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Showing most liked content on 11/21/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    These oil threads always get out of hand so I sometimes wonder why I chime in. All my "opinions" are based on SAE papers (which come from exhaustive testing at the OEMs) and one-on-one discussions with several oil chemists that work or have worked at GM, (several of which are published). Additionally, I've worked with aircraft engine rebuilders and listened to their experiences. What I've learned is the explanations are not black and white. Like most things in life, it is very complex and there are a lot of interactions of each part of an additive package, not to mention the base fluid. There are books written on this so it is hard to get into details on a forum since often is it is just snippets but does not always tell the whole story. So going back to post #1....we take someone new to the hobby that asks "What kind of oil do I use?" and we immerse them in some complex discussion of how oils behave, how and why the additive packages were developed and what each one does. Add in lots of chemical and engineering theory and arguments to confuse the heck out of them and leave them with an unresolved issue. That said, I will repost my original advice: 1) Besides using modern oils, the best thing you can do is to drop the oil pan and clean the sludge accumulations formed from using the old oils without the dispersant. Once you do that, use today's oils and do regular changes you will not get new sludge deposits. 2) As far as engine oil weight, it depends on the temperatures you'll be driving in, splash lube vs full pressure, engine/oil pump wear, etc. I would suggest finding a weight that gives you a normal pressure reading for a typical drive. 3) Synthetics are best but I run mineral oil because without a filter, I like to do frequent changes and don't want to waste the money. Today's mineral oils are far, far superior to stuff back in the 20s. 4) And save your money on all the snake oil additives on the market. Is any of this advice not good or not to the point? I'm not trying to be critical of anyone here because we each bring a good piece of the story and can learn from each other but sometimes we are a little too helpful and the help gets lost in the discussion. Scott
  2. 4 points
    The work is going on with the seats. With the exception of the robe cords (parts must be chromed), the front seat is ready as well as the rear cushion. Right now, I’m working on the central armrest; this is why only the upper part of the back rest is ready The most difficult aspect at the seats is the welting done with the same color as the inserts. Even with very thin leather, there are sometimes bad surprises…To continue the rear seat, I had to install the side trim panels. Some modifications were required because 4 thin leather are almost ½ mm thick!
  3. 4 points
    Gary, I hate to be the bearer of bad news but i think you still have a small issue to deal with on the headlights. Check out page 12-28 of the service manual. The driver's headlight should not go out when you go to high beams in the Country setting (4th position). When you use the dimmer switch in that mode, the driver's side headlight should switch between "upper" and "asymmetric passing beams". It could be a dimmer switch problem, a wiring problem, a bulb issue or perhaps an issue with the driver's side headlight socket.
  4. 4 points
    Thanks to those who held down the BCA booth all weekend. Mike and Nancy Book, Alan Oldfield, Melanie Mauser, Roberta Vasilow...I think I saw Don Adams hanging out there for a while. I heard we were successful in recruiting several new members, and many more prospects. Awesome job! I apologize to those who I missed... I'm hoping it was worth the trouble to set this up...maybe next year we can get a better spot
  5. 3 points
    Here is fall foliage in Quartsite, Az and a couple bonus shots. The very first time I ever backed up the trailer into a spot BTW. (Do not ask how many tries/times it took. I got here early and had the lot to myself to practice.) 😂
  6. 2 points
    Went for a ride today. Fuel gauge died, stays pegged on full now... ugh.
  7. 2 points
    Thank you Adam! It was great seeing you all. The event was great as usual. I also won a Concours Gold award with 999 points out of 1000. (Really 1000, Long story :-) ) It was an honor to receive the Platinum Award judges choice for Best Buick, especially as this year had the most Buicks ever entered at the show. Getting together for dinners and seeing each other always make it worth the effort.
  8. 2 points
    Looks like I got taken by Original Parts Group........I think their entire catalog has parts made by other people where they double the other people's price and put it in their catalog. I'm going to put all my OPGI catalogs in the dumpster where they belong.
