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Showing most liked content on 03/11/2017 in all areas

  1. 4 points
  2. 4 points
  3. 4 points
    Took a mulligan Mr. Earl. Another 70 degree day in Colorado, top down, lunch at A & W.
  4. 3 points
    I bought the car in January. Anyone recognize her? Needs brake work but I'm happy so far.
  5. 3 points
    Hello all. I recently bought a nice 1925 dodge sedan. I haven't done much more the. Start it and drive it off the trailer. Can I get some help from you guys on the dos and donts? I plan to mess around with it for a little while and then possibly let someone else enjoy it later on. Whats the the best way to know how to adjust the timing on the steering wheel? many thanks
  6. 3 points
    IMHO anyone buying a collectable car should immediately order an operators manual, a shop manual and parts manual (no matter what they cost) if the vehicle has a semi-floating axle and wood artillery wheels the very next purchase should be a wheel puller that screws on to the wheel. If you don't need it right now you will eventually. The third item, If you have split rims (not multi piece rims) you should get the proper tool to unlock and collapse the rim in order to change a tire.
  7. 3 points
    Gee, a show at a funeral home would be quite an undertaking!
  8. 2 points
    I think the biggest endorphin rush is to stop at the end of each day and say "It is good." Try that for six days and then rest one. It's an old Irish tradition. Oh, this is endorphins: This is adrenaline: But it is all on a bias to stay with the topic. Bernie
  9. 2 points
    LOL... Now THOSE are words of wisdom...
  10. 2 points
    I am almost positive that the 1955 88 series would be the same as 1955 Century. Need to research body manuals and parts books for 1955 Olds.
  11. 2 points
    Bushings need to be reamed or honed to a slip fit with the pin. Back in the day every car store did this. You're probably going to have to look for a place that still does this. Welch plugs: drive a punch into it and pry out. Taper pin I would say drive towards peened end. The caveat is there's no telling what someone did in the past to booger them up. I totally agree with AAron65. If you can find a shop to do it drop them off and have a beer........................
  12. 2 points
    I bought my '60 Electra in 2002 and have put about the same mileage on it. The first set of Coker biased tires were worn enough to replace at 12,000 miles and I bought the same thing again and they have about 2,000 miles on those so far. I hope to buy another set of the same in ten years. I have no issues with the way it handles. It is a 1960. It drives like it should. The only time I drive like I have a screw loose is straight line accelerating and my speed buzzer is set at 80. It doesn't buzz hard but it clicks and burps once in a while. The summer before last there was an event in Utica that I left for early one Saturday morning. I am near Rochester. That is a 150 mile ride. I was driving through Rochester and still had not decided on using the NYS Thruway or RT 31, a secondary highway. That's how casual the decision was, I hit the Thruway and a couple hours later John D was able to see my dirty biased whitewalls. I came back the leisurely way and ended up with around 350 miles that day. 75 or 50, no big deal. Personally, I don't care for the look or the aspect ratio of radials and they don't fill the wheel wells or provide the stance I know I will get with the biased. Maybe the newer ones look different. I do know that every time I approach my car or walk away from it I like looking at it. If I took a chance and bought something different because of issue I haven't perceived yet or to save money, I know that every tine I looked at the car I would notice it was equipped with my second choice. And THAT ain't gonna happen. My Mother and my Grandmother liked their black Buicks. I remember a conversation about an Aunt who left her lights on and had a dead battery. My Mother said my aunt had a crappy looking car and if she had a nice one she would have looked back to admire it. Then she would have noticed the lights were on. There's a little insight on how I got the way I am. I run biased tires strictly for the endorphins. Bernie
  13. 2 points
    Ben, did you see this 6 x 9 repair kit? http://reconingspeakers.com/product/6x9-diy-aftermarket-recone-kit/
  14. 2 points
    All else equal, the drums are what I would look at. Maybe a fresh turn to make the surfaces the same.
  15. 2 points
    If you have ethanol in your gasoline it is possible that it is bad or that it has destroyed the diaphragm in your fuel pump. Obviously the engine is not getting fuel. All it is running on is the starting fluid. I personally would fill the float chambers with fresh gasoline and try to start the engine. If it starts it may run long enough to suck gas from the tank. If it only runs until the fuel in the carb is gone then your problem is between the tank and the carb. If you disconnect the fuel line at the pump you could blow back through the line to see if it was plugged. You could disconnect the line on the carb side of the pump and crank the engine over but this is/could be dangerous. You could have a fire in seconds. Back in 1960 I took a whole day to start a 53 special that had set for only three months (and that was when we had real gasoline). Good luck.
