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Showing content with the highest reputation on 02/27/2018 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Dont you mean the rear end results ?
  2. 2 points
    See below!! Thanks!
  3. 2 points
  4. 2 points
    Finally found and bought a 4-way power seat that will fit my car from a very kind gentleman out in Washington state. Everything seems to be there but unsure of the condition of the mounting feet which seem to have some damage. Nonetheless, very excited. Thank you.
  5. 2 points
    I suspect the lack of response so far is due to low forum traffic over the weekend. You can always tell a low traffic period when there are no posts on "Girls on Buicks" or from Gary with his '37 thread. Still interested in any knowledge someone might have on the spring clutch plate...
  6. 2 points
    Those brakes are manually adjusted. Adjustment directly affects pedal height. Check the reservoir and make sure you can see some fluid in there. Also, if the fluid is over 2 years old, I would go ahead and change it. It may need to be bled anyway because the pedal is low. To change fluid, suck the fluid out of the reservoir and replace with new, then just keep bleeding until the fluid comes out clean. Start at the brake furthest from the master cylinder and work your way closer. If the system has been converted to silicone then you probably don't need to change fluid. If the fluid is conventional or synthetic it needs to be changed periodically to avoid corrosion damage to the system. Leaks can occur that do not drip on the floor. A master cylinder can leak internally. The fluid goes back into the reservoir. A sinking pedal is the usual symptom. Also, any cylinder can leak a tiny amount. This usually causes the brakes to stop working right away, because if fluid can go out, air can come in, and it only takes the tiniest amount of air to disable the system. To check a wheel cylinder for leakage, with the drum off, peel back the dust boot on the cylinder. Don't take it clear off, just lift it a little bit at the bottom. do both dust boots. No fluid should drip out of there. If any fluid drips out, that cylinder needs to be rebuilt.
  7. 1 point
    Probably one of the roughest ones left that still resembles a whole car and is not just a body shell without a chassis, will run 10G or so especially if it's mostly complete, but everything has some rust or damage. A mint body shell with no rust but all important parts such as dash firewall garnish moldings etc. Could easily run 20 if it's really mint with no rust. Complete cars that could be used but obviously far from pristine probably start near 30 and go up if you want pretty. I imagine restored ones that look and run good start at 50 and again go up a lot from there.
  8. 1 point
    Maybe I'll catch Metz envy soon...
  9. 1 point
    Then be prepared to tear it apart when you still don't have pressure while turning it over. Something is wrong and nows the time to fix it.
  10. 1 point
    This is a picture that I've wanted to post for awhile, but had to scan the original photo. I got married in 1998 and at the time my dad had two white Buicks, his favorite a 1980 LeSabre Limited and a 1993 Century. Who needs a limo when you have two white Buicks! I spent the day before the wedding cleaning and polishing both cars to get them ready, and on the day of the wedding, I helped the florist do her thing on the cars. I spent a lot of time in my youth cleaning and polishing that LeSabre for my dad! The LeSabre was all Buick, being the last year of the Buick 350, and was a rare color combination of white with a light blue vinyl top... which I've only seen one other time on a similar vintage Park Avenue.
  11. 1 point
    Hello everyone, here are some pictures of this weekend :). so I started to make a new support. for that I proceed step by step. I first made the bottom part, the top and a band that goes around the support. then I cut the part of the floor of the box or was to fix the support. I then cut the two liners that remain on the wheel well and on the floor of the trunk. I then grind the rust on the wheel arch and I applied rust-proof (acid-based); it's a product that blocks the pores of the metal and prevents the metal from breathing and thus oxidizing. Originally the lining was pointing to the wheel arch, so I made holes in my new lining to weld the two pieces together. next week end I will finish welding the second liners and the rest of the pieces that I made.
  12. 1 point
    https://minneapolis.craigslist.org/dak/cto/d/1938-buick-series-40-opera/6494850279.html
  13. 1 point
    It looks tempting to just roll the rearend back on the wheels, but sometime it takes some massaging. I had to raise the assembly to an angle to make it easy to slide. Putting it back in, we rolled it under on some bare wheels and it still took some finagling to get in. Of course, you have to know technical terms like massaging and finagling or you don't get anywhere.
