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Showing content with the highest reputation on 03/14/2018 in Posts

  1. 3 points
    My wife said this picture was taken on the way to the ROA meet in Orlando. So my dad and our family were driving to Florida. That's when we met John Hirsch. After the ROA meet we went back to his home in Winter Park for a barbecue. Ray Knott was also with us. John let my daughter take his Riv convertible out for a spin. He was a great guy and a real character.
  2. 3 points
    You know what I find that is very annoying? A person post a question or a problem they are having and "most" of us try to help find a solution by making suggestions as to what could "possibility" be the cause of the problem. Then we have those who come along and instead of trying to help would rather dissect the suggestions and removing the question completely out of the answers.
  3. 2 points
    Small update for today. Got a few things done over the weekend and during a few minutes after work, but overall light progress. Would have had more photos, but camera batteries died. Was able to complete and install the steering rack (Photo 1). I have the steering shaft in steel gray, but the restoration book says black. I've seen others in "natural" finish as well, but will do some more research and figure out what is correct. I'm guessing it should be black, like the book says. Since this photo, I put on the restored clamps for the rubber dust shields on each end, and I have cleaned up the locking nuts and attached the new tie rods to the ends and then to the steering links attached to the spindle. I found an original grease gun for the tool kit in England, and it's being shipped now, so I'll pump up the steering rack with the proper grease using the proper grease gun. I'll then restore the grease gun and add it to the tool kit I'm trying to put together. It will be too cold to paint for a while, so now working on the front hubs. Will be taking out the old bearings and replacing them, then replacing the front brake rotors with new. Restored brake calipers are ready to go on next, so hope to have this thing on two front wheels by Sunday evening, but we'll see.
  4. 2 points
    Those pictures of your 56 in the snow remind me of the 4 years my 55 spent in winters in Potsdam NY. Got the same crazy looks from people when driving it on snowpacked roads and sub zero weather. Will hunt down some pics. Had a set of Firestone Town and Country studded snow tires on it and an 80 lb bag of salt over each wheel in the trunk. That car went through anything the great white North threw at it. I can remember pushing snow with the front bumper on the way home from a Springsteen concert in Syracuse in a blizzard. No weather reports on an iPhone back then and a paper map under that goofy little map light. Somehow those vacuum wipers went the distance. One of a few memorable winter adventures. Thinking back, not quite sure how we got home sometimes and didn’t end up backed into a snowbank. Sure glad the car knew what the heck it was doing. The Dynaflow having less startup torque in D on a slick snow packed road was always an advantage on startup. Once it got moving - it kept just going.
  5. 2 points
    IF they aren't proud enough of their product to put the name on it, then, well...I could go on, but I won't. This has to rank right up there with some of the stupidest decisions and moves Buick has ever made. The elimination of the LeSabre name and line of cars springs to mind--right when LeSabre had all sorts of awards and quality prizes, a sterling reputation and a loyal product following, and they eliminated it from the lineup in the early 2000s. Same type of bone-headed thinking behind this latest move... Pete Phillips, BCA #7338
  6. 2 points
    Just buy it we will help you become a mechanic to keep it on the road .Life is boring with no challenges.--kyle
  7. 1 point
    I would submit that one of the reasons for Pontiac's demise in sales is that the division/corp changed the names of the models at least I think five times in about 25 years. As an example they went from a Pontiac Grand Am to a G6 and people walked away. Here is a starter list of all of the names more recently and I am not sure it has all of them. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/List_of_Pontiac_vehicles And that was just Pontiac. Remember when it appeared that every Oldsmobile had the name Cutlass attached to it? And the examples can keep going on. Total confusion on the sales floor.
  8. 1 point
    I would also suggest that you attach a volt meter to see what voltage the generator is putting out. If it is more than about 7.3 +- for a 6 volt system that needs to be fixed. About 14.2 +- for a 12 volt system unless the battery is really run down and the generator is trying to get it back to full charge.
  9. 1 point
    This morning, I used a file to clean off the excess marine tex on the jack assembly. Now I just need to find or recreate the collar with bumper hook that fits over that part of the jack assembly. I also used some wood glue on a crack in the wood jack base. I then put some clamps on it to hold it until the glue can dry. I decided it would be easier to work on the bottom door panel on the right rear door with the door off of the car. I had a hinge remover left over from my Model A Ford days. The top of it was too small for the top of the hinge pin to pass though it, but I was able to apply it to the hinge pin and then use a hammer to tap the pin up. It appears to be a bit easier to do this than to simply use a punch on the bottom of the hinge pin. I was able to get one pin out wihout any problem but the second one did not want to move. I applied some solvent to the door hinges so I can give that another try tomorrow.
  10. 1 point
    I figured this is as good a thread as any... i just joined up to up to look around and maybe get some advice, I’m 18 and eyeballing a 1966 Oldsmobile dynamic as a project car, I DONT want to turn it into a rat rod or anything but again lookin for some advice on how to get started with parts etc would be nice before I take the dive and buy it. Any tips on places to get said parts or other resources? I’m talking about a restore job in the long term, but I just want to get it running right now
  11. 1 point
    That's too bad, definitely an electric problem somewhere. kongaMan's suggestion is a good one for sure. good luck.. Leon
  12. 1 point
    The diagram should be on the back off the door that you pull off. Otherwise try this; http://www.reattaowner.com/roj/component/content/article/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&catid=62:other-electrical&id=137:location-of-console-fuses-and-breakers
  13. 1 point
    Just came back from a 60 mile drive... I am speechless. She pulls now like a freight train, no more smoke out of the exhaust, idles like a sewing machine, gear shifts are so smooth, you can hardly feel them. The Bilstein, comparing to Gabriel and Monroe, are night and day. For a car of this size, they work wonders. Much more stable, with a comfortable sport feel. I still have a slight squeak from the left front spring, but nothing like before. Springs will be next.