  16. 2 points
    It does. It's a Maytag. The International refrigerator they bought to keep my my milk cold when I was born is still running too, now keeping my beer cold. Sorry for hijacking your thread Mud.
  17. 2 points
    My buddy had a rear end spreader for an old dodge that worked like a charm. Didn't need to use the ole' tuba-fore method.
  18. 2 points
    Off topic here but back in '56, an appliance salesman demonstrated a Maytag washer to mom by balancing a cigarette on top of it while it was on spin cycle. My brother still has that washer and can still balance a cigarette on it. No baloney! Back to Buicks...
  19. 2 points
    I will be back in the garage tomorrow to finish the other side. I will be able to get all the dimensions then and post them.
  20. 1 point
    ’46 Buick-Super 8 model 51-4dr. Sedan $8900/obo Straight 8 cyl. Dyna Flash-valve inhead Engine No. 4697550 5 Black paint-all original condition. With service manual. Car was Marge Schott Buick vehicle with MSO for many years at dealership, used as parts/lunch running car then parked in showroom. Purchased at Marge Schott vehicle estate auction 2005. Cracked back passenger window. Last time seen running 2006. Good solid car. Style No. 46-4569 Body No. G 57738 Trim No. 52 Paint No. 4 Located in Mason, OH
  21. 1 point
    ’46 Buick-Super 8 model 51-4dr. Sedan $8900/obo Straight 8 cyl. Dyna Flash-valve inhead Engine No. 4697550 5 Black paint-all original condition. With service manual. Car was Marge Schott Buick vehicle with MSO for many years at dealership, used as parts/lunch running car then parked in showroom. Purchased at Marge Schott auction 2005. Cracked back passenger window. Last time seen running 2006. Good solid car. Style No. 46-4569 Body No. G 57738 Trim No. 52 Paint No. 4 Located in Mason, OH
  22. 1 point
    So I emailed Jay Leno's agent this email last night along with the attached picture and surprisingly he forwarded it to a producer of Jay Leno's garage. I recieved a response that they will check! I have always wondered if Jay bought dad's Vette. I know it's a long shot though. This is my all time favorite car. I used to drive it to parades in High School and always wondered what happened to it. "Hello, I am Ed ******'s daughter. I know from my father's friends that he has met Jay at several car shows like Daytona and others. My father now has Alzheimer's. He sold a 1958 Corvette around 1983 to someone in CA and it looks just like the one Jay has. I have attached a picture of the one he had. I have been (unexpectantly) liquidating my father's car collection to pay for his care. I was just wondering if there was any way to find out if Jay bought his '58 from Ed ****** who was in NH at that time. I realize I may never hear back, but I couldn't live with myself if I didn't try to find out. I loved that car. It was my father's and my favorite. It would be really neat to find out where it is now, and even neater if it was indeed Jay's car. Thank you for any info you might be able to send. ~Victoria "
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    Does anyone have some good pics from a 1928 Master Six engine / engine bay? I would like to know how it looked like when the car left the factory. And/or a sketch about vacuum lines routing? Mine are routed somehow, with a modern (leaking!) plastic vacuum canister, mounted below dashboard. I have thrown the canister out of the car, but I don't think the routing from the manifold needs to be detoured below the dashboard? Except the one for the wiper of course. Or was there a vacuum canister factory installed? I have as well two lines going up to the wiper motor. One is connected through the wiper operating valve, the other one is "blind". Would appreciate to know how the system worked out of the factory. Thanks, Werner
  25. 1 point
    Yes, you have to remove it from the inside out. DO NOT attempt to pry it out from the front. All you will do is destroy the badge itself. Here is what I recommend. The round disk is brazed to the back of the emblem. That is a very weak point, and easily snapped off. So you have to be very careful. Use your favorite rust penetrator, WD 40, Kroil, PB Blaster, or the AFT/acetone mix. Put it around the the disk and the shell, let it soak for 24 hours and keep applying the penetrator. You do not want to ding the disk with a punch to get it to move, that will misshapen the disk, and you will have a terrible time getting it straight/round again to fit easily back into the shell hole. Go through your socket set and find one that fits snugly on the disk, then gently tap all around the socket and see if there is any movement of the disk. If not put on more penetrator and try again, and again. At some point the disk will give up and push through the front of the shell. Make sure the emblem and shell are supported with something soft and has some give so as to not damage the badge or the shell. Good luck. Let us know how you do. I would not use any heat, as you will melt the disc from the badge. When you reassemble the badge into the shell, put some JBWeld dabs or heavy duty glue on the back edge of the disk. You do not want the badge to fall out the front.
