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Showing most liked content on 10/15/2016 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    Knowing what a problem this can be, I thought about it for several days. Finally I decided to turn it over to some of my friends at Oak Ridge National Laboratory. They are a group of scientists, engineers and a nuclear phyisist. When they aren't designing better atomic weapons, and working on other top secret projects, they like to take on projects that solve problems in our everyday lives. I laid out the goal of my project, which was primarily to remove the center cap from a stock Reatta wheel without scratching it.. Our efforts would be focused on developing a tool that would accomplish our goal of getting the center cap off - and not exceed a budget of $25,000 in development costs.. Their first thoughts was that our budget seemed to be a little low. Luckily the project manager said he had about $900,000 left over in his budget for the peanut butter analyses project they did when they were selecting the best peanut butter to use in their lunch room. So we had the money to do it!!! ORNL has some of the fastest supercomputers in the world and they were at our disposal. All the scientist on our team got right on the computers to develop several scenarios of how we should approach this problem of finding a tool that would not scratch the center cap when removing it from the wheel. While they were doing their high tech research, I brought in a wheel with a center cap installed so they could see the problem they were up against. Seeing some "foreign matter" on the wheel (dirt) the team requested a "Waste Removal Specialist" (Janitor) to clean it off. When the janitor examined the wheel before cleaning he asked what we were doing with it. I explained to him that we were using the brainpower of our scientific team and the supercomputers to design a tool that would remove the center cap without scratching it. To the amazement of me and the ORNL team he reached out with one of the tools he had brought with him and popped the center cap off - without any chance of scratching the center cap or it hitting the floor (see photos) "MISSION ACCOMPLISHED!" and applause rang out from our team of scientist and engineers - who leaped forward to take credit for developing the new center cap removal tool - hoping that it would get them a bigger raise in their salary. As me and the Janitor carried the tire back out to the car we could still hear them arguing about who had came up with the idea that solved the problem within budget. The last I heard the Waste Removal Specialist had been promoted to a Project Manager. who is in charge of developing this new tool for the consumer market. When all the safety testing and red tape is taken care of you may see this new tool listed in The Reatta Store - probably about five years from now. This isn't intended to offend anyone. Just having a little fun.
  2. 2 points
    car is back together completely. I now have correct dash lights and the gas gauge doesnt go to E when I put the lights on anymore. No extra grounds used. So the circuit card was the fix. That was the final major issue I needed to address. Now its just small things, like the clock wont set, it runs but I cant set the time, the knobs locked up. One of the woodtrim pieces on the dash is peeling on the corners, I need to reglue it. Still need an alignment but the car tracks so straight right now I don't know I wanna screw with it. Im watching the tires. My drivers side resonator is a bit low, gonna readjust it to get more road clearance. But I think I can honestly call it 'Done'
  3. 2 points
    On the first Ebay auction, 31 bids and a high bid of $12,658. Other than the rust, which you've honestly described, the Electra looks like a nice car for someone. Hope you get what you're trying for, Mr. Martin.
  4. 2 points
    I'm not that nice and I always put high prices on parts. If I sell parts for too little people might not appreciate them as much as they should. And sometimes I give things away. Looking back over the years I believe the people who paid the high prices had more appreciation than the ones I gave stuff too. Go back to my first sentence. Bernie
  5. 2 points
  6. 1 point
    Here's another 1950 vehicle that just showed up at the same garage as the 1950 Chrysler I posted about a few days ago. Guess the garage is having a 1950 themed gathering!
  7. 1 point
    Went to a local car show today put on by Boy Scout Troop 41. Unfortunately but typically, there were only two other Buicks beside my Reatta.
  8. 1 point
    This one is right be my way. On the condition that weather is good, a lot of classic car owners park their cars in the Hardee's parking lot on Saturdays and just chill. This one caught my eye.
