1968 Lincoln Limo - Page 3

imported_Barry Wolk · November 19th, 2007

I've used that stuff before. It damn near killed me with it's fumes. It even gets kind of nasty in there with the standard stuff and the space it's in, even though it's 19,000 cubic feet. Besides, I'm in no hurry.

West Peterson · November 19th, 2007

Oh yeah, it's nasty. It makes my eyes water just thinking about it. I use it outdoors and it still makes my eyes water. Though this time of year it wouldn't work outside very well. Not where you or I'm located.

imported_Barry Wolk · November 21st, 2007

Actually West, I kind of enjoy the slower pace of using a less potent stripper. It's like cutting the grass. It's totally mindless, yet totally satisfying.

11-21-2007 More stripping.

I spent about an hour with my body hammer and dolly and straighten out the dents in the rear door. Now they'll just require a thin layer of body filler over the damaged areas.

Unfortunately, the center door had a shabby home-made door skin that didn't allow for good body filler adhesion. It cracked and created this rust mess. I'm looking for two new doors or NOS door skins. I know, good luck.

Stripping the trunk lid was no small task. This pile of paint scrapings was just the top layer of paint. It had so much paint on it that the body lines were blurred.

I don't know if you can see the blur in this picture, but you sure can, in person. I'm still amazed at the quality of the original stampings. The pieces are almost sculptural.

The lower edge of the trunk lid is a very likely rust problem. There is no sign of rust on this trunk lid. Another super clean part.

jaxops · November 22nd, 2007

Barry,

I enjoyed your grass mowing to paint-stripping metaphor.

I used Original Auto Interiors in Michigan Original Auto Interiors . They could make any interior material. I really liked the Lincoln velour/crushed velvet seats. They were comfortable.

imported_Barry Wolk · November 24th, 2007

Thanks, that may be just what I'm looking for.

11-24-2007 No need for door skins. I figured out why both center doors have been re-skinned.

If you look at the passenger side middle door you can see that it's top is flat. This door had to be altered to be this way because as a front door on the rear part of the splice it no longer rose to meet the windshield.

I have a friend that has offered to teach me lead work. This door might be the perfect teaching tool.

I found a sprayable paint stripper at Home Depot that works the best of any I've used.

The whole rear end of the car is stripped of paint. Aside from the door ding on the passenger rear door I've found no sheet metal damage and about the same amount of rust on both sides.

The vast majority of rust under the vinyl top was surface rust. I ground the rust spots to slightly below the original surface. The big holes will be brazed shut and all the rust spots will be covered in POR-15. The excess paint will be sanded away and the area covered with a thin layer of body filler.

Roger Walling · November 25th, 2007

Barry, its nice to see your garage a mess (like mine). After all of your trailer pictures, I was afraid that you didn’t know how a real garage looked!

imported_Barry Wolk · November 25th, 2007

The garage was a total mess during the whole trailer project. It was just so big you couldn't see the mess.

Cleanliness in not my long suit. My one year stint in military school was the only time in my life that I didn't have someone to clean up after me.

imported_Barry Wolk · November 25th, 2007

11-25-2007 Might as well go all the way.

If anyone is going to rebuild one of these there is a simple production mistake that can be corrected. Wherever there was a seam sealant was used over bare metal it failed. Wherever it was applied over paint there was no failure. I believe that the edge of the sealant cracked the paint allowing, oxygen and moisture to cause rust under the caulk. I would advise priming at least before caulking.