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  2. can anyone ID the motor

    thx, i will check this again
  3. Best Oil & Lubricants for 1920's Cars

    My understanding is that detergents DO remove deposits from an engine but slowly. The removed deposits are kept in suspension by dispersant additives. See Corvair Oil Article, page 18, Bottom Line Recommendation #10: From Bob is the Oil Guy, Bob explains the two functions of detergents: First, they lift any deposits from the surfaces from the surfaces of the engine to which they adhere to and then chemically combine to form a barrier film, which keeps the deposits from coming out of suspension and coagulating. Detergents form two kinds of barrier films. On small particles, (generally less than 0.02 microns in size), detergents form an absorbed film which slows down coagulation of the particles. On much larger particles, (ranging from 0.5 to 1.5 microns in size), detergents cause the particle surfaces to acquire an electrical charge of the same sign so they can repel each other. The polar metallic heads of detergents have a great affinity for each other. These molecules attract each other like magnets and form clusters called "micelles". The deposit precursors being oil-insoluble have a greater affinity for the detergent molecule than the oil molecules. They are attracted to the detergent micelles (much like iron fillings are drawn to a magnet) and trapped within them. Thus, they are kept in solution in the engine oil and cannot settle out to form deposits in the engine. The number of particles that can be contained in a micelle is limited. When a number of particles exceed the capacity of the type of detergent chemistry being used deposits can form. Therefore it is necessary that the engine oil be drained before this happens if engine cleanliness is to be maintained. Secondly, detergents neutralize any acids formed by the combustion of the fuel by chemically reacting with the acids in order to form harmless neutralized chemicals. Dispersants are polar additives that are used to disperse sludge and soot particles for the purpose of preventing agglomeration, settling and deposits. Dispersants envelops particles and keep them finely divided. Dispersants are polymeric and ashless compounds. These compounds are based on long chain hydrocarbons, which are acidified and then neutralized with a compound containing basic nitrogen. See Engine Sludge.
  4. GIRLS ON BUICKS IV

    Secret way to keep the side of my car polished.
  5. Move over Tesla this was around 100 years ago

    And to this day batteries are about the same.
  6. can anyone ID the motor

    Agree with Trimacar. This is a very narrow angle (12+- degree?) V8. The cylinder witness marks on the cylinder head indicate that. Also the valves of adjoining cylinders overlap slightly. It is a small bore engine. The carburetor is unusual and has a patent date of 1926 on it and the distributor was used on the Lycoming engine in the 1926 Auburn 8-88 (and probably other cars using Lycoming engines).
  7. Inspired by Keiser

    VL 2, I agree the Hispano is a beautiful machine, but if that is your favorite I encourage you to look at what Duesenberg made. My personal opinion is no one has ever topped them in design and beauty.
  8. #Carshow EpoquAuto Lyon 2017 Lyon - France November 11, 2017 By CHTI Traction http://capripowermeetingpics.weebly.com/epoqauto-lyon-11-nov.html
  9. AACA Badge for Model T

    I have had it both ways, sellers remorse and buyers remorse. If it was a good buy or a bad buy I guess that is how we learn. Buying a vehicle with a bill of sale only is just asking for trouble. I know from a bad experience. I recently sold a vehicle that I had for 35 years, and I made sure that the new owner had copies of every receipt, and notes covering every piece of research relating to the car. The new owner (in his 20's) and his dad were as excited as I was when I first purchased the auto many years ago. Pass the torch in a rewarding way!
  10. 1972 Old 98 75th Anniversary Tiffany

    Here are some of my 98s.
  11. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    Thanks Paul. I will look at it again on the weekend. I think what happened was because I established TDC from a diagram in my owners' manual by the setup of the timing chain and marks on it, I wrongfully assumed that this is where the spark should be firing. But that is the exhaust stroke. It's the other TDC or compression stroke that is where it fires. I also assembled the flywheel back onto the motor at exhaust TDC. I assume this is why the "Spark Full Advance" hash mark is off as well. I'm actually quite relieved because I thought it might be carb problems but all the guys including Carb King were right when they said it's more likely a timing issue. He said that carb problems rarely account for a car not starting unless they are serious. I should be able to establish compression TDC by feeling the air rushing out and then re-orient the cables accordingly. With a Graham Paige, there is an off-center joint on the distributor shaft that prevents it from being incorrectly assembled. But that's doesn't mean your rotor is pointed at the right point or cable at the right moment. You have to orient them correctly including the right order. Sigh. This project certainly has it's moments of extreme frustration but I geuss that'll make it all the better when it's going... Thanks again.
  12. 1972 Old 98 75th Anniversary Tiffany

    This is correct about the Tiffany name. Olds felt the name just added a little more zip. I believe after the 73 Model, Oldsmobile no longer used the Tiffany name in 98 ads. By the way, the new for 72 98 Regency was the very first car to use the plush "Loose Pillow Look" interior. Something that most other luxury cars would soon follow. Oldsmobile's slogan, "Always a step ahead" was usually right. I like all cars but Oldsmobile was always my favorite.
  13. Avanti R2, 1963, refresh

    Tuesday, November 21st. Spent the day working on the modern cars getting them ready for winter service. Changed the oil and tires/rims on the Passat W8. But also spent a few minutes putting the HPOF award on the 1928 Buick. Sure happy to see that the old girl receive the award. I have had the car 37 years and have managed to keep her almost original and more importantly, running and driving.
  14. Front bumper 63-64

