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Showing most liked content on 03/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 15 likes
    Saturday was my grandmother's birthday, so I took the car out to visit her. She supposedly drove it off the assembly line in Flint, Michigan. The car was ordered from the Kessler dealership in Detroit, and she went to go pick it up while my grandpa as on base. The odd thing is that it came with aftermarket mirrors, which I suppose were an afterthought by my grandfather. They later took the car and drove out west where they settled in 1958 and started their family. This is the first time I've driven the car out. Never thought about it before until now, so I made sure to thank her for not getting rid of it after all those years.
  2. 11 likes
    I bought the car in January. Anyone recognize her? Needs brake work but I'm happy so far.
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    Took a mulligan Mr. Earl. Another 70 degree day in Colorado, top down, lunch at A & W.
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    I think the biggest endorphin rush is to stop at the end of each day and say "It is good." Try that for six days and then rest one. It's an old Irish tradition. Oh, this is endorphins: This is adrenaline: But it is all on a bias to stay with the topic. Bernie
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    A photo op of a neighborhood feed store near Golden, Colorado
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    Not mentioned above but if you drill the "inspection" hole in the torque tube, tap it and put a screw in it. Saves cleaning the garage floor. Ask me how I know....
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    Off topic here but back in '56, an appliance salesman demonstrated a Maytag washer to mom by balancing a cigarette on top of it while it was on spin cycle. My brother still has that washer and can still balance a cigarette on it. No baloney! Back to Buicks...
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    When you get the engine entirely assembled, Before you install the distributor, it is a good idea to prelube the engine and fill all the oil galleys by puting oil in the pan and making a tool to drive the oil pump (counter clockwise) until you see oil at the rockers - be sure to plug the oil pressure line fitting.
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    Gee, a show at a funeral home would be quite an undertaking!
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    Hello all. I recently bought a nice 1925 dodge sedan. I haven't done much more the. Start it and drive it off the trailer. Can I get some help from you guys on the dos and donts? I plan to mess around with it for a little while and then possibly let someone else enjoy it later on. Whats the the best way to know how to adjust the timing on the steering wheel? many thanks
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    I'm not a Buick guy (although we did have a 54 Skylark once) but I have to comment on this thread: 1. Your garage is awesome. How you are doing a full restoration on top of a rug is beyond my comprehension. 2. The detail and documentation in this thread is superior. Carry On.
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    Here is an engine dolly I built. I aslo ran the engine on it. Makes it easy tor roll around while the rest of the car is being done
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    Gary, You mentioned that the pan was tough to get off. Probably lots of old Permatex to make up for the deformed bolt holes ? A while ago we did a whole thread on "flattening your pan". FYI
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    LOL... Now THOSE are words of wisdom...
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    Bushings need to be reamed or honed to a slip fit with the pin. Back in the day every car store did this. You're probably going to have to look for a place that still does this. Welch plugs: drive a punch into it and pry out. Taper pin I would say drive towards peened end. The caveat is there's no telling what someone did in the past to booger them up. I totally agree with AAron65. If you can find a shop to do it drop them off and have a beer........................
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    Thanks for the kind words Jack, Here you go:
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    I bought my '60 Electra in 2002 and have put about the same mileage on it. The first set of Coker biased tires were worn enough to replace at 12,000 miles and I bought the same thing again and they have about 2,000 miles on those so far. I hope to buy another set of the same in ten years. I have no issues with the way it handles. It is a 1960. It drives like it should. The only time I drive like I have a screw loose is straight line accelerating and my speed buzzer is set at 80. It doesn't buzz hard but it clicks and burps once in a while. The summer before last there was an event in Utica that I left for early one Saturday morning. I am near Rochester. That is a 150 mile ride. I was driving through Rochester and still had not decided on using the NYS Thruway or RT 31, a secondary highway. That's how casual the decision was, I hit the Thruway and a couple hours later John D was able to see my dirty biased whitewalls. I came back the leisurely way and ended up with around 350 miles that day. 75 or 50, no big deal. Personally, I don't care for the look or the aspect ratio of radials and they don't fill the wheel wells or provide the stance I know I will get with the biased. Maybe the newer ones look different. I do know that every time I approach my car or walk away from it I like looking at it. If I took a chance and bought something different because of issue I haven't perceived yet or to save money, I know that every tine I looked at the car I would notice it was equipped with my second choice. And THAT ain't gonna happen. My Mother and my Grandmother liked their black Buicks. I remember a conversation about an Aunt who left her lights on and had a dead battery. My Mother said my aunt had a crappy looking car and if she had a nice one she would have looked back to admire it. Then she would have noticed the lights were on. There's a little insight on how I got the way I am. I run biased tires strictly for the endorphins. Bernie
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    IMHO anyone buying a collectable car should immediately order an operators manual, a shop manual and parts manual (no matter what they cost) if the vehicle has a semi-floating axle and wood artillery wheels the very next purchase should be a wheel puller that screws on to the wheel. If you don't need it right now you will eventually. The third item, If you have split rims (not multi piece rims) you should get the proper tool to unlock and collapse the rim in order to change a tire.
