Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 11/02/2015 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    This is my project for how ever it takes me to finish. A 1917 Dodge Touring car. frame # 134646, (build sometime between, Feb.25 and Mar.27 1917. Firewall # T130559 Got it in Dallas in several boxes. I have most of the car except for what I come up short with when I'm trying to put it together. Seems like the small parts are the hardest to find. Here are a few pictures of what I have put together so far. Thanks!!
  2. 1 point
    Well, I finally pulled the trigger. It's not a 16V car, but it's a nice, straight, rust free '89 8V. I drove it home on the highway and in traffic with no problems. It needs some TLC, but the overall condition is fair. It will make a nice driver. The interior (ginger) isn't too beat up. The leather needs a GOOD cleaning and conditioning. The driver's seat has one small hole, but other than that just typical dry cracking that softened right up with conditioner. Same for the center console. The porthole windows are some of the best I have ever seen. The hard top headliner needs to be re-stuck and the leather on the dash needs to be put back in place, but I have seen WAY worse be brought back. She ran smooth, like a couch on wheels! Anyway, I am looking for a few parts. I need the center console switch cover and ash tray lid (the fake wood looking plastic part that goes over the seat switches, etc. Somebody just put screws right through the thing instead of fixing it and the lid is just broken to the point I'm not sure if I can fix it. I am thinking I might also need the polished trim part on the deck lid that is just behind the CHMSL that goes from side to side of the car just under where the hard top seals. I haven't taken the hard top off yet, but something is telling me this part is broken because of the way it looks. BTW, some may recognize my handle from a few years ago when I started building a 16V Masi engine when I was still living in Florida. That project is still goung, but the engine part is on hold as the rest of the car is being built to handle it! Lol. Rest assured, though that it WILL be completed!
  3. 1 point
    Hello Everyone, I just took delivery of Mark Shaw's old 1931 Buick 57. It's in great overall shape, with just a few minor things that need to be looked at. The most important of which (being that the car is now in Southern Texas) is the temperature. When the car is sitting/idling, the temperature climbs slowly, and never really levels off. This morning in 80 degree heat I watched it get up to 190 before I got nervous and pulled the plug. It has the original honeycomb radiator. The louvers on the front work properly. Mark mentioned that has gotten hot in the past, and it may need a chemical de-scaling. I'd like to try that first before I start getting more intense. I've done this on other modern vehicles using a Prestone pre-mixed bottle that you let run through the coolant system for 30 minutes....I am happy to do that again on this vehicle, but I want to check and see if there are any intricacies I'm unaware of, or if there is a different method I should be using. This is my first pre-war car, and I'm very excited to get started! Thanks in advance for everyone's help.
  4. 1 point
    No Ben, it's not! However, the scale is unusual: normally the zero is at 7 o'clock; on this one it's at 1 o'clock
  5. 1 point
    This`s how the factory accessory looks,the same on both side,but the originals are made for right side and for left side. Leif in Sweden.
  6. 1 point
    Thanks for taking the time to check us out, and add your comment. It's never too late to get into a Woodie...wish I had got this involved sooner!! I hope you watched the videos that Alex brought to this link. We are making up the various blanks for most of the wood, bandsawing and laminating it ready for carving the actual shapes. Many blanks require 2 to 3 laminations, even with the 2-1/2 inch thick ash we buy for this gem. Alex wil be here tomorrow, Monday, and we will take some pics of the blanks along with its pattern, to show the before and after effect. I am sure Alex will want to video the carving process!!! Which will start soon. If Carl, the new owner shows up, we will try to include him in the process. We have a few days of rain forecast, and it is a hairy trip for him to make ...winding mountain roads, best left alone during rain. I hope all turned their clocks back that needed to, don't be late on Monday!! I turned all mine back, but still on the old timeline, Mike
  7. 1 point
    Are you sure its not fuel, sounds to me like a classic case of the carb float not shutting off when the engine stops and letting the bowl overflow; pics would help.
  8. 1 point
    Tyler, I think originally your distributor breaker plate pivoted on 3 ball-bearings and may have been updated with the plastic pivots. I bought a Delco kit not long ago on ebay to update my `41 248 distributor and it was the plastic pivots, I can`t find the # of the Delco kit. This item was discussed here on the forum not long ago with # included, but I don`t know how to find the thread about it. Another option is a Dyna-Flyte 880 distributor plate, which I think is much better than the stock breaker plate, and may be hard to find. Fixing your distributor is most likely an easy fix, the breaker plate is without a doubt your problem. Tom
  9. 1 point
    Methinks that's a speedometer reading in kilometers.
  10. 1 point
    Me and my highly modified 1990 454SS pickup at a car show yesterday
  11. 1 point
    Ok, the Halloween-related event that I had the 41D at is over, so I moved the battery to the 76R. I primed the carb, then started with a hose into a 2-gallon fuel bottle to check that the car would continue running off the bottle (that the engine driven fuel pump works). Yes, that worked better than I thought. So I transferred the wheels/tires over from the 41D. Only 5 jack stands, so I had to do one wheel at a time... Started the 76R, and took it around the block a couple of times. Left it at the bottom of the driveway to sweep out the garage space, then put it back. So now, it's a driver (on borrowed wheels)!
