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Showing most liked content on 04/10/2016 in all areas

  1. 4 points
    This weekend was the Texas tour in Brenham TX....it is never a big show but we always have fun. Several new vehicles this year. The 1918 center door that was on the cover of the January Bugle was there and everyone was quite interested in seeing such an unusual car. 1963 Lesabre 3 speed dual quad 401 2 dr post that was immaculate. 1963 Special convertible Willie was there with the 55 Century air conditioned 4 dr hard top 3 Reattas....one driven in from Albuquerque
  2. 2 points
    The Forum needs this: http://texashillcountry.com/slice-texas-history-blue-bonnet-cafe/
  3. 2 points
    Love this thread which I just found today. so here is a photo of my 39 sedan. It was sold new in New Zealand in December 1939. It is a RHD NZ assembled Buick with a Fisher body not the Holden body seen on many Australian Buicks. It a Special but was sold with the Century external and internal trim. (hence the outside trim on the windows and the centre rear seat arm rest) It has been in my wife's family since 1972 and was our wedding car in 1994 and also for her sister in 1995. I purchased the car of the family estate in 2002 and have over the last 4 years done an extensive frame on restoration that started out small but ended up huge. I have the original ownership documents for the sedan that records all of the owners and when and where it was purchased . And Stuart's 34 Roadster has moved home to the east Coast of Australia and lives here with me and I have it out driving most weekends Cheers Andrew
  4. 2 points
    No, that is not correct. But the fix may require some additional work. Often the transmission mount needs to be replaced to get the rear of the trans in alignment again. Most folks also change the motor mounts at the same time so the entire package is at proper height and alignment. Then if it does not stay in reverse, you would need to make linkage adjustments. The most important part is that it goes into reverse. If you are new to Buicks let me warn you. The trans is very reliable, and will last for a long time. but reverse gear band is held in place internally by a strut rod. If the engine is racing or if the trans is yanked abruptly into reverse by accident, that strut rod can drop out of place. In some cases the pan can be dropped and the rod put back in without pulling the trans out of the car. Sometimes that's not the case. Since the Buick has an enclosed drive shaft, the rear axle has to be pulled back to get the trans out. It sounds way worse than it is. Don't let that stop you, just realize that the best policy is to let the engine warm up so you can step down the cold fast idle and then you should not have any problems. The 56 is a Super car. There were several improvements from the 55 year, but it is also the last year of that body style. There are many one year only parts. But most things are still available for it from local parts stores, or internet and Buick specialty providers. When it is returned to factory settings it is an amazing ride. you won't feel the trans shift because it doesn't. It has fluid drive that meets driving demands on the fly. It still has a low gear, which seems to make people think in drive it's not working right, but if you are not drag racing, you will find it is more than adequate power and performance.
  5. 2 points
    The car from which all of the measurements were taken and photographed was Ed and Sherry Pentico's 1964 Diplomat blue with the super wildcat motor. Here's one of the models with which I had the most fun.
  6. 1 point
    As previously mentioned, my 1923 6 cylinder S/G broke 2 of the 3 (charging) brush arms (actually one broke and it took out the other). Plus, the charging commutator is so worn, it looks like a small spool of thread, a guess would be at least 100,000 miles on the unit, heck I've put 30,000 on it,make that more like 150,000 miles. Lucky for me, Terry W. saw a S/G and bought it some years ago and I was able to buy it from him and its been on the shelf waiting. These things are darn near year to year specific as has been covered here on the forum before. Mine is a Delco #249. After two years of touring and playing with battery chargers and extension cords like a guy with a modern electric car trying to keep my battery up, I took the S/G bought from Terry to Jason Smith at A.E.R. as it had far fewer miles on it than mine based on the excellent condition of the commutators but still needed to be gone through. Jason met me today 3 miles from my office in Pontiac, MI (yes that Pontiac for the non Michiganders) with my rebuilt S/G and it looks like new. Another vote for Jason and A.E.R.. Bad weather forcast for tomorrow so I plan to pull the old one and install the rebuilt one. This R&R is one of the few things I have yet to do on the Buick so it should be fun. Let's hope so.