  9. 1 point
    Considering that "open" engines of the 1960s had recommended oil change intervals of 3-4000 miles (except for Ford and their 1963 recommendation of 6000 miles) were allowed to be extended, most possibly, from improved motor oils of those times . . . and they have improved from there . . . it would be more "filter-limited" now than "oil-limited" in more recent times, I suspect. Other than the possibly dusty environments some might be in (temporarily or consistently), the main consideration would kind of parallel the prior "10 Mile Rule", where EACH cold start was followed by 10+ miles of driving, such that the entire engine got up to operating temperature and stayed there long enough to cook out any moisture/condensate from within the engine AND any moisture by-products which might tend to dilute the motor oil's chemistry. I recall that multi-weight oils came about in the earlier 1960s and gained market share in the middle 1960s and later. Although I was too young to worry about SAE papers or viscosity index numbers back then, some magazine articles suspected that what started out as 10W-30 ended up closer to 10W-20 viscosity, as the earlier viscosity improvers apparently depleted over time, which ALSO led many to NOT use the multi-vis oils, seeking something "more stable" as straight 30 oils (which might shear to a slightly thinner viscosity with use, but not by much). More advance chemistry led us to more stable multi-vis oils and ultimately to the 10W-50 oils of the early 1970s (BMW currently has a 10W-60 oil spec for some of their motors). It was later discovered that a build-up of viscosity improvers might compromise the "freeness" of the piston rings in their piston slots, but not with all brands per se (according to an oil rep we used to see at the dealership). At one time, my oil change orientation on my Camaro, as it aged from new, was that after it got to where it took 1qt/4000K miles, with the better oils I had started to use, that if the oil was not "black", I'd add a quart and change it when it was convenient. Key thing was that it still looked basically "golden" and clear. As "scientific" as I could do back then. At one time, I did send off for an oil analysis (when it got to that 'quart down' time and everything came back "good". I knew the oil was keeping things clean inside, so sludge accumulation was not an issue for me. ONE thing I'd begun to do was that each time I'd change my oil, after I'd let it drain for a while (drops rather than "string"), I'd then pout an extra quart of oil into the engine so that any residual oil below the drain hole level, would additionally be flushed out somewhat. A "cleaner" oil change, I thought. Not much added expense to do that, either. Personally, with modern oils, in general (brand, dusty conditions, and zddp levels not in the mix), I don't see why an engine in decent condition with little oil consumption couldn't go 3000 miles or more between changes. I'd pay attention to how quickly the oil "colored" from blow-by or similar things, with an oil that stayed cleaner longer would mean, to me, that ring sealing was still good, hence the oil change could be extended somewhat. When catalytic converters and unleaded fuel came out, GM extended their "normal use" oil and filter change intervals to 7500 miles. By that time, oil filter media had improved, too, which should be at least as good as the most generic filter might be now. If the engine has a lot of oil "use", it would mean there is a good bit of contamination getting into the crankcase past the rings. With a limited-use vehicle, adding oil and changing it every so often might be appropriate or whenever it got and stayed "dark" after the oil was added. IF the engine didn't have an oil filter installed from the factory, the 1000 mile interval would also serve to get the grit out of the oil, plus any other contaminants, too. Filters generally extended the interval as they collected "grit" in them so that the oil's main orientation of "lubricating" was more operative. I would thing, in current times, that a 1000 mile oil change interval might be a little bit of over-kill in our modern times. And, of course, there can be some differing orientations of when oil should be changed with respect to "winter storage" situations. NTX5467
  10. 1 point
    An easy one for a change - Ford Model T. Plated radiator but still on the 30 x 3 1/2 tyres so 1926 model but late 1925 production maybe. This one has the smaller wheels used for 1926 - The sedan behind is more of a challenge. Maybe a Nash?
  11. 1 point
    When I was a kid an old guy told me to go to a pharmacy and buy a quart of 'waterglass' and put it in the cooling system. It worked well. However as your engine is torn down I would probably lean toward some epoxy or the likes. Being there is no pressure a patch like this just may work. I recently pressure washed a slant six and uncovered a 6 inch JB Weld repair. It was working fine.
  12. 1 point
    Not in a way of fall colours, here is a photo of our 1913 Buick model 31 at Lancaster, Pa for the Hershey Hangover (a pre '16 tour) last week. Mostly still green surprisingly. Gary
  13. 1 point
    For those of you who may be looking for something unique to the Riviera world, here's a picture of a '75 Riviera with the webs in the rally wheels painted red from the factory. It's on the Appleton, WI Craigslist but you'll have to misspell Riviera to find it. Type in Riveria. That spelling plus 'buick rivera' will get you untold results you won't get by spelling it correctly. 48K; not a bad ride for $2,500.
