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  1. 13 likes
    Drove my '50 about 40 miles today . Running stronger every time I take him out. Ended up by one of the local lakes for a picture. Ben
  2. 12 likes
    You asked for the video, you shall receive! I hope everyone likes my joke at the end... It's really funny, the lopey and poor driveability was terrible oil. I did the oil change today. I used Valvoline VR1 20W-50 and the car runs like brand new. It also had a FRAM filter in there... now replaced with a WIX filter. Also I couldn't figure out why the WCFB won't pull off the choke. There is vacuum to the heat stove, and I waited 5 minutes... today it's 78 degrees outside, it's not cold or anything. Looks like I'm going to have to tear it back down and see what's going on with that gasket. For now, the 4GC is back on. I don't have a good choke stove tube for it, so it's just running the electric choke for now. This engine deserves respect, and aside from the valve covers with the 401 rockers underneath and the late 50's Buick fuel filter, it's going to be mostly stock, IE no additional modifications like a PCV system or a newer carburetor. Oil bath filter, too. It's an original running motor, it needs to be preserved with dignity. I'll save the Edelbrock and stuff for my new engine. I don't know what the original caretakers of this engine did for maintenance, but it'll be babied from here on out.
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    Still can't figure out the WCFB choke. The choke won't heat up after 5 minutes and pull off, I think my choke spring is beat. Going to probably swap back to the 4GC tomorrow since I'm a little hesitant to go back to the Edelbrock. While it was the best running carb, it just doesn't feel right to try and do up this rescue engine like that. Oh and here's a good one for you guys. We were trying to line up the block and tranny and when it finally went snug (with taking awareness to torque converter drain plugs this time), one of the torque converter to flywheel housing bolts fell out. Gasp! So, what we ended up doing was taking 3 bread ties, wrapping them together, then stripping the paper off one end and wrapping it around the threads of the bolt. I then had to snake it back through the hole... we were not pulling the engine back out again! Also I used what I thought was the mark on the balancer for TDC, but ended up being a paint smudge... turns out we were 180 out. So after I pulled the distributor again, I set the balancer to 5 BDC, dropped it back in so it was pointing at #1, marked the base with a highlighter close to where I thought #1 plug wire was on the cap, lined the highlighter mark up with the rotor, and put everything back together... when it fired off, it was at TDC exactly.. I was 5 degrees off. All in all, lots of fun. My dad bailed on me around 3:30 PM after it was seated in. The rest of the night I spent doing all the small 1 man stuff... alternator, vacuum hoses, etc. Here's a pic of the engine my dad took right after we got it butted up to the transmission (he hasn't uploaded our special torque converter bolt installer yet): The next thing I gotta do before going to college is rip the dash back apart. My oil gauge stopped working for some reason and needs to be investigated. When we fired it up at the guy's place, we noticed about 40 psi. Is that normal? Also the radio has been cutting in and out, I think one of the big capacitors is grounding out on the inside after going over some heinous bumps.... and maybe I can get the clock working, too! I've also decided against doing a compression check... I want to know, but I don't want to know... lol. This about wraps up the thread... I guess when I get to machining the other engine, I'll make a new one. Thank you everyone for advice, support and feedback with everything that has gone on in this thread. As always, it is greatly appreciated no matter what the subject matter and content is. I learn something new every time I come on here and ask questions.