  7. 1 point
    https://desmoines.craigslist.org/cto/5531713658.html Interesting car.
  8. 1 point
    Annie- Thank you for sharing the photos of the meet in Charlotte NC. . I had a aunt that lived in Chapel Hill NC and that was a pretty area. Al Storrs
  9. 1 point
    Just a guess until I check my books, but looks like it came from a 1953 Oldsmobile or Cadillac. I see the rear output shaft does not look like there was ever a torque ball as Buick used with the torque tube closed driveshaft system. Also the bell housing looks like it has "ears" that I have seen on Olds/Cadillac Dynaflows. Dynaflows were used in Oldsmobiles and Cadillacs only in 1953 because the Hydramatic plant burned to the ground and so GM fitted Dynaflows to these cars that would normally have had Hydramatics Joe, BCA 33493
  10. 1 point
    The two out front look like Sterlings, One to the rear to the right of the main door looks like a 37 or 38 Mack. Anyone Identify the others? This Building was built in 1931-32 and opened in the fall of 1932. Dandy Dave!
  11. 1 point
    Day 2. Distributor. Disassembled the distributor since the driven gear on the bottom of the ~150,000 mile distributor was badly worn, outer edge of gear teeth almost come to a point they are so thin. Everything has to come apart to do this plus it needed to be cleaned. Donor distributor driven gear looked like new, more reason to believe it is a low mile unit, so that unit had to be torn down too (and the matching drive gear is on the rebuilt S/G is another good reason). Lots of nasty grease to clean. All three little centrifical weight springs found loose in the bottom of the original distributor housing. The three in the donor were off too. Hmmmm. Six lobe cam that lifts the points on my original unit looked worn, donor again looked like new. The centrifical weight assembly from the original was best since it had no rust and was really free to move, just covered in black grease. Hope those little springs stay put this time. Everything cleaned and greased and assembled now with the best parts of each. Points stone ground bright and flat/square. Gap 0.020 in.. Man is that easy to do with the distributor on a bench not bent over in the dark with those dinky points wrenches to adjust the gap. Water pump cover re-torqued and lower radiator hose back on. No water pump work this time. Need to paint the distributor housing and distributor right angle gear drive housing the distributor mounts in (which in turn mounts to the S/G) next to match the S/G paint and too cold to do that. 28F and two inches of snow today 18 miles south of Flint. 5 hrs well spent most with my wonderful wife as the kitchen island became my re-assembly clean room and she made homemade soup pretending to be fascinated with the workings of a distributor and my tutorials.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
    The F57 would most likely be for a 57 Ford Thunderbird.
  14. 1 point
    I had a standard bore engine in one of my cars that was "owner reported, low miles". That one needed an overbore of .040 thousands to get the cylinders centered back over the crankshaft. Any time you can upgrade for only the cost of reaming the valve guides instead of turning the stems to fit old guides I most definitely would ream. But, I have done things irrational before without thinking it out. Good luck on your decision. --Bob--
  15. 1 point
    Is there a nephew, niece, grandchild, or neighbor who always drooled over the car? Give it to them and don't hold any hard feelings if it goes down hill from there. They will love it. My Grandmother gave me two old cars when I was a kid and an Aunt gave me another. I took them apart and never got them back together, but it was all part of my life's experience. As an adult, I have probably given away more cars than many people have owned. I never felt like I lost anything. Don't overlook an existing dreamer as the new owner. Bernie
  16. 1 point
    Most likely it's motor and/or transmission mount problems which cause linkage problems. Replacing the mounts is not a difficult or expensive project. Adjusting the linkage may fix the reverse situation but there still may be the underlying mount problems.........Bob
  17. 1 point
    Glad that it seems to be fixed. Fuel pump output pressure can be effected by the diaphragm return spring used. There used to be a builder in the hobby whose mantra was that if the part fit, it was the right part! Have seen some fuel pumps that produced way more than 10 psi. Since we used to restore carburetors, and these pumps caused us some unnecessary rebuilds (customers blaming us for leaking carbs), we shopped around, did some testing, and have for many years suggested that fuel pump rebuilds or rebuilding kits should come from Then & Now Automotive, in the Boston area. Their parts have always been equivilent to original. This is even more true today than a few years ago, because of some vendors and "rebuilders" importing cheap off-shore parts. Since the regulator seemed to have fixed your issue, I might suggest acquiring a fuel pressure gauge, removing the regulator, and observing the actual pressure. If the actual pressure IS too high, I personally would want to correct the issue rather than using a band-aid. Just my 2 cents. Jon.
