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Showing most liked content on 10/08/2017 in all areas

  1. 9 points
  2. 9 points
    Took the Roadmaster out to the last big cars and coffee of the season. Temps in the 70s today and tomorrow, first snow storm of the season on Monday. Had the Eldorado out too, just to enjoy the weather. Scott
  3. 5 points
  4. 4 points
    Hello Everyone, I am somewhat like the majority of the readers of this Website's Forum; who frequent other forums. I am certainly not a person who likes rules imposed upon me; but some format changes may be of help on here. I Read the rules for the forum; But maybe I am missing something; but I don't see any rules for this. On some other forums, if something is posted For Sale, to be accepted by the moderators; the For Sale AD must include a Price, Contact Info, Location, and may some Pics, if the poster can send pics. If the poster cannot send pics, I'm sure someone on here would help the poster get a pic on here. Other wise the ad will be pulled. Yes I have done my share of Fishing for a price, in some ads; but on here when a poster does not include the above info; the next few posting are What is the Price, Location, Contact info , and pics I know in my later years when someone contacts me; with something they are selling; if they don't even want to give a starting point; I pass on that deal. Too many times I have traveled too far, just to peg a price, on whatever. Then only to find out that after I was there, another buyer bought it. I am not trying to steal anything, but me giving a price has given the seller a starting point. With the advent of the computer; anyone can search and compare whatever they are selling, to something like it somewhere else. I welcome other points of view on this subject. intimeold
  5. 4 points
    I went to the Hershey meet. Drove the "73 GS Stage 1 4 speed off the trailer to the show and back. Maybe 5 miles total. :-) The car won a First Junior Award. It was the first time out for the car since it's restoration. Lot's of beautiful Buicks at the show.
  6. 4 points
    I just drove 10 miles through the darkness here in Hershey in a '41 Buick with 6-volt electricals and original bulbs and found them to be adequate for the car's modest performance. You might look into the halogen bulbs available through several vendors (there's a thread on it here somewhere) or maybe even converting to sealed beam. I converted my taillights to 6V LEDs and had good results, too. The 12-volt conversion is almost always more trouble than it's worth and will probably diminish the value of the car. If you don't like the lights getting dim at idle, then an alternator might be a good idea, but a properly regulated generator should have no problem keeping up with your headlights. It'll discharge at stop lights, but it'll top itself up again once you start driving. Don't sweat that part. A 12-volt conversion is not a solution to a problem you're having. It's an invitation for new problems you don't have yet.
  7. 3 points
    Here are some new pics from the Charlotte Auto Fair this September.... I think it looks pretty dag-gum good all around...
  8. 3 points
    Thought I would add a few pics of our Select Sixty from the Charlotte Auto Fair 2017!!
  9. 3 points
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  12. 2 points
    Price and location are not just common sense but common courtesy as well. I think we all know what it means when no price is listed, $$$$$$! And, yes I agree, most other sites I'm on insist price be included in the listing. I would like to see that here as well.
  13. 2 points
    1940, unrestored, original paint (what's left). Other than a re-wire & recovered seats; all original spec.