  4. 11 likes
    So the hard work is done and the 67 Buick Sportwagon GS 400 clone is ready to drive and enjoy. Newly rebuilt 400 BB and T-400 now have about 100 miles on them and so far so good. In our 95-100 degree weather the engine temperature is 190 -200 degrees, I tried the factory A/C several days ago for 3-4 miles at 30-45 MPH in urban setting going back to my house from downtown and it worked well but engine temp climbed to 210. I spent 4 long days working at the interior shop to get all the folding seat hardware put back together using all the special nuts, bolts, screws, etc. then added seat backs, and finally put the seats and hardware back in the car with shop personnel help. Interior Shop: re-covered the 2nd and 3rd seats, (front bench seat and carpet already done), made new side and odd shaped filler panels out of a dense black board and then covered them with the correct vinyl to match the seats, recovered the wheel well humps and spare tire cover, made new carpet to go between back of front seat and up behind the second seat, all the flat metal pieces that are on the back of the 2nd and 3rd seats recovered in new carpet new carpet on all other floor panels including the storage compartment cover and side panels. I had previously refinished all the metal in black and had 8-10 pieces powder coated in black. Installed all newly refurbished seat belts from Ssnake Oyl. Then had the red pinstripes painted on. I still have some minor odds and ends to do but car should be ready for the BCA meet in Brookfield, Wisconsin July 5-8Black is hot but sure looks good when cleaned and dusted
  5. 11 likes
    We had a Memorial Day weekend with 80 degree weather, first time in over 20 years. I drove my 55, and cleaned it up a bit as it had been down since last year with a bad fuel pump that was finally rebuilt. Also took my 70 out a few times. :>)
  6. 11 likes
    Had a very beautiful day today for a cruise in.
  7. 10 likes
    You folks are absolutely amazing! One of the frequent posters on this site was drawing concern over posts that just did not seem like his style and became increasingly unreadable. A few members noticed and were able to seek medical attention for him. F&J....we're pulling for you.
  8. 10 likes
    So: I went to my local ACE Hardware to get some extra keys for the Electra. I did get an extra ignition key back when I got the car, but for some reason I did not get an extra trunk key, but that’s not important. I wanted to get both an ignition key and trunk key now. So the clerk who has helped me in the past with other keys offers to assist. I’ll call him Clerk1. Here’s how it went: Me: I’d like to get one key like this ( Ignition Key) and two of these ( trunk Key). There is a letter code on the blanks here. I hope you still have the blanks. Clerk 1: Looks at the key and then stuffs the ignition key into a slot below the computer. He looks at the computer, pulls the key out of the slot and stuffs it back in. Keys some stuff on the keyboard and pulls the key out and then stuffs it into a different slot machine next the computer. Types a bunch of other stuff and then asks me what type of car it is. Me: It’s a 72 Buick Electra, but the code for the blank can be seen on the key, do you have blanks with that code. Clerk 1 looks at the rack of keys and picks one off but puts it back and spins the carousel. Then he sighs and takes the key and stuffs it into the slot below the computer again. Types more stuff and asks me to id the car again. Pulls the key out and stuffs it into the other slot and then selects a blank off the board. He cuts the key and hands them to me to which I checked and he had the right blank. Me: This is good, now I need two of these (trunk key). Clerk1, same basic scenario as above. After a few more minutes he pulls another square keyhead blank off the same rack. Me: I think that’s wrong. It should be a round key. Clerk1: Sir, that’s not what the computer says. It says right there that it should be this blank Me: That can’t be right. It should be a round key, what’s the code on the blank? Does it match my key? Clerk 1: You can’t go by that. Our blanks are not the same as your keys, they are different and the computer says that is the right blank. Do you want me to cut it or not? Me: Okay, go ahead and cut it. Clerk1 hands me the two keys which of course matched perfectly in terms of the tumbler surface, but which were totally different in terms of the side slots. Me: See this, this key won’t go into the lock. This cannot be right. Clerk1 takes the keys and says the cut matches perfectly. Me: I agree, but the slots are wrong. This key will not go into my lock. Clerk1: This is the right key according to the computer but I see what you mean. Clerk1 then calls for assistance. Clerk2 arrives and the situation is explained by Clerk 1. Clerk2: Well, You gotta go by the code on the original key. See here, this one is a code C, so you use a code C off the board. Clerk1: But that’s not what the computer says. Clerk2: You can’t go by the computer. These car guys know their cars. You only go by the code on the key. What’s that screen you have on the computer? You shouldn’t even be on that screen. That’s not right! Here, here is the blank with the code C, use that one. Clerk1: cuts the keys and hands them to me and apologizes several times for his errors. Me: Don’t worry about it…. LOL…
  9. 10 likes
    Since a couple of people have asked... A regular reader of his car restoration discussion noticed signs of medical issues. Frank had posted some photos that included his address. The reader reported his concerns about the recent erratic posts and suspected worsening medical issues. I was able to do a Google search for the local law enforcement agency in Frank's location and obtained their phone number. I called the law enforcement agency, reported the concerns and asked them to check on his medical condition based on those facts. They responded to his home and, after investigating summoned an ambulance to transport him for treatment. The world is a smaller place than it used to be. We can all look out for each other even if we are in distant locations.
