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Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/05/2017 in all areas

  1. 5 points
    The car hauler driver said that he wants a Buick "just like this"!
  2. 4 points
    The majestic '38 Roadmaster is now on the car hauler, heading for Brian. Here are a few photos, documenting the loading of the car this morning here near Tacoma.
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
    For what it is worth, divine intervention? Your '55 will look better keeping the shoes it has. And they are WAY easier to clean. My .02. Ben
  5. 3 points
    Winter is effectively begun in this part of the world. The 1929 will be coming home yet too so started tidying the garage. Didn't get too far though.
  6. 3 points
    This is such a happy little car. Suzanne wants to call it Hawkeye, but the children, who think of the Marvel character rather than the MASH character are fighting it. That said, it's the end of a season. I'm happy I drove it out to the country on Thursday as that was our last dry day. We now have snow and if the prediction is correct it with temperatures it won't be gone until spring.
  7. 2 points
    Here's a little fix that I did on the '41 this week. Currently it is laid up awaiting the return of it's gas tank, which is at a shop having a liner put in it. I had installed new shock links when I put it together 5 or 6 years ago, but was still using the old shocks till recently. I got rebuilt shocks early this year, but had not put them in as I was planning to put the taller ratio gears (3.4's instead of the stock 3.9's) in, and much of that has to apart anyway to do that. To save my aching elbow, I had the work professionally done, much to my satisfaction I must say. So I had them put the rebuilt shock in at the time. Needless to say, the ride was considerably improved, till one day I heard a banging at the back. Sliding under in a parking lot I could see that the pin that connects the link to the shock had simply pulled out of the link, but it was still connected to the shock itself. Those readers that have worked on these units will understand, but for those that haven't, here's an explanation. The shock bolts onto the inside of the brake backing plate, and a link connects to an arm which comes out of the inside back of the shock itself, but doesn't attach to the frame directly, like modern ones do, but rely on a slim vertical bar, with two shortish tapered pins. The top one fits into a fitting on the inside of the frame rail, and the lower one into the shock arm. The pins in the link are set into rubber, much like a motor mount is, and it was this which failed, and let it pull out. Also, there seemed to be a bit of misalignment of the pin to the arm. I still had the old ones, and compared the two, but they were identical. I drilled and tapped into the inner side, and put a bolt in where it goes through the link, but it worked its' way out after a short while again. So I decided to create a new modified one on my lathe. When doing the careful measurements I found part of the answer, as the taper on the shock arm was a bit larger, which when tightened up, pulled it even further out of alignment. I think that since the old shock wasn't doing too much, it didn't put very much stress on this unit, but the new ones, did. So, when making it up, I increased the gap about 3/32nds, and made the taper a bit larger as well, so that when installed it would be more in line. The biggest change was to make a stud which goes out the inside end of the link, so that I can put a nut and then a lock nut on it. There is lots of space on the inner side, the there is no issues with the stud interfering with another component. I have posted a few pictures of the manufacturing progression. Keith
  8. 2 points
    Hi yes its not in USA , i am lokated in Nothern Sweden , the garage is 8*12 meter , and i have floor heating , and its isolated so i have 20'Celsius also on the winter , , the winter is so damn loooong here ... But when you have a garage and plenty of Buicks so it's ok ... Bt
  9. 1 point
    It's that time of year once again for the famous London to Brighton Run. This Sunday, 5 November, hundreds of pre 1905 vehicles will make the 60 mile run from London's Hyde Park to Brighton. It's a spectacle unlike any other automotive event on earth! You can find all information about the event, including entries, and follow-up after the event as videos and photos are posted. Check it out with this link: http://www.veterancarrun.com/home Today was also Bonham's pre event auction of early vehicles and automobilia, and you can look at items and results here https://www.bonhams.com/auctions/24123/ Aside from selling a great selection of early automobilia, the vehicles offered included what has traditionally been the run's earliest starters, - a Scottish built Salvensen steam wagon. Check the auction listings for details of this amazing machine. If you love really early machinery, you'll spend some time looking over the entries and auction items. Brass is beautiful! Terry
  10. 1 point
    Would the owner of this car be interested in some free 63 parts for pick up in the Richmond, VA area? They are from a Skylark, but include wheels, radiator, and other things that would probably work for a Special too. PM me and I will get you the contact info from the email I received.
  11. 1 point
    I think I read in another posting that the big K stands for optional heat/defroster package? The large hose in the engine compartment is outside air supply attached to core support, next to radiator. Tags originally riveted on untill about '48 or '49? then with screws. Your chassis vin # should be on an aluminum strip attached with what looks like rivets on the top of the frame rail pass side next to body cowl to frame brace, but can be tapped out like a nail from underneath as they have spiral flutes on the shaft that create a light press fit when tapped in at assembly time. Engine # not matching with chassis vin this vintage, however some states used eng #stamped on pad as legal registration #. So if your concerned about how numbers corolate with paper registration, that aspect can cause confusion. When changed in that scenario, the numbers were supposed to be transferred if new Buick eng with blank stamp pad. Used replacement eng, already stamped, how many stampings got transferred? Eng number should end with 5? (Dang memory),which stands for Super which is a 50 Series Buick(56s), 2dr cpe. Confused yet? Your tag on the cowl should have yet another number after Mod 56, this is the number in the Buick factory parts books to look up parts for your car exactly, as other styles, 4dr (51) etc. Supers are also 50 series, but not 56s, 2 Dr cnvrts 56c. 51c= 4dr Cnvrt. The quiz is Fri. But not this Fri. Lol!