  14. 2 points
    Yes, 12v bulbs exist. They exist in both standard incandescent and halogen. I believe LED also exist. Offhand, Restoration Supply https://www.restorationstuff.com/ have the incandescent ones. #2326, #2336, and #13007-12. I cant seem to find my bookmarks for the others. The same suppliers who have 6v also have 12v IIRC. Edit: Here's the 12v halogens (6v too) http://www.lbcarco.com/cgi-bin/gen5?runprog=lbcnews&page=/halogen.html Well... no What "pre-focused" means is that the filaments are in a specific location with regard to the base. This means you can put a new bulb in without having to focus the light. Designs like this have a ring around the base to locate the bulb. Yes, perfectly parabolic reflectors are common (not on the 37 Buick, but I'll get back to that). Headlight designs generally have to have the reflectors and lenses designed around where the light is. "Where the light is" includes whether the filament is oriented side to side or front to back. The lit filament is sort of a cylinder shaped spot of light. To dip the beam in a parabolic reflector, you move the filament out of focus, or off of the center point. How this is done varies. Generally speaking there are 2 common types. One has the filaments running side to side, and has the low beam filament out of focus in the up/down direction. The other type has the filaments running front to back, and the low beam is out of focus in the front/back direction. The reflector and lens is then designed around where the light is. The 37 Buick, and the old American sealed beam, are both examples of the first type. The European H4 is an example of the second. I sort of cringe when I see H4 sockets behind stock lenses in old American cars. Some people have reported good results with this, but the low beam filament is nowhere near where it was when the designer designed the lens and reflector. I would expect the result to be fairly random. There were 2 types of these prefocused bulbs on American cars. There was the one that fits Buicks, Chevys, Fords, etc. (#2320, #2330, etc in 6v), and one for Mopars, Nashes, Hudsons, etc (#2321 in 6v). There isn't much difference, just enough that it wont work, maybe pin orientation or something. There is also a standard for motorcycles that was used well into the 70s and maybe even more recently. This one is called "American Pre-Focus" or "APF". I believe this to be directly interchangeable with the Buick-Chevy-Ford bulbs. The only obvious difference is that these motorcycle bulbs have both filaments the same size (prewar car bulbs had a dimmer low beam sometimes, but not always), and are rated in watts rather than the candlepower used on cars. This motorcycle stuff comes in both 6 volts and 12 volts in a wide range of wattages, the only restriction is that the low and high are always the same wattage. I believe many vendors are selling these for Buick-Chevy-Ford. All I have bought recently have been new production, and the quality varies wildly. (I have not bought any from the link above). Halogen retrofit bulbs exist with the filaments in the right place but you have to look harder. I believe the car ones are the same as motorcycle. The 37 Buick uses a system called "Guide Multibeam". The reflectors are not perfectly parabolic. If you take a close look, especially around the edge, you will see it is a contoured reflector. The bulb is also probably not quite centered. The lenses have a left and a right and are designed to work with these reflectors. On more modern cars, with sealed beam headlights, or H4, or basically anything else, on low beam the light shines up one side of the road further than the other to maximize visibility while not blinding the oncoming drivers. A single headlight does this as well as two. The Guide Multibeam is different. The lenses and reflectors are designed so that the one on the left side has a sharp cutoff up-down(!) on the left side, and the right headlight has a similar cutoff on the right side. The lights are aimed so they cross each other (yes, really). When you beam down for oncoming traffic, only the right headlight (which is shining into the left lane) beams down. The headlight switch on the dash has 4 positions. 1) off 2) parking lights 3) city beam or low 4) country beam or high. The dimmer switch engages "passing beam". This is not for passing as a modern driver might suspect, it is for meeting oncoming cars, and is high beam on the left lamp and low beam on the right.
  15. 2 points
    Greetings from Hershey! Rather than pay for parking, Melanie and I just used the '41 Super convertible as our daily transportation around town. Never missed a beat and even the wipers worked surprisingly well during the brief rain shower Thursday night. I shocked more than a few people by simply being able to reach in, turn the key, and hit the button and the car would start with no additional assistance, and then would proceed to idle smoothly and silently. My favorite is putting it in 3rd gear and letting it idle along--it's silent enough to sneak up on people. Maybe I should tie a can to it like the golf carts? Also great to meet all you forum members who stopped by to say hello, we always like putting faces to names!
  16. 2 points
    I totally agree. When there is no price, I just move on rather then waste my time. The way I look at it, I might have 20 years left on this earth and MY time is too valuable to waste on "fishing". I feel the same way about triflers............ but that is another topic.
  17. 2 points
    The war they call the “Great War” was about 100 years ago but that was WWI. But the younger generation doesn’t even know where it was fought as they don’t teach history in schools anymore! Sorry - Off the soapbox now.
  18. 2 points
    I don't want to ever again, either.
  19. 2 points
    Today was the first ever car show sponsored by the car club at the university. They called it 'Generations Collide'. It was pretty fun, although this trio showed up with 1930s trailer queen hot rods and just completely stole the show from others I felt were more deserving. When came time to leave, their cars barely ran.. it was quite interesting.
