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Showing content with the highest reputation on 04/09/2016 in all areas

  1. 3 points
    Here's an FYI for all you nailhead junkies. The bore diameters are the same for the nailhead 401 and the Buick 430, and the nailhead 425 and the Buick 455. Only the strokes are different. The rings are the exactly the same/configuration. So if you can't find those 0.030" over 401 rings, look for some 0.030" over 430 rings.
  2. 1 point
    The Pace car controlled track time will be held on the Thunderbolt track beginning at 6:00 pm.
  3. 1 point
    This one clearly needs rocker work... May have other hidden rot, but I still dig it
  4. 1 point
    That's not a car for everyone. If Jake has been watching a similar car at 10,500, described as a decent price, for two years, then that tells you the market. While the color is not exotic ( like a red of any sort) the car is still huge, and a paint job of any fair quality will automatically put the owner over 10,500 invested. I submit that what is wrong with the old car market is it is still way overpriced.
  5. 1 point
    Did you try typing the building's address into your favorite search engine, to see what pops up? You might discover an old ad or mention of the dealership, from an old newspaper that's stored online. Of course, the street numbering system might have changed over the years, but it might be worth a try.
  6. 1 point
    In today's world of computers, etc, dying in all colors is available, from what I have been told. Heck, I had my Ultra Leather dyed for my Limited dash after it was covered in a color I didn't care for. It would be fun to see this car up and personal, sometimes QUALITY of workmanship will over power at LEAST some of the features one doesn't like. NOT saying I would fall in LOVE, just saying,,,,,, Dale in Indy
  7. 1 point
    Hey, it's just having some fun at nobody's expense. It's nobody's child, and nobody's getting hurt. It's not personal against anyone. Heck, maybe you like it. It's just personal taste.
  8. 1 point
    I would guess SOME of YOU would walk up to a grandmother as she walked in the maul with her NOT so beautiful granddaughter, and say, WOW, SHE IS ONE UGLY GIRL. I personally wouldn't buy this car, but come on,,,,,,,,,,we ALL don't need to like the same things. It was built to get ATTENTION, lots of arty things do that, so relax, putting stress on yourself by getting all worked up isn't smart, move on if you don't care for such. l am betting few, very few of you would walk up to the owner of this piece and say what you have said here. Dale in Indy
  9. 1 point
    Hi , Greg , Perhaps you could get additional information from the Murphy Auto Museum in Oxnard. While in Ox , see if you can include a visit to the Mullin Automotive Museum. You will enjoy this sophisticated museum very much. It is open to the public only 2 Saturdays a month. Tours are conducted by extremely informative docents. You can get into some very fascinating discussions with them. Good luck ! - Carl
  10. 1 point
    Contact your local : historic preservation planner.. They have all the info you will need.. If it was a Studebaker Dealer.. The clubs have list of all the old dealers...also.. http://www.studebaker-info.org/Dealers/page1.html
  11. 1 point
    FYI - The paint CARS LLC or inc comes from Bill Hirsch and they just relable it. I asked the salesman at CARS what to thin it with - he said he had no idea. I asked if it was from Hirsch and he said it was. Hirsch has a downloadable pdf on the paint it sells.A bit of laquer thinner did the trick btw.
  12. 1 point
  13. 1 point
  14. 1 point
    One thing you can do is order springs by specification. Your NAPA and/or others should be able to help you. Just count the turns on yours, and measure the diameter, and we know the pigtail ends top and bottom. If you want a stiffer ride, just get a thicker diameter material, if you want it raised, add another turn.
  15. 1 point
    Back to The Renault! There were at least two coach-building firms in France building sporting bodies of Renaults during the 1920s Probably LaBourdette was the best known. Lavocat et Marsaud was another. The illustration is from a Renault Advertisement from 1925.
  16. 1 point
    Dave, If you don't want to louver the hood, to let the heat out, you could do what I did, and wrap the exhaust pipe with heat tape. I did mine from the base of the exhaust manifold clear back to the muffler. Keeps the master cylinder a lot cooler too. Mike in Colorado
  17. 1 point
    I have to wait but 16 years for my first one, but will proudly salute those who will get one this year, especially Dandy Dave, from nearby. John
  18. 1 point
    I'm still waiting for a 1:18 2nd generation Riv in any color, with or without vinyl ! Closest they came was a nice 1:18 die-cast by ERTL, or Maisto, of the Oldsmobile Toronado, the boat tail Riviera, and Revell did a limited edition of a '66 or '67 Riviera in 1:24 scale. The first generation '65s have been presented in various scales, by different die-cast manufacturers.
