Leaderboard

The search index is currently processing. Leaderboard results may not be complete.

Popular Content

Showing content with the highest reputation on 10/16/2015 in all areas

  1. 2 points
    Thanks David, I want to be sure to clarify what happened with the oil pump in case someone else has this problem. The pipe/tube I referenced is press-fit into the vacuum pump housing. It protrudes through the hole in the seperator plate, which is not a tight fit. At some point in the life of the engine, the pipe/tube dislodged from the housing and was able to rattle around in the oil pump intake gallery next to the idler gear. I don't know if this had any effect on oil pressure/production, but the tube is pretty chewed-up as well as the gear. The machine shop has instructions that the seats are not to be replaced for the reasons you mentioned. I was concerned that the rust pitting in the existing seat was too deep to be cut out, but they said the pitting wasn't as deep as originally thought. If the seats were too damaged to re-use, I had the option of using the valves from a 1959 nailhead, which are slightly larger in diameter. This would allow the machine shop to cut the existing seats slightly larger to match. These are things I learned in motorcycle vo-tech in the 1990s, that I had all but forgotten, but Russ with Centerville reminded me. I ordered new valves on Monday, and they arrived yesterday. I'm taking them to the machine shop this morning!
  2. 1 point
    With the MS Snipping Tool program you can copy, save, or print anything you see on your computer screen. (I use Windows 7 and it's already installed, but I'd think you can download it from Microsoft's website if you don't have it).
  3. 1 point
    Their website states that they will only be responsible for damage of shipment if in a wooden crate. They will take uncrated items, I would assume boxed, but are not responsible for damage of those items. I tried to copy statement from Fastenal site but couldn't, go to Fastenal, services, 3PL.....
  4. 1 point
    Duster is nice but look for a 71-72 Twister with 340. Sweet spot for you to mix desires with amenitities may be 1968-72. After 72 bumpers got silly and the concentration was on driving from Denver to LA on a tank. There were some interesting cars in the later seventies (1971-1974 Trans/Am 455 particularly the SD-455) but they ain't cheap OTOH a ' 73 Ventura Sprint is essentially what became the '74 GTO (with optional camper package). Or for safety, the 69-72 Grand Prix had the longest hood in the industry. Have an accident ? It'l be going on somewhere in the next county & not where you are sitting. Were even a few with four-speeds (years ago I had a '70. H-78 tires and open 12-bolt. It was called asphyxiation.
  5. 1 point
    Those California State Troopers must have a real CHP on their shoulder.
  6. 1 point
    I was just sitting outside my garage having a beer and admiring my black 39 Royal, Geeeezzz their a big bulky car, aren't they ?? R
  7. 1 point
    I was helping a lady find a car for her two sons...she wanted a 1967 Impala 4-door sedan for them. Except for driving one with a 327 3,700 miles to Alaska in 1974....I have no experience with them. What is interesting is that there is a huge supply of these cars out there: every state, every condition, every factory option, plus some modified. You might want to consider one because of the big range of powerplants they came with, and because the police and insurance agents won't profile you as Teenager In a Muscle Car. I thought the 327 was plenty of motor. Doesn't exactly handle like an MG...but like a Chevy Tahoe, they're big but predictable. Don't completely rule out the Eighties. Again, if you don't mind a 4-door: Pictured is a 1989 Lamborghini LM002 4WD, 444 h.p. V-12, 0-60 7.7 seconds. Cost: not so good. Daily driver: with the 6 dual Weber carburetors, not so good. The insurance on this puppy will cost more than any of the cars you're looking at. Fuel consumption is bad, but you can go 600 miles on a fill-up (76-gallon tank). Collectible: very. Coolness factor: fair to good. photo: Wikipedia Good luck in your search for a vehicle as you take off for college!
  8. 1 point
  9. 1 point
    I have the complete breaker board which has the circuit breaker and ignition resistors mounted removed from my car and sitting on my work bench . I ground off the rivets , removed cage. I cleaned the contacts and wire brushed the whole unit. I see no reason this will not work again. The resistors are available from venders. The cage can be reinstalled using very small nuts, bolts; and lock washers. Be sure and TAG EVERY WIRE! Take photos--- Larry
  10. 1 point
    AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAAARRRRRRRRRRRRRRGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGGHHHHHHHHHH!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! Not yet....
  11. 1 point