  10. 10 likes
    Old cars wear the light perfumes of gasoline vapors, antifreeze, and oil. If it's not overpowering, it's just part of the romance. Drive and enjoy...put the wrenches down until something breaks.
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    LeSabre Concept car comes to life, driving around
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    Today was "Pistons on the square" drove the Reatta and there were a total of 84 cars.
  13. 10 likes
    After a discussion elsewhere (http://forums.aaca.org/topic/292643-maintenance/) I figured I'd share what I did to get the Limited's rear end and transmission back into shape. Last year, after considerable research, I decided to use 85W90 in both the transmission and rear end. I found a suitable GL4 oil that would work and since 90W was the recommended viscosity in the manual, I figured that was the smart choice. Shortly thereafter, I noticed that it was really tough to get the transmission into 1st gear after it was warmed up. I installed new bushings for the linkage, and while it helped, it was still a struggle to get first gear at a stop light. I felt like I was abusing the hardware. Something was wrong and it wasn't like that before. That meant I screwed it up. Fortunately, that also narrowed down the list of suspects. At the same time, I think the rear end got louder. This was harder to quantify, since all I did was top off what was already in the rear end when I got the car. It took a surprising amount to fill it up, which suggested that it was very low on oil, but I don't really remember noticing that it was loud prior to that. We took one long, high-speed tour out to a WWII re-enactment and I recall that I was thinking the rear end was humming much more than I remembered. It's always hard to quantify when a car is new to you and you don't have a sold baseline, but it just seemed noisier than I think Buick engineers would have wanted on a limousine. Not awful, but it was there. You know how you can hear things that regular non-car-people don't? It was like that. Fist thing I did was call my friend Doug Seybold who said they use 85W140 in everything they restore, so that's what I initially gravitated towards for a refill. All of the 85W140 is GL5, which might concern some folks about wear and tear on "yellow" metals like the brass in the synchros. So I did some more homework and found that Royal Purple 85W140 gear oil has none of the sulfurs that attack the yellow metals, so it should be 100% safe. Being a synthetic should also help, so I ordered a case (expensive--about $100 for six bottles). But then there was that discussion I linked to up above, and on the advice found in that thread, I instead went and got some GL4 140-weight gear oil from O'Rielly's Auto Parts ($18/gallon). They have it on the shelf, so it's not hard to find. Make sure you get the right stuff because they also have 85W next to it. So GL4 140W extreme pressure hypoid gear oil seems to be the smartest bet. I finally carved out enough time to spend a few hours on the car. We're in the middle of moving into a new shop, my kids are wrapping up the school year, business is busy, the lawn needs mowed, the house needs a bathroom remodel, etc. It all gets in the way. But we have two new lifts in the new shop, so I figured that I'd give them a stress test with the big Limited. Today I put it up in the air and got busy. Buick up in the air at the new 25,000 square foot Harwood Motors shop. We haven't moved in yet but a few cars from inventory have come over recently to free up space The first thing I did was pull the drain plug on the transmission and let it drain for a while. The stuff coming out seemed clean and in good order, so no worries there. That was the fresh stuff I put in last summer. I moved to the rear end and removed the bottom bolts first, then worked my way around the circle, leaving the bolts above the halfway point in place, just loose. Oil started to flow out of the holes in the bottom, which I expected. It was FULL of metal particles, giving it a weird metallic sheen. Uh oh... Someone had obviously been in the rear end not too long ago and sealed it up with RTV, which is OK--that's how I will put it back together. But it took a screwdriver and a hammer to gently pry the rear end off the housing. More fluid came out and I let it drain for a while as I refilled the transmission. That part went smoothly, although I was surprised