Popular Content

Showing most liked content on 04/07/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    The point is: 'there are limited ways to decorate a jelly bean.'
  2. 4 points
  3. 3 points
  4. 3 points
  5. 3 points
    Sorry Ed, although I myself have been known to use it, that sentimental ploy of "like dad had when I was a kid" ain't working here. The '38 has a new and long term owner. It is actually more than satisfying my longtime desire for a late 20's/early 30's roadster. Now to find that original condition unmolested first gen Riviera....
  6. 3 points
    'Numbers matching' (aka drivetrain originality) is only one of many factors to consider when contemplating a classic car purchase. For me, I wouldn't immediately ignore a car with non-original engine, however, it does make me wonder what happened to the car that led to that event. If the car was neglected to the point that the engine failed what does that say about the rest of the car? On the other hand, when it comes to Lotto -- matching numbers is important!
  7. 3 points
    I think I can't un-see that. lol
  8. 3 points
    When I think of the cr.p I have breathed in over the years, I shudder. Though of course I am much more careful in recent years. I too am still healthy, and hopefully will still be for many years. Keith
  9. 3 points
    Currently the Bradshaw Group and still selling Chevrolet's and Buick's in Utah
  10. 2 points
    Free, you pay postage, which when I bought them 3-4 years ago was around $20 from PA to GA. I think there are like 10 of the big full size and 12 of the small. They all have the wires that hold the magazines in and are in good shape except having been written on with magic marker by the previous owner. I no longer need them as I restored and customized an old file cabinet with car door handles and painted in my fave color, Buick Engine Green.... Respond here then pm me if you want them
  11. 2 points
    On my 37 Special with a 52 263 engine the Stromberg 2bbl carburetor has loaded it's last straw on me so it's on it's way to carburetor heaven and a Rochester 2GC is going to be the new go to unit. Carb is off a 265 Chevy V8 so engine size matches up but they made millions of 2GC's over at least 20 years so parts are everywhere and cheap. I WILL NOT miss the vacuum start switch and will go push button or key start. Originality with me takes a back seat since the car gets driven many miles a year and parts availability if way more important than if it has the correct parts number or color paint. If any non purists are interested I'll make a photo record of the swap.
  12. 2 points
    Look carefully at your shop manual pictures and take note of the detailing of the shoe, this will tell you what shoes are correct. When I put Roadmaster 2.5 inch-wide brakes on my Super (1954), I ran into the same problem with aftermarket shoes. A slightly different detailing on the bottom made the adjuster hang up a bit and not function right. The discrepancy at the top should probably be adjusted out at the locator pin, which slides up and down. See your FSM for details. Roadmaster 2.5 shoes are harder to come by, they sold a lot less Roadmasters in the day. All other models had the 2.25. My advice, grab two pair of Roadmaster shoes off your closest parts cars, and send them for relining to a shop in your area. Keep one set as spares.
  13. 2 points
    I told the guy that VIN , Engine and Trans numbers didn't match before 1958. He dismissivly said that his numbers matching claim wasn't directed towards me, but to someone else in the thread. (From which , I inferred that I should mind my own business) And that his Engine and Trans numbers DID match. I thanked him for teaching me something about Buicks that I didn't know.
  14. 2 points
    The Corvette guys are fanatical out numbers matching justifiably because many parts on those cars were numbered and were specific to the year of their manufacture. My numbers matching concern on the '40 is that the engine is actually a '41, but the correct size. The car will run with that engine, and probably look just fine. Upon sale of the car (as my ashes blow with the wind) I seriously doubt my descendants will get a nickle more for the car if I spent thousands more installing a proper serial numbered '40 engine. On that note, I will be satisfied that all the parts combined will give the car the appearance of a 1940 Buick.
  15. 2 points
    Shucks,I new you would get hooked on that beauty,looks like Helen and Elvira will be sticking around.When I get my Riv back on the road,I'm am going to make a road trip down to see your Buick farm later this summer.
