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Showing content with the highest reputation on 12/04/2017 in all areas

  1. 8 points
    This is my favorite of all! Wife: "Gary, what the heck are you doing? We have to be at the party in 10 minutes!" Gary (dressed in his tux and immaculate dress shoes), "Just a minute, darling, I'm just putting a fender on the Buick!"
  2. 5 points
    This topic must be one of the most successful threads on the entire AACA and Buick forum. It's now up to 77 pages and over 1900 postings. And each one of those postings is still relevant. The topic is still going strong. Congratulations to JohnD1956, who started the topic, and to everyone who has added to the fun.
  3. 4 points
    Getting ready to move some snow, but had to move some Buicks first. If the parking arrangement looks a little odd that's because two overhead doors are going in ahead of that Riviera and behind the '86. The last spot to the rear is going to become and on demand paint booth. Muphy's Law says "Get the tractor ready to plow!" Bernie Oh, the tractor is a 1939 B. I don't know what the front end loader came from, but I can post some pictures if anyone is familiar with them.
  4. 3 points
    Since the weather was unusually warm and dry today (50 degrees) brought her out for a couple of hours around town ending up at my friends.
  5. 3 points
    Saturday and Sunday December 2 & 3, 2017: Rear Fender installation / Brake lights / Mud Shields Very busy this time of year getting ready for Santa. This post spans the two days, as my work was more sporadic, squeezing the Buick in between Holiday parties, decorating the house, hanging lights and wreaths... you know the drill! Saturday morning. Getting home from Bob's shop with the newly painted rear fenders. All the cage nuts are tapped with Copper-Eze. All the running board nuts are loose so it can be adjusted fore and aft. Then I cut about 10 small (1") pieces of double backed tape and set them between the cage nuts. I use the double backed tape to start aligning, measuring and cutting the fender welt. By using the small pieces, you can measure, remove, cut, replace, measure..... until it's right. Making the first preliminary slices to start forming the arch of the fender contour. The tape keeps it steady enough to measure it out. I use a sharpie marker to mark the holes and make various notes. After cutting the slices, punching the holes and getting the welt ready for install. Then, I used this as a template and simply cut a duplicate for the other side. Now over to the driver's side. Here, I'm laying out the double-backed tape along the inner aspect of the fender. Now that I have the welt cut, I use a full piece of tape the entire length. Begin setting the welt in place, pushing it into the tape which holds it nice and firm. Finish around the rear section. There are many slices there to make that tight turn. I remove the "tab" between every other slice just so it lays nice and doesn't bunch up. Close-up of the welt taped in position ready for the fender installation. My wife and I were running out to an 80th birthday party, but she still had to get ready so I grabbed my boys and the three of us got the driver's side set in position. I was watching the welt stay nice and straight as my son Kyle began running in a few bolts to hold it steady With the three of us working, the job didn't take more than 10 minutes to get her bolted in. Kyle is pulling the tail lamp wires through the rubber base to get the tail lamp installed. The wires now run through the body, under the fenders and out through the hole in the top of the fender. Wire the base.... Tighten her up! Today, (Sunday), after completing my "honey-do" list, I again enlisted the crew to help me get the passenger's side rear fender installed. Matthew (13) in the back, I was up front watching the running board and Kyle underneath getting some bolts started. You can see him through the gas filler opening. I was on welt patrol, being sure it was staying nice and even while the bolts were being drawn in. It's great watching the kids get involved. Finishing getting the twelve bolts installed "finger tight" to start. I finished up this side by installing the tail lamp. (Why is it lit, you ask?..... I think my brake light switch is malfunctioning) Here it is lit up. Then I went around and tightened up the twelve bolts from front to back. Then it was on to the mud flaps under there. This was January 2017. Here we are today. Nice transition. So, she's looking really nice now! The fenders really dress it up. I have to tighten up the running boards, install the gas filler tube and now try to figure out why the brake lights are constantly on. It is only the brake wire that is live on both sides. The other white wire is dead (Until the lights are turned on, of course) Have a great night out there! Gary
  6. 3 points
    Mr. Earl you may want to move this to Me and My Buick now. I couldn't deal with the lack of fuel gauge. So I decided to attempt to get it going. Plus the wrong colors on the gauges (numbers and speedo face). So using my spare instrument panel I pieced together one out of two. I was moderately successful on fixing things not working. So aside from appearance issues before 1.gas guage didn't work 2. Water temp guage didn't work 3. Odometer didn't work Now 1. Gas guage works... But shows 1/4 tank after I filled the tank to the brim. 2. Odometer works, but speedo jumps all over the place. 3. Water temp I didn't attempt to fix. 4. Blinkers stopped working??? I'll take another shot next week I also changed out 1. The clock 2. The horn button and ring 3. The radio bezel (and cleaned up things) you will see the original wood grain I found under the radio bezel.
