arrow. While stopped the temp needle went on up. Even with a new radiator and water pump she seems to run a little over 200. That stumps me a little. Immediately after getting gas the car seemed to have vapor lock, but the electric fuel pump didn't seem to help. The last 15 miles she ran rough. I decided it was some bad gas with water in it because it was so immediate and didn't clear as the temp came down. So yesterday I put in a bottle of HEET (yellow) and also some Startron. She started and ran perfect. All in all we drove about 100 miles on Black Beauty's Maiden Cruise and the other people on the CCCA Tour seemed to like the car. All encouraged me NOT to repaint it. A former CCCA National President said it might not be a 5-foot driver, but it was certainly an 8-10 driver. Non-Ethanol is only available at one place where I live in Sebring, FL and it was $3.729 last week.
  11. 9 points
    I thought the vent damper door seals were in excellent condition...until I began to install the doors. I found that the seals were cracked and I didn't want to take a chance that they might crumble with use. Here's one of the damper doors, as removed from the car: First step was to drill out the spot welds and remove the original foam seal from the doors. Here are the 3 pieces of the "sandwich"; the inner and outer door and the original foam seal: I used a sheet of 3.0 mm thick, closed-cell foam to replace the original seals. I didn't have a 5/8" diameter punch, so I made a punch out of a 1/2" galvanized pipe nipple to make the correct diameter holes in the new seals. Here are the inner and outer doors after cleaning: I chose not to weld the doors together, being concerned about igniting the foam inserts. I used reinforcing washers and rivets to re-assemble the doors. And here they are, back where they belong:
  12. 9 points
    Last week , I found a NOS fender on Ebay for my 55 Buick . Location was Holly Michigan ( South of Flint ). I emailed Roberta to see if anyone in the area could pick up the fender if I bought it. The return email from Roberta " I'll pick up the fender. Thanks very much Roberta , a great Buick Lady . Bill
  13. 9 points
    I'm really sick and tired of all the articles about "value" of collector cars. People who are buying these as "investments" don't give a rip about the old car hobby and are just being fashionable. If they loose money, too damn bad. If you're buying a car as an "investment" you are an idiot and should be putting your money someplace that will actually make a return. All these big name auctions on cable with alcohol-fueled stupid money sale prices are the reason why every clown thinks his P.O.S. rusty four door is worth a million bucks.
  14. 9 points
  15. 9 points
    Escrow services for car purchases are 99.98% bunk and your local bank will want nothing to do with it. Do your homework carefully if you choose to use one, but you will likely find none that are reputable doing automobile transactions, especially at lower dollar figures. At best they're scams fishing for your E-mail and a password, maybe a credit card number, but at worst, they take the whole pile of money you're expecting to spend on the car and vanish. They can be quite convincing, but once that money's gone, it's gone. Outside of the real estate and perhaps the financial markets, escrow services are useless. Don't be tempted even though it sounds like a brilliant and safe way to conduct a transaction. Nobody does it with cars. And I have to imagine that the seller will not be too pleased with an escrow-type deal. In this scenario, the car gets shipped to you in another state, out of his hands, and he still hasn't been paid. What if you don't like the car? Now what? Whose job is it to ship it back? Who pays? Are you willing to pay to ship the car twice? How are he (and his car) protected from you merely buying the cheapest possible open cattle trailer shipping and dumping it on its roof in his front yard? I absolutely refuse to deal with guys who even mention escrow because the potential downsides to me are just too great. Someone else will buy the car through proper channels. I am not interested in the "protection" that an escrow service offers me, because it's no protection at all. I have to ship my car to some stranger and hope the money shows up later? Screw that. If you are at all worried that the car isn't what you expect, don't pay an escrow service to protect you. Spend that money on a plane ticket instead and go see the car with your own two eyes and make your deal on the spot. I don't care if you don't have time or you're busy at work or think it's too expensive--you're trying to find a way to buy a car long-distance risk-free, and that just doesn't happen. Find the time or don't buy the car. Buying a plane ticket is a risk, yes, but it's still the only sure-fire way to not get ripped off. The investment in doing it that way is far, far smarter than hoping against hope that a third party will somehow protect you from making a mistake or potentially shipping the car twice AND paying escrow fees for a transaction that never happens. Or worse, being the victim of a scam and losing your whole pile of cash. Think about it.