  14. 1 point
    Haha, good one. A little humor is always a good thing !!
  15. 1 point
    You have to get into all the nooks and crannies if you are going to do it. Here's Mike helping me out around 1994. Bernie
  16. 1 point
    In Virginia we have a non-geographical association of all the regions within the State called Old Dominion Meet Association (ODMA). We have an annual Meet hosted by one of the regions within Virginia (each year a different region hosts the annual ODMA Meet). Our next Meet is scheduled for 21-23 APR 2017 and will be hosted by the Tidewater Region (TRAACA). Here is some info: http://odma.aaca.com/about/ Additionally TRAACA hosts an annual Meet the last weekend in September at the Military Aviation Museum in Pungo, VA (the site of our 2015 National Meet for those that attended). Here is some info on our Annual Meet: http://www.militaryaviationmuseum.org/Wings_Wheels_2016.html Matt
  17. 1 point
    Your method of posting them--via Google Photos-- made it exceptionally easy to scroll through them. Very friendly to the viewer. Thanks, Annie!
  18. 1 point
    Devin, is that after-market cloth on the seats that I see in your Craig's List ad? Even though it may not be Buick material, it looks good. The exterior of the car looks very nice, and all the best to you in the sale.
  19. 1 point
    What's my prize? How about a free Gemmer steering gear rebuild?
  20. 1 point
    I have a similar tool but the handle is white in color. Do you feel that this difference would have a detrimental or beneficial effect on the process? John F.
  21. 1 point
    With the way you are going to handle the springs, I think that is your winning combination. Address the other factors then get the springs tailored to exactly what you want/need. Smart play. Let me know if you need any help deciphering your front end kit if you think it came from Rare Parts. I'll click some pics of the identifying #''s and such from what I put on my ride in case there's doubts.
  22. 1 point
    What a great picture, and what a great group of cars!
  23. 1 point
    At the Hershey flea market, you'll wait forever to sell a range hood to an antique car guy.
  24. 1 point
    I was going to take a bit of a different approach, as I figure that squished body mounts, compressed isolators, and distorted bushings will all affect height and stance. So I was going to swap them out first. Once that's done, I'll know where I am with the old springs. At that point, I've got the option of sending one of the old springs into CSS with instructions to "Make me a set that is X" taller/shorter than these." Per my conversations with them, they'll measure the old springs, then make new ones that have the exact difference you want (±¼" or so). So, for example, I can send in one of my soft, squished standard front springs and tell them "Give me a set of stiffer springs that will raise the front end 1". As you noted, the down side of this approach is that you get to install the springs twice. The upside is that you get exactly what you want. Great minds think alike.
  25. 1 point
    Matt, Great Buick show with a lot of nice cars attending. Glad I made the drive down for it. Uneventful trip from Kansas City there and back, good to get the old girl out on the road and stretch her legs!
  26. 1 point
    Thanks for posting your pictures. It was nice to see the cars I judged on Saturday again.
  27. 1 point
    The only hard part is swapping your driveshaft to the new pumpkin. See my website for tips on making a tool.