  9. 2 points
    I owned a 1963 LeSabre two-door sedan back in the 1980s. It came from Atlanta, Georgia when new, and had no options, not even a heater or defroster. I;m not sure about Buick, but Chrysler in the early 1960s alternated from having a heater as standard equipment on its Newport models, to having it as an option, depending on whether they were trying to be a low -price leader that year or not (1962 and 1963). Pete Phillips
  10. 2 points
    Hi, I have a '36 Dodge which has similar grilles on the horn covers. If I'm correct, they are pinned into the cover. I took a Dremel and ground of the peened area behind the grille, then the grille will pop out. When I inspected the reverse side of the grilles, I noticed that there was enough land area around the pins and it was thick enough to remove the remaining part of the pins and very carefully drill a small hole for a new screw. I placed the grilles back in each cover and marked the hole placement with a marker so to get everything lined up. Then I drilled the holes to fit a 2-56 screw, just deep enough to firmly hold the screw but not go through the casting.I then took a 2-56 tap and carefully threaded the holes , again being careful to get them straight and not go through the casting. It doesn't take very many threads to hold the screws. Using a 1/2 in. long screw with a phillips head ( they come in several head types), I threaded a nut onto the screw and then screwed it into the pretapped holes. Then I cut of the head and removed the nut. This allows you to clean the threads so you can get the nuts back on after removing the heads. I then refitted the grilles to see if everything fit correctly. Now you have a secure way to reinstall the grilles after plating. I did have one issue with the plating. Even though I gave the plater the horn covers to make sure of the fit after plating, the grilles didn't really fit as well as they did before. Not wanting the guy to do it again, because they are delicate and very hard to find unbroken, I decided to do some bodywork on the covers to make thef fit the grilles. It took a while, but they came out fairly well, remembering that the grilles did not have a perfect fit when they were new. Hope this helps and if you have any questions, I'll send you my number in a pm, please feel free to call.
  11. 2 points
    It has to be miswired. I'm not sure where or how, but the dimmer (floor) switch only affects the passenger side headlight and the red indicator. It is not even connected to the driver's side. In position 4, Voltage is supplied from terminal 11 of the light switch to the dimmer switch. From the dimmer switch it proceeds to the passenger side light. The wires are marked "16b" and 16gc". The dimmer switch selects which wire gets the voltage. Not that it matters, but we know that "16gc" is the high filament, because it is also connected to the indicator in the dash. In position 3, switch terminal 7 supplies voltage directly to the passenger side low filament. For the moment, I have no idea why terminal 4 is connected to the passenger side high filament circuit. I think I would leave that disconnected for now, and see what doesn't work. The wire is gonna be hot on Country beam position, so insulate it. EDIT: I think I know what it does. It lights up the parking lights on Country beam. That about wraps it up for the passenger side. On the drivers side, pin 2 and pin 9 energize the headlamp through wires 16b2gp and 16gp respectively. Low should be always on in position 3, and high should always be on in position 4. No floor switch. Im not sure which is which, but pin 2 or 16b2gp is most likely low because it is further back on the switch. I wouldn't worry about that yet. Sort out the passenger side, and then hook this up whichever way gets you the high filament on position four. You can also swap wires out at the headlight buckets to keep the color code correct if it comes up wrong.
  12. 2 points
    Out here in Central Washington, "Show me your Foliage!" could easily be interpreted as "Show me your Sagebrush!", nevertheless I did manage to find a tiny bit of fall color.
  13. 2 points
    Kyle: If your car is a model 44 it would have the wheel with the painted spider. Photo of a 1924-44 roadster. I see what you have on the car is a 1928 wheel. The model 55 sport touring and model 54 sport roadster would have a spider with walnut spokes. Photo of 1925-55 Sport Touring. Some of the other Master cars had the aluminum spiders polished. I am pulling apart my spare wheel/ column/box assembly right now. My spare has a nickeled column jacket and is for a sedan.