  26. 1 point
    No parking brake? To much weight. Being a racer myself I know that neighbors have mixed feelings about some of my work habits.
  27. 1 point
    That is a colorized picture. It started as a black and white and someone added color later, using the colors they liked. Cal.
  28. 1 point
    Always interesting to me to find out a history of an old car I own. I have a complete one on my 1980 Volare. Good luck on getting the information
  29. 1 point
    The 'Front Strut Rod Bushing more details on - https://www.carid.com/cart.php' is just the bushings for the 'brake reaction rod' , same as Moog K6484 ; Pictures attached show location, parts #35 to #39 on diagram. Sorry if any of this is redundant info.
  30. 1 point
    When you get done figuring out all the Hemis Chrysler ever made for Chrysler, DeSoto and Dodge you can work out the Polysphere versions of the same Hemi blocks, plus the Polysphere engines that never had a Hemi counterpart, then the raised deck Hemis and their Polysphere counterparts, then the Chrysler engines that were used in Dodge cars and trucks, the Dodge engines used in Plymouths, and the Canadian versions that were NEVER used in US made Dodge DeSoto or Chrysler cars but WERE used in certain Plymouths. When you get done figuring that out you can go to work on the flathead sixes and straight eights. Now, with the engines sorted out, you can figure out which transmissions were used with which engines in which years, and in which models of cars and trucks. I tried to organize a spreadsheet once but gave up in despair. I think I know most of the permutations and variations if I come at them one at a time but like I said before, you can go nuts trying to sort them all out at once.
  31. 1 point
    You could go nuts trying to figure out the welter of engines and transmissions used by the Chrysler Corporation in their various models, between 1939 and 1959. "Fluid Drive" vs "Fluid Torque Drive" is barely scratching the surface. As to why you and your 40 mechanics never worked on one, that is easy. None of them ever broke down or wore out, Now that they are 60 to 80 years old, some of them need work. Usually because they are low on oil or the wiring is crumbling from old age.
  32. 1 point
    Spark on an high tension system is easy. Power to one side of the grounded coil, power from the other contact on the coil to the insulated contact on the distributor. When the points are closed power travels through the coil and the points setting up a magnetic field in the coil. When the points open the magnetic field collapses and the high tension wire from the coil takes the current from the coil to the center of the distributor cap. The rotor sends this current to the proper spark plug and voila you have spark. If I were in this situation I would take the cap off the distributor, make sure the points were closed, pull the center wire from the cap and hold it near the cylinder head. Turn on the ignition and open the points and a spark should jump to the head. If you have no spark then you have a break in the circuit between the battery, the ignition switch, the coil and the distributor. Simple fix undo each connection, clean and reconnect. Good luck
  33. 1 point
    I don't think any part of the brake system would be happy with any sort of petroleum product, or silicone for that matter on the Teves system. I would only recommend running fresh brake fluid through the system. I had heard some time ago about fluid available in different colors to be able to see when the flush was complete, but I never looked in to that. JMHO
  34. 1 point
    I don't know if it will be any help, but I have a '79 LTC with a 400 engine. I was able to find an air cleaner hose for a '79 mustang that worked, but nowhere was it listed for a Lincoln. So... I am assuming they have the same engine or some of the same parts? I found my part by a search for a '79 Mustang with that part and looking at the images to find one that looked right. I ordered it with the understanding I could return if it didn't work, but it did.
  35. 1 point
  36. 1 point
    M-6 Hi-Lo 4 speed ransmissions are all direct in high range... no OD at all. The optional Fluid Torque Drive of course is a typical Non Lockup torque converter and does have a typical clutch assembly connected to the rear of it so you can shift into High or Low range and also reverse at stops and while driving (High/Low) range shifts.. For the auto upshifts or downshifts with the M-6 transmission no clutch pedal operation is required. Six cylinder cars and Dodge V8 cars with the optional Torque Converters are engine fed using up to 12 Quarts of engine oil. Most all Chrysler and DeSoto's with FTD have their own torque converter sump and are filled through a access cover at the top of the extended bell housing if ever needed. Simple to service and not often.. The six cylinder cars just to change the oil you have to drain the engine and the separate Torque converter.... a major pain in the you know what and 12 quarts of oil too!
