[Malcolm_M]

Last fall when gas hit $4 a gallon I did the responsible thing and bought a new full sized truck and a 18' trailer. I'm going to put this rig to use to pull my Buick to CO for the BCA meet but have not really pulled much before other than a small fishing boat so I've got some questions/concerns. The trailer is a wood deck, tandem axle with electric brakes on both axles and I have a brake controller on the truck. Its a frame hitch, Class IV and the truck although a 1500 has the tow package. Do I need sway control bars on the trailer? The truck has that fancy electronic system that is supposed to help keep the tail from wagging the dog but the Buick on the trailer will be 6250 lb. Do folks run weight distribution hitches? I've got a Sherline tonque scale coming in the mail and my thought was to load the Buick on the trailer and then weigh the tongue with this and just adjust the car back or forth on the trailer to acheive my 10% tongue weight. Any other tips, hints or suggestions? The truck pulled the empty trailer 2000lbs just fine and I'm not one that expects to still be pulling a Buick and drive 85 mph so it will be a nice 60 all the way there.

[imported_Bob Hill]

I have never used weight distribution hitches or swap bars on an open trailer; however, I always use them on an enclosed one. If you load your trailer properly you shoudln't need them .

[Tom]

Malcolm,

I am by no means an expert on towing, but I tow our '59 and '63 Buicks on an open trailer with a 2006 Chev 2500 HD 3/4 ton truck and I have to use a weight distribution hitch so I would highly recommend using one on a 1/2 ton truck. If nothing else, it will give you peace of mind and the extra margin of safety is well worth the additional expense. I do not use a sway control and have not had a problem. I have been told they are more of a necessity on enclosed trailers due to the large flat surface area.

[JZRIV]

As long as your trailer is properly sized for the load and you adjust the tongue weight, you do not need a weight distributing hitch for a 6250lb load.

It sounds like you invested in a nice setup. Make SURE you have a spare wheel/tire for the trailer. Usually thats optional when you buy a trailer. Even new trailer tires have been known to fail.

Common sense stuff that goes without saying but I'll say it anyway.
Make sure you have the correct drop on your ball hitch so the trailer is level when loaded.
Test the emergency breakaway braking system if the trailer is so equipped.
Invest in heavy duty, high quality ratchet tie downs and axle straps. I have a tendency to overkill in this area. Doesn't take much to keep the car on the trailer under normal driving but if you are forced into an emergency maneuver situation, you want to feel warm and fuzzy the car is staying put. Check the tie-downs for loosness after driving the first 50 miles and/or after a hard braking event.

Of course even the best tow vehicle and equipment is no substitue for sensible driving habits.

Good Luck and enjoy what is certain to be a great meet.

[Mark Shaw]

You already got some good info from other forum members, but I will add my 2 cents.....

I tow both my open and closed trailers with a 1/2 ton Z71 Silverado with the tow package. The maximum tow rating is 8,200 lbs. Verify that you do not exceed the rating on the tag in your truck.

When you connect the safety chains, make sure you cross them to catch the tongue if it detaches from the hitch.

Although you don't really need a hitch with draw bars, this type of hitch will add stability to your rig and distribute the load more evenly on all four wheels of the tow vehicle. This also improves breaking for emergency stops.

Finally, don't leave home without a lug wrenches that fit both the truck and trailer lugs. And carry a bottle jack and a 2 X 6 board to jack up the trailer. Your truck jack may not work on the trailer and bottle jacks tend to bury themselves in the soft shoulder of the road.

[DizzyDale]

I agree with everything Mark mentioned just wanted to add the plastic ramp someone makes to aid in the removal of a flat tire from a trailer with dual axles.Sure coulda used it that day in the rain on Rt.79 outside of Pittsburgh with the 39 Zephyr coupe in the 24' enclosed trailer and my GOOD 5 ton floor jack that wasn't even thinkin about pickin the left side up.If your lucky you will never need it but the time you do NOTHIN works better.diz

[Malcolm_M]

The trailer was ordered with a spare on the trailer. I've been looking at these tracks that you can mount to the wood deck that then allow you to adjust the tie down positions to varying places since I have 5 cars. Are the the axles the best place to tie down?

[imported_Bob Hill]

I use axle straps around my axles and then ratchet tie downs connected to them and to my tie down points.

Be sure you don't crush any brake lines when you go around the axles, etc.

BOB

[msmazcol]

If you install a track set up to the floor of your trailer make sure the track and all the attachments are load rated heavy enough. E track as its called is a great thing but was also used to hold cargo upright in semi trailers. The load rating and also insuring good mounting to your floor are important. Into steel cross members is best.
We also use axle straps and ratchets. Cross your straps in an X pattern side to side to insure no sideways movement. Always recheck load straps as they all stretch a bit.

[JZRIV]

Originally Posted By: Malcolm_M

Are the the axles the best place to tie down?

Generally speaking yes the axles are best in my experience. Tie downs to the frame or suspended part of a car can cause the strap to come undone due to relaxing of the strap from suspension bounce as the trailer goes over dips and bumps in the road. Tying to the frame can be done safely but typically its better if a more elaborate ratcheting chain system is used such as what you see on semi car haulers, the chains must be cinched down really tight so the suspension is not able compress any further when hitting a dip or bump in the road. You can avoid all that worry by going to the axles.