  14. 2 points
    Guide Multibeam lights shine crossways. Yes, really. The passenger side lights the drivers side of the road and vice versa. The lenses (and probably the reflectors) have a right and a left. (Edit: Nope, just the lenses, Thanks, Dave!) On the switch: 1) Off 2) Parking lights only 3) City Beam (low both sides) 4) Country beam and Passing beam. In position four, the dimmer switch works. With the red light on (Country beam), both high beam filaments are on. When you click the dimmer switch, the red light goes OUT, and the PASSENGER SIDE headlight beams down (to low beam, not off). Remember it is shining on the LEFT side of the road. This is called "Passing beam" I don't believe they meant this for passing cars the way a modern driver would think. I think by "passing" they meant "meeting oncoming cars" With the drivers side headlight on high, shining on the right side of the road (!) and the passenger side headlight on low (shining over into the oncoming lane), you get an asymetrical pattern that is not terribly unlike low beam on a much later sealed beam system.
  15. 2 points
    Thank you for the great requests the last several days. I believe I wrote everyone back. Please reach out if I missed you! Thank you.
  16. 2 points
    The UVIRA reflectors are a key to the brightness. No matter what bulbs you use if the reflectors are not almost new the lights will be marginal.
  17. 2 points
    Yes, the interior is code 620 Dark Green. When I decided to buy a 65 Riviera, I wanted to find a babied all it's life car with a mint original interior.After five years of looking for the holy grail of original 65's, I clicked on Hemmings .com at 8 a.m. on a Tuesday morning, saw the pics of the car and nearly fell out of my chair. I bought it sight unseen because I knew somebody else would buy it before I was able to go look at it. The car was in Las Vegas and I was in Texas. When I first saw the interior of the car on the internet I thought I was hallucinating. When I take the car out, when people see the interior and I tell them it is all original they can't believe it. The same guy in Northern Illinois owned it for 45 years and kept it in a climate controlled garage, only driving it on sunny summer days 1,000 miles per year. The car hasn't been wet since 1967, except for one brief rain shower at the Buick Nationals in 2015.
  18. 2 points
    Congratulations to our very own Phil Roitman for winning best Buick of the show with his freshly restored 73 Gran Sport Stage1 4 speed! The car is gorgeous and it couldn't happen to a better person. I neglected to get many photos of the event, and I completely missed getting any of Phil's car.
  19. 2 points
    I don't agree, disagree, have any words of wisdom, or have anything else to say. I'm just trying to bump up my post count and see my name on this Forum one more time. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint"
  20. 2 points
    That first pic is by far my favorite. Gotta thank the girlfriend for taking these shots.
  21. 1 point
    should be a piece of cake this time then!!
  22. 1 point
    Not a 5th design panel. By the time it was introduced, the panel had a full set of gauges - oil, water, amp and gas. First design (post 18 above) had 3 gauges - oil, amp and gas and was the only one with a clock (missing in post 18). Panel face is silver and glass enclosed. Second design is referred to as an "embossed" panel in the parts book and in "This is a Studebaker Year vol. 6". It also has a gas gauge, ammeter and oil pressure gauge. It is oval but does appear to be the only one without a glass face. As far as can be determined it was black. Very rare. The third design panel face is black, has oil amp and gas gauges and is glass enclosed. Fourth design - the one in my 27 Dictator - has four gauges with the addition of a temperature gauge. Panel face is black and glass enclosed. The upshot of all this long windedness is the subject panel is not a Studebaker oval panel because it has no gas gauge and the panel face isn't black or silver.
  23. 1 point
    Ed, what is the big secret? I don't care about the value, but I would like a little history lesson. I have only seen one of these, and that was about 30 years ago. It did not have an ID tag, and was in a badly worn condition. Send me a message if you would. Thanks
  24. 1 point
    Hi all, I purchased another remote mirror set that included a good condition base gasket on it. This gasket has a different part number than that previously mentioned (1384683). The part number is 1387863. I cannot find any reference to this second part number on any online site like GMPartswiki or in any of my Buick parts manuals. The gasket is shaped exactly right for the base of the remote mirror used on 68-69 Rivi's so maybe GM did a parts revision or replacement somewhere along the line. This mirror has a better chrome finish and mirror quality than my previously purchased replacement so I will install this unit in the very near future. If anyone is looking for a good condition remote mirror for a second gen Riv, let me know.