  19. 1 point
    Yeah, I've been know to hijack the heck out of a thread from time to time. Should I go on to talk about "casseroles" vs "hot dishes"? By the way, around here a glass of soda pop (I'm being inclusive, aren't I?) with ice cream in it is called a "float". I have to say, and I should have said it well before, the whole buffalo nickels for frost plugs really is very interesting, trimacar. It was a fun bit of information.
  20. 1 point
    Sorry for the delay, finally got it done. Procedure for Generator Rear Bushing Replacement Applies to: Delco Remy 1102668 and similar generator used from 1940 to early 1950s. The rear bushing is pressed into the generator rear commutator frame. It has a small hole drilled in the side to allow a wick to carry oil from the oil reservoir in the rear frame to the armature shaft. Original GM part number for the bushing is 812823. Replacement part number is X4242C. Dimensions are 0.553" inside diameter by 0.784" outside diameter by 0.797" length. Cost is about $5. Original GM part number for the oil wick is 804076. A replacement can be obtained from John Deere, part number R11201 for about $1. X4242C has the hole predrilled. If this part cannot be obtained, X4242 is a suitable substitute, but the hole will have to be drilled as part of the installation procedure. This will be detailed below. The following procedure was developed from SB 66-51 (attached for convenience), and is assumed to be using a X4242 bushing. 1. Remove the generator from the vehicle. Remove the commutator cover band and rear brushes. 2. Remove the long bolts and nuts attaching the front frame, field frame, and commutator frame together. 3. Pull out the front frame, armature, and pulley assembly. 4. Check the new bushing on the rear of the armature shaft to ensure proper fit. If the shaft has not worn any the bushing may have to be reamed a bit. (N.B. The author's bushing fit well with no reaming required.) 5. Separate the commutator frame from the field frame. The screws used for attaching the brush leads may have to be removed to obtain the necessary clearance. 6. Remove the 3 screws folding the small cover on the external side of the commutator frame. Remove the cover, gasket, and any remaining wick. Discard the wick. 7. Place the commutator frame on top of an opened vise, internal side up, and use a 13mm or 9/16" long socket to drive the old bushing out the rear. (See Photo 1.) (N.B. The author's bushing required very little force to extract.) 8. Place the frame vertically in a vise with the external side facing out and the oiler cover facing down. Looking in the bushing cavity on the left side, down at the bottom the end of the oil wick plug will be seen. Using a pin punch or small drift, drive the plug out. (See Photo 2. Arrow is pointing to drift against plug end.) 9. Clean the commutator frame with a light solvent to remove old oil remnants. (See Photo 3 for a view of components.) 10. Place the commutator frame on an open vise with the external side facing up. Drive the new bushing in so the edge is flush with the bushing cavity edge. 11. Use a 1/4" drill bit to drill down through the oil wick hole that the plug was covering (removed in step 8), carving out a hole in the side of the bushing. This can be done with a portable drill but is much more easily done with a drill press with a drill press vise holding the frame in place. (See Photo 4 and 5. Hole in side of bushing can be clearly seen in Photo 5.) 12. Vacuum all metal shavings out of the frame. Deburr the edges of the hole in the bushing with a small piece of 220 grit sandpaper, followed for applications of 400, 600, 1000, and 1500 grit to smooth out the inside of the bushing around the hole. 13. Trim down one end of the new wick to make it easily insert into the oil wick hole. (See Photo 6.) 14. Pull through with needle nose pliers or similar and cut off the trimmed end. Pull enough through to coil into the oil reservoir to fill it up. (See Photo 7.) 15. Trim off the remainder at the top of the oil wick hole. The wick should physically be protruding through the hole on the bushing. (See Photo 8, arrow points to protruding wick.) 16. Replace the oil wick plug by driving it back in. (See Photo 9, plug in process of replacement.) 17. Cut a new gasket with thin gasket material using the old paper one as a template. 18. Thoroughly saturate the wick with oil and, using the newly cut gasket, replace the cover removed in step 6. (See Photo 10.) 19. Reassemble the generator frames, bolt up, and replace the brushes and commutator cover. Replace the generator into the vehicle. SB 66-51.pdf
  21. 1 point
    . I put a set of Skylark wheels on my '65 Gran Sport... .
  22. 1 point
    My first generation Riviera's... Baby Gran Sport - Midnight Blue over White... KX 64 - Coral Mist over White...
  23. 1 point
  24. 1 point
    So lucky to have this car. Just had it painted this summer. AS you can see the entire car is solid and pretty clean throughout. Been in our family since day one. Just had it appraised. Think I'll keep it and enjoy it for a while.