  16. 8 points
    Daddy, before he was mine probably on honeymoon with Mommy!
  17. 8 points
    If it's a car you want and the inspector flubs the inspection, how is that good for you? Maybe you missed a good car and the inspector's lack of experience made him mistake patina for defects. Maybe you ended up with a second-best car because the inspector didn't know what he was looking at and convinced you not to buy the best. Read what I said up above about it being an admitted scam by the biggest inspection company of all. They don't want you to buy the car. But you'll never know, will you? They're counting on it. I've told this story before, but my 1941 Cadillac 60 Special was AACA HPOF car of the year in 2012. It won at Hershey of all places. It was a SERIOUSLY nice original car. A buyer hired an inspector to look at it. The inspector looked at the 100% original paint (which had nicks and scratches and thin spots, of course) and instead of making notes, just scribbled all over the diagram where he was supposed to mark defects. He looked underneath and said it was a rust bucket when all he saw was surface scale on the exhaust, axle, driveshaft, etc. He said it was hard to start because it turned over slowly (if you've ever had a '41 Cadillac, you know that it turns so slowly that at about the moment you're about to give up, it catches). He drove it and ground the Hydra-Matic transmission going into reverse (again, if you've owned one, you know to put it in Drive first, let it take a set, then move to Reverse--it's in the manual). All these things combined resulted in a buyer accusing me of being a fraud and a thief and claiming that the car needed a complete restoration and was a hunk of junk. This is the car: Again, it was AACA HPOF car of the year in 2012, one of the only awards that I truly treasure and display in my office. Did the inspector do right by that buyer? I eventually sold it and it went on to win additional awards in both the AACA and CLC and recently traded hands on eBay for about $45,000. I miss it very much and would like to have it back. But because of an inspector, someone missed out on a high-quality car that he really wanted. I'm sure he felt relieved to have missed this "rust bucket" that needed a "full restoration" but he was badly mistaken. Worse, it cost him $500 to not own the car. I don't see how that is a well-rendered professional service that benefits a buyer. I just don't.
  18. 8 points
    You'll probably be shocked by how little the "inspector" actually knows about cars. Most companies pay a guy a partial cut of the fee to do the inspection, take some photos, and fill out a form. Some of them hold seminars at a hotel on a Saturday afternoon, and afterwards the guys walk out as "certified" inspectors. The inspectors we've had through our shop have day jobs like appliance repair man, taxi company dispatcher, college student, high school shop teacher, restaurant manager, etc. Only a tiny handful have any real industry experience. Some are genuine hobbyists, and they usually do the best job, but I still expect the deal to fall through when an inspector shows up. Remember that he's being paid to find problems, not rave about quality, so that's what he does. It is unlikely that he will drive the car, but he will probably want to ride with you while you drive it. He will not do any of the things that buyers hope he will do--he won't do a compression test, a leakdown test, or sample the fluids. He'll ask you to turn it on and off a few times, he'll test the lights, signals, and horn, and he'll measure the tread depth of the tires. He will probably take a VERY CLOSE UP photo of every single flaw on the car and over-react to leaks underneath. Anything that isn't perfect, flat, shiny paint will be labeled "bad bodywork." He will act like he knows what he's doing and what he's looking at, but he probably doesn't (I remember a buyer sent an inspector to look at a 1970 GTO Judge convertible we had, and this college kid walks in, looks at the GTO and says, "Wow, I didn't know they made orange Mustangs!" Derp.). I have found it's best to just stand back and let them do their thing. Don't try to distract him from the problem areas and don't try to steer him to the good stuff. Don't fill his head with