  25. 1 point
    Agree with Trimacar. This is a very narrow angle (12+- degree?) V8. The cylinder witness marks on the cylinder head indicate that. Also the valves of adjoining cylinders overlap slightly. It is a small bore engine. The carburetor is unusual and has a patent date of 1926 on it and the distributor was used on the Lycoming engine in the 1926 Auburn 8-88 (and probably other cars using Lycoming engines).
  26. 1 point
    One suggestion that might be helpful is to get all the bolts started before you tighten any up....otherwise some of them won't line up. Also, do it with two helpers so you don't scratch the paint on the fenders. Let them hold the bumper up to the car on each end while you get the bolts started.
  27. 1 point
    I agree with comments, fascinating engine. I've never seen a staggered cylinder eight before. The angled valves mean that the inline overhead (right angle gear driven) cam must have something else attached to it? I can't tell what shiny objects are next to cam lobes, is that part of the mechanism for second row of valve stems? Now, to be perfectly accurate, this is not a "straight eight", but is rather a V-8 engine, with a VERY small degree between banks...
  28. 1 point
    I agree with Ed's comments. Very cool.
  29. 1 point
    That is a very unusual engine. I have never seen anything like it. My suspicion is its strictly a racing unit. I would identify it before doing anything with it. It"s possible it could be very valuable. I would post it in the HCCA area on this site as it is rather early. Looks about 1920 to me. Also, the HAMB sight will have lots of racing guys who may possibly know what it is. Its very unusual to find an engine in that league, and its probably too good for a home built speed car or track racer. keep us updated when you get more info. Good luck. Ed
  30. 1 point
  31. 1 point
    Next in line..... if MrEarl passes. Nice it has good slide panels. Steve
  32. 1 point
    No doubt this here is one of our all time favorites. Well look what I found, and in living color Personally I think I like the black and white better. and the one on the right fender is still my fave
  33. 1 point
    The reflectors DO NOT have a left and a right but the lenses DO HAVE a left and a right.
  34. 1 point
    The Parts Place has the red Fisher seat belt decals for $5 a piece
  35. 1 point
    Thanks, Beemon, that description on removal of the washer button is darn helpful.
  36. 1 point
    Monday November 20, 2017: The Light Switch ... swapping out the "rebuilt" switch for my original one Tonight I disassembled my light switch that came out of the car, cleaned it up and re-wired it and re-installed it. I took some photos of the lights. Photos are tough, but the high beams are definitely brighter than the lows. From the manual. They consider "off" a position so there are four positions. When I installed the "rebuilt" switch, the lights were never off. When depressed fully, all the lights came on. I had to find the "dead spot" between detents to actually turn off the lights. I'm assuming this was the source of the battery spark I was getting. Close up of the switch. My car has no connection to the #6 post. Where is #8? Here's my switch that I removed from the car in January. I replaced it because the lights didn't work (although the wiring was completely ruined) and it looked pretty nasty and rusted. It looks SO MUCH BETTER in the drawing in the Buick Manual above! This is the thermo circuit breaker. This is where the feed wire comes in and the dome light, charge indicator and cigar lighter come directly off this tree. So I removed every screw, the two fixed bars and the thermo circuit unit. Off to the shed to get shined up. I bought a brand new wire wheel with softer wires and very lightly buffed out the surface, all the screws, washers and bars. Looking a little better now. Re-assembled and ready to be re-installed. First, depress the internal spring clip to release the pull knob. Then, use a 3/16" Allen wrench to remove the threaded sleeve (and washer) This sleeve is temporary, came with the rebuilt switch. My threaded sleeve and washer are getting re-chromed. For the next neck-twisting hour, I marked the wires as I removed them and released the light switch from the car. You have a lot of room to work. Right between the cowl vent operating handle and the radio! Here it is, back where it came from, looking a lot prettier. So I hooked up the battery........ NO SPARK! Lights are off in the off position so ...... Here you go! These are standard bulbs, UVIRA treated reflectors with a dedicated ground wire soldered directly to the socket. I didn't get the dedicated fender ground wire up there yet. Are the fender lamps usually this dull? First time I've ever seen them lit. It's hard getting decent photos in the dark. But that just looks cool! LOW BEAM Position 3 ( "CITY" ) HIGH BEAM Position 4 ( "COUNTRY" ) The driver's lamp goes out when I step on the high beam pedal in the car. Dash Panel: One year comparison: November 20, 2016. Compared to: November 20, 2017 When I step on the foot switch, the red indicator lamp illuminates on the dash panel and the driver's headlight goes out. One more! Thanks to all the "electricians" out there that sent in a lot of great advice helping me find the short. I will attack the fuel gauge tomorrow. I'm beat! Have a great night! Gary
  37. 1 point
    Greg my mom is in a nursing home in south jersey one of the residents looks just like the picture you have posted I will try to get snap shot when I am there
  38. 1 point
    The switch is the leak. I get slight vacuum at the washer pump without the button pressed. When I press the button I get only slightly more. When I bypass the switch I get full vacuum.