  16. 2 points
    Reminds me of a piece of "course excrement"
  17. 2 points
    Well thank you Pilgrim, thank you very much. Seriously though, let's not forget, Mr Earl didn't do it alone, if it wasn't for Ned Nickles, would we even have the portholes or sweepspears or the 63 Riviera for that matter? I think not. Not to take anything away from my namesake, but Harley's entire design and engineering team back in the late forties thru the very early sixties i.e. Ned Nickles, Bill Mitchell, Charlie Chayne, Harlow Curtice and others deserve a lot of credit for making Buick's styling what it was and still is today! Just sayin
  18. 2 points
    For many less-versed in these matters than we are, I think "numbers matching" means that a 1955 Buick, for example, has a 1955 engine which can be verified by the engine number. Some fine points in 1946-48 Cadillacs (and I think '41-'42 as well), the engine number stamped in the block was preceded by the series number (61-62-60S-75) in which originally installed. So if I were looking at a 1947 convertible, available only in the 62 series, and it had some other series' engine number--or the wholly different surplus tank engine number, that could be a factor in the price
  19. 2 points
    That looks like a Delco solenoid to me. Is it? On a Chrysler? ALMOST everything on that solenoid is rebuildable. The adjustment on the front just sets the pinion depth. There should be a spec in the manual for that. The copper disc has a little spring so that it can bottom out on the copper bolts a little before the solenoid bottoms out. Copper discs if not available can often be taken off and turned upside down. Copper bolts often have half of the heads burned off. They can be replaced. If not available sometimes they can be turned around backwards to get the full height back around the side that contacts the disc. The only thing that cant be fixed is a bad winding. There are 2 windings, check continuity on each of the two windings. I would really need to see the manual to tell you more. Is there a relay inside the cover? If so, look for one winding to be from one of the relay contacts to one of the copper bolts on the solenoid. The other one should be from the same relay contact but to ground. If the windings are good, you can rebuild it. If not, its gonna be expensive. Good luck.
  20. 2 points
    And then beat the hell out of him!
  21. 2 points
    I have a Buick Parts Book that shows the location of the holes for mounting the exterior mouldings and retainers. There are very few dimensions but it shows the approximate locations, the fasteners and all the part numbers for these. The best thing would be to locate another of the same model and year of your car and take some measurements and photos. However, I think these drawings may be of help to you. Please send me the model of the 53 Buick you have and your email and I will scan the page and email it to you. Joe, BCA 33493
  22. 2 points
    We put a Jeep axle from the 90s and it was almost a bolt in. We even hooked up the ebrake and just modified the rear end connection drive shaft. 3.70s something gears and does 65-70 al day long and goes great in our mountainous area that we live in. 1939 Plymouth Coupe with the stock engine. It was a column shift and we converted it to a floor shift.
  23. 2 points
  24. 2 points
  25. 2 points
    Another ride to a local show last weekend at Miami Lakes, FL. "Almendrón" took another unexpected first class trophy in it class.
  26. 1 point
    Dash board, steering wheel, column and glove box doors all painted and reinstalled. Sent all the dash pieces from my '38 P-6 in for replating. Gauge surround, ash tray handle and face, radio escutcheon and 6 narrow horizontal bars. 6 went out......only 5 came back. I know all six have different part numbers. I will have to determine which one is missing.
  27. 1 point
    You can go to reatta.net and read how-to repair your power antenna and do it yourself, but the parts are no longer available from GM and they were not that good to begin with. Today I use a steel cable with a plastic coating that should last for years. I charge $60 to repair your antenna plus $15 return shipping. They are disassembled, cleaned, inspected, repaired as needed and tested. I can straighten bent mast IF they are not kinked or dented...if you need a replacement mast there is a $20 charge. I take checks and Paypal......send me a PM and I will give you shipping instructions and/or answer questions. I can repair most other GM power antenna on your other collector cars.
  28. 1 point
    http://www.foxnews.com/auto/2017/04/07/twin-1987-buick-grand-nationals-parked-for-years-uncovered-in-dirty-garage.html The story says it all. Mr Earl, was this you?
  29. 1 point
    Just think of all the time they spent at the factory sanding out the car body and chassis with 400 + grit paper so you wouldn't see any sand or production marks.
  30. 1 point
    The top coat is chrome but there is always nickel under it and possibly copper under that. Chrome pre war looks different that current chrome. They didn't have to deal with eco-friendly back then.
  31. 1 point
    One of each is best. After 30 years decide which one you drive the most and sell the other. OR sell the one you wore out over 30 years. I'm pretty flexible.