  20. 2 points
    Downtown for a brewery tour with 5 of us packed in...
  21. 2 points
    Friday October 6, 2017: Installation of the Rear windows Two days ago I installed the front windshield. That allowed me to get the wipers installed and I am ready (once the temperature gauge arrives!!) to install the instrument cluster and the dash. Tonight I installed the rear windows, so I'm ready to install the headliner this week. Couple of differences between the front windshield and the rear windows: Windshield: My crew for the front windshield had a combined age of 158 years! (Pretty cool these guys are still "wrenching"!) We used soapy water, a bone tool and a metal hook with a ball at the end to pull the seal out and over the pinch weld. (Old School!) Rear Windows: My crew tonight has a combined age of 29 years. (16 and 13...gotta start sometime!) We used silicone, a thin plastic interior tool and a string to pull the seal out over the pinch weld. Although both methods yielded the same result, personally, I found that tonight was MUCH easier! Maybe it's just easier to seat the rear windows. It didn't take but 5 minutes to get both windows in (once they were cleaned, wrapped in the rubber, string.....) Here's the series of photographs: Tonight's tool box Clean the glass I soaked the gaskets in warm - to - hot soapy water to clean them and make them a little more flexible and pliable. I was able to give them a little stretch, and clean / dry the grooves with paper towels. Now you have to get this over that glass. I started with the factory seam in the center of the bottom surface. Get it going, and then some pulling and tugging and it will go on. Double check that you have them on correctly with the seal to the outside I first sprayed a little silicone into the seal groove. The string will absorb this and make it easier to pull the string out later. Begin running the string simultaneously from the upper center down the sides... To finally "criss - cross" at the bottom and I ran the string up the sides a bit to keep it stable. Here's the first piece of glass ready for installation And here's my crew!!!! Start by lifting the glass into position, getting the lower seal to jump over the pinch weld first. I used this thin plastic interior tool to carefully lift the seal over the pinch weld and the window literally slipped down into position. From the inside and outside, we put downward pressure on the glass to seat it. As the boys kept the downward pressure, I began pulling the string out. Here you can see the criss-cross at the bottom. So, as I slowly pulled the string out along the left (my left) edge, the boys pushed the glass toward the outside (my right, away from my work area) It seemed to allow the seal to slide out from under easier. So they are giving the glass a little shove to their left while I come up the center edge. Once I got to the top corner, I stopped and moved to the outside edge. So, again, while I was pulling here, the boys were pushing the window toward the center. Once the string was up and over the top corners, a little downward pressure on the glass and the string easily withdraws from the top edge. Cleanup was also much easier. It took close to 45 minutes to clean all that soap off the window, the paint and out from the gasket. Here, I sprayed Windex and wiped it off the glass. Fin I am so thankful that I have guys like John and Bob who know and teach all the "old school" (their words, not mine!) methods. Installing the glass has allowed me to experience two different techniques, so I figured I'd take the time to show the string method as well. Do what works for you, I don't think there is a right or wrong way. As always, THANKS for following along! Have a great weekend! Gary
  22. 2 points
    I purchased this Case Car. It was delivered to me Sat the 30 of Sept 2017. It is everything they said it was. I am very happy with it. I like em original. I post time to time as things transpire. I have a Model 10-18 Case Tractor , {little green one},Year 1918 to finish first. The larger running tractor is a LH Case known as a Hesselman Diesel , of of three known. Also just bought that Dodge CNT900 in the background with a 855 Cummins and a 13 speed. It doesn't need any fixing. Thanks to Mr Kelly Barnett for the Heads Up on this Car.