  39. 1 point
  40. 1 point
    AACA - Texas Region meeting at a member's "car barn" in Decatur, TX today - about 60 miles from home. It was a beautiful clear and cool day, so the meeting was well attended and a number of members drove their club cars. Hope you enjoy the photos of some of the cars.
  41. 1 point
    Like I said, it's just the empty body as shown in these pictures. I believe George Kaforski had one he was willing to sell a couple of years ago. I can PM you his contact info if you need it. Peter
  42. 1 point
    Not to bring up the dreaded clutch fan on a 55 thread again, but......well.....bringing up the dreaded clutch fan on a 55 thread again, thought it would be worthwhile to post final results from this summers work to document results (yeah have some catching up to do!) When I replaced the factory radiator about 15 years ago with a new one (it was the old cellular looking rows, not the serpentine, and kept the original tanks), unbeknownst to me there was a standard and HD core and the standard core (3 row, 9/16 inch centers) is what went in the car. Wanting to add AC to the car (successfully that is), and not having enough cooling reserve to handle the anticipated condenser heat load, bit the bullet this past summer and went with a HD radiator core, 3 row on 3/8 in centers. If memory serves I think that came to about 17 more rows over the standard radiator - dont quote me on that. Difference below, HD on left, standard from the car on the right: After some metalwork and paint on the top tank (fixed the spot on the right after it was in the car): Then measured what the absolute largest 6 blade fan that would fit in the shroud opening, which came out to a little over 19.5 inches. Shifting the shroud down about 1/4 centered it perfectly with the water pump. If you choose to go with a 6 blade clutch fan vs fixed non clutch setup (the factory set up), here is the Derale fan that was installed with a standard duty clutch: Used this setup with the new AC installed and while there were not many days in 90s this past summer in Binghamton, am happy to report that this setup effectively cooled the car down to about 200 with the AC on. It would not peg at H when left to sit idling in drive in the sun, and when in neutral and revved at fast idle the temp gauge visibly dropped with the fan on. Additionally I added a 13 lb radiator cap, although for all prior testing a 7 lb cap was adequate to hold pressure even with the needle pegged at hot. In hindsight, probably should have had the HD sized radiator in there all along for a 322. Expect that would work fine for a non AC car and a 4 blade fan. After putting AC in the car, the idle was bumped up from 475 D to about 550 D, 650 N. In N with the clutch disengaged and fan spinning it would still pull enough air to hold a rag against the AC condenser. If I put it on the high speed idle step with the hood closed it held a rag to the grill. Had no temp issues all summer. My estimate is the car ran between 185 and 210 with AC on in all kinds of weather and terrain - brief excursion to about 215-220 if coming off a long highway run on a low 90s day and then sitting at a dead standstill on an exit ramp in traffic at idle. Revving the engine in Neutral slowly brought it back down to the high edge of the N on the temp gauge, or about 190-195. Naturally the electric fuel pump was on or none of this was possible. Hope this info helps folks. I have a couple extra fans if anyone is interested - came as surplus in an order.
