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Showing content with the highest reputation on 06/03/2015 in all areas

  1. 1 point
    Hello to all car enthusiasts, This is my first post to the forum and actually my first ever antique car. I’m Cuban and all my life I was surrounded by cars from the past. I’ve always dreamed of having one back in the Island but such cars are more of a luxury, and only a few people can afford to buy. When I came to the States, I realized that even thought, a lot of the classics are expensive, there is an option to every pocket. Time passed and life kept me busy, I married, had kids and my dream of owning a classic went to the back of my mind. My dream torpid quietly, until last year when we stop by a local car show. My wife and specially my boys (2 and 4 years old) loved the cars. The giant awaken in me and as my wife knows, when an idea grab me, I don’t rest until it is satisfied. With her OK the search started, she just made a request, she wanted us to look for an art deco classic. I confess that my heart was more into the fifties, the ones that I have grown up with back in my country, but when you get your wife on board a project like this, please try to make her happy. During my search I truly fell in love with the thirties, those fenders, grill and suicide doors have an incredible appeal. I spent countless hours on ebay and craiglist looking for the perfect match; a car from the thirties, in solid condition (never have done body work) and accessible to my pocket (not deep at all). Finally in Connecticut, a truly barn find came to the light; a beautiful 1936 Plymouth, parked since 1954 inside a warehouse. A couple of weeks later and a few calls, the whole family went to check the prospect. Just as we wanted it; unrestored, complete and in solid condition, just waiting for its chance to come back to life. Next day my son and I went back with a trailer and our new family member was on its way home. I'm not sure how long this project is going to take, but what I do know is that it would be a lot of fun, hard work, sweat and guidance from experiences.
  2. 1 point
    OK Gerard: I can't answer you question for several reasons. The car I did is undercover, our area is somewhat dry compared to the Eastern part of the country, I haven't really gotten the car wet to the degree of how it would be had it been parked outside in heavy precipitation. I didn't use clear. I used some lemon oil and that seemed to darken the veneer up a wee bit after the stain settled. I hope this lasts because I would have to take the door panel off and repeat the process if it fails. One last item of note. Clarks offers pins that fasten the door panel to the door shell. The upholstery shop I used used grasshopper clips. The advantage is that they are forgiving and the door panel can be removed many times with out the fasteners falling apart. Now......the pins that hold the metal backing plate in place may not be as forgiving! Your wood is looking good Chris. Mitch
  3. 1 point
    All, Two of my other Kissels are currently "inert" and unable to come out - but soon they will be. The pictured blue one is a 1924 Kissel Model 6-55 Victoria Coupe - the only one that survives. It will be driving at this year's St. John's Concours de Elegance as an unrestored original. The other one being restored is va 1918 Kissel Model 6-38 All-Year Sedanette. - the only one that survives and possibly the only Kissel All-Year bodied car that has both tops of all years. It will take another year to rehabilitate her. A very big car! Ron Hausmann P.E.
  4. 1 point
    I met her at the Eyes on Design Show held on the Edsel Ford Estate grounds several years ago. She told me it was getting hard for her to steer the car. Dandy Dave!
  5. 1 point
    Clean up would be a breeze. For starters, you can sweep the leaves out quickly, right through the floorboards. Also, it starts making you money the minute you start selling the mice under the back seat to your local mad scientist. It's a no-brainer! TG
  6. 1 point
    Because the cars you buy are unique, and there is no going out and "buying one done." The only one that's done is sometime in the future when you finish it.
  7. 1 point
    solid chop top project,complete with orig drivetrain $5000 (can also supply orig height roof posts) lots of chrome,stainless,dash parts from roadmaster 2 door I have parted out also have xtra wagon liftgate and inside painted metal trim moldings NEED 58 tailgate chrome emblem,letters
  8. 1 point
    I have a 53 rear end complete brake drums and all $200 it is to heavy to ship I live in springfield mo. call 417 751-3828 skip
  9. 1 point
    about the same info my wife gives me when she wants a "project" completed around the house............................................................
  10. 1 point
    I get the feeling that even if the lens is available, it isn't good enough for Mirko. That, or he just wants to do it because he can. Dude is a monster. Period.