production figures and stats, because that's meaningless to him. He doesn't care if it's rare or unusual or that your Uncle Frank bought it new. Let him do his thing, which can take 5 minutes or 2 hours, depending on the inspector. You should also be prepared for them to insult your car. Not directly, but by the time it's done, you'll be feeling very defensive. If you want to try to explain away the issues, pick one or two, don't die on every hill. He won't care and won't make any notes, but it'll make you feel better. One company's inspectors in particular (the biggest one with the initials that start with AA_) has flat-out admitted to me that they do not want their clients buying the cars that they inspect. 1. they get paid, who cares if the guy buys the car. 2. they look like heroes for helping the guy avoid a lemon, and better yet, he'll probably use them again on the next car. And 3. they won't have to own any problems that they might have overlooked. I strongly suspect this is the case with many inspection companies--it certainly makes sense, doesn't it? In my opinion, pre-purchase inspections are borderline scams with unqualified people performing an inspection of irrelevant features and refusing to put a 70-year-old car into context and instead comparing it to a 2-year-old Lexus. But since you're the seller, let the buyer do what he wants and just cooperate with the inspector when asked (open the hood, honk the horn, take it for a drive, etc.). They won't hurt the car, but they probably won't help you sell it, either. He'll leave and you'll think he's a dipshiat and that'll be that.
  19. 8 points
    ooops, forgot the inside pictures of the doors. Not finding pics of them after trimming out and with securing sliding bolts and spring latches, will take some later. Once the interior of the garage is finished these will get a good wiping down with mineral spirits and a coat of shellac.
  20. 8 points
    And then put the inner skin of the bead board on. Lay the frame out at a somewhat comfortable working height. Notice the cross bracing is laid out different on this the second set of doors. I learned that doing it the previous way gave too little room for toe nailing and the lay out and marking for cutting was much easier this way as it eliminated the need to mark center lines and tangents. Get the angle right and record it so the exact same angle reversed can be used on the opposing door, then start gluing and toe nailing them in the groove. Just let the ends run wild over the frame... then C clamp a straight edge in line with but with an offset of the frame to allow for the saw blade position and cut the wild ends off. mix a little mineral spirits with saw dust and rub the bead board to bring some life back into the old shellac. I'll go back later and sand lightly and apply more shellac after installed. Lay side by side, grab a beer and stand back to see if the beads line up. Close enough for a barn....
  21. 8 points
    Brought this home in August, 2014: Here it is today: I'm still hoping to have it on the road in 2018, for its 60th birthday celebration.
  22. 8 points
    Hi all.I own the Pawnstar car.They paid 17000.00 for it. They screwed up the fuel system and brakes and parked it. I paid 9500.00for it and in a half hour had it running. The brake linkage was all ot of adjustment and needed relining.It cost 200.00 to reline. The car runs unbelievable even in Vegas summers. It's a very tight car body and drive line. I go to breakfast with the model t club and they are amazed how smooth the moter is. Mike
  23. 8 points
  24. 8 points
  25. 8 points
  26. 7 points
    Went for a cruise today.... Met a 59 rambler at the gas station and a 6x galaxie 500 at an intersection. 75 degree weather brings them all out!
  27. 7 points
    A while back, one of the Moderators, possibly Matt, had posted about an upcoming show. On a lark, I wrote to them about dad's 57. They called me today and want to do an interview via Facetime. It sounds like a neat show, where they talk about the cars and the story of how they came to get them, etc. I'm not sure I will get through the interview without crying while trying to tell my dad's story. I will probably blow it, however, it sounds like a neat show even if the 57 isn't on it.
