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  2. It has been an odd week. Between the time spent on the recent Model 67 and how unusually busy my business has been for the past couple of weeks, I have not had any time to work on the Buick until today. While I hate the delay, it is a good problem to have, since the increased business will help pay for the restoration. I have really been wanting to get back on the Buick project but I have decided that it would be better to pay an experienced metal worker to repair the rusted out sections on the door skins and the small rusty sections of the rocker panel. This should speed up these repairs. I am waiting for the metal worker to be able to get my project onto his schedule, but it should happen soon. I previously purchased a set of engine side panels on ebay. They are in much better condition than the originals. They had been painted a really odd light green color. The bright trim on the louver section had quite a bit of the light green paint overspray on them. This morning, I started doing some initial buffing on one of the louver panels. I forgot to take a "before" photo until I had done a bit of initial buffing on the panel. It soon became apparent that I needed to remove the lover panel from the engine side panel to effectively buff it. The louver panel is held into the engine side panel with steel split rivets. I started to grind them off, but decided that I did not want to take a chance of the small air grinder slipping and causing unnecessary damage. I figured out that I could use a small screwdriver to slide under one of the bent legs of the rivet and pry up one of the legs, then grab it with some small angle cutters to bend it upward almost straight. This would release enough tension to allow me to grab the other leg with the angle cutters and bend it up enough so that I could use a pair of needle nose pliers to bend the legs in enough to remove the rivets. I also removed and buffed the hood release handle. After removing the rivets, the louver panel slid out of the engine side panel so that I could easily buff the panels bright trim. I wanted to buff the thin chrome trim while still attached to the louver panel so that I did not take a chance of mangling the thin trim with the buffing wheel. I still need to decide if I want to carefully tape off the chrome trim and paint the louver panels or if I want to disassemble, paint, and reassemble the louver panels. The painting would be easier if they are disassembled but the disassembly and reassembly looks like it will not be much fun. I have seen a lot of stalled projects recently. They all seem to have the louvers totally disassembled. I have not seen a louver panel on a stalled project where the owner actually go to the point of reassembly of the louver panel. The initial buffing cleaned up the panel well. It looks as good or better in person than it does in the photos. I never seem to be able to take good photos of chrome, due to odd reflections in the chrome.
  3. Matt Harwood

    Meet photos from Denver

    That's some sky! Wish I was there.
  4. Nobody's angry and I know you don't want a lecture on the 6-12 change, but it appears that the changeover will create more headaches given the fact that the Fluid Drive uses a unique 6V solenoid and controls. You've "heard" about someone somewhere who might have gotten Fluid Drive to work on 12 volts, so you're asking us how to do it. I'll wager good money that nobody has a working solution for a 12-volt Fluid Drive system simply because all the primitive electrical controls are 6V. It's more than just changing the solenoid and hoping for the best. Someone might have gotten it to work half-assed with a step-down resistor, but not for long given that the solenoid needs a pretty good whack of juice to engage. Why make this so much harder than it needs to be? <mini lecture> Unless you're planning a monster stereo or some other electricity hog, 6 volts will usually work best, make the car easier to service for whomever buys it from you in the future, make parts easier to find, and you won't have to reinvent the wheel to make the Fluid Drive work. Best of all, it's already set up that way, so you don't have to change anything. Get a good battery, good grounds, big battery cables, and a proper regulator, and the system will work great and you won't have to figure out anything. </mini lecture>
  5. mercer09

    wrd- original model A vicki

    Thank you Gonz. Not at all what I am looking for but certainly appreciate the response. I am looking for an original car, not an older restoration.
  6. supercargirl

    1957 Corvette Fuelie

    Wow. That car is somethin' else. We are looking for something a little more modest:)
  7. mike6024

    Knock-off wheel removal

    Alfa Romeo 1969 and earlier, left lugs on left side. But supposedly "tapered" lug nuts do not need it because they do not "precess."
  8. hi all ok before you get mad and say not this again.i have a 51 chrysler windsor with fluid drive. i have read alot of post all across the net on switching 6v to 12v not to do it .keep it 6v.i have not read about anyone who has completed this all the way and how they got the fluid drive to work .i understand most of you say keep it 6v.i know someone has had to complete this .ok here we go.i want to here from those who have done it and what they did to get the fluid drive to work right,what they used to make it work? i have always wonder about this .i see so many post,but know real answers.plus i think this might help someone out just in case they would want to do this.so please bare with me on this thanks .
  9. countrytravler

    1957 Corvette Fuelie

    Sold for 450K https://www.mecum.com/lots/FL0117-269373/1957-chevrolet-corvette-big-brake-airbox/
  10. jscheib

    Meet photos from Denver

    Anybody have any close-ups of the '33-'34 what looks like a custom body? Thanks, in advance. Not sure I ever saw that anywhere. John
  11. m-mman

    A 1920 hot rod? Gow job?