by how much the transmission took--about 1/2 gallon, which was more than I recall from last time. Meh, whatever, as long as you fill it to where it is just weeping out the fill hole, you're OK. It's incredibly easy if you get one of those $10 pumps they sell that screws into the top of the oil bottle and a little clip holds it in the fill hole. Transmission very easy to drain and fill Buttoned up, I moved back to the rear end. I used some paper towels to gently push the remaining fluid out the bottom hole and get it all out. Yeah, a lot of swirling metal in there. I'm pretty nervous now. I also found a few brass shards in the rear end cover, but I have no idea where they could have come from--there's no brass in the rear end. They were big enough chunks to pick up with my fingers. Odd, but I wasn't as concerned about that since they seemed so anomalous and were stuck to the inside of the rear end cover, not sitting in the bottom of the housing. Move on. Rear end with cover removed and oil draining. Seems OK... Definitely a 4.20 (4.18) rear end; pinion gear teeth look OK First thing I did was hose it all down with brake cleaner and get a look at the gears. They SEEM OK, maybe some minor wear, but nothing terribly noticeable. They aren't wrecked. I also confirmed that this is the original rear end, with 4.20 (actually 4.18) gears inside, as noted by the 11-46 stamped into the pinion gear (46/11 = 4.18). I finished mopping it out with more paper towels to be sure I got all the old oil out. I took the rear end cover, which was gunked up with RTV silicone sealer, to my handy bench grinder with a wire wheel, and knocked it clean in about three minutes. We're moving into a new shop and I finally have the space and facilities to set up all my restoration tools and equipment, so jobs like this go MUCH faster. Teeth seem OK. Not perfect, but not destroyed. I think I'll be OK. What do you think? All cleaned up with brake cleaner. Seems good. While I was at it, I cleaned up the original bolts and lock washers, which were gunked up with more RTV. I didn't clean the heads since I didn't want to knock off the plating (if any). I note that the four top bolts did not have lock washers, but that seemed incongruous to me, so I found four and made sure each bolt had a lock washer on it. Rear end flange all clean Bolts and washers cleaned up and ready to reinstall I also had to clean off the housing itself, which was likewise smeared with goop. I put an old T-shirt over the gears and most of the opening so that the goop and any stray wires from the wire wheel attachment on my angle grinder would not fly into the housing. Again, three minutes later, sparkling clean mating surface! Odd to see how crappy the weld between the two halves of the axle housing is. No wonder they leak... Internals protected while I clean goop off the housing Flange all clean and ready to be sealed up again With all that done, all that was left was to reinstall the cover and fill it up. I bought some black RTV in a pressurized can with a nozzle, which is a lot easier to work with than a tube. Gaskets are available, but my 5.0 liter Mustang's service manual specifically says NOT to use a gasket and just use RTV sealant, so I figured if it would work there, it would work here. Besides, that's how it was before and the rear end on the Limited was not particularly leaky, so I figured it was OK. I put a nice bead all around the perimeter of the housing and encircled each bolt hole, then gently pressed the rear end cover into place. The RTV instructions say to just put the bolts in finger-tight, then let it cure for 24 hours, then torque them to spec. I put a dab of RTV on the bolt threads to help seal them (note that the holes go all the way through into the reservoir). Also note that the rear end cover has a handy notch below the bottom center bolt hole to indicate where the bottom is so it is installed correctly. The fill plug should be at about two o'clock just above the halfway mark. New RTV, curing, waiting to be torqued and filled. Note notch below bottom bolt to orient rear end cover correctly. Anyway, the 24-hour cure time slowed me down. I haven't put the oil in yet (it's about 18 hours later as I write this), so I'll go back to the shop later today, torque everything down, fill it up, and go for a test drive. I'll report back this evening or tomorrow! PS: Also found that the master cylinder is leaking. Ugh, I guess that's next...