  7. 3 points
    well to day I will make the uprights including door post and hopefully the bench seat . my motto one inch at a time .- Kyle
  8. 2 points
    I picked up this Vintage ½ Wen Drill at a garage sale. Never saw one like this before.
  9. 2 points
    I don't remember a great deal about this car but I'll try to relate the memories I do have. Back around 1970, my dad had possession of this Packard for just a few days - long enough to take it to a car show somewhere in the Columbus, Ohio area. I believe the story is that a distant relative or possibly just a friend asked Dad to do this for him since the car was for sale and the owner couldn't make the car show. Mom, Dad, and us 5 kids piled in the car and went to the show in style! Believe it or not, four of us rode in the rumble seat with one of us up front between Mom and Dad. On the way there, and while still rolling in traffic, we did a "kid swap" between the front seat and the rumble seat! Yes, we survived childhood just fine. I ran across this photo while going through some of Dad's things. I do not know the people in the car but the picture has "Photo by W.E. Handley" stamped on the back and it was in an envelope with W. E. Handley in the return address and a Columbus, Ohio address. I remember Dad saying it was a Packard Dietrich and I think he said it was 1928. How close am I to being correct? A few years later I asked Dad about what happened to the car, and (again, memory lapses) he said that it was totalled not too long after our weekend with it. Any thoughts?
  10. 2 points
    OK, this should generate some traffic. On a recent post, someone discussed painting their wheels, and a comment was made about using a brush. A return comment was something like "painting with a brush, now that's lame." I don't believe it is "lame". In the early days of automotive manufacture, everything was either painted with a brush or, as Ford did fenders, dipped in a vat of paint. An alternate was "daubing" with a rag soaked in paint, evident on a picture I have seen in the Stoddard factory, painting the wood inside seats and backrests. To me, the method of getting paint on an object is immaterial, it is the result (i.e. how smooth the paint is when dry) that is important. To accomplish this, one can 1)spray, 2)apply with brush and sand away brush marks (as they did from what, 1895 to 1915?), or 3)apply a high quality paint, with the right consistency, at the right temperature, such that there are no brush marks. I have read an account of wood spoke wheels painted in the sun with Rustoleum, that turned out darn near perfectly, as the heat allowed the paint to flow and dry smooth. I have used the same technique on a few pieces (mainly mechanical) of the Hupp that I am now restoring, and, if done correctly, you cannot tell it from a spray job. Even if a slight brush mark or two is evident, it is still more original for a 1910 car than a perfect gloss professional paint job. I am sure there is a "doubting Thomas" or two out there now who will laugh at that, but it's true. No offense meant if your name is Thomas! One example of a product sold that is intended to be brushed, and have smooth results, is the Hirsch engine paint. It has a very aggressive base, however, and will act as paint or primer remover, and is best used over bare metal. Surely I am not the only one who found that out the hard way! So, how about it, anyone out there using brush techniques in your restoration efforts?
  11. 2 points
    Has anyone used this instead of putting gauges in ? Its a phone app for monitoring your engine. http://enginestat.com Looks interesting.
