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Showing content with the highest reputation on 07/11/2018 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    As we are unpacking the seemingly million boxes that we recently packed up madly. So we needed a break and took advantage of the beautiful weather and took a drive to Port Dover, a town on the shore of Lake Erie, and saw signs for a cruise, so we stopped in for a while. About 100 cars, or so, and here are a few that I took pictures of, another, newer Electra, and an original looking '64 Wildcat, and my own, of course. Keith
  2. 4 points
    Ford did outsell Chevy in 1957, but most rotted away by 1959
  3. 3 points
    I'd like to just take a moment, and thank the AACA (and the moderators!) for providing this great forum, and to all the Forum members who share their thoughts and knowledge. It's a lot of fun, both entertaining and educational, and we should all be very thankful it exists. I've really enjoyed it, as it helps me stay in touch with people now that I'm retired. You read a lot of articles about having enough money for retirement, but rarely is mentioned the fact that when you leave a business or profession, you also leave behind a lot of contacts and "business friends". So why this sudden outpouring of thanks? Why, it's my 7000th post on the forum, and I wanted it to be a little bit special! Thanks to all .............David Coco Winchester Va.
  4. 3 points
    Out of the two, there is only one choice.
  5. 3 points
    I semi-daily drive my '57 Ranchero. Very mild "shaved" custom but dead stock powertrain 292 V8, stick, overdrive. Never rebuilt. No PS, no PB, no working heater. People old and young go NUTs over the car. '57 Chevs are dime a dozen and they know it.
  6. 3 points
    Thanks Brian, you were right-on about McNutt. Very reasonable, and, even though I thought they were just talking a good story when I first called, they got it completed in short order, the car was delivered today.
  7. 2 points
    As did Tom, I received an award from the Bugle and Pete Phillips. To even be mentioned in the same presentation with Tom is an honor. Wow! I have waited this long to acknowledge it as I needed to confirm what it was for! Have done so. The Repair/Reconstruction/Technical Writing Award. For "Hop Up", a shortened version of the thread about my 263 build for the 1950. Mr Earl saw fit to feature this in the " whats happening on the forum " pages in the Bugle. I mention this not to toot my own horn, although that does feel good, but to say thanks to a couple of great guys for noticing. Thanks, Lamar. Thanks, Pete Ben
  8. 2 points
    My back complained about shoveling this morning so tore down and moved scaffolding to building and installed a couple of braces. Pulled the front two purlins off and backed them up temporarily. Going to try a different way of installing the tin on the gables hopefully starting tomorrow. Stand by... and a birdseye view from the rooftop
  9. 2 points
    There's another thread elsewhere with my updates on the cooling system--specifically, the water pump packing. After some frustration with the string-type packing, I found some lead/graphite rings pre-made for Model A Fords that fit the Lincoln's water pump perfectly. With a little help from Melanie, the "Pink Mechanic," I was able to get the packing rings in there and cure the leak. I also added a grease cup to replace the grease fitting on the water pump so as to not blow out the seals and to make it look a bit more authentic. Here's the thread on repacking the water pump: Firing up the car this afternoon, we ran it at a high idle for about 20 minutes. It heated up to the point where it did when I first took it out for gas: about 4/5 of the way up the gauge. But it stopped there and didn't go any farther. The engine started to stutter a little bit, but flipping on the electric fuel pump seemed to cure that (I bought some fuel line insulation but I don't like how it looks and want to avoid it if possible). It puked a bit of coolant, which was to be expected, and the water pump leaked a little but tightening the packing nut cured that, so all seems healthy there. A little more looking around and it appears that the radiator shutters are non-functional and stuck in the half-open position, which surely explains the heat issue. Now that everything else is in shape, I am sure I can remedy that pretty easily. Fortunately, my owner's manual has a nice diagram of the system, which is handy since I can't get in there to see it because of the grille shell. It appears that there's a spring designed to pull them open should the bellows fail. However, my spring is either broken or the bellows have locked up such that the spring can't move the shutters. They were a quite stiff, so I sprayed them down with some lubricant, and we'll see what they look like in the morning. At the moment, I'm simply planning to slip some rubber blocks between the shutters to hold them in the open position. Full air flow through the radiator should keep it nice and cool and I think the cooling problem will be eliminated. Tomorrow (Wednesday) I should have the headlight buckets back from the paint shop and can reassemble the front of the car. I also figured out how to get the plug wires out of the distributor cap (they were just stuck), so I'm going to install the conduits to tidy up the engine bay. I have new wire and fittings for the plug wires, but I'm going to run out of time before leaving Friday, so we'll leave that for another day. But so far, I'm pleased with the progress I'm making on the car. I'll need to leave Michael plenty of time to detail it on Thursday so we can leave Friday afternoon for the Grand Classic about 60 miles away in Salem, OH. I'm very eager to really drive this car and if I can get it ambulatory tomorrow, I'll drive it home and put some miles on it to sort it a bit. I'll have updates along the way, but I'm very excited to have the car in shape, ready for the tour/show.