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    I had to go up to Union Bridge MD to make some arrangements about getting some work done on my '57 Triumph so I decided to take the '40 out for a spin. It was truly a flawless 100 mile trip, everything worked well, engine stayed cool, still lots of power going up the hills even with my 3.6 rear. So for all of you working away on your cars thinking it'll never be done, as I did many times, take heart! You will get there! I finally made it and it took 5 years from when I bought it in 2012! And thanks to all on this forum who have made it possible, I salute you! Thanks, Dave
  16. 10 likes
    Asking AACA members about street rods is like asking a kennel club about cats---
  17. 10 likes
    I was pleased to put a few dozen miles on the 56 this weekend. But didn't do any car shows or cruise in's.
  18. 10 likes
    I drove my Buick to the local drive in tonight, the last one before she goes under the knife. No pictures of my Buick, but there was a 53 Skylark with a McCulloch Supercharger... The install looked really clean, some people were even commenting that it may have been installed like that, but I don't think so. Still, wouldn't mind this type of mod myself Also found out today I'm the only one in the valley with a 56 2DR HT Century.
  19. 9 likes
    Oh yeah, Factory Appearing Stock Tire Race (webpage here!) at US131 Motorsport Park, Martin, MI
  20. 9 likes
    How about a video of the car running? I think we'd all like to hear the roar of the engine to help you celebrate your accomplishment of getting this done!
  21. 9 likes
    Attended the Puget Sound Chapter's All Buick Open in Puyallup (just south of Seattle) on Saturday. Left bright and early on Saturday morning for the 330 mile round trip. A little over 100 cars showed up a cloudy day. Rain was not forecast, and most of the day was perfect car show weather, but rain showed up by the end of the show and followed me most of the way home. Most I've driven the Electra in the rain. Car performed well, handling the Interstate speeds with ease. A great show seeing and meeting a bunch of really great people! At the end, a few of us stuck around to stage a picture with the big cars, 1961 through 1971 represented (with a few years missing)
  22. 9 likes
    Sunday, June 18, 2017: Happy Father's Day! Painting the "recesses" in the chrome parts Here's how I did it........ Today I set up shop in the kitchen. Way too humid outside to do anything! I wanted to rebuild the windshield wiper "transmissions", but I have to paint the grooves in the chromed towers first. But, being those wipers are so prominent on the cowl of the car, I wanted to practice on a couple parts first before I attempted the wiper towers. So today I painted a few parts. Having never done this before, here goes! I chose the fender lamp chrome molding first. It had nice deep grooves so I figured it would be easier. I dipped the artist's brush in Rustoleum Flat Black. and made sure to "work" the paint into the depth of the grooves. It's really hard to photograph chrome parts. But there is black paint down the entire side. There IS NOT ANY paint on the front "ring" surface. Just a reflection. I wrapped my finger tightly in a thin cotton cloth. Then, by sliding my finger down the length of the part, while "rolling" my finger backward, the paint cleaned right off the "proud" surface, leaving the black in the detail. Here is the fender lamp center molding after wiping off the paint. I really like the result! So I tried the trunk handle next. Grooves are not as deep, but the surface is nice and flat so I figured it would wipe off easily. Again, worked the paint into the grooves. Looking sloppy, and believe me, I was hesitant to paint on my freshly chromed parts! As soon as the paint was worked into the grooves, I immediately wiped it off, again kind of "rolling" my finger backward while sliding down the part. And here we are! Not too bad for my first attempt! Then I did all eight door handles. They were much easier as the grooves are very deep and the part is thin enough to clean with one quick sweep! Another view. And then I had to stop to fire up the grill. Darn kids are always hungry! Happy Father's Day out there! Gary
  23. 9 likes
    I had a wonderful Fathers Day! Hope everyone else did also. The csr show is always well attended.