  18. 1 point
    Well, traveled to Charlotte for a couple of days, came back and pleasantly surprised to see a lively discussion on what kind of nickel it is, what other coins work where, and soda pop! And yes, they're commonly called freeze plugs, but in reality they're just filling a casting hole, and don't really provide freeze protection. Southern thing, empty one of those sleeves of salted peanuts into a Coke bottle (take a sip first to make room!), Coke and peanuts go together well! Another Southern thing is to pour Coke over "wet" ice, so it doesn't foam and lose carbonation. You make wet ice by putting cubes in glass, filling with water, emptying the water. It takes the cold edge off! Charlotte was a good show, the wind was brutal. New layout of show field is nice in front of the speedway, but to see all the cars there's a lot of walking to do, as some are lined up around the outside of the Speedway and more inside. Show field in front had lots of empty spaces, did the cold and wind keep them away?
  19. 1 point
    Here are a couple of my 1912 Model 35. Gil Fitzhugh the Elder
  20. 1 point
    Thanks for the reply, I thought it would have been a strange feature to have a "hold it there" reverse gear. I think since it the gear works, I will go ahead ad get it.
  21. 1 point
    57 lbs. I should work at a carnival.
  22. 1 point
    Get it running by simply filling the carb float bowls with gas. I wouldn't waste my time dropping the tank or changing fuel lines. As noted, you won't recoup the time and money. Frankly most buyers of cars in that price range and class would rather have a lower price and do those repairs themselves.
  23. 1 point
    Day 1 of S/G removal. Spent 4 hrs on just the coupling that goes between the water pump shaft to the generator. 93 years frozen. Doubt it has ever been off. The 1/4 in. drive pin that goes thru the thick coupling/drive sleeve and thru the 3/4 in dia shaft was frozen, I mean frozen. Gave it heat + PB Blaster multiple times but ended up drilling it out. I went dead center with a 3/16 drill down the center of a 1/4 in dowel. Pretty proud of that since it never happens. Removed what was left of the pin. Then you can slide the coupling down the shaft. Everything after that is bolts. Lots of bolts. I bet that S/G weighs 60#. We shall see, I'll get Mamma's scale and weigh it. Wanted to look inside the water pump while everything was out of the way but the side cover was frozen tight so I left it alone. Would have been nice to see what the impeller looks like but the Buick has always cooled well so instead of forcing things, I left it alone. Packing was dry so I will replace that. With coupling now free and anti-sieze on the shaft I can get to the water pump in 10 minutes now. 8 hrs total and only three trips to the auto parts store. Ha. Good news is I didn't bust or snap or strip anything. While I have a minute, you have to remove the cross car starter actuation rod that goes from starter pedal to S/G that is held in place with 4 bolts and also remove the three bolts and cover to the starter gear reduction box that is part of (hidden in) the right side of car bellhousing ear that reaches over to the frame. This cover has to be removed to get the S/G out, The cross shaft mounts to this lid is why it has to be removed. The S/G is 57# and held at the bottom with three large bolts. There is a 'shelf/ledge' the S/G rests on, so remove the three large bolts while holding the S/G toward the engine to keep it on the 'shelf/ledge'. Let the last bolt and wrench drop to the floor while still holding the S/G against the engine and with both hands and a good back pull that monster out and free. An old boat cushion on the lower fender/running board area to protect things is not a bad idea in case that greasy monster gets away from you. I knew what I was in for but I wouldn't want to do that all day long.