    One suggestion that might be helpful is to get all the bolts started before you tighten any up....otherwise some of them won't line up. Also, do it with two helpers so you don't scratch the paint on the fenders. Let them hold the bumper up to the car on each end while you get the bolts started.
  15. Looks like I got taken by Original Parts Group........I think their entire catalog has parts made by other people where they double the other people's price and put it in their catalog. I'm going to put all my OPGI catalogs in the dumpster where they belong.
  16. 1930 studebaker President Reduced 38500 Paint upgrades

    Boy that is a nice looking Studebaker. I have the same year and model only mine is a mess. My car has side mounts. These are now full CCCA cars correct?
  17. Wagon Tailgate

    Awaiting delivery of 1958 Custom Safari, haven't laid eyes on her yet. Any clues on what's going on with the bottom, full length chrome strip on the tailgate? Looks like a number of attaching clips?
  18. I called and left you a message yesterday. Thanks.
  19. 1931 four door sport sedan project

    Thought y'all would like a little update. Its not a huge step but it paves the way to getting motor/trans seated and rear end mounted. I have an S10 limited slip disc brake 10bolt rearend that is within 1-2 inches of stock width. The engine is a rebuilt 350 that we got from a friend that sold his project car. It came with a turbo 350 transmission that had also been built for this engine. Our next step will be to find a steering setup that we like.
  20. Car cleaning tips

    Since the forum was pretty slow and some of you will be traveling soon, here are some car cleaning tips that I have not seen. http://thekrazycouponlady.com/tips/travel/16-seriously-clever-tricks-to-deep-clean-your-car Found this on the Pinterest site.......if you have not been there, lots of interesting ideas for almost anything. Safe travels..........
  21. 6 Volt Booster Starter Necessary?

    You can work backwards to check if the flywheel is correctly positioned. What only matters for ignition timing is the distributor's relationship to the pistons & valves. If the cam timing is correct then you need to check if the distributor, and/or, firing order of the spark plug wires are correct. After that see if the rotor is pointing at the number one spark plug wire when the number one cylinder is on TDC. Then you can check to see if the flywheel marks are where they should be. If you can see the movement of the number one cylinder intake valve, watch it as the engine is turned over by hand. Might be easier with the plugs out. Or put your finger over the number one cylinder spark plug hole and feel for the pressure build up of the compression stroke. As soon as it stops making pressure, stop turning the crank and see if the rotor is pointing to number one plug wire. On any four stroke engine, half a turn of the crankshaft after the intake closes is TDC at the end of the compression stroke. The distributor rotor should be pointing at the number one cylinder spark plug wire's contact inside the distributor cap and the points are just opening and thus causing a spark. That should be close enough timing to get it running. Then you can fine tune it from there after it's running and warmed up. If your certain the flywheel is in the wrong position, and you don't want to remove it, you can make new timing marks if you can get access to the piston through the spark plug hole. The way to establish true TDC on number one cylinder is to use a piston stop. Some are a metal bar, bolted across the block, with a bolt that extends down to touch the top of the piston. Some can be used with the head on by using an old spark plug with the insulator knocked out and a large bolt threaded in it's place. Basically you want a way of stopping the piston most of the way up it's travel, but before it reaches the top. The stop is inserted. Then very carefully by hand you turn the crank shaft until the piston top meets the stop. Don't turn the crank fast or with a lot of force or it'll put stress on the connecting rod when it meets the stop. When the piston is up against the stop, make a timing mark with a Sharpie pen on masking tape on the flywheel. Then rotate the crankshaft backwards until the piston meets the stop again. Make another mark. Exactly half way between those two marks is the true TDC of that cylinder. Now you can mark that TDC permanently. Then you can measure off the timing advance mark if you know the number of degrees advance, then divide the diameter of the flywheel by 360 degrees and make another mark at the distance in the flywheel that gives you that advance. Then you can use a timing light whenever you need to check advance. Paul
  22. Front bumper 63-64

    Rodney, They are interchangeable, watch for rusty bolts that could snap off. Otherwise it is pretty straight forward procedure.
  23. 1943-54 Chrysler Windsor 6

    I will have the above mentioned 265 home, thanks to affordable Fastenal shipping, in about a week. The first thing I need to address is the bell-housing/flywheel. I am guessing that this IND 265 has a standard SAE #1 bell-housing. What are the thoughts, easier to build and adapter plate and simply use what I have or would I be better off finding a donor from a military truck of DeSoto (bell-housing and flywheel). This IND 265 certainly is a 12 volt so I would need compatible parts. Help, hints and referrals to potential parts is appreciated. Rusty you suggest a supercharger for giggles, how is the Paxton style driven? belt? Al
  24. can anyone ID the motor

    If the cylinders are in line, why are the cylinder witness marks on the head staggered? Looks like Trimacar is right to me.
  25. 1928 Buick Master removal of starting crankshaft cap

    Maybe a LITTLE bit of heat might help.
  26. '38 Special gas mileage

    All of the Buicks that I have driven prior to about 1980 got fuel economy in the 10-12 mpg range. Even the 1963 Special wagon that I owned. I think the best that I ever got was about 14 and that was driving it very gingerly.
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