  24. 9 likes
    Hope sitting in and starting this qualifies. Today was our Chapters annual Charity fund raiser, which we call Cruise Into Summer. Turn-out was lower than last year although there was a count of 130 cars. Anyway, our sponsor dealer drove the '25 from the showroom to the site, and I had a chance to sit in it and crank her up. I must say, it felt like a million dollars to be able to do this!
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    Since I am retired and everyday is a weekend for me, I can claim a Hat Trick today. The GS on Thursday, The Electra on Saturday, and the 56 today! I was surprised to note that I had not driven the Electra since May 13th. Also I saw the fellow who has the wagon today. Said he does not hate me yet! They love the car! I know I certainly miss it...a lot!!!
  27. 9 likes
    Save everything! Make your children deal with it when you are gone!
  28. 9 likes
    Got the new top finished today and took it out for a short spin.
  29. 9 likes
    Well, the Buick is sold. The paint guy at a local restoration shop bought it. Looks like she's gonna get the rest of the work done she deserves.
  30. 8 likes
    Hi All, It has been a lovely sunny 62F autumn day here and a perfect opportunity for a trip out to catch up with some friends. Location is Lake Macquarie, on the New South Wales Central Coast (Australia) about 100 miles north of Sydney. My friend, the photographer, was adamant that I was to be in the photo...my apologies to you all, Cheers Paul
  31. 8 likes
    Parked on the waterfront in Windsor, Ontario, Canada looking across the Detroit River at the General Motors Headquarters in Detroit, Michigan.
  32. 8 likes
    Photos from a couple of years ago at Kalbarri, Western Australia. Watching the sun set at the beach.
  33. 8 likes
    I took the '73 SCO Yellow Stage 1 Sun Coupe to the New England Auto Museum show in Norwalk Ct. last Sunday . The car won the Favorite preservation award!
  34. 8 likes
    So that's how the designers at Buick figured out the relationship between the contour of the fenders and the hood!
  35. 8 likes
    Speaking just for myself Keith, I love your Electra and indeed the entire Electra Class. 15 mile drive to the local Wednesday night cruise. There were three Regal T's at our cruise. One was Maroon with a red interior, but naturally I missed that picture. Here are a few other Buicks that belong to Chapter members
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    Friday June 9, 2017: Re-vulcanized Running Boards Arrived! On January 15 I removed the running boards from the car. I sent them out to get the bottom blasted free of all that rust and barnacles that 80 years of use will bring. I was going to buy the rubber mat from Steele and cure it on myself, but the more I thought about it, the task of removing that old dried up, vulcanized rubber seemed almost impossible. So I decided to send them out to be professionally revulcanized: So on February 28 I boxed them up, actually using old outdoor furniture cushions over the ends of the boards to protect them on their journey to Canada. I used heavy duty boxes and "sleeved" them so the walls were doubly protected. Well, today UPS dropped off the restored / revulcanized boards and they look great! January 15, 2017: Removed off the car Here's a close-up of the condition of the rubber Another shot as it was removed. . All the hardware removed and the underside blasted clean, ready to boxed and shipped. The last time they will have their original rubber. I felt this job was a bit too much for me to tackle. Today, UPS dropped off a nicely built wooden shipping box. Acting like a kid in a candy shop, I couldn't wait to undo all the screws and open the treasure! The undersides are powder coated "mirror black" The up side..... smooth as a baby's bottom! The finished product! Very, very nice job. Here they are, ready to have the hardware re-installed. The detail is perfect! I sent all the mounting hardware to my local powder coater, and I got all new nuts and bolts for re-assembly. Job well done! Thanks to Kris at The Running Board Rubber Company, Mc Bride, Canada.