  43. 1 point
    Thanks to all who mentioned me above. Just know that I really enjoy having so many "Buick Buddies" who share my passion. Thanks to all for keeping this hobby alive with a passion to restore and drive their Buicks. More specifically to: Derek Thille, Larry Schramm, Marck Barker, Pete Phillips, & Brian Heil for allowing me to help them spend their money on Buick projects & parts. Dave Ebert, John Scheib, & Larry Dibarry for keeping the PWD going when I took a break to care for my elderly father. Fred Rawling, Brian Lawrence, Randy Dekker, & Mike Middleton for helping me and others find and restore old Buicks. And most of all, to my lovely wife Rinda for putting up with the grease and grime from working on cars, and for being the best nag-avator on tours.
  44. 1 point
    … well good reading and many logical yet passionate dissertations presented about and for a resolution to this quarter the OP presented … what I have to humbly offer and worth mentioning perhaps is to consider that the inevitable slight invisible hand of fate is upon us … forces from the macro all the way over to the micro … the horizontal to the vertical so-to-speak …. the results of which we are now recognizing … these declining numbers of members both new and old are not only due to basic attrition rates, nor inabilities real and or created to attract new blood but are in great part due to the changing of popular demographic interests for current novelties, fascinations, and life related passions … however outside even this spectrum is the very visible forces forged and coupled inflicting the real ongoing current collateral damages to the core of this membership and all hobbyist alike … the past 30 years of daft economic, political and trade related practices leaving much of this once self proficient core of the middle class the very essence of what Buick stood for shrinking day by day in real economic terms for both present and future prospectives … leading onward without the ability to replace that same core of those that came before and the list goes on & on … changing pages, publication drafts per year, dues, parking orientations nor even mergers with the dwindling mass of others will not deflect the forces brought upon us by this foe of our time. The original founding intent of the BCA was for as I understand it, the preservation and appreciation of our time capsules aka our Buicks … kinda like what is old shall be new again … what has been so shall be again. In a nutshell the current BCA will survive as long as it is allowed to survive by these forces however during that time we can stay active, accommodating and appreciative of what our particular passion of Buick stands for to us and participate in that romance as long as there is a glow - dave
  45. 1 point
    Doesn't the cowl tag have a paint code of "D"? That is Crystal Blue according to ROA trim page http://rivowners.org/features/Ev_Stats/colortrim/68-69.html. Copper Mist would be code "W" if I am reading the chart correctly. This car has the pebbled rear window screen panel and the vinyl top appears to have the correct chrome trim pieces in the B pillar. It's interesting that the spare tire well is also copper color and not blue, so maybe someone repainted the trunk floor also? As stated previously, it appears to be a well executed paint job. Removing the door panels might reveal the original color (?). I wonder if the cowl tag has been replaced? Without looking at the paper documentation included, who knows? I am sure there is no build sheet available as that would definitely answer that question. Hmmm...