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    If you have ethanol in your gasoline it is possible that it is bad or that it has destroyed the diaphragm in your fuel pump. Obviously the engine is not getting fuel. All it is running on is the starting fluid. I personally would fill the float chambers with fresh gasoline and try to start the engine. If it starts it may run long enough to suck gas from the tank. If it only runs until the fuel in the carb is gone then your problem is between the tank and the carb. If you disconnect the fuel line at the pump you could blow back through the line to see if it was plugged. You could disconnect the line on the carb side of the pump and crank the engine over but this is/could be dangerous. You could have a fire in seconds. Back in 1960 I took a whole day to start a 53 special that had set for only three months (and that was when we had real gasoline). Good luck.
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    Painted the block tonight. I carefully covered all the block openings with blue painter's tape. It's amazing how nice it looks when everything is the same color. 2 coats??? So now I have to paint all the engine accessories to get ready for the final build. My plan going forward is to restore the master cylinder and do a complete brake job. Then replace all four chassis springs. After that, a nice coat of chassis black (POR-15). Then I'd like to install the engine back in the chassis as I feel it's a lot safer there.
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    I will be back in the garage tomorrow to finish the other side. I will be able to get all the dimensions then and post them.
  26. 3 likes
    Save yourself some grief and leave the pinion seal alone unless you disassemble to service other parts like bearings. A defective pinion seal will leak into the torque tube and will find a level below the driveshaft and will not cause problems other than a leak at the flange. A leak at the flange can be sealed with a bead of RTV. Just monitor the nature of the fluid in the torque tube with a plugged hole at the back.
  27. 3 likes
    I bought my 1982 S-10 on Dec. 18, 1981, and at that time I claimed "I`d never buy another new vehicle". I have just a little under 900,000mi on it, and still holding true to my word. Been thru a few engines, I keep a fresh engine in my living room, for when I need it, I can have going again in a couple days. I can fix anything wrong with my truck for less than one months payment on a new one. I haven`t had a car payment since 1983. I spend my money on my 30s cars.. Computerized cars and cell phone are not for me...
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    ’46 Buick-Super 8 model 51-4dr. Sedan $8900/obo Straight 8 cyl. Dyna Flash-valve inhead Engine No. 4697550 5 Black paint-all original condition. With service manual. Car was Marge Schott Buick vehicle with MSO for many years at dealership, used as parts/lunch running car then parked in showroom. Purchased at Marge Schott auction 2005. Cracked back passenger window. Last time seen running 2006. Good solid car. Style No. 46-4569 Body No. G 57738 Trim No. 52 Paint No. 4 Located in Mason, OH
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    So I emailed Jay Leno's agent this email last night along with the attached picture and surprisingly he forwarded it to a producer of Jay Leno's garage. I recieved a response that they will check! I have always wondered if Jay bought dad's Vette. I know it's a long shot though. This is my all time favorite car. I used to drive it to parades in High School and always wondered what happened to it. "Hello, I am Ed ******'s daughter. I know from my father's friends that he has met Jay at several car shows like Daytona and others. My father now has Alzheimer's. He sold a 1958 Corvette around 1983 to someone in CA and it looks just like the one Jay has. I have attached a picture of the one he had. I have been (unexpectantly) liquidating my father's car collection to pay for his care. I was just wondering if there was any way to find out if Jay bought his '58 from Ed ****** who was in NH at that time. I realize I may never hear back, but I couldn't live with myself if I didn't try to find out. I loved that car. It was my father's and my favorite. It would be really neat to find out where it is now, and even neater if it was indeed Jay's car. Thank you for any info you might be able to send. ~Victoria "
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    I didn't say that. Do the research. May need to talk to Mike Fuscik at Fuscik Olds (has Buick parts too). The 98 is a long wheelbase, but is still the narrow body like the Century and 88...not wide like the 55 Roadmaster and Caddy.
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    Put that hood ornament on a Packard and it turns Egyptian.
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    I am almost positive that the 1955 88 series would be the same as 1955 Century. Need to research body manuals and parts books for 1955 Olds.
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    Good to know...probably easier than patching with Elmer's Glue and tissue paper.
  34. 2 likes
    Look for grease contamination on the shoes. Some of this new brake shoe material seems to absorb moisture making the first few stops squirrelly. In addition to drive and adjust, make a lot of stops in reverse.
  35. 2 likes
    Ben, did you see this 6 x 9 repair kit? http://reconingspeakers.com/product/6x9-diy-aftermarket-recone-kit/
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    All else equal, the drums are what I would look at. Maybe a fresh turn to make the surfaces the same.