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    So the engine and heads checked out in the crack detect. Bores measured good. Just going to hone and reuse stock pistons. He checked the heads and they are flat and true,
  38. 8 likes
    Name calling and detracting remarks have been removed and edited and will not be further tolerated.
  39. 8 likes
    Speaking of drugs. I have a Dynaflow in my cellar. The meterman came down the outside steps while I was working. He exclaimed "Wow! Did you carry that thing down here?' I said "Naw, it was drugged." Bernie
  40. 8 likes
    I have had the top and top bows since I bought the truck about 15 years ago. With all of the other repairs, broken rod, radiator, clutch, broken axle, etc.. which are big money sucking repairs, I could not find the time and money at the same time to get it redone. The old, and it was an original top was so fragile and brittle that just touching it caused it to crumble. I had it stored in the attic until the stars & moon aligned which they did this year. I am so glad to have it done, finally.
  41. 8 likes
    Congrats to winners. We the members should be thrilled at the talent on the BOD. At the same time we should also be disappointed at the talent we didn't get as I know several of those who ran bring some unique work experience and other club mgmt experience that I feel the BOD and club would significantly benefit from. I know a couple folks have tried a couple times now and I'm sure they are discouraged, but hopefully they give it one more college try. Will be interested to see who the BOD chooses among themselves to be officers of the club.
  42. 8 likes
    Do I dare post a picture of my mom on this thread? Here's my Granddad's car, can't tell the model but it is a 1940 Buick. This is Mom posing; my Grandmother might have been showing off her daughters new coat or my Granddad was showing off the new tires on the car. Depends on which one of them was taking the photo.
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    Picked up the block and two heads. Numbers matched 56. We just stopped in at the first rest stop in Oregon. The block looks good, really clean and taken care of. Hoping to hone .006"! Probably will go back to .030" if I'm being realistic. Heads look good, too. Two burned exhaust valves but the seat looks good. Still have to pull the block in the car, but we're going to take the block to the old machinist and ask nicely for the $5000 first before we go to court. No signs. We'll get her running right and healthy.
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    Just want to give a shout out to my fellow veterans and thank you for all you did for yours and mine. I salute you!! Doug1414 50 Model 40D 2nd Owner
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    Put about 300 miles on my '63 just driving for no reason.......
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    I’m new here so this is my introduction. My name is Pete and I’m in north NJ. I bought my first Buick as a teenager, a 1937 Special 2-door for $60 in 1961. Not a lot of miles were added when I had it since I did a lousy job of replacing the universal joint gasket and the car leaked transmission oil rather badly. Several bolts in engine were also snapped. One thing I did do right as an inexperienced teenage mechanic and that was to replace the transmission mainshaft gear; I located a ’38 in a junkyard and bought that transmission for parts. The Buick was sold in 1970. Around 1968 I found a 1939 Roadmaster Formal Sedan, six wheels. It cost $300. The only problem with it was front wheel bearing with a shattered ball separator. In 1976 it was sold to a NYC limo service since I no longer had a garage for storage. Now that I’m a senior I’m reliving my youth with a 1937 Special 4-door in great shape- almost. Past owners had used modern gas that had alcohol and thus the gas tank filled with rust, making the car appear to run out of gas every five miles. Now the tank has been cut open, sealed to prevent further rust, and resoldered. The Buick has also been converted to 12 volts. I drive it almost daily around town. The pics are of my '37 in 1961, my "new" '37 Special ("New Tires"), and former '39 Roadmaster Formal Sedan
  47. 7 likes
    Drove to a local car show. To my surprise appeared a 61 LeSabre I have never seen before.
  48. 7 likes
    Both front hubs reassembled!
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    Much like the long winded Dealer ads on ebay with fancy page layouts, 80 % of which is talking of the history of that car company, who was the designer, and what color socks he wore when he sketched the design on a napkin at the local diner...and very little words on the car they have up for bids.