  23. 2 points
  24. 1 point
    As a first time poster but a 20 year+ member of the AACA and a long time "reader" of this great forum, I thought as I was removing this car I should take a couple of pics(hope they came thru) of a car I removed from my fathers barn the other day. I know people are still amazed at what people have stored away, and hoping for some of these interesting cars to see the light of day again. My father a long time collector has bought and sold 100s of cars when he could buy them for under $50,(in the 60s) and kept some of the more interesting ones with the hope of doing something with them one day. But as with many of collectors time catches up with you and you don't realize that you are not 40 anymore and still have all these cars that you are "going to get to one day" but are not. My father is in his early 80's and is still attending old car events in his 1911 Model T or his 1933 Studebaker, has with the passing of all his younger sibling realized that it is finally time to be a little more proactive in selling off a some of his cars. Being proactive for him is allowing me to start with one car and get it out of the barn and see about advertising to sell. The car in the pictures is a 1920 JI Case 7 passenger touring. With some of these more lesser known make it is hard to find much(good) information on or even who I can contact for some help. I have spent lots if time with my friend google the last few nights but it is a lot different looking up info on a Case automobile then info for a Model A or 55 Chevy. With the vast knowledge on this forum is there a member who can assist me with some info or even some direction for a contact, any help or info would be greatly appreciated. If anyone has any question I will respond as quickly as I can, I have lots more pics too if everyone would like to see more and /or I can take more as it is sitting in my shop at my home now. Thanks Jeff C, Ontario Canada
  25. 1 point
    Looks like a great project, thanks for sharing it with us!
  26. 1 point
    All screw heads have been mudded with first layer.Starting the joint tape process with my first layer. Only had time to do one wall.Until the next weekend...
  27. 1 point
  28. 1 point
    I thought it might be the IHOP kitchen uniform.
  29. 1 point
    Actually GM bumpers for the most part from the 50's especially on Pickups were driver quality. Most have been over restored over the years so no one knows what an original one looked like. I sell NOS parts and can tell you they were made by union workers collecting a pay check. They weren't made by restoration experts that will spend hours polishing them to get every flaw out. The originals had stamp marks, scratches from being handled before packaging or on the assembly line. I've seen chrome from gorgeous show quality to rough cast marks and imperfections with what looks like I call 50's appliance chrome on them, like you see on a 50's table set. A shiny reflective surface that you can barely make the image out in when staring at it. You are stressing too much over it. Just find ones that guys have used that seem to not have the plating flake off. Mine came from LMC truck, but that was 15 years ago.
  30. 1 point
    I will admit to being a fan of the P1 Springfield Rolls, more than most people know. As to the comment this car is in the top ten, yes I agree, and would argue it's in the top five. And on that list it's at or near the top. I have driven about twenty Springfield cars over the years, and few are properly sorted. Having driven just about every CCCA platform and most of the chassis on the list, I can report quite simply there is NOTHING like a Springfield Rolls for refined motoring, NOTHING. I consider myself fortunate to be one of the caretakers of this car. It's a pure joy to drive.
  31. 1 point
    Al, here's a few more pictures of my coupe. The red door panels are probably 60 years old I would guess. I haven't looked under to see whats left of the originals. The pull out control knob at the side of the steering column is for the overdrive. It's out of a 37 Chrysler 6. Looks like I lied about the mileage. It's just gone over 89000! Scott, like you I have another. It's a 34 convertible coupe. Ken
  32. 1 point
    Dave, 1/2 the 39 & 40 cars were 120's but the other 1/2 were 180 senior chassis. I've done lots and lots of miles driving the later and it is a great car to drive. I will agree with you that underneath there is some crude workmanship, i.e. hammer marks everywhere. On the Cord, I think the mechanical reputation scares people away in much the same way it does on the PI Rolls. However, a properly sorted Cord is a dream to drive and a blown car is really a blast. As for the market, the sky has been following for a long time. However, I agree there are demographic trends that are not great as a whole. I felt the Hershey Auction felt soft on many prices. The Silver Arrow was 1 million less than the last one that sold. Could be for lots of reasons, the last one was the actual auto show car, etc. But still...
  33. 1 point
    It took me at least a week to get one of mine loose. I had pressure on it the whole time. Came back and gave it a whack with a long-handled, sledge hammer and, "pop".
  34. 1 point
    C'mon over and help me with MY brakes....
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    Ronnie should have said the BUICK 7 spoke wheels. Those Buick [and Cadillac] wheels have the best chrome I have ever seen on wheels. They look great and are very inexpensive when buying from a yard. Glad he [and I] bought them!