    This is a picture taken of the damage from an earthquake in Inglewood, California, that occurred on June 21, 1920. Of interest to this august group might be the roadster in the lower right corner. Missing fenders and turtledeck, I perceive it as a hopped up car. Seems pretty early for 1920. There was a city scene discussed here recently and there was interest in the rarity of early hot rods that were captured in random images. I submit this for your enjoyment.
  12. Ted "Wildcat65" Nagel

    '64 401 Nailhead Questions

    I like the fuel pump idea, but also check out the rest of your fuel system...filter, tank, fuel lines. Ted
  13. wndsofchng06

    For Sale 1956 Special 2 dr hdtp

    Unfortunately yes, but glad you got it sold and wish you good luck!
  14. DonMicheletti

    1938 Special rear shocks

    Yes, the mount bracket comes off first. I think it would be impossible to get that "C" clip off with the assembly in the car. (I checked my spelling this time). A bit of information. I got my rubber grommets from STEELE Rubber. What was listed in their catalog turned out to be wrong. I sent a sample of my original grommets and they turned out to be the same as from some Caddilac. Photo is of those supplied and the originals. The original is not swoolen. My car definitely was original. STEELE fixed me up with ones that were perfect. Those are in the above photo. Here are some specs: Original: Od: 1.5” Id: .750” L: .8” Steele: p/n: 70-0541-33 (This is the wrong size) OD: 1.25” ID: .625” L: .625 The original shocks are rebuildable if all they need are new seals.
  15. Buffalowed Bill

    locomobiles wanted

    About five years ago we had an Antique Studebaker tour out and around, St Regis Montana. I was riding with a friend in his beautifully restored, 1922 Studebaker, Big Six touring car. That was at least until the afternoon tour, which was to travel a winding dirt, switchback road, up through a bison range. My friend evidently didn't feel up to driving the route and get his car mussed. I say evidently because the first indication of his change of plans was when I saw him in the back seat of another car, as we were preparing to leave. Sensing that I was going to be left behind, I ran the line of cars looking for a ride. The first, and maybe the only, ride I was able to find was a rather frousty looking 1925 jr8 touring. The car was an unrestored original touring, but with no top in site. Under other circumstances I might have been a little reluctant to make the daunting trip in a car that looked like that, but this was an emergency, and they seemed happy to have me join the rest of the four occupants. So I said what the h... and jumped in the backseat. First gear up and first gear down, to an altitude of 8-9K feet elevation. Going down I remained ready for a quick exit if it became necessary, but the car never missed a beat. A very enjoyable ride in an impressive car, glad to have had the opportunity.
  16. Today
  17. I've spent the last two hours searching for wheel cylinders for this pretty little 1940 Plymouth convertible and I'm not having much luck. I did find Ply33's useful website information, but it seems that most of the cross-referenced part numbers are now obsolete. There are some on Ebay or Kanter but I don't think those are really the right ones--it seems to me that this car uses one type for the front and unique cylinders for reach rear wheel. I'm not positive, but that seems to be what I'm reading. Anyway, I can't seem to find any that are under $90 or so. I really only need the rears, but I'd buy all four if they were priced like regular wheel cylinders. The car has a bit of a mushy pedal that we can't cure and my mechanic thinks it's the rear wheel cylinders that seem to be weeping just a little. Can anyone point me in the right direction or give me a cross-reference for a modern replacement? Heck, even just knowing the diameter would be extremely helpful. Any recommendations? Thank you!
  18. Tim Wolfe

    1930 Model 70

    Another 2 door model 70 Brougham showed up, it is in England!
  19. rowan782

    For Sale 1956 Special 2 dr hdtp

    SOLD (Craigslist - zero interest on this Buick site. Guess you all have Buicks already) !
  20. 1937hd45

    Are these both Ford “Model T”s?

    July 1914 is the earliest accessory self starter ad for a Ford that I've found. Bob
  21. Owen_Dyneto

    53-56 Caribbean

    Easy to distinguish a 5-main from a 9 main 327 or the 359, just count the main bearing oil gallery plugs down low on the manifold side of the engine, there will be either 5 or 9.
  22. 5894

    Early 50`s Buick Brake Preformance

    Tinindian, Thank you for taking the time to reply. I find this to be helpful. And thank you for the tip on how to use them correctly. Much appreciated! Happy Motoring! 5894
  23. avgwarhawk

    1973 Riviera Barn Find Car (Pole Barn)

    Any particular reason you need a PM in both threads you have started concerning rusty Buicks covered in dirt and droppings?
  24. bump- I could really use your help
  25. Bloo

    Knock-off wheel removal

    So does my '36 Pontiac.
  26. Bill Harmatuk

    Found Exploring.

    It's amazing what you find exploring. It does have a license plate on it. I'll be back to door knock. Bill H
  27. 60FlatTop

    Will the new wagon survive?

    I like that. "Our answer too" or "Going head to head against" is just lame advertising copy. But , then, advertising agents are young. I gotta wonder about those Subaru owners. I saw an ad on TV where a totaled Subaru saved either the driver or his whole family. He was visiting the wrecked car, obviously now the property of the insurance company. And stuck his hand in and stole the shift knob, right there on TV! Personally I would be a little leery of petty thievery.
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