  28. 7 points
    Curiously, after seeing Centurion's resurrected post on the Lido, just last week I picked up this obscure book published in Switzerland, the International Automobile Parade, Volume II from 1958. On a page devoted to Pinin Farina of Turin, the Buick Lido and a similar Alfa Romeo were pictured. Note the 15-inch difference in wheelbases between the two.
  29. 7 points
  30. 7 points
    I don't know why you guys give the Brits such a hard time. They engineer and build some fine equipment. In fact, my Lucas pacemaker has been in for over a year now, and it's never given me any trou
  31. 7 points
    For those that don't know me, I am the forum administrator and head moderator of the AACA forums. I helped built and maintain this forum as my contribution to our great hobby! With that said, I try to keep a low profile around here. I suspect virtually none of you know me, or care for that matter. That's perfectly ok with me. Recently however I've had my integrity and motives questioned. I want to set the record straight. A few facts: I started these forums for the AACA in 1998. (yes, 20 years ago) I added the BCA forum (including Reatta) in 1999. (at the request of them BCA President Al Eichelberger) . (sp?) I've maintained these forums FREE in all that time including 4 major upgrades, 6 server platforms, and countless minor updates, changes and additions. In all the years of running these forums I've banned only a handful of people (not including spammers) Side note: I'm also the webmaster (paid) for www.reatta.org and www.buickclub.org. For those of you who feel I am in the wrong, I encourage you contact me. If you'd like to speak directly with my bosses you can find them here: Antique Automobile Club of America - Board of Directors. For those that have supported me in the most recent activity in the Reatta forums - THANK YOU! Peter Gariepy AACA Forum Administrator and Moderator 520-247-5918 petergariepy@gmail.com
  32. 7 points
    another CL score. 16 for $200. Will see what kind of LED bulbs will work in them. They were in a church gym and had been painted with a spray gun at some point in the past. I'll have to sand down and paint either Cobalt Blue or Green. Temporarily hung one just to get a feel of what they would look like. Remember, there will be a tin ceiling hung on that lowest truss member.
  33. 7 points
  34. 7 points
    This forum is filled with people with different opinions. Your implication is that people get banned for it. Your massive overgeneralization is wrong. Name one other person who has been banned, let alone banned for having "different" opinions. If a member who is a "good source of info" can not be civil and follow the rules, he stops being a "good source".
  35. 7 points
    Someone had asked earlier how I treat all the old nail holes in the old chicken house tin. Apply it from one side and let it bleed through to the other. On the doors exterior, I cut about half the tit off with a razor knife And the rubber washer screws used on all the siding, roof and doors. Not finding any action shots of cladding the exterior with the corrugated tin. Basically just cleaned all the tin with a 4:1 solution of water to muriatic acid, cut to length and screw them up. Laying out the screw patterns was fun. And the front doors
  36. 7 points
    and then another very rewarding task. Install the corbels into the brackets.
  37. 7 points
    I've never been able to keep up with what century we're in. Except for the '54 3 speed one. Thanks for the good words, buddy. Back to finishing up the brow. After they were all cleaned up and cut to size Squared the first one up best I could and start laying and screwing the bad boys up. and danged if they all didn't come out nice and square with each other and straight along the front. bend me up some 20 ft long pieces of flashing and insert in one end and slide along underneath the upper tin siding and there she be. Brow complete.
  38. 7 points
  39. 7 points
    Next task was to go through all the salvaged chicken house corrugated tin and pull enough good sheets to complete the brow and clean them with a mixture of 4:1 water/muriatic acid. Then run a ledger board for the top of the tin to rest on Then a front double one along the tops of the brackets for the lower part of the tin to rest on. Both top and bottoms were cut at angles so tin would lay flush on top and not just on the edges. Measure and cut all the pieces to the exact same length with my 4.5 inch grinder. Stacked and cut three at a time. Lay them all out and hit them with some straight muriatic acid in random places to give them some reckless abandon rust potential. I would spray it on, scrub with a brush for a minute then rinse thoroughly.