    I will admit that I had help. 75 hp nitrous shot, open headers, water/menthol spray and cheater slicks.
  12. 1 point
    What I was looking for was a way to be able to cruise along at 60 miles per hour with the engine thinking its going 40 miles per hour and yet to keep the performance and hill climbing ability of the car with stock gears using the original motor which only had about a hundred horsepower. I don't think there is any way to do ALL of that except with an overdrive, with any other method there is a compromise in one of those expectations. Sixty miles per hour is not to fast for these cars and they can be driven like that with out any strain on the rest of the components all day if need be. Back when they were new there was no need for a car to cruise at sixty miles per hour, much more important to have enough power to be able to climb hills. Its just fun trying to do what ever we can to keep these old cars running decent and experiencing the joy of driving them.
  13. 1 point
    So nice to see all of the photos from Hershey ... thanks again everyone. Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"Wonderin' what's real and wonderin' why" __ Andy & Terry Murray __ 'Treasures For The Road'
  14. 1 point
    Why do you think that's asking too much? Because of the particular combination vs. type of vehicle you want? My current daily is a 1979 Caprice Classic. For me, it is practical, affordable, performs well & has awesome reliability ... never had an issue with it not starting, even in winter. Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"Why can't this be real?" __ Restless Heart __ 'Fast Movin' Train'
  15. 1 point
    ...or how things change when you're forced to sell "sunny day only" cars...... Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"I argue with my conscience" __ Charlie Pride __ 'Shouldn't It Be Easier Than This?'
  16. 1 point
    Always enjoy perusing your photos, cutlasguy ... thank you for posting the links here! Cort www.oldcarsstronghearts.com pigValve, paceMaker, cowValve | 1979 Caprice Classic (awaiting new owner)"Got my pedal to the metal" __ Sheryl Crow __ 'Real Gone'
  17. 1 point
    ok awesome. thanks 5563 for reminding me of that tool. i used one to plane down the top of an old door a couple months back and it worked so damned well i can't believe i didn't think of it. and btw the orbital with a slightly used 120 grit didn't work. 80 would be better, 50 better yet, but still i wouldnt bother with anything but a rasp. got it at Ace for like $12, foot long, stanley, fyi. i think that has turned this last effort from an epic fail to an epic success! you can see from my pics that i basically have solid foam with an almost, but fairly flat surface. you can read of Buick mans critique of this foam and decide for yourself whether to do this and coat it with something else, use as is, or S can the whole idea, but here are some pictures of what this foam will do for you. Since i slathered it on with a rubber glove, it is much harder than w/o, just sawed flat with the carpenters saw. However there are alot of places just like that, with open foam surfaces, that would obviously break down quicker than where the surface was unscathed. Decide for yourself. I am thinking i will still follow plan A, which was coat it with the liquid rubber in a can to level it better and also to protect the porous surface. however, it is so flat, i think a piece of light foam plastic stuff, (esp that wood floor sub flooring), might make the rubber overkill. it would, no doubt tho, make it less prone to falling apart ala buick mans experience years ago.
  18. 1 point
    Take 81 south to 90, hang a right and in four hours you'll be close. Take extra money and see what else they have. Great excuse for a road trip. Bernie
  19. 1 point
    Somewhere in the attic, I have a scrapbook that I started about 55 years ago. There is an article from Popular Mechanix, I think, about Herb and his father bringing the CDO home in bushel baskets and restoring it.
  20. 1 point
  21. 1 point
    Not a problem. Take the balancer to a good parts store, and they will sell you a thin metal sleeve that can be tapped down over the sealing point to give a clean and smooth surface.
  22. 1 point
    Thanks dave. My Car was caught in both of those links.
  23. 1 point
    We added a compilation of Tuesday through Saturday Herhsey photos to our club website which you can view via the following link: http://www.aacabosh.org/shows/pictures-from-the-2015-aaca-hershey-eastern-fall-meet/nggallery/thumbnails Bob
  24. 1 point
    Cutlass Guy, thank you for sharing the pictures. With such a big event, there are always cars where I remark, "Where was that? I didn't notice that one at the show!" Your pictures let us relive the enjoyment.
  25. 1 point
    Enjoyed the race cars at the Hershey Centre on Friday. Plus the high wheeler race was great to watch.