  28. 1 point
    Thank you fellas for the nice words........I hope to live up to them some day! It's been a busy and eventful summer. I have had an opportunity to put about 750 miles on Packard 12's since I first posted here, another 1600 miles on several Pierce 12's, and 1900 miles on two Model J's. All great cars, well sorted and running and performing at their full potential. All three cars have a diffrent feel while driving them. How to pick a favorite? We shal try...... If we took the top ten current super models and lined them up on the cat walk in let's say the swim wear competition, and there were three of us judging the ladies........... And I turn to you and say, pick out the best looking of the bunch, the least attractive one of the bunch, and the one that you find overall most appealing taking into consideration all possible aspects of what you find attractive in a lady, the diffrent answers would sure be interesting..........remembering we are trying to pick out the "standouts" of the top ten super models! Would any of us be embarrassed of hesitant of being seen with any of them? No, so I think one can honestly compare the three cars that are the subject of this thread. They are all world class, just with diffrent attributes that make each one special in their own way. Taking any one of these cars........or ladies .......... For a ride will always be a positive experience! Interesting observations of the cars....... Model J, Packard 12, and Pierce 12. Overall in the last 24 months I have driven no less than seven Duesenberg's and the most interesting attribute of them is they seem to be the most poorly maintained, poorly running, and suffer from poor workmanship of restoration than any other cars I have ever worked on, and believe me I have worked on a bunch of stuff. You think the owners of these legendary cars would see to it that only the best quailified people would lay their hands on them.......nope, there are lots of collectors who let the cars sit, with old gas, weak batteries, tires with flat spots, exhaust leaks, oil leaks, overheating issues, clutch chatter, wrong parts, ect,ect,ect! When running and sorted properly the J is a GREAT car......and overall lives up to the legend of being the best American car built before WWII, yup it's number one........in style, in power, and performance ..............that is if you like driving a dump truck! Ok, that may be a bit much, but the J is the best.......BUT It is heavy and a much less refined driving experience. For a short drive of under an hour, it can't be beat. Period. They can be hard to get into and out of, steer heavy, shift hard with their crash box, and burn fuel like it's going out of style, and they tire the driver out pretty quickly. Drive one over two hundred miles in a day,(we did) and when you get out of it, it feels like you got your ass kicked in a school lot fight. You feel,every bump, rut, hill, body sway, vibration, every part of the road gets transferred into your body. Getting out of the car after seven or eight hours driving and you know you accomplished a impressive and special feat, driving the worlds best car, being seen in a true masterpiece of style and engineering, but man, is your ass dragging. We won't even consider purchase cost, or matainance frequency, if money and time were no object, it's the Model J hands down. The Packard 12........ Is our next contestant. I will refer to the Individual Custom Dietrich series from 1932 to 1934 for this exercise, yup, the Big Boy Toy........ As its Coachwork is most similar to what you find on a J. Beautiful styling, the best, hands down in my opinion the most beautiful cars ever designed, from the start of time to today, the Individual Custom Dietrich Packard 12's are the most beautiful design ever placed on four wheels. The chassis and motor are extremely refined and elegant, smooth and detailed, quality and finish are the tops, road manners are wonderful, and it's almost impossible to find any fault with the cars, and any you can name are almost not worth commenting on as they are so insignificant. Increase the Packards horsepower and torque and I would consider them a perfect motorcar. The power is adequate, it is very smooth and predictable, a bit under powered............ Only when driving in the 80 percentile and above does it lack anything, and almost no one today drives these cars in that range........ But I do, so thus the comment. Overall the golden era of the custom Packard 12 wins the "best overall road car for the luxury car buyer" no questions asked. The Packard is a gem, if you were going to purchase such a machine today, nothing modern can compare at all, not even close, today's Bentley or Rolls just isn't a third the refinement and attention to detail of the golden era of Packard. And the Packard Individual Custom Dietrich's biggest downfall is a BIG one........PRICE. No working man can afford one today, they are MUCH more expensive than you think.......think again and double it, and then add your last ten years salary to it. Duesenberg's can be bought on the cheap compared to the Individual Custom Dietrich Packard cars. Time me to take a break, I'll get back to Pierce Arrow's in my next post. Ed
  29. 1 point
    The Hershey Region members deserve every bit of praise for another fantastic week in Chocolate town! It was fabulous!!! Terry
  30. 1 point
    What? Ure going back again? Don't know about the rest, but my yearly calendar begins and ends on Hershey dates. This year was one amazing event, and the weather sure helped too! Terry
  31. 1 point
  32. 1 point
  33. 1 point
  34. 1 point
    Sometimes the work is not worth the extra cost also. I have had plating done by Paul's, the Finishing Touch and Courtesy. If the part is pot metal and needs a lot of work, I prefer Paul's or the Finishing Touch. If it is in good shape or steel, I prefer Courtesy, due to his better pricing structure and quick turnaround. I have had parts done by others that were just as expensive as Paul's and the Finishing Touch and sent the parts back and told the owners that he could keep the parts, as they were ruined beyond saving, just refund my money.