  12. 2 points
    A buddy and myself painted my first car, a 57 DeSoto, with a gallon of EJ Korvett ( a long closed Chicago discount store) black porch and deck enamel and 2 four inch brushes. No sanding, no primer, no taping off the chrome, just two guys being a little crazy. It look great from 20 feet away and even better up close if you really squinted your eyes. Have fun Dave S
  13. 2 points
    Another update. Worked like a dog over the last 2 days to get to a certain stopping point, as I won't have time to work on it for the next week. Finished up all the mounting hardware on the rear axle (photo 1). Was able to blast, prime, and paint one backing plate (photos 2 and 7). My sandblaster is still hopelessly worthless. I can only get about 15 minutes of work before it clogs with moisture, so didn't get to the other backing plate yet. No way to get it to work right unless I buy a fixed compressor and a better blaster. Good enough for now. My main goal was to get the axle cleaned up and a layer of rust encapsulator on it. Here's most of the way thru (photo 3), then mostly cleaned up (photo 5), then ready for rust encapsulator (photo 8). While I waited in between jobs, I created a brass ferrule cut out of a wire crimp and made it as close to the original as possible for the cable that attaches the oil filler cap (Photo 4). I had to use a bike brake cable, as that's the closest attachment wire I could find to original style. With a little work, I was able to get it to fit through the hole in the back of the cap, which is slightly larger than the hole in the top of the cap, so this side is complete (Photo 6). Still need to make one for the other side of the cable and attach it to the refurbished valve cover. Next weekend, should be able to prime and paint the rear axle assembly and get it installed, or at least that's the goal. I also got back the axle carrier from shop. I got a new seal installed and it turns out the ring and pinion are in spec with backlash, but not by much. I should be okay with the careful and occasional driving I'll be doing when it's finished. Cleaning and painting the exterior of that will be next, then I start with the axles, hubs, and brakes on the rear.
  14. 2 points
    I did get some time in to work on the car. The rocker was caved in pretty good. it was covered in the old green/grey bondo. Once it was cleaned up I used a stud gun my friend let me borrow for the project. Works pretty cool. It spot welds a metal pin to the metal and then you put the slide hammer on it and bang it out. A lot of the damage came out. Not to much left to do. May have to use some filler on it, but not a 1/4" thick. The body guys that worked on it before just punched a hole thru the sheet metal under the door threshold and pounded out they could and covered it up. So I will have to patch that hole too.
  15. 2 points
    Nice car. I think these '70s luxury cars are The Next Big Thing and values are inching up pretty steadily. We just sold a '77 with 58,000 miles and had multiple suitors fighting over it. We got about $12,000 for it just last month. Hopefully some of those buyers will spot your car and step up--no reason why you shouldn't be able to get a similar number, especially with a sunroof car. I might politely recommend some photos with the headlights closed so buyers know they work properly. That and the A/C are things that scare people away from these cars. Good luck!
  16. 2 points
    For my old Buicks, what is a lock button?
  17. 2 points
    ....and if you haven't heard Marty play the trumpet, you've missed a treat....incredible, and he's played with the best......so he can even make an impression when not talking!!
  18. 2 points
    How 'bout them Dawgs Elvis jealous because I’m watching some other Dawgs on tv
  19. 2 points
  20. 1 point
    I ordered Keith's hand cleaner on Amazon. Tried it and it's really good. Definitely better than GO-JO. Still planning to try all the suggestions in the quest to find the best greasy hands cleaner. Thank you all!
  21. 1 point
    I have that exact Heater Control Assmb., Part number 163725 (21-25A-27-28.) It has been hanging on my wall for years. It appears that it has never been installed on a car as there are no scratches where the bolts would have been tightened up. I have no idea where I got it from and have wondered what it fit.
  22. 1 point
    Can't help but notice "Equipped with every possible improvement" did not include front fenders. Bob
  23. 1 point
    Dragged home a 1997 Riv parts car today, will post parts when I get what I need.
  24. 1 point
    Winston, Just thought I would mention it, the under the hood method has been documented, it is listed in the Technical Tips in the Members Only section of the ROA website. David, Since you are an ROA member you can go to the "Technical Tips" section of the ROA website and it gives details for the different methods to change the heater core. The following "Tips" are listed ... 2. '63-'65 Heater Core Replacement - Inside Method 3. '63-'65 Heater Core Replacement - Under Hood Method 4. '63-'65 Heater Core Replacement. GM Service Bulletin, May 21, 1965 I was thinking the under hood method had been posted on here at one time but I am not certain? As far as buying one I believe your best bet is having yours recored? From what I have heard the replacements that are for sale don't fit, so a recore is the best way to go. Perhaps a more experienced member will comment about this?
  25. 1 point
    In the early fifies, my father had a maroon Hudson Terraplane sedan that he bought new in 1937. The car badly needed to be painted. Not having money for a professional paint job, he bought some paint called "Nu Enamel - Leaves no Brush Marks". He took his time and brushed in the finish neatly and when finished, it really looked good. After a few months, it looked even better. It also seemed to hold up well, as the car did not rust as much as most cars of that period.