  24. 1 point
    Jon, we just got back from a twenty mile test. The first 10 miles were freeway. On the way home we took surface streets that had lots of lights and heavy traffic. I had placed a crumpled clean paper towel under the vent tube I made so that I could tell if it spit gas at any time during the trip. When we got home the crumpled paper towel was spotless. I tried to make it spit gas while the hood was up and I watched the tube. I worked the throttle fast, slow, steady high speed, etc but could not make it spit. It runs and idles smoothly. While it was idling I removed the sight plug and although no gas weeped out I could see the level at the bottom of the plug easily. I tried revving the engine and holding it there but the gas level at the sight plug remained level with the bottom of the hole. The spitting gas out of the vent hole seems to be cured. The only thing I did that changed anything was to add the fuel regulator which is now set slightly below four lbs pressure. I did have the fuel pump rebuilt a few months ago by Terrill Machine out of Texas, maybe that somehow raised the pressure. I am not sure if it ever happened before the pump was rebuilt or not. Once I discovered it I could make it happen whenever I opened the hood and watched the vent hole while I revved the motor right after it idled as long as the under hood temp was high, never when it was cold. IN ANY CASE IT SEEMS TO BE FIXED.
  25. 1 point
    Dad just towed this one home. '66 C10 short/fleet, big window, with a 283, 3 speed, both Custom Group option packages, and gauges instead of warning lights. It's pretty straight and original but has some rust.
  26. 1 point
    found this 20 yrs ago but couldnt buy it found out i could buy it this past oct of 2015 been working on it since may be in over my head trying to id this car its an american fiat tipo 55 1916 17 or 18 dont know for sure yet finding out there is no positive way to know the year been very interesting learning about how they used to build cars
  27. 1 point
    I'm certain yours will move up the board Larry. Jason knew my timing for this year's Tour season and he honored it and I very much appreciate that and your calls to Jason also. Just think, you won't have to worry about my S/G when we are on tour this June.
  28. 1 point
    Now that yours is done, maybe my '18 can be put up on the que board to be done.
  29. 1 point
    Just picked up this 1957 International A120 4x4 last weekend, been sitting for awhile. Threw a battery in it today and most everything works, I need to pull the starter up and clean the contacts in the solenoid and then it'll probably start.
  30. 1 point
    It's an AMT plastic kit and it's 1:25 scale, but it's the same age as the '63 in my garage. When I was 15 in the fall of 1962, I went to the Buick garage where my dad had worked and saw a new '63 Riviera - Spruce green with silver leather - in the back under a tarp waiting for the '63 reveal night. I told by dad that I "had to have one, just think of the chicks that I could pick up with a car like that." He laughed. On my 16th birthday in February of the following year, my parents told be that because I was making good grades and hadn't gotten into any serious trouble at school, they bought me a '63 Riviera and "it's in the garage." I ran to the garage only to find the AMT model sitting in the middle of the garage floor. I painted it the same colors as the one I'd seen under the tarp. So in 2016, that model celebrated its 53rd year with me. Other than my Boy Scout pocket knife, it's probably the oldest thing that I have that was originally mine. It's since been repainted black with white interior to match the real one that's now in the garage. Thanks for the indulgence, Ed
  31. 1 point
    I probably wouldn't be trying that. If there is a tight suction line and the clearance tolerances in the pump are OK it should be fine. The tightness of all the components in the distribution system and lubrication points would be my concern. If I was really driven to verify the system I would connect and oil supply to a main oil gallery through a plug or the like and pressurize the system while watching for excessive flows in all areas. If oil was gushing from a bearing or internal galley I would double check the assembly or clearance. A side stream oil filter can and compressed air through a PRV would work fine. We used to hand crank a Rolls-Royce PII to prelube after winter storage. Three guys would take turns for half and hour to 45 minutes. All we wanted to see was a slight movement of the oil pressure gauge. And that is all we ever saw. Bernie