  11. 1 point
    Finally can contribute with a completed driving car! Set sail for first voyage over weekend. Not the 66 project I have been working on but a quick fun project. Picked this up cheap before Christmas. Yes this is the one with the back window broken out of it from an exploding can of fix-a-flat and that had sat outside for over a year and didn't run.....and the car I tried my best to get someone else to buy for two months because I didn't need or want another car. It was destiny. True diamond in the rough. About 40 hours work, $850 in tires and other parts and its running and driving beautifully. I'm sure something else will crop up needing addressed as we start to drive it more but hopefully nothing major. 59k original miles. Feels good to drive a boattail again. I forgot how long the hoods are!
  12. 1 point
    Does anyone know of a place to get a new fan belt for a 1930 Dodge DC8? I have had the car for many years and am close to trying to start it but need a fan belt as the one on it is crumbling. Any help is appreciated.
  13. 1 point
    Tires on rims... cleaning off the blue coating...
  14. 1 point
    I have a 1935 Chrysler CZ DeLuxe 8 and am wondering if anyone knows where I can get the gear shift knob restored to original. It is not just a plain knob, it has an intricate design in it and I want to keep it original. Thanks. Bob
  15. 1 point
    Dwight, Here are a couple pictures of the 1935 CZ shift knob. As you can see, the horn button and the shift knob have the same pattern for the inset. I would like to be able to get them both restored to new condition if possible. Pictures are from the internet, not mine.Thank you for your interest. Bob
  16. 1 point
    What is the best way to clean headlight reflectors that will take out any light dirt and finger prints? I have a set of NOS reflectors that I would like to make perfectly clean before installing them. Thanks.
  17. 1 point
    Great info from all, thank you. Keiser31, that sounds like about the best approach - depending on the cost. What I have are two NOS reflectors that have a slight dullness to them and a few small smudge marks (look like fingerprint marks). I might be better off to just clean them up a bit with a damp, soft cloth and dry them before installing them.
  18. 1 point
    Some photos that my wife took of "the big drive" aka "the yard lap". Also updated the avatar based on photos of my cars. Not sure how long I'll stick with that one.
  19. 1 point
    Video: Engine start & run: http://youtu.be/G-xmP7Mqut8 Exhaust view (short): http://youtu.be/ODkIUn6ZeuA
  20. 1 point
    Thanks. A lot of time and effort went into that. I did a TON of research and with the help of the guys here it is as factory original as possible. I think it came out pretty good.:)You can get the paint pre-mixed from several different sources but I got mine from the POR-15 company. They make engine paints in the correct colors listed by year and make. I am extremely satisfied with mine. I cleaned and painted the hinges. They are a little more metal flake looking than they should be. Originally they were just bare metal color. Good thinking on not running it long. I messed up when I bought mine and tried to drive it around before cleaning everything. Big mistake. Everything got clogged up. I cleaned and resealed the gas tank, dropped and cleaned the trans. pan and oil pan(4 inches of sludge in the oil pan!), took the valve cover off and disassembled and cleaned the rocker arm assembly, cleaned under the push rod cover, replaced the push rods and lifters(could have cleaned the old ones and re-used but didn't), rebuilt the carb., had the radiator boiled out and tested, flushed out the cooling system, and replaced the water pump. And of course all the other stuff like gaskets, hoses, spark plugs and wires, points, dist. cap, etc. I got the original fuel pump rebuilt by Then and Now and also added an electric pump to help with vapor lock and priming. Electric pumps are almost a MUST on older cars. Lots of other stuff too but you can look through the 38 or so pages of my thread. Should help some. I got my trans. stuff from David Edwards at Autotran. Incredibly satisfied with the parts and with David's help. All I did to the rear end was to take the cover off, drain the old nasty whale oil, and put a new gasket on it. Here's what I use as far as fluids: Differential: 80W-90 Gear Oil Brake Fluid: DOT 3 Engine Oil: Shell Rotella 30W Dynaflow Trans: Dexron III Hydraulic Shocks:AW 32 Hydraulic/Jack Oil Here's a list I've compiled of parts vendors too. NOS, New, and Used Buick Parts