  37. 1 point
    I take Reatta information any way I can get it........... Send me the VIN on any and all Reattas you own or see. I need the VIN and as much additional info as possible...exterior color, interior color, 16way seats? is side molding black or color of car? sunroof? ....if you have a picture send that. The VIN was never etched in any of the windows at the factory.....some police departments did that for free and some dealers did it as a customer service promotion.
  38. 1 point
    Painted the block tonight. I carefully covered all the block openings with blue painter's tape. It's amazing how nice it looks when everything is the same color. 2 coats??? So now I have to paint all the engine accessories to get ready for the final build. My plan going forward is to restore the master cylinder and do a complete brake job. Then replace all four chassis springs. After that, a nice coat of chassis black (POR-15). Then I'd like to install the engine back in the chassis as I feel it's a lot safer there.
  39. 1 point
    I looked on my wheels and didn't find any markings. Attached are a few pictures, which hopefully will help. The last one is the back of the side mount.
  40. 1 point
    Excellent news! Been patiently waiting for him to recover so I can get my center console leatherette, glad he's going to be back in business. Seems like a super nice guy from all correspondence I've had with him. Lucas
  41. 1 point
    And you have got to include my 'B-16's" !!!!
  42. 1 point
  43. 1 point
    Here is an engine dolly I built. I aslo ran the engine on it. Makes it easy tor roll around while the rest of the car is being done
  44. 1 point
    Wife of collector here.. yes, I am scanning websites regularly as we compile list and pics for police and revamp security. Insurance is useless - can't document details of a lifetime of collecting. Here's one pic I have handy, because it was a Christmas present from me...will upload more soon. Interesting comment from Mercer09 about it being someone "close to the fella" -- we've thought of that, but not likely just one fella - more like a crew of scumbags...
  45. 1 point
    Save yourself some grief and leave the pinion seal alone unless you disassemble to service other parts like bearings. A defective pinion seal will leak into the torque tube and will find a level below the driveshaft and will not cause problems other than a leak at the flange. A leak at the flange can be sealed with a bead of RTV. Just monitor the nature of the fluid in the torque tube with a plugged hole at the back.
  46. 1 point
    I hesitated in responding, because there are some places that this stuff can be used and some where it shouldn't be used. Git Rot (sp) is an epoxy that travels through the wood and soaks into the wood as it travels. Although it works as any epoxy resin it's slow kick time allows it the penetrate both the good wood and the rotted wood before it sets up. It does a nice job of replacing dry rotted material, but also has multiple uses when rigidity of the wood is required. Used judiciously it can be the restores best friend. I've used it several times over the last forty years on wood that I was afraid that I was going to have to replace. Repairs are still holding up today.
  47. 1 point
  48. 1 point
    Let the penetrating oil to penetrate. It make take several days with new application of oil everyday. Apply the penetrating oil into the bolt hole were the bolt head broke off. I'm sure that is good and rusted up because breaking a steel head bolt is a sure indicator of that. Second, apply the penetrating oil around the mating surface of the pump/chain cover housing. Allow this is penetrate for days. Yes, rusting steel parts can appear to be welded together. I replaced the t-belt on my KIA. KIA in it's engineering wisdom has the crank gear fitted into the balance pulley. Took a week of penetrating oil and rubber mallet to get the gear off the pulley. Needless to say the gear seats inside the pulley less than a quarter inch. Yet both parts appeared to be welded together as one solid piece. Keep in mind these two parts were assembled together only 6 years ago. Your Buick assembled decades ago. It will take time for the oil to do the trick. Key here is time for the oil to penetrate. Patience. Use light heating at the broken bolt area as the last resort.
  49. 1 point
    Even application of modest heat (i.e. propane torch) to the cover in the vicinity of the bolt may help. Just warm the area, apply some trans fluid, PB Blaster, or other and let it cool. Lather,rinse, repeat... The heat/cool cycling will help to break the corrosion bond.
  50. 1 point
    If the bolt is on an edge drill the side of the cover down to the bolt and introduce your penetrating fluid there. If that does not work tap and install a grease zerk and try to pump grease while heating.