  32. 1 point
    http://hipspics.freewebspace.com/gas/gas.html
  33. 1 point
    1939 Buick Special Business Coupe.
  34. 1 point
    You can monitor my engine temp on the journey from the frequent shots including the Motometer. Mechanical backup showed temp never got above the low 170s. Rain predicted to start tonight and continue through Monday. I have been advised to prepare well for it , as torrential downpours happen in situations such as this. This is an unusual system for this time of year. Monsoon pattern. I am 20 miles from the host hotel , and must move as they are booked up Friday and Saturday nights here. I have to figure out a way to seek refuge , clean the car , and get everything (too much stuff) out of it. I don't understand the nature of the first scheduled event , a car show set for Sunday. I would love to be there , weather permitting. Do any of you have info about this show ? - Carl
  35. 1 point
    Pics loading extremely well. Let me put more on to give you a good idea of yesterday's run. Cars used to cross the desert in 1927 , some in better shape than mine. The synthetic lubricants I use throughout give me a margin of protection they did not have. Mid '20s Cadillacs were reliable cars not prone to overheating. They would have had to deal with unpaved roads which would be a deal breaker for me , of course. - Carl
  36. 1 point
    It took about 20 seconds to post these pics ! Several tries over many hours yesterday could not get one on. These were taken with my iPad , so with the wide angle lense , everything looks smaller and farther away. Drove into a strong (25+ mph ?) headwind in the heat (low-mid 90s ?) over a hot road re-radiating into the undercarriage . It is worth repeating what some of the younger drivers used to modern machinery may not fully realize. Slow WAY down driving ancient machinery into the wind. I drove 25. Luckily had plenty of time , and a few times took steepest parts of grades in 2nd. It was a relief to finally head downwind on the 4 lane highway into 'Vegas. No more roaring wind noise , I could hear my sweet strong engine again. The Cadillac was a real Cadillac all the way , but I am beat , and can't quite figure out my logistics yet. Las Vegas TV weather report says rain Friday , and then on and off G.N. week. But rain here is not what I am used to. I think a few sprinkles here and there from time to time over several days is a newsworthy event. They did say the word "thunderstorms" , though. - Tired , old , Carl
  37. 1 point
    My son took me for a ride in his 24 Reo coupe on a beautiful Easter morning, this is the first time this car has been on the road in about 50 years, starts easy and runs great
  38. 1 point
    Went visiting while in S.B. Some interesting banter for later. I am an hour later than I expected to be because of an unexpected wrong number I received. Talked for an hour. But of this , much more later. The tailwind has shifted to a headwind ! Gulp. Here I go , very slowly. - Carl
  39. 1 point
    Hi , everyone , I started to reply with 4 pics earlier. Seemed to lock up again. Worked on a couple of other matters on my iPad , and things opened up again. I will try to post the pics again now , for later comment. I want to get going North in the direction of Death. Still cool here in the desert , sun angle low , cool pavement , and a tailwind is picking up. What a day to do the remotest part of the trip ! I seem to remember there was a reason for the Valley to have earned its ominous name ! Wish me luck ! - Carl
  40. 1 point
    After visiting an old gear hobber I know in Barstow who is the same age as my Cad , I pushed on to Baker. Put on 200 miles today. Even by the back roads I will take , 'Vegas is closer than that ! Will I make it tomorrow ? - Carl
  41. 1 point
    Just about done, I sure hope I can get to a few cars shows here in the midwest this summer.