  10. 2 points
    Unless you did virtually all the work yourself,you couldn't restore a car like that for $35,000 CDN. 1938 was one of the nicest looking prewar Buicks and this one appears to be well restored. It should be able to keep up with all 50MPH traffic,but might have to breathe heavy on the freeway without an overdrive unit and/or a different rear axle ratio. As for an investment, that's a topic that has had a lot of discussion on this forum.Few of us in this hobby make a lot of money buying and flipping cars (figuratively speaking !). We buy them because we like them. We buy them because they're fun to drive and show. We buy them for their historical significance.You would likely wait many years to make a big dollar on this "investment", but you could have years of enjoyment with it and meet a lot of great people along the way. You will need a good dry inside place to keep it and it will require a little more maintenance than a modern car. Jim
  11. 2 points
    I suppose it's also true that we often grow up considering ourselves to be sort of a "fan club" team member of certain brands of cars. Or at least, I and a lot of my friends did. I am a product of a childhood in AACA (back into the fifties), but also graduated high school in 1972 when many great muscle cars were becoming common "used cars." Less than a grand would buy you a hot Camaro, Mustang, Chevelle, Road Runner, etc, etc, and street racing was rampant at every stop light. (I know, shameful and dangerous...but I LOVED it). My dad drove Chevy's (I fell in love with his 57 Bel Air convertible), so I became a Chevy kid...mostly. And admittedly, it was great fun to pick on each other's brand of hot rods...just as it's fun today to pick on the other guy's football team. Mostly in good fun, of course, then and now. But as I've aged and gotten so deeply involved in the car hobby and the industry which serves the car hobbyists, I've learned to appreciate nearly all the brands of cars. I'm a hardcore Chevy guy, but who DOESN'T admire a 426 Hemi, or a 428 Super Cobra Jet, or a Pontiac 400 Ram Air IV, or a Stage 1 Buick, or a 302 Z28, or...well, you get the idea.
  12. 2 points
    I think too that the '57 Ford is longer and sleeker than the Chevy and the retractable is a great body style!
  13. 2 points
    I think they are both good looking cars but I'm not crazy about the protruding headlamps on the Ford!
  14. 2 points
  15. 2 points
    Another update, after searching through all of the boxes of parts I found the distributor to water pump shaft coupling washer I was missing so very happy I don’t need to make one now! Still trying to get water pump impeller off the old shaft though. Engine is going back together nicely and after tightening the last two caps this morning I have turned it over for the first time, very excited!
  16. 2 points
    I don't even mind rude. Just don't be stupid. Rude can be managed and overcome. Stupid is unworkable.
