[unimogjohn]

Here are a few more pics of the Avanti under restoration. This is how it looks today.

[Curti]

The Avanti gas tank is higher than the fuel pump so a diaphragm break in the fuel pump will allow gas to seep into the enging. Keeping fuel lines in good shape is very important as the tank will drain itself dry through a crack or loose fitting.

I never suspected the fuel pump having a broken diaphram. I thought there was some kind of defective check valve or something. The car has never leaked gas or suffered from a lack of performance. live and learn. Where is a good place to get a FP kit.

[unimogjohn]

Curt, Studebaker Intl has the kits for $60. Page 160 of their catalog. Part number 1558925. They also list a fuel pump for $160, Page 160 of their catalog, part number 1557015 for the R2, and $156.50, part number 1557213 for the R1. Studebaker Auto Parts @ Studebaker International

[unimogjohn]

It is Friday, November 6th.

A cold, but productive day. I do not like working in the cold especially when it is in the low 40s, but it is suppose to be back in the 60s for the next couple of days.

I pressure washed again, still need to do it at least one more time as I continue to find big gobs of grease and dirt that I did not get or see previously. Really starting to sparkle.

I did take off the power steering and alternator belts and replaced them. The power steering pump does have significant play in it, but is not leaking and seems to be OK. I know I have some part leaking as I can see the little puddle of cherry juice on the ground. Just another thing to work on at some point.

I also took a look at the bad patches of paint on the back deck and top of the car. I took some heavy duty rubbing compound and my polisher, and decided to see if I could get some of it off. It looks like the previous owner had something over the car that actually ate into the paint. The pics below will show what it looked like, and another couple that show what it looked like after a couple of hours of polishing away. It did not completely come out, but with another hour or so, it just may.

Also took a video of the car running with its new tail pipes. A bit of smoke, but was just after start up and it was cold. The car is running a bit rich.

YouTube - 1963 Studebaker Avanti running with its new exhaust system

Tomorrow I do plan to take off the supercharger idler pulley, just ran out of time today. Also will make the first attempt at removing the rear drums. As a note, I still have a firm brake pedal so the bleeding was successful and there are no leaks in the system.

[Curti]

Curt, Studebaker Intl has the kits for $60. Page 160 of their catalog. Part number 1558925. They also list a fuel pump for $160, Page 160 of their catalog, part number 1557015 for the R2, and $156.50, part number 1557213 for the R1. Studebaker Auto Parts @ Studebaker International

Thanks John, I'll buy my wife the kit for Christmas. Yours truly will be installing it! I looked in the caralog for the cool sediment bowl but didn't see one. Where would I find one of those with the return line?

I checked out your YouTube video , You should have given it a little juice when the mic was down by the pipes.

[unimogjohn]

Curt, I do not know if the sediment bowl is correct for the my Avanti. In my original workshop manual, tune up section, page five; it specifically talks about replacing the in-line fuel filter (not the glass bowl filter). In the engine section, page 3, figure 2, it has a picture of the R2 engine and it clearly shows the metal in line filter cannister.

I guess it is up to you to decide what is correct for your car. Maybe the R1 has the glass filter. I am going to go with the factory picture and use the cannister when I am satisfied that my fuel system is clean.

[unimogjohn]

It is Saturday, Nov. 7th.

Crack, it made me jump! Boy, that is quite a jolt when the rear drums give up. Got both drums off. Dirty, but not too bad. Cylinders do not look like they are leaking at least through the dust boots. They are going to be redone/replaced. The shoes are at the end of their life, no problem, was going to replace them too. The drums look very good, no scoring or lip on the end. Will measure them to see if they are still serviceable.

Also took off the idler pulley system. The little plastic bushing need to be replaced, one was actually worn through. The bottom one had some rust as well.

That is about it for today. Oh, I did get an email that the brake line kit had shipped and would be here on Monday/Tuesday.

[unimogjohn]

It is Sunday, Nov. 8th; and a real nice day, in the 70s.

Worked on the front brakes most of the day. Planned to take the calipers, pads, etc off for an inspection and possible re-use. Well, the calipers were frozen, pads broken off of their backing plates, hoses and pipes rusted, etc. The two of the calipers are frozen and will not retract.

So after careful thought and looking at my wallet, I have decided to go with the Jim Turner/Turner Engineering disc brake conversion in the front, and keep my drum brakes in the rear. Hopefully I can sell some of my used stuff on ebay to re-coup some of the costs.

Have ordered everything to complete the brake job now so just have to wait for parts to show up. Also decided to order the two transmission to radiator hoses that go to the transmission. I also ordered new plastic bushing for the idler arm system.

Hopefully, this is the last of the major purchases to get the old girl back on the road. I am way over budget right now, but I will have a good reliable and safe car to drive.

Here are pics of the calipers from the left side, the right side was just as bad.

[ErnieR]

Those are some foul looking calipers! You will be very happy with the Turner brake Conversion.

Dave Thiebault has stainless sleeved rear wheel cylinders.

ErnieR

[Gary Hearn]

FYI, it is Jim Turner who sells the disc brake conversions.