  42. 1 point
    Florence is living contentedly in the Chicago area. She is slated for restoration, but there is '62 Starfire convertible that must be finished first. The '62 was started shortly before Florence was adopted, otherwise she would have been pushed to the head of the line. Last I knew, her current caretaker was trying to get the glove box door to Florence Henderson for her autograph. Paul
  43. 1 point
    Hi , Cort , here's a couple more. The eucalyptus "canyon" is on highway 192 , Foothill Road , going East from S.B. to Carpinteria. It winds around , crossing narrow bridges , and undulates along , passing countless houses of very fortunate people. Surely one of the most beautiful , peaceful places to live. Along the coast on 101 , I was about to get on 1 , the Pacific Coast Highway. Little did I know I was about to be ambushed ! Word to the wise : If you see 6 or 8 cormorants on a high cable above the road ahead , take evasive action early. About the time I realized that my droning old car might scare the crap out of them , I started to veer to the left. Too little too late. Not a one of those many white spots splattered on my car is snow ! Tonight at 6 Flags Magic Mountain , but no time to play. I've got my own amusement park ride. If I get lucky , I might even make Barstow tomorrow.
  44. 1 point
    There may be hope on this front. This is a bit off topic but I've been involved in a totally unrelated-to-car project in which a 3D scanner is used to scan a surface and then create a mathematical model of that surface. You can then mathematically enlarge the object if you so desire and then dump the 3D CAD file to a 3D printer and print the object in ABS plastic. The plastic version is then used to make a mold that allows for sand casting in your favorite metal. Why not for an old car part? So far, it appears to be highly accurate and you can just mathematically insert the expected shrinkage percentage and cast a duplicate part - or a hundred of them for that matter. Surely someone, somewhere is working on this for car parts. I'd be doing it if I had more time, the technology seems to be all there right now. Why can't I remove all of my car list from my signature? Something has changed. Thanks, Joel
  45. 1 point
  46. 1 point
    One of my 55 Centurys. Rare picture of it not in motion...probably travels more miles than the plane.
  47. 1 point
    Sounds like a charmed life to me. Out from under water, swam in flood waters with snakes and gators to find a tree and be rescued by a bass boat. Yes, you lost a car, but you're alive to tell the story and considering the alternative ------- consider yourself gosh damn lucky.
  48. 1 point
    Wow, talk about bad luck, bought this Red 90 TC 55,000 miles on Tuesday last week in Florida, started out for home before 12 PM, stopped for sleep at 700 miles Continued driving next day for Dallas Texas, started raining real bad in Louisiana. Stopped on side of road, woke up to find car riding waves of water. Submarined into very deep ditch after about 20 minutes, broke out, swam to surface, 8Ft! found tree, climbed into tree. Hour and half later, someone came along. To make the story short, picked up by bass boat, taken into home for two days. 911 was not available.
  49. 1 point
    Paul, yours is an idea that a good number of regions would agree with. Postage costs for 2- and 3-ounce newsletters, mailed First Class, can add up! Here's another viewpoint--my own, from an editor's standpoint: Editors spend countless hours on preparing the newsletter-- in our region's case, it's 30 to 40 hours per issue. I spent 12 hours on one article, doing research, interviewing two different former Oldsmobile men, transcribing the recordings, and then composing the article. After all that work, it is satisfying to see the result in print for everyone--a tangible expression of all one's effort. For example, if a car owner spent hours and hours on a restoration, wouldn't he like to be able tangibly to drive it, rather than see images on a computer screen? And a well printed newsletter, in color and on high-quality paper, gives members a tangible return for their membership. For our older members who may not get out to events, that's the only tangible return they get for their dues. Some members save them for years. Printing the same newsletter on a home printer, on plain copy paper, doesn't produce the same excellence. Life is about excellence, always doing more and going up higher! I don't disagree with you at all, but wanted to present another view.