  40. 7 points
    Would be even cooler is some quite well-to-do individual stepped in, bought the whole collection, and moved it to the Gilmore Museum in Michigan.....
  41. 7 points
    I think what comes next was the most excited I had been about any stage of the construction so far, putting the siding up. My wife and I had sided about half of our house back in '87 after I told the siding contractor to hit the road after coming home from work one day and finding numerous pieces not level and some of the trim boards not beveled as I had instructed. The old sawmill cypress was very dry after being stacked and cured for 30 some odd years. I decided not to use the nail gun but instead drill for every nail and use the siding nails that were left over from building the house. Nailing siding requires keeping a close eye on the nail and board as the nail approaches the wood then meets it. Another tap to barely bend the wood and it is good. I didn't feel comfortable using a nail gun to do that. Lots of cutting and fitting around the doors and windows made for a slow go. The Swede was still helping and if I remember correctly it took about 3 days to complete. This was being done toward the end of the summer, September-October. The daytime temps ran from the 60s in the morning to the low 90's in the late afternoon. So work generally started by no later than 8:00 o'clock. The building faces south west and as the sun started getting low in the afternoon the heat reflecting off the foil faced sheathing made for an early 4:00 o'clock quitting time and some salted neck Rolling rock with lime and a few screwdrivers.
  42. 7 points
    47 and looking like rain, but we got over to the next county for lunch on the village square.
  43. 7 points
    Assembled the new heater core into the housing and fabricated a new gasket. Here's the core and outer housing ready to be installed: I started installing a little bling And another layer... After all the hours of cleaning, polishing and detailing, it feels good to be putting these parts together. These are the light and blower/heater/defroster controls. This is a "work in progress" picture, showing the heater and vent control cables. They looked quite rough to begin with, but cleaned up very nicely. A little bit of cable lube and some time and they're all working smoothly. Here's one of the vent control cables, along with the ignition power switch and the lighter installed in the lower control panel: The lower control panels with lettering painted and all controls and indicators installed, ready for installation to the dash: The main dash panel is going to be pre-loaded with the wiring harness, speedometer & gauges, clock and most of the bolt-on components before installation into the body. I've begun installing the harness and some components, but I have to wait for the front chrome panels before I can proceed much further. The fuse block is one of the few parts that had to be "re-cycled" from the original harness. I purchased new harnesses from YNZ Yesterdays Parts (http://www.ynzyesterdaysparts.com/) early on in the build, when I realized that the insulation on every wire in the car was brittle and crumbled when flexed. So far, the new harnesses appear to be perfect. One more shot from the garage, showing the latest stainless additions:
  44. 7 points
    *SOLD* This 1936 Special isn't a car I would ordinarily represent, but that isn't to say I don't like it. I often tell people that what I like and what the business likes are sometimes two very different things. This 1936 Buick Special sedan was referred to us by a good client and the car was owned by a long-time friend of his in the western New York region. Unbeknownst to us, he loaded up the trailer and hauled it down to Cleveland and showed up in our parking lot with it, ready to sell. He came into the showroom and immediately felt that he'd made a mistake. That's nonsense and as a Buick guy, there was no way I was going to turn him away. He's owned this Special for decades and while it's far from a show car, it is one heck of a runner and a car he has used for many, many tours over the years. It is bulletproof reliable, spacious, solid, and it sure does drive well. The paint is quite old and probably done in his garage, so don't expect to win prizes with it, and the black fenders weren't correct for 1936 although I don't hate how they look. So we gave it a modest color sand and buff and brought out a bit of a shine so it looks presentable for driving with a few thin spots that were probably inevitable after all these years. The chrome is original and has the usual light pitting, but nothing is critically damaged and right now the whole car has a complete, all-of-a-piece look that doesn't really need or make excuses. Just drive without worries. The interior is newer and quite well done, offering