  46. 1 point
  47. 1 point
    My understanding is that DOT 5 is not compatible with the either DOT 3 or 4. If you intend to change the brake fluid from one to the other, while you're doing a complete rebuild would be the time to do it. Keith
  48. 1 point
    There are master cylinder rebuild kits available from Bob's Automobilia and CARS, Inc. The master cylinder can usually be easily rebuilt, unless it has been sitting unused for many years with moisture in it, which would pit the cast iron cylinder. Rebuild kit is around $25 or $30. Pete Phillips, BCA #7338 Leonard, TExas
  49. 1 point
    Good advice so far. Get the cap off the master cylinder and see if it is low or empty. Look for leaks. If you dont see any big obvious leaks, bleed it. Harbor freight has vacuum bleeders cheap. Get one. Hook up the little jar to the pump, paying attention to which port is which. It is marked. Suck any remaining fluid out of the master cylinder. Get at least one big bottle of brake fluid, maybe two. Fill the master cylinder with clean new brake fluid. Open a bleeder and hook the hose to it. Start with the farthest one from the master cylinder (right rear). Suck some fluid through. Have an assistant keep dumping fresh new brake fluid in the master cylinder as it goes down.. Do not under any conditions let the master cylinder get empty. Keep sucking until you see clean fluid in the hose. Close the bleeder. Repeat for the other three bleeders, moving closer to the master cylinder as you go. Throughout this process do not let the jar on the bleeder get all the way full. You will have to keep emptying it. Don't let it tip over either (this part is fiddly). If you fail at either of these your cheapie pump will be full of brake fluid. This is not the end of the world, but it makes a mess. If a bleeder wont bleed it may be plugged. Take it out and scrutinize it. The hole goes in from the side at one and, and out the top at the other end (the hole goes around a corner). Tiny drill bits and or stiff wire from a mig welder or a wire brush can help you get the holes open. Once unplugged, put it back in and try again. BRAKE FLUID REMOVES PAINT! Don't get any on the paint. If you do clean it up immediately with water. After you are done and everything is closed clean up any brake fluid mess with water. Avoid the master cylinder lid with the water though, as it is probably vented, and you do NOT want any water getting in the system. The brake fluid chemically attracts the water! Be careful not to get the water too close to the lid, or to any open bleeders. Brake fluid that is contaminated with water is corrosive, and eats the cylinder bores. You will see plenty of this nastiness come out when you bleed it. Ok, so you have it full of clean fluid now. Are there any obvious leaks? If there are fix the leaks now, do not attempt to drive it. No obvious leaks? Bleed once more, this time by hand. Have a friend pump up the pedal a few times, and hold. DO NOT PUSH THE PEDAL TO THE FLOOR WHEN YOU ARE PUMPING, DO YOUR BEST TO NOT PUSH IT DOWN ANY FURTHER DOWN THAN IT WAS GOING WHEN IT WAS WORKING RIGHT. Hold it in the down (brakes on) position, open the farthest away bleeder for just a tiny quick squirt and close it. You can use your hose and bleed jar to keep the mess under control. The pedal will go down when you open it. I hope your friend on the pedal is paying attention. Repeat this 2 or 3 times, or until you have fluid but don't hear any air coming out. Continue this process for the other 3 bleeders, moving closer to the master cylinder as you go. You should have a pedal now. Look it over again for leaks. If there are any, fix before attempting to drive. If you have a spongy pedal, you didnt get all the air out. If you have a good pedal, but it slowly sinks, double check for leaks. Sinking pedal with no leaks? The master cylinder is bad. The reason for not taking the pedal all the way to the floor is if you push the pedal farther than it ever goes, you might be dragging the seals across a bunch of scaly rust, potentially tearing them. If the master cylinder is brand new, you don't need to consider this. Good luck. Let us know what happens.
  50. 1 point
    I did receive an e-mail reply back from Larry Gustin advising me of several possible sources to check for further information on the BX ### code topic. Thanks to him and Sean for their replies. My research goes on and I will post any new information I find out here. I mentioned in my Post #6 above that I have pictures of Body by Fisher Number Plates showing BX ### codes for different years and models. For those interested, they include: ♦ 1950 Buick Roadmaster Convertible (PAINT BX332) ♦ 1953 Buick Skylark (TRIM BX76). The OE trim was NOT Black leather that was a standard Code #76 for non-1953 Buick Skylarks. OE trim exists to confirm that. ♦ 1953 Buick Skylark (TRIM and PAINT are blank. BX357 is noted near ACC.) ♦ 1954 Buick Landau (TRIM and PAINT are blank. BX5 is noted below the ACC line.) The Landau was a one-off custom conversion from a four-door sedan. ♦ 1957 Buick Super two-door Hardtop (PAINT BX427) ♦ 1957 Buick Roadmaster Convertible, see Post #1 above. (PAINT BX145) Additional comments from all others along with pictures of Number Plates are invited. Thanks. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 “500 Miles West of Flint”