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    It does. It's a Maytag. The International refrigerator they bought to keep my my milk cold when I was born is still running too, now keeping my beer cold. Sorry for hijacking your thread Mud.
  38. 2 likes
    My buddy had a rear end spreader for an old dodge that worked like a charm. Didn't need to use the ole' tuba-fore method.
  39. 2 likes
    I looked on my wheels and didn't find any markings. Attached are a few pictures, which hopefully will help. The last one is the back of the side mount.
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    Gary, you are, in the vernacular of young folk today, a savage! You have accomplished in a few weeks what would take many of us the same number of months, or even longer! Best wishes and keep it rolling! Cheers, Dave
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    ’38 Buick Special 46C $44,500/obo model No. 38-46c 4 passenger convertible coupe (Rumbleseat) Straight 8 cyl. Dyna Flash-Valve in head 2006 frameoff resto-with service manuals. Car purchased ’97 in California. Late father did restoration but passed before completed. Have list of parts & work completed & photos. Needs few minor items to be complete. Car runs & drives perfect & smooth. Car was in 2013 scene in movie ‘Carol’ starring Cate Blanchett. She's a beautiful, vintage, & rare car. 122” wheelbase Style No. 38-4467 Body No. 549 Trim No. 443 G Paint No. 516 Located in Mason, OH PM if interested or email Hdbrat@ymail.com
  42. 2 likes
    One of the neatest things for removing a broken stud is left hand drill bits. They work just like regular bits (start small and increase the size several times) but because they cut counter clockwise every turn of the bit works on loosening the stud.
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    Kwik Poly is excellent for wood repairs, and can act as a "glue" if allowed to seep between joints. I would hesitate mixing a large quantity, as it hardens in minutes. The little cups they send with a kit are about right, to be able to brush on in the time before it starts to set (2 to 3 minutes after mixing at 70 degrees F or so). You can chill the liquid before hand and it will take longer to set. You can order it directly from manufacturer, they'll send it to you along with a bill and you pay by return mail. http://www.kwikpolyllc.com/ There are other liquid epoxies made for wood, mostly in the marine industry. I've used West System with good success, it will soak in, but takes a much longer time to harden. It probably does not soak in as well as the Kwik Poly. http://www.westsystem.com/ss/
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    First, be certain you have every other bolt out of that cover. The big block cars have a bolt tucked into the deepest recess near the oil pump. I am not sure if your 300 has that bolt, but it's virtually hidden on the big blocks. Next, if you have access to a trans dipstick on another car, heat that car to operating temperature, and then dribble some hot transmission fluid on the opening for the snapped off bolt. This should be done for a few days in a row, to give the fluid a chance to work in and deteriorate the bond between that broken bolt and the cover. Mostly, just take your time. If you rush it, you will lose that cover. If you give it a chance then you can likely save that cover.
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    Or try my method. Determine what you are willing to pay for a particular in Stock vehicle. Walk into the dealership, sit down with a sales person and tell them this. "I am here to buy this vehicle today. I am going to tell you what I am willing to pay. When I tell you my number your only response can be Yes or No. Any other response, even one word, and I walk. If you say No there will be no negotiation, I simply walk. If you say Yes then I will write you a check immediately". It's fun to do and has worked for me twice but maybe it worked because I actually offered too much.
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    Are you up to 30,000 models yet? http://www.freep.com/story/money/nation-now/2016/03/21/minnesota-house-of-cars/82075114/
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    When you get done figuring out all the Hemis Chrysler ever made for Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge you can work out the Polysphere versions of the same Hemi blocks, plus the Polysphere engines that never had a Hemi counterpart, then the raised deck Hemis and their Polysphere counterparts, then the Chrysler engines that were used in Dodge cars and trucks, the Dodge engines used in Plymouths, and the Canadian versions that were NEVER used in US made Dodge DeSoto or Chrysler cars but WERE used in certain Plymouths. When you get done figuring that out you can go to work on the flathead sixes and straight eights. Now, with the engines sorted out, you can figure out which transmissions were used with which engines in which years, and in which models of cars and trucks. I tried to organize a spreadsheet once but gave up in despair. I think I know most of the permutations and variations if I come at them one at a time but like I said before, you can go nuts trying to sort them all out at once.
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    I don't know if it will be any help, but I have a '79 LTC with a 400 engine. I was able to find an air cleaner hose for a '79 mustang that worked, but nowhere was it listed for a Lincoln. So... I am assuming they have the same engine or some of the same parts? I found my part by a search for a '79 Mustang with that part and looking at the images to find one that looked right. I ordered it with the understanding I could return if it didn't work, but it did.
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    Excellent news! Been patiently waiting for him to recover so I can get my center console leatherette, glad he's going to be back in business. Seems like a super nice guy from all correspondence I've had with him. Lucas