  12. 1 point
    Please don't use gasoline on a brush pile. Too volatile.
  13. 1 point
    For what its worth. Referring to my opinion. Sorry if I confused you. I DO admire your work. Ben
  14. 1 point
    Well Al, whether or not Mike likes it or not, I think it would be great. FWIW, I will be pulling for it to be done. Ben
  15. 1 point
    If you have a few minutes, I'd like to hear your comments being that I'm not familiar with the wood details and Estate Wagon's rear storage compartment areas to make this work. Would you foresee any potential hidden problems one might encounter modifying your 1953 Super Estate Wagon into a phantom 1953 Buick SKYMASTER Estate Wagon, similar to what is shown in this Buick General Forum link, Picture #4.....http://www.auto-visuals.com/cars-that-never-were.asp#4.....beyond completing the following work? 1. Replacing both front fenders and the stamped stainless steel fender mouldings with OEM 1953 Skylark front fenders and OEM Skylark solid stainless steel mouldings. Radiused openings are already there and there are no portholes in a Skylark fender. 2. Retaining the OEM Super/Roadmaster Estate Wagon doors and glass, as is, and forgetting about the rear door wing-window look. Plug up all the extra OEM moulding holes and fabricate custom solid stainless steel door mouldings for all four doors. Add the SKYLARK crest ornaments or custom fabricate SKYMASTER ornaments. 3. It might be easier to replace the rear fenders with modified 1953 Skylark rear fenders that already have the wheel well radius there rather than using the Super/Roadmaster rear fenders that have the horizontal crease in them. The location of the gas-filler door should be the same. Plug up the extra holes and fabricate solid stainless steel mouldings for both rear fenders. 4. The hood portholes almost look like 1950 Buick items. If that look was preferred, holes would have to be made into a 1953 Buick alligator-style opening hood rather than using a 1950 opposite-sides opening hood. I have plenty of Skylark parts that need to be used somewhere. Thanks for your time and any insight you have to offer. A good idea or not? Al Malachowski BCA #8965 "500 Miles West of Flint"
  16. 1 point
    In the next few weeks Ill be "Knocking in the head" this Franklin sedan. Drop me a note what you need, I may be able to help! Mike 585 738 1541 Other Franklin parts 1928-1934 available .
  17. 1 point
    Still working on it, here is the motor getting put together.
  18. 1 point
    an old trick to keeping the torus gasket in place while you're putting the engine and hydra-matic back together, is to use sewing tread and tie the gasket to the flywheel in several places. charles l. coker 1953 pontiac tech advisor tech advisor coordinator poci
  19. 1 point
    Well guys, you did it again! You ran a 19 year old, on a budget, away from our hobby. How many of you as kids, placed playing cars with clothspins next to your spokes on your bicycles, I did. Then spent hard earned money collecting pop bottles and mowing grass on handlebar grips with plastic streamers, I did. I hate to think what the bicycle purists thought of me. I guess you all are to far removed from a budget to remember how it was. I am trying to interest young people to get involved in saving/restoring old cars. My shop is always open to young people who want to learn how to turn a wrench. My great nephew went from building a dune buggy (he calls it a sand rail) to a 1967 Barracuda he found as all orginial.
  20. 1 point
    Found a picture of my great grandfathers 7 pass touring, finally. He is shown here with it at his house in Portland OR. Looks like I need to get a new hat and suit.
  21. 1 point
    i have a pair of nos gold plated indian chief car keys that i bought many years ago, and with them, an old pontiac indian chief key pouch. the nos 1953-57 buick power antenna finally got here, after the seller's friend ship it to the wrong address, and the address is for one of my 1953 pontiac buddies up in munger, mich. lol. the 1954 pontiac dealer item i found and bought on ebay, indian chief on one end and a small horseshoe on the other end of the chain, backside of the indian chief head has engraved "pontiac for '54" i've never seen one before i found this one. charles coker, 1953 pontiac tech advisor.
  22. 1 point
    Last Saturday I was lucky to find a small family tire store open on Saturday and had (4) ST 235 80 R 16 E trailer tires mounted - balanced - installed for less than $580.00. While I was there, someone with a horse trailer called from the interstate with a blowout, service call was only $69.00 to send out a truck to change a 16 inch trailer tire. Labor to change the tire and the tire were extra ... I always try to do business with local family owned companies. Call these guys for passenger, light and heavy commercial truck tire needs if you live in - near - or passing thru Lexington, Kentucky: B & B Morgan Tire of Lexington, KY Jim
  23. 1 point
    this is a rare 1954 pontiac factory air conditioning operating instructions.
  24. 1 point
    i have over the years collected just about everything related to my 1953 custom catalina in the way of paperwork, brochures, and warranties. i thought i would share them with the forum, the 1954 pontiac air conditioning operating instructions is one of my most prized pieces, there's two 1953 pontiac mechanical pencils, instructions for the autronic eye, 1953 motorama information, two different factory tours from 1953, two different option and accessories price list amd model prices for 1953. all of the pieces fit inside an open sided storage paper pouch.
  25. 1 point
    the december/2012 issue of the pontiac oakland club international's magazine smoke signal feature a pontiac air conditioning history article written by me, and the smoke signal editor, don keefe, used two of the four pictures above to show my car with the 54 pontiac a/c dash pieces installed.