  37. 1 point
    Back when I was younger, the drive was the tour. We used to get a pony keg, strap it in the middle of the back seat, and head off for the day's adventures. Can't do that any more. The back seats just aren't big enough.
  38. 1 point
    Yes. Basics: The definition of work is force times distance (W = F * D). I am using a programmer's notation where the "*" indicates multiplication. The definition of power is work divided by time (P = W / T). Since work is force times distance and speed is distance divided by time (P = F * D / T) and speed is distance divided by time (S = D / T), you can consider power to be force times speed (P = F * S). The forces you are working against to move a vehicle forward (forgetting internal losses in the engine and transmission, just considering the vehicle size and shape, road and air) are rolling resistance and wind resistance. Call the rolling resistance Fr and the wind resistance Fw Rolling resistance (Fr) is reasonably constant but depends on vehicle weight, wheel and tire design, etc. Wind resistance (Fw) goes up as the square of the speed. I've forgotten all the theory behind why it is the square but theory was based on lots of wind tunnel and other real world observations. The general equation is Fw = Cd * A * S * S where Cd is a measured "coefficient of drag" that makes the units work and accounts for the force values found when testing. "A" is the frontal area and "S" is the speed. The vehicle frontal area and shape don't usually change with speed so consider them constants. Instead of writing "S * S", the usual notation is S2. If speed is the goal, you'll notice faster vehicles usually have a small frontal area and a fast looking shape (i.e. low coefficient of drag). If you plug vehicle forces into the power equation you get P = (Fw + Fr)*S = ((Cd x A x S2) + Fr) * S. Above a fairly low speed the wind resistance dominates the equation so you can forget about the rolling resistance and you get P = Cd * A * S2 * S = Cd * A * S3 All of this is for a steady speed. If you want to consider how fast the vehicle can accelerate then there is a whole different set of equations that can be dominated by vehicle weight.
  39. 1 point
    I ended up making my own gasket for my door mirror out of a sample piece of composite floor tiling and a piece of black foam drawer liner. The foam is to provide a molded cushion between the door and the tile material. I used a 1/2" hole drill to drill out the remote control cable hole in the tile and a small drill bit to drill out the base mount screw holes. Unless you are looking directly at the mirror base you can't tell the gasket isn't stock. It's not perfect but it will do until I can find a stock gasket, (if one exists).
  40. 1 point
    much much smaller-no comparison.
  41. 1 point
    Early 55s had a center fill actually.
  42. 1 point
    I drove the Reatta about 6 km today after the transmission pan gasket was replaced to deal with the leak. Not much, but it counts. It's supposed to be nice here Sunday and Monday so I may retire it for the season after a wash and fill.
  43. 1 point
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  45. 1 point
    The Lemay Collection at Marymount. I visited there at the invitation of a volunteer a few weeks ago - Mike met me in a Model T - drove me around the property- - then gave me a guided tour. He would visit there once a year as a kid on the day it was opened to the public. Now he is a volunteer - one of many who continue Harold’s passion for automobiles. Only (3) paid staff - the rest are volunteers. I am on the road just about every day - I have visited every of the lower 48 states. There is nothing like it ...... Jim
  46. 1 point
    thank you all for your help Ken
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    This description from a Bentley FB page: "Outside the Rembrandt Hotel Kensington, December 2, 1945. The Bentley behind the Mercedes 540K looks like Woolf Barnato's Speed Six Coupe CJ3811. The Mercedes was also owned by Barnato apparently." vintageracecar.com July 1, 2015 has an article about this. I don't have a subscription to see what it says. If anyone knows who the photographer was, where this was originally published or knows where a high resolution image can be found, please let me know.
  49. 1 point
  50. 1 point
    I don't see why this car couldn't be an easy fix. Most of the items that are listed are not drivability issues. The tires would be the first item to be taken care of. Then the ABS if the red brake light is not on, then everything else can be done a little at a time. If I didn't already have a S60 I would buy ;the car. Somebody will get a great deal