and Services: Bob's Automobilia 3352 South El Pomar Templeton, CA 93465 805-434-2963 http://www.bobsautomobilia.com Classic Buicks P.O. Box 28 Dallas, OR 97338-0028 http://www.classicbuicks.com The Buick Farm PO Box 384 Clayton, DE 19938 http://www.buickfarm.com CARs, Inc. 205 Pearl St Neshanic Station, NJ 08853 908-369-3666 http://www.oldbuickparts.com Fusick Automotive Products 22 Thompson Road P.O. Box 655 East Windsor, CT 06088 (860)623-1589 http://www.fusickautomotiveproducts.com/departments.asp?dept=189 AutoTran Antique Automatic Trans. Parts David Edwards 56 Dale Street, Dept. A Needham Heights, MA 02494-1218 781-449-2065 http://www.autotran.us/dfparts1.html Jim's Dynaflow Service Jim Hughes Perrysburg, OH 419-874-2393 Fatsco Tranmission Parts 337 ChangeBridge Road PO Box 635 Pine Brook, NJ 07058 973-227-2487 800-524-0485 For Sales Dial #2 http://www.fatsco.com/index.htm Antique Auto Supply 1225 Colorado Ln. Arlington, TX 76015 817-275-2381 http://www.antiqueautosupply.com/ Classic NOS Parts 815-399-1075 http://www.classicnosparts.com/ Classic 2 Current Fabrication, LLC Reproduction Floor Pans 24536 Capitol St. Redford, MI 48239 313-534-2886 https://c2cfabrication.com/index.html Inline Tube Brake Lines/Brake Parts 15066 Technology Drive Shelby Township, Michigan 48315 586-532-1338 http://www.inlinetube.com/ Steele Rubber Products 6180 E. NC 150 HWY Denver, NC 28037 Phone: 704-483-9343 http://www.steelerubber.com/ Kanter Auto Products 76 Monroe St Boonton, NJ 07005 1-800-526-1096 973-334-9575 http://www.kanter.com/ TA Performance Products 16167 N. 81st Street Scottsdale, AZ 85260 480-922-6807 http://www.taperformance.com Used Buick Parts: Moore's Auto Salvage 1761 Country Road Rapid City, SD 57701 605-348-4926 http://www.mooresautosalvage.com Services: Scott Speedometer Service Corp. 196-198 W. Walton Blvd. Pontiac, MI 48340 Tel: 248-338-4148 speedoshop@sbcglobal.net http://scottspeedometer.com/ Then & Now Automotive 447 Washington St Weymouth, MA. 02188 Monday to Friday, 8am to 5pm EST Ljthen2@aol.com 781-335-8860 OR 781-335-1579 http://www.maritimedragracing.com/then_and_now_automotive.htm
  21. 1 point
    They're so reliable you don't have to rebuild! Lol. But seriously, mine was sitting for 40 years and all I had to do was clean it inside and replace seals and gaskets throughout the engine and some in the trans. I've put 4,000+ miles on it since and had no trouble. I did a tiny bit of painting too. :cool: The old straight eights are built to last!
  22. 1 point
    Thanks for the advice on the engine enamel vs. rust encapsulator. I have those couple of parts in soda soak now, but I'm going to hold off coatings until I can try media blast. With that capability, the vinegar soak may be moot for all but the smallest parts. I've already proven to myself I can shine up some pretty tiny screws and washers on the wheel. A carry-over from the aluminum work - it's a Scotchbrite wheel on a bench grinder (about $70 just for the wheel, from aircraft tool suppliers). Much less intimidating (to bare fingers) than a wire brush wheel - I don't use gloves for the screws, etc. for better ability to maneuver them around. Your finger has to hit that wheel pretty hard to get zinged, and even then it only leaves a hot spot but doesn't break the skin. So pretty nice for shining up bolt heads & washers. http://www.averytools.com/prodinfo.asp?number=3753 - Link to scotchbrite wheel. Couple of examples of bolts cleaned up on the Scotchbrite wheel. Interesting the lock washers for the coil bracket have ridges along the edge (left bolts in 2nd photo). The bolts in the right side of the 2nd photo are the thermostat housing to head bolts - those are Al crush washers, and they look like they've had some crushing. Anyone have a source for these?
  23. 1 point
    Well.... Finally was able to figure out how to re-size pictures that seem to work on my system (and for my technically challenged mine). This is what I purchased for my good Limited. After a good bit of elbow grease with some metal polish, here is what they came out like. AANNNDDD....... This is what the sky looked like just after I got home right after that limb fell down! That system followed me home from South Bend and had I left an hour latter, would have been on the freeway when it hit. Fortunately no one was hurt in that storm but it took the hydro out in some areas for about two hours. Still worth the trip and enjoyed meeting great Buick People!
  24. 1 point
    They're cool Ill give them that but I would personally never own one.
  25. 1 point
    84 T-type I had 1990 to 1994 :eek: wishes