  17. 2 points
    Tacked on emblems or no that is one good looking car, inside and out, Todd C
  18. 1 point
    I thinK some of your aversion to the disk wheels is that yours aren't striped to break up the "massing" of them...just IMHO
  19. 1 point
    Looks like it's good to go. Three of those rings were enough, clocked at 12, 4, and 8 o'clock respectively. My fingers were too big to get them in there but the Pink Mechanic came to the rescue and made it happen. I tightened the packing nut each time and eventually we got three of them in there. The third was a bit of a fight to tighten and I had a real scare that I had cross-threaded the brass nut, so I took it apart again and all was good. But then I had to put it back together and had the same scare. I think it was just the packing that made it feel like a cross-thread. Using a giant 1-inch wrench doesn't give you a lot of feel for that situation. Also, I expect to make major mistakes--it survives for 80 years, but I always manage to bugger things up no matter how un-buggerable it may seem. Fortunately, it seems OK and my mechanic concurs. The Pink Mechanic hard at work installing packing rings Filled it with about 6.5 gallons of water (out of 8--I think there was still some in the block) and fired it up. It puked a bit from the overflow, as expected, but no other issues. The water pump dripped a bit at first, I tightened it until the drip stopped, and it's holding with no issues. We let it idle for about 20 minutes and it got hot but didn't overheat and didn't act up. It was still hotter than I wanted, so there are other issues afoot (radiator shutters only open halfway), but those should be relatively easy to solve. The big thing is that the water pump (and the rest of the cooling system) has stopped leaking. Now I think it's merely an airflow management issue with those shutters, which are frozen at a 45-degree angle. I would have thought that they would fail in the open position, but I guess not. I sprayed some lubricant on the pivots and they seem to move more easily, but the bellows seems to be stuck. They're very hard to access with the grille in place, and I can only work from below so I can't test the bellows or disconnect it, but I think I can probably wedge some rubber blocks in between the shutters to prop them open so I can use it for the show this weekend. More airflow should keep it reasonably cool. Probably not ice cold like my other cars, but cool enough not to worry. But the big thing is that the water pump is healthy and there are no critical leaks. Thank you, everyone, for all the advice! Radiator shutters appear stuck at about a 45-degree angle
  20. 1 point
    I knew that, I even owned a 26 with discs. Where has my mind gone.
  21. 1 point
    Got to love the bobby socks and shoe fashion of the time!
  22. 1 point
    I'll verify that. My wife had one for a daily driver. She referred to it as her " Tank" , but it was preferred transportation for highway travel. Smooth on " double Eagle " tires and quiet.
  23. 1 point
    Judging from mine, probably a little lower than the seat top. The belts will be routed up the backrest and out over the lower seat cushion. The seat cushion will be compressed when occupied and the belt is being worn. The reinforcement plates should be installed horizontally (or nearly so). The bottom edge of the plate should be just above the point where the floorpan goes from vertical to horizontal. That will determine the height of the hole above the floor. By the way, I don't know if you have belts yet, but I bought mine from CARS (http://www.oldbuickparts.com/index.php).
  24. 1 point
    If amazing results would be a guy getting out of his old car and asking you what you if you are on 6V and what are you using for bulbs, then I have. It is pretty much in the ground. I take a length of #14 or #16 stranded copper wire and untwist the strands so they can be splayed out and soldered to the barrel of the bulb socket. Then I pull my dedicated ground wire to a shiny spot on the frame of the car, put on a eyelet and bolt it securely. If the battery ground goes to the engine I make sure the engine has a ground strap to the frame. I do this with both 6V and 12V lighting without changes in bulb size or type. I have a 30 foot test wire with a battery terminal clip at one end and a smaller alligator clip at the other. Make one up for yourself, clip it to the ground terminal of the battery and the grounded body of the bulb socket. See if you say "Whoa, that's amazing." Guess how many 5VDC circuits are in that computer you are reading this on.
  25. 1 point
    I sandblasted mine. Then wire wheeled them. Then added a high temp clear coat you can buy at an automotive parts store. Still look the same since I've running the engine.