  32. 1 point
    I think the S10 chassis conversion doesn't work on these cars. They never look right, or at least they always look like a 1940s car sitting on a cheap truck chassis. My 49 would cruise along ok at 55, but 65 felt like you were pushing it. The best solution is the factor overdrive, you see them every now and then. Figure 1500 bucks with the dash handle. If we are talking non-factory then there are conversion kits for the T10 and that would be my next choice.
  33. 1 point
    My grandparents house in Mansura, Louisiana ( a small map dot ) had a system like this in a small side building next to the house. As can be assumed from the name, it was only for lighting in the house. I remember as a very young kid seeing the two wires (uninsulated if I remember correctly) coming down the wall to a switch in each room, for turning on/off the overhead lights. My grandfather was, relatively speaking for this small town, fairly well off to afford such a luxury....I was a late child, he was born in the 1880's and died in 1948, before I was born...my grandmother lived until 1960, so it was only she living there that I remember....
  34. 1 point
    I don't think that this is your problem, Reg, but I'll mention the ground cable, only because when those do go bad, or the connection where it bolts to the engine or frame goes bad, they can look fine, but have too much resistance for a high draw item like a starter to work. You guys are going to think I'm nuts, but years ago I had one old Mopar that would act up in moist weather and the only way I could get the starter to function was to put on the headlights first to help create a circuit. It took a while to figure out it was the ground cable.
  35. 1 point
    Good for you. When it's time to go....it's time to go!
  36. 1 point
    Check here:http://annebobroffhajal.com/category/mysteries-of-my-grandfather/my-grandfathers-all-american-inventions/ Howard Dennis
  37. 1 point
    I vote for lock wire. I have a similar filter on the 3.0L MerCruiser engine in my boat. I wired the nut on that puppy!
  38. 1 point
    A 1915 Oakland is hardly a car that could be easily sold for a quick pay day. A thief that would steal a car like this probably had a plan before it was stolen. He probably either had a deal for parts or someone who would buy the entire car. In my opinion, the most likely fate for the intact/complete car would be that it was shoved into a shipping container and shipped overseas. That's the way it was done in Miami, Florida, either through the Port of Miami or the Port of the Miami River. Damn the thieving bastard anyway, Grog
  39. 1 point
    The rad isn't that old, it was recored with a modern high density core about 5 years ago, just before I put it on the road. The original was not savable, it was like a sieve after the cleaning, so I opted for the newer style of core as it cools better. This was just maintenance. The shop that did it has done much work for me over the years and I've always been happy with the results. Keith
  40. 1 point
    By all means try taking apart the solenoid. I used to have good results by cleaning up the large copper washer and the mating stud surfaces. You may find better results by simply rotating the washer 90 degrees and the studs 180. If you are able to rotate them, you'll have fresh contact surfaces.
  41. 1 point
    Disc brakes need much more pressure to stop the car because it's a clamp, and not a self energizing radial brake like a drum. Drums apply pressure to the outer most part, obviously, of the drum, while caliper pads apply pressure at different radii. It just needs the added oomph of power brakes to really clamp down hard. Also you're going with discs now, Matt? My only advice is stick with the original power brake cylinder and don't try to upgrade it. I've been down that road and nothing works for the under dash units. The space is too tight, the bore is not right and the pedal ratio is too small. I did this when I first started my Buick, and have found that when properly set up, drums and original equipment works best.
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    OK, here is an update ( 1 year later) on above post on May 19, 2016. The above pics reflect the car when I purchased it with the 20" rims. Those went and I put some wildcat rally rims on it. And then I lowered it 3" all around. The car rides extremely nice for a lowered car. It is a little bouncy, but the suspension handles it nicely. I ended up putting on 215/75/15 tires. No rubbing problems at all. I had the front end aligned as in my original post. Handles and steers perfect. I did replace the rubber bushings on the rear panard bar and it made a substantial improvement in handling and steering. A big improvement! I used the stock Monroe shocks. No need to get different shocks, even with the 3 in drop. The front shocks, in my opinion, could be improved upon by being a bit stiffer. I think it would improve it degree of bounciness a bit. It's not bad at all, and it is what you get with a lowered car. I like the ride. I used the stock spring insulators that were on the car. Work fine. No metal to metal noise. The car height is about 6.75 inch to the bottom of the rocker panel all the way around...front and back...as measured from behind the front wheel and in front of the rear wheel. The front crossmember , which is the lowest part of the frame, is 4" off the ground. And no, I do not scrape. I drive the car a lot and I don't baby it. Regarding the exhaust, I tucked in up along the frame rails, removed the 2 mufflers and put an 1800 series Flowmaster mounted crossways in front of the rear end. 2 in and 2 out, with a nice set of chrome tips barley showing below the rear bumper. It sounds super cool....sort of a Harley rumble and Chris Craft mixed. No drone on the road either. The Riv puts a smile on my face. I enjoy the 401 and dynaflow combo. I have a few more tweaks to do, but for me, working on the car is a much fun as driving it!