  14. 1 point
    Hi all, am picking up my 1938 Buick Series 40 this week end and will be taking a lesuirely drive back home (about 500miles.) Can members advise me what tyre pressures they usually run on a trip like this? It is all bitumen highway, with speed limits up to 100 and 110 kilometres per hour. Was thinking to run it at about 50-55mph on the speedo, with several stops on the way to check things out, and for fuel, food, etc. Any advice will be good for owners who have driven that sort of distance in one of these Buicks. regards Rodney
  15. 1 point
    New people come around so I will show these 1974 pictures qgqain. And a few years later I took this row at the Strongsville, Ohio. 1977. Anyone recognize a car? On that '48 convertible, I was in Australia when that car was 20 years old- I was, too! If it had been parked around Kings Cross I would have noticed it. '48 convertible and '64 Riviera have always been my favorite. Bernie
  16. 1 point
    Thanks for posting this tip, Sligermachine. I'm sure it will be helpful for anyone who finds themselves in a pickle like this. I will certainly try it, whenever it happens to me again. But I am perhaps over-cautious whenever I am running a tap, cutting only a very short amount before backing it off and adding oil, etc. Then cautiously proceeding again. Still, breaking one off in a hole is inevitable, I suppose. So I will put your advice in my bag of tricks for future needs. Cheers!
  17. 1 point
    Building a garage and restoring a car are very similar. Always over time and budget........and when the wife asks, you tell her you only have one third in it of your actual cost.
  18. 1 point
    Been super busy doing some remodeling to our bedroom so I’ve been spending all my free time finishing that up. I did start to make up a painting rack for the wheels so I wouldn’t hold up the paint shop. I moved off the running boards for now to get the rack done. Using a hole saw, I bored so plugs out of 2x6 pieces. Put a long 1/4-20 bolt through the center and put some washers and a nut to hold it. Chucked each one in the lathe and turned them to the proper diameter to fit just snug in the hub. I cut a relief in the plug so the inside of the hub would get painted. Cut out 6- 7” circles out of 1/2” ply and bored a 1/4” hole in the center. Using a 1/4” bolt to center the ply circle on turned plug, I then screwed the ply down to the back of the plug. Fitting the plug in the back of the wheel hub, I drilled 1/8” holes through the ply in the center of three lug nut holes. Turned some dowels down to match the lug hole diameter and screwed them to the ply. The plug with the plate and dowels securely holds the wheels but still allows for all the areas that need to be painted without any issues. The wheels are evenly spaced, every other, so the backs of the wheels are easily accessed for painting and the wheels never need to be touched until dry. Of course they rotate on the EMT tubing so painting all six wheels at one time should be easy. The rack frame was made a while back by me for hanging parts I was painting here in my own garage. I just added a couple 2x4s and drilled through them to secure the EMT. Will finish the rack up tomorrow and drop it off at the paint shop.
  19. 1 point
    That is what I was thinking but didn't want to tell you to go to the trouble of pulling things until I knew. Make sure to test it on the bench after repair if you can. Good luck with it. And you could still start your car by hand if you wanted to hear it run! I had a Ford T without a starter and it was kinda fun, at times,
  20. 1 point
    The other day before work I got to use a tire machine to dismount what was left of the rubber then I drove out and dropped all 6 rims at the blaster. The two spares are very rough, the rest will require a touch of welding and grinding for aesthetic purposes, but I believe them to be structurally safe. We'll see what blasts away. The carpenter texted last night, he wants to start Monday. After burning out one grinder, I have a good bit of the inside of the body cleaned and epoxy primed (you'll notice a "2" was painted on the rear driver's side panel at one point. Any ideas?), I'm going to get the deposit for him tomorrow and have him start around lunch doing his thing. Felt good to get something so big so clean. I also had spent some time getting the huge dent in the rear pass. panel out best I could. The little dents I made will have to be handled at a later date
  21. 1 point
    Yes sir, it is... just a garage.How many times have I said that.... But sounds like you have it all figured out with building some of the jams yourself. If all that is saving you 2 Grand I can't imagine what the total cost will be. But man those should look really nice. Why don't you start a thread here on your garage build. After all you will be storing a Buick or two in it won't you. Would love to follow it. Here is a set of double pane windows I bought at the local Habitat Store for $100 thinking I could make them work to look like old store front windows but just couldn't be satisfied with them. Turned around and sold them on CL for $400. Then was driving down the road and saw these out in front of an antique shop. Turned around went back and was happy to find there was 3 in pretty good shape, all the same size for $25 each, got all 3 for $60.
  22. 1 point
    Two of those suitcases would be just enough to restore a “barn find” Buick if it was all hundreds.
  23. 1 point
    Been a long winter break , but uncovered Ruby today , dirty but all Ok ,3/4 hours on trickle charge started first time magic ! went and filled the tank didn’t really need it half full , but I had to have an excuse to take her out 😊 give her a thorough clean tomorrow, seems like the only cleaning job I enjoy 😊 be looking for good weather days now , great to be back on the road. cheers pilgrim
  24. 1 point
    I'm not sure that I quite qualify for driving my '41, but I started it up for the first time in a couple of months, pulled it out of the garage a few feet and drove it back in to give it a bit of exercise. It certainly was nice to sit in it and move it about! Keith
  25. 1 point
    I took my 1956 Century out for lunch with some car club guys ( Mountain Road Rattlers ) of Oakhurst, CA. I put about 32 miles on it.