  12. 1 point
    Thanks Neil, it was a long road to where it is now, and at times it didn't seem as though it ever would get done. I think that these pictures make it look better than it actually was, as a lot of work that the floor and structure required doesn't show. As I go through stuff I will find more of the "in progress" pictures I took, and will post them. Kind of a backwards progression on the thread, but much of the work on the car was done before I joined the forum here, and I was shooting film, so not so easy to post as well. Keith
  13. 1 point
    I thought 6 large was a bit on the high side until I saw that it has a tilt able dash. That's a game changer. The Kenworth hood really draws the entire build into a smooth, blended, almost factory look, yet with a provocative "in your face" attitude.
  14. 1 point
    You learn to pull the handle but before you hit the road, make sure your parking brakes are adjusted and working as well as your service brakes.
  15. 1 point
    I really don't care WHAT I'm parked next to at the show. It's the "who" part that matters the most. I love striking up conversations with folks I've never met at the national meet and talking about their cars. But once the judging is over, you will rarely find me at my car...unless I'm stuffing parts into the trunk from the swap meet. I'm cool with whatever people want to do with the parking situation, as long as it doesn't kill the judges. They are already giving up a good portion of their Saturday (most likely vacation time) to schlep around all of our cars and sweat bullets for people who will never be happy with the score they give your car
  16. 1 point
    Here's my take from encountering this problem years ago. Odds are the car will not start because: 1) The gasoline has washed the oil off the cylinder walls, and you aren't getting enough compression. In this case you'd need to squirt some oil into the cylinders on top of the pistons and spin the engine so the oil gets onto the cylinder walls and seals the rings. 2) Or the gasoline itself is old and has degraded/separated into its component parts. I've had this problem with small equipment that sat up too long. Requires draining all the old gas out and replacing with new. 3) Or you still have the flooding problem, and the mixture is too rich to burn. If so, find and fix the problem causing the flooding, and take the spark plugs out and let the engine set for a while so the excess gas can evaporate out of the combustion chamber. You may still need to oil the cylinder walls. 4) Or you have a ruptured fuel pump diaphragm that is pouring gas into the engine pan. I've seen instances of the entire crankcase filled with gasoline on old Chrysler slant 6's. They would not start despite getting fuel and spark. But sometimes they'd blow the entire pan off. Again, the problem was the gasoline diluted the oil and there was no compression. 5) Or this is an older car with a vacuum tank with a stuck float, due to a loose bushing above the float. Gasoline then gets sucked directly into the intake manifold via the connection between the manifold and the vacuum tank, completely bypassing the carburetor. 6) Or your carburetor is gummed up and the float is stuck down, or is full of gas and has sunk. This may be the most likely cause, rather than a carburetor mis-adjustment. You didn't mention the car or the type of fuel system it has. More information would help.
  17. 1 point
    Hi Al, Not in NC yet. Transporter to pick up later this week (hopefully) and then a week to 1.5 weeks to get back to NC. Current plans are for it to be a tour/enjoy car, if that means it ends up at a show to two so be it. Eventually I would like to do a 400 pt level restoration but I have 2 cars I want to restore first and I may have so much fun driving it (I'm hoping it is far more reliable than my 80C) and enjoying not having to worry about it getting scratched or road chipped or whatever that by the time I get those other two done I may change my mind. That said I'm too much of a perfectionist not to start tinkering and improving things here and there.
  18. 1 point
    Probably the last run for the Electra until Spring. As if the car knew, it decided to strand me for a few minutes on the side of a busy highway with not much of a shoulder! Was able to get it restarted after 10min or so and made it home without any further problems. Not sure why it stalled, but nothing like losing power doing 60 mph on a busy, windy mountain road!
  19. 1 point
    Tyler, It is your car to do what you wish, but a properly tuned 1931 60 series original drive train will keep up with modern traffic and stop just fine with correctly adjusted mechanical brakes on all four wheels. I suggest you restore it and drive it awhile before deciding to change the drive train. Just my $0.02
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    I don’t think this would help @bobg1951Chevy. He has a ‘69 and this is an EM. Am I wrong BOB?
  22. 1 point
    Dirty Buick...but it was out yesterday for the first time in a month since moving into the new place.
  23. 1 point
    Another plan comes together. Woo Hoo !!
  24. 1 point
    Knocked a couple small dents out of the passenger side of the cowl and then fitted the cowl onto the new wood. I was lucky and able to use the hinge pillars and the cowl wood with just a small repair to the lower portion of the driver's side pillar. All the holes drilled in the new new sills lined up without issue on the cowl attachment points. The lower cowl is lining up perfectly with the rocker panels so all appears correct to proceed. The new floor board and original, to the car, toe board, are fitting together perfectly. The cabin seems pretty spacious looking at it and hopefully will be comfortable for my 6' 1" frame. The rumble seat gutter was missing one of the corner triangle sheet metal pieces that has the lid bumper in it. I made up the new corner piece out of thick sheet metal, spot welded it in place, turned a matching nutsert on my lathe, and installed it in the corner piece. . I used my big vice to expand the skirt of the nutsert using a center from my lathe to start the skirt. Once it was expanded, the good old 3lb hammer finished flattening it out. Matches the other side and no one will ever know it's not original to car. Fit the lower metal under the rumble lid and will need to tweak it just slightly to lessen the gap in some area and widen them in others. Starting to look like a car again.
  25. 1 point
    Couple pics of my '63 Riviera.....401, custom interior, yadayadayada.......