tan cloth and proper patterns throughout. The driver's seat is firm and comfortable and the back seat looks hardly used. Original handles, moldings, and fittings are completely intact and the dash is in good order. The big banjo steering wheel isn't cracked or falling apart and the gauges, while original, all seem to work save for the ammeter (the car is 12 volts with an alternator). Horns and a few bulbs don't work due to the conversion, but that would be easy to remedy. There's also an auxiliary temperature gauge under the dash. Updated wiring works behind the scenes and the headliner is just beautiful. The glass appears to be original and some of it is delaminating around the edges, but none of it interferes with visibility--the front vent windows are the worst. The trunk is fully carpeted and includes a full-sized spare. The engine appears to be the original 233 cubic inch straight-8, even though it's the wrong color. Aside from the 12-volt electrical system, it remains completely stock and runs beautifully. We've never had any issues starting it--in fact, it springs to life faster and easier than cars half its age. It idles smoothly hot or cold and as I mentioned, it's fantastic out on the road. Plenty of power, easy shifting, light clutch action, and good brakes. We've never seen more than 180 degrees on the gauge and it makes good oil pressure with no smoking or other issues. It doesn't have exhaust leaks or any of those problems, although it does lay a few drops of oil here and there. It's crusty and grimy underneath, but not rusted or neglected and again, it's just about right for a car that you're going to drive instead of show. Handsome artillery wheels are color-matched to the bodywork and carry ancient wide whites, and I recommend replacing those before setting out on a journey--they have signs of age that I wouldn't ignore. Radials would be an excellent choice that would make this a first-rate driver. Yes, I like this car and it's a heck of a lot of fun for just $10,900. That's about the same as a Model A sedan in this condition, and you get a far more road-worthy car with this 8-cylinder Buick. Again, not a show car, not perfect, but solid, complete, and quite enjoyable to drive. If you've been looking for an economical way into the hobby with a car that's not as common as most in this price range, this is a good choice. It's very easy to like and you can upgrade it along the way. Thanks for looking!
  45. 7 points
    Toranado / Riviera. https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=i9lQgRC37xQ
  46. 7 points
  47. 7 points
  48. 7 points
    Think how cool this would be if it was a Dynaflow. But then again, who wants a wet floor?
  49. 7 points
    OK, enough playing on the tractor and back to the build. After the lower wall was up, it was time for the part I have been looking forward to since breaking ground. Building the stepped upper false wall. Luckily I had a friend from Sweden visiting for a few weeks whom I had been storing some cars for and had came over to help load them into containers for shipping back over the big pond. He ended up staying several weeks. His help was a true blessing. Couldn't find anything by Chet related to Sweden but guess Norway is close enough. After ensuring the first truss was perfectly plumb, and any deviations were worked out of the bracing, the first thing to do was to run additional bracing and support to the trusses that would give more meat to the structure and allow the wall to be tied into it with nails and timberlock screws. Then bring in more scaffolding and ladders As with the bottom, the top wall was built in sections. The sections were then winched to the top center with a comalong (you can see the comalong at the top center of the truss) then slid along the top plate of the bottom wall to their respective places starting on each side. And then it was ready for the last section. Olof and the wench winch. Poor guy wasn't use to the Georgia sun and humidity. Yayyyyy, it fit. Like a glove...
  50. 7 points
    Thought a piece of 5V tin would work and look good as a valley gutter so crimped the edges of the tin back to act as a water dam and installed it with the end running wild to be cut to proper length after the adjoining tin was installed. Time for some feelin.... some ol' time feelin.... from Guy Clark, a young Guy Clark Pop a line and with a 4 1/2 " grinder cut the tin siding for the flashing to be inserted into. Both the top ridge board and the bottom ledger were cut to the angle of the roof slope so the metal would have plenty of area to rest on and be nailed. The make sure the first piece is perfectly square to the building and go. Had what I knew was some beautiful grained pined so decided to cut it to a bevel to show of it's beauty and use them here and it all comes together like this