  14. 1 point
    Not my place to say auburnseeker, you would be better off getting yours running good, and cashing out of it. Kick in some extra cash. And buy a running driving Auburn/Cord. Just from a cost stand point. You know that. If you are in love with the one you have, go for it.
  15. 1 point
    Huh? What about driving the car with 20 or so amps going into the Optima? How does that differ from a "regular charger" which perhaps you should define. Your contention is not in the Optima literature. I've been using Optimas exclusively for 15-20 years and have never been reluctant to top off with a 10A charger, occasionally with a roll-around charger on "low," and have had no ill effects. Two points that are supported by Optima's literature: 1. Never use a battery lift strap (you don't need to). 2. A significantly-discharged Optima is best charged by wiring it in parallel with a decently charged other battery (same voltage of course) and charge the pair together until you get a decent (say, 6.1V) charge on the Optima. Most of my cars' battery compartments are under the floor/seat, so the freedom from checking electrolyte level and cleaning corrosion is greatly appreciated.
  16. 1 point
    I agree with Greg, this is a car looks to me like it has been "messed with" just to shove it out the door and sell, a very common trap for first timers. Why is the original engine missing? It was cheaper and easier to shove in a replacement under the guise of an "upgrade". Why the wheels and tires? A flashy "upgrade" and selling point that conveniently means they did not have to mess with old wheels and 14" tires. It is possible the air conditioning is also incomplete because the mechanic did not want to mess with it BUT it may also not actually be an air conditioned car--these have a heater control that looks like it has an A/C function but it does not, if there is a large chrome vent above the radio it is an air conditioned car and if not it is actually heater only, see photos. I would not buy this car (or most others) long distance sight unseen, too much $$ and too many red flags, there are others available, Todd C
  17. 1 point
    Trash bags (folded up) make pretty good turntables to put the wheels on. Jack stands do work great for the string. You will need to space the strings out from the wheels with something because the bodywork will be in the way. I used oil cans, but they don't make the right kind of oil cans anymore. You'll need to find something of a predictable size. It really helps to know ahead of time that your wheels run true. 2 cans per side at the back and careful positioning of the strings will show you if the rear axle is pushing straight, and if it is the toe can be measured from the strings. You can also put 4 more oil cans up front and realign the strings if you want. Most cars have a slightly narrower track in the rear, so with the steering straight ahead you should have equal gaps at the front cans on the back wheels, and more equal gaps at the front cans on the front wheels. Toe in for most old cars is specified as a linear measurement of "total toe" in inches instead of degrees per side. Don't forget to add the sides together. It really should be measured up at half the tire height, but short of making a giant makeshift caliper to measure it directly, (not a terrible idea) you may have to fudge this a little. If you have radial tires you might want to run less toe than stock anyway, maybe half or so. The whole idea is you never want to be toed out at speed. The toe in compensates tor tire drag trying to toe the wheels out by loading the steering linkage and suspension. Radials drag less, and need less compensation. If you use less toe and the car doesn't dart all over the place at speed, you are fine, and the car will roll easier, and the tires will last longer (it should drive fine with the stock setting if you prefer). Getting the toe set is pretty easy. Centering the steering wheel is harder. Even with an alignment rack it often takes more than one try. Just get the toe right, then make identical and opposite changes (and drive it) to center the wheel. Recheck the toe to make sure it didn't change. Camber is just how far the tire leans in (negative) or out (positive). You can quick check it with something straight (like a level) and an angle gauge. Caster is a bit more difficult. Magnetic caster gauges are great if you know anyone who has a set. They stick to the front hubs. You turn the steering 20 degrees each way to make the measurement. The gauges do this by measuring the camber at 20 degrees in and at 20 degrees out, and then calculating. It is also possible to measure camber at +-20 degrees and calculate it manually. If you are setting any other angles, do toe last. Good luck.
  18. 1 point
    Waxy, $19,000 for a 58-60 T-Bird in need of as much restorative work as that car needs is outrageously high. A/C replacement can be one of the most expensive systems to re-do on your car. Quick check on Craigslist for Los Angeles and surrounding areas (which includes Vegas) shows a dozen currently available '58-'60 T-Birds in various conditions. With a low price of $4,500 and a dealer high price of 13,700 for a pretty nice example. I think your dealer is fishing for an inexperienced buyer. Be careful. (and the mags are not a plus) Greg
  19. 1 point
    The example in post #7, imho is twice the car the OP is currently considering. I would give that one some thought.
  20. 1 point
    Workin on it! Have some nice weather right now, so maybe tomorrow.
  21. 1 point
    subscribed, this seems like a very interesting thread
  22. 1 point
    Trade school?? What's that?? Oh yeah, it was that valuable course work once available in schools that allowed an individual to apply themselves productively and recreationally. I'm glad I got in on that stuff, I'm sorry today's generation has no exposure.
  23. 1 point
    First car show of 2018 for The Aqua Zephyr, "Blood, Sweat and Gears" Car and Truck Show at the Rockingham Dragway, NC.
  24. 1 point
    Please consider having your work judged, it is worthwhile to you and the public. My wife and I live in quiet farming area so can easily and often drive as you suggest and though nice I would suggest meeting other car owners and forming lasting friendships could be the real prize. From participating in organized tours my wife and I have friends in NJ and know some of the folks who frequent these forums. I think of it as taking my car on vacation. Thanks again, Gary V
  25. 1 point
    1905 Thomas Flyer - “1904 Model output completely sold.” View the full article