  35. 1 point
    Thank you for the Great Photo's
  36. 1 point
    TECH TIP - So I had the opposite problem. How to unscrew the nickeled top from the spring barrel on the hood fastener. I started with a piece of rubber in the jaws of my vise grips. It kept slipping on the round barrel. I then put a piece of coat hanger, or you could use a nail, in the hole in the barrel where the spring is oiled. Then the vise grip did not need to be so tight since I created a temporary stop on the barrel. I clamped the vise grips in a vise. I thought I might break the ears off the nickel top piece, but I finally managed to spin it off. You could also use this method to tighten them on and you will not mar the paint if done correctly. For those who are luck enough to never have looked inside, here is a picture of the internal parts. Hugh
  37. 1 point
    Origininal one owner car w/owner.
  38. 1 point
    The Finishing Touch in Chicago is also very good and expensive. http://www.thefinishingtouchinc.com/ Courtesy Chrome Plating also does good work and is not as busy as The Finishing Touch. His prices are more competitive. http://www.courtesymetalpolishing.com/contact-us.html
  39. 1 point
    http://www.paulschrome.com/ Quality, pricey and good service--
  40. 1 point
  41. 1 point
    Former owner died while waiting to restore the car.
  42. 1 point
    Many Thanks to the Hershey Region members for all their hard work on this year's Fall Hershey. Thanks also to the AACA National Staff and the HERCO personnel as well.
  43. 1 point
    I have had very good results from Advanced also, not fast or cheap but very good.
  44. 1 point
    You bet. We had a Cascada, Manta, and GT all lined up together... Both GT owners did receive a copy of the August Bugle.
  45. 1 point
    I'm sure my friend in Sweden was watching with interest
  46. 1 point
    Another great year at Hershey!!!! Thanks to the Hershey Region for all the hard work. Just a few comments on the PA system and the National Anthem... 1. Could you turn up the volume just a bit as it was very hard to hear in the lower green field and orange. 2. Heard a few comments that there should be American flags flying, maybe on the sound system speaker? Otherwise a great meet and great job by all the workers and HERCO.
  47. 1 point
    I told a man that I met that I would post a link to a Buick he is selling on C/L in MN: http://minneapolis.craigslist.org/hnp/cto/5809407793.html
  48. 1 point
    A 320 telephone area code serves Clearwater, Minnesota.....not Iowa. Interstate Auto is located on the frontage road, North side of Interstate-94, S.E. of Saint Cloud, Minnesota. Drive by it often but never stop. Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint"
  49. 1 point
    I would like for someone from the Hershey Region to explain how we go about requesting a change in parking/space sales. This is not a National AACA problem, it's put on by the Hershey Region. For goodness sake, take a field, I say the Orange Field, charge people a few dollars less for that field to PARK ONLY, no vending. It's getting silly to see entire sections of the fields filled up with dead cars, people out walking. Is this really that complicated? Put vendors together, it's fine if they have a motor home or camper, but at least vend (and I don't mean one carb and two hood latches). ENFORCE THIS! I love Hershey, one of my best years ever getting stuff and selling, but walking some fields is just seeing silly stuff, with one vender every 100 feet. OK, off the soapbox, but I also agree, sure would be nice to ban motorized vehicles except for the really handicapped. I'm 65, one bad knee, and still manage to hobble around, and think that a lot of people are just too f-ing lazy so they get carts. You can't ask about a handicap, but I'd set up a place so that, when someone asks for a handicap sticker, I'd ask if they could walk a 50 foot line there and back...you'd know in the first 10 feet who REALLY needs a cart! Oh, that's not politically correct? Huh..
  50. 1 point
    Thank you for great info. We have finished the wood refurbishment, and have just started the metalworking. When we got the car, the runningboards were wood, and about 3 inches longer than stock. The fenders were also heavily rusted, so we have had to replace the edges and 3 inches into the fender on both sides. Just about everything from the sparewheelwell and back to the runningboards was missing. So it has also been recreated. I will make an inquiry to L&L and the rubbercompany for the edge trim and rubber mat. Thanks again for the help Frode Johansen