  44. 1 point
    I have a question for the other '41 owners out there. I have had the rad out for a shop boil out, and I'm adding an electric fan for additional air flow in slow driving, and doing a few other things at the same time. Isn't it always the way. One thing leads to another, and it always takes longer then one hopes! So here's my question, I have a curved piece of steel, maybe about 8" high, that I think mounts in behind grille, does anyone know where it belongs? I missed putting this on when I put the car together. I don't have a picture of it, but hopefully some one knows what I mean? I can post a picture of it tomorrow. Also, I have the axle which has the 3.4 ratio in it at a local shop which specializes in vintage car work. They are pulling the old gears and checking it all out. Then I'm taking the car out to them to do the swap. Since I usually do all of my own work, I feel a bit odd farming this out. But I really want to get this done, and I have not been able to get around to it. Too much other stuff going on my life lately. Thanks. I will post more details on the work later on. Keith
  45. 1 point
    A good old time starter generator re-builder would know very quickly whats up with your starter. You need really good heavy battery cables and an Excellent ground to the body and the engine. Do you hear both a click and a heavier clunk ( solenoid pulling the drive gear into the flywheel) ? Those solenoids of that style can be taken apart to quickly see whats the issue. Could possibly be the large diameter copper contact washer to Motor and Battery cable stud wear issue. Meaning No power to the starter windings or a pinion gear adjustment. That solenoid if found will cost dearly....they are hard to find... I think a # SS4206 Autolite.... not even saying that's the problem More diagnostics required!
  46. 1 point
    Should we consider Rita an "enabler" of these antics? John
  47. 1 point
    Smokin and drinkin in the '38!??? Flying DD flew in an aeroplane!! TOO!! Oh my, what's this world coming to?????????? Way cool! Guys!
  48. 1 point
    Start by knocking out the core plugs and cleaning out the block. Most of the crud collects in the block and pulling the head is not the way to clean the block. You need big holes to get inside, not the water passages between the block and head. There is really only one way to clean a block out and that is mechanically. There is no particular mechanical talent needed. Just pure dirty grunt work and a large dose of patience. Don't stop with the job half done. Dig out ALL the crud. Buick straight eights were famous for plugged water passages in the block. In the dealership I worked in in the 60's the mechanics pulled the rad and sent it to the rad shop to be boiled out and then they mechanically cleaned out the block. Some engines had five and up to ten pounds of crud in the water jackets. Go back to AACA GENERAL DISCUSSION and search "buick overheating". There are 242 postings about this problem. If you read them all you will see that owners did every possible thing to the rads, changed fan blades and in the end the only totally satisfactory way is through the core holes. If you doubt where your engine is plugged buy and infrared thermometer and check all the areas of you engine. The only reason the rad gets plugged is because little bits of the crud in the block circulate until the hit a passage that they cannot get through. A clean rad will only stay that way if the block is also clean.
  49. 1 point
    The weekend went well as did the Buick on the 120 mile outward bound trip. Arriving at the 1910's Carrington Hotel I rounded the car park, heading toward the entrance to find a '41 Buick already parked outside! The night of was a lot of fun with a '20s band followed by drinks and a gramophone on the veranda late into the night. I took the trip home a little more cautiously as the weather was hot (110F) and humid. The Buick soldiered passed lots of overheated modern cars but I stopped a few times along the way to give her a chance to cool off a bit and grab a drink or three. Till the next weekend and the next Buick trip!
  50. 1 point
    Stolen from another thread here but this looks like a fine tool to have around..