1929 Hupmobile project - Page 5

HarryJ · July 8th, 2008

Dean...I am really enjoying looking over your shoulder as you restore your Hup. This is quite an education I am getting! The clutch modification is a great solution to your problem! By the way, I am a believer in vacuum tanks; I don't think you would get vapor lock using one of these units. If the fuel boils in the line the vapor will go up the line to the tank and to atmosphere; and the column of fuel will push gas to the carb. A lot of people have converted there cars to electric pumps. Also, I will mention modern replacement wires are just plastic covered wires that have been run through a braiding machine to cover them with cotton braid in the correct color patterns. Keep the posts coming ...your posts are to the true spirit of the "current restorations" forum.

1929Chrysler · July 8th, 2008

I agree with Harry on the vacumm canister. I don't think you would get vapor lock either. Just go back and look at my posts where I thought I had vapor lock problems. My fuel lines run right next to the exhaust manifold and because of my current radiator problem my car runs extremely hot. Turns out it wasn't vaporlock and the old canister runs just like she was designed to do!

But like you said... It's your car. Do what you want.

Dan

1940_Buick · July 9th, 2008

Just a comment on vaccum canisters. There are times when folks convert to electric fuel pumps, and then end up with carb trouble because the original carbs aren't designed to hold back pressure from a pump, just gravity.
I've converted never had trouble with my vaccum canister, and they're easy to rebuild and repair.

huptoy · July 9th, 2008

I use an electric fuel pump on my 6 cyl Hupmobile and, for looks, direct the gas through the vacuum pump shell. Use a electric pump that is variable or can be reduced to 1 to 3 pounds. Also a flow reducer will work. Too much flow pressure will cause problems in the Carb.

We had a member who restored a 1928 Model M 8 cyl Hupmobile over 30 years ago and used the vacuum fuel pump. Over the years, he had problems with the pump sporadically not working. He would drain gas from the gas tank and prime the vacuum can and usually it would start working. By tearing it down and reassembling the vacuum pump it would usually fix the problem. However, several times he had to trailer the car home. Three summers ago, his wife said no more being stranded on the road and he installed an electric fuel pump and the problem stopped. He left the vacuum tank hooked up to look like it was working. Just remove the insides and block the overflow tube. Additionally, he restored a 1928 Model A Roadster 18 years ago and had the same problem with the same fix.

Dean_H. · July 10th, 2008

Thanks for the comments everyone. I always value others advise. I think I'll leave the electric pump, since it's already done. I'm not worried about the carburetor leaking because my original is all cracked up (pot metal). I'm going to replace it with a more modern unit. My vacuum canister is mint condition. I intend to mount and plumb it, but not connect it into the fuel system. I'll put preservation oil in it, so it'll be ready to use if I change my mind. Also, I don't trust electric pumps, I've seen several quit working. Having the vacuum system ready to connect up will give me peace of mind.

I've been swamped with other work lately and haven't been able to do a lot on the Hupmobile. I broke away for a couple hours last night and installed the flywheel, clutch and transmission.

Dean_H. · July 10th, 2008

Extra points to anyone who can find the transmission repair weld. [img]<>/smile.gif[/img]

Dean_H. · July 12th, 2008

I managed to get the driveline in yesterday. The original drive line was bent and one U joint was worn out. I acquired another drive line and painted it, but needed to fix the U joint.

In this first picture you can see the worn out pin. A Cummins head bolt was the toughest material I could find around the shop. I machined it to size and cut off the ends.

The fit was a little tight, I had to use a press.

Here it is after installation, The chassis is starting to look complete. I'm close to being ready for the body, but I want to do some body work on it first.

Dean_H. · July 27th, 2008

It's been a while since I last posted progress. Truth is, lately, I've had a busy schedule and haven't done a lot on my project. I do tinker with it whenever I can and managed to get a few small items done.

I made an adapter to hold a modern thermostat. I couldn't readily locate an original, got this 160 deg. thermostat at the local auto parts store.

The threads ended up being left hand on the brass retainer nut. I'm certainly not a machine pro [img]<>/wink.gif[/img] and had the lathe feed in reverse when I made the threads. Since I might be the next guy to change the thermostat, I stamped "left hand threads" on it.

Cleaning up the distributor, it's in 'like new' condition.

I was surprised to see this auto advance in a distributor that also has a mechanical advance lever.

I tried to run solvent through the oil filter to clean it, and use it as is. After hours of flushing and still seeing sludge, I decided to cut it open.

I like the original look of this oil filter. My plan is to a conceal a modern screw-on filter inside the canister. I brazed on an adapter to hold the new filter.

Here is the bottom of my adapter, where the modern filter screws onto. The original by-pass, on top of the canister, will still function. This is far as I've gone, I still need to work out the details on this

HarryJ · July 27th, 2008

Dean, I was wondering what the guts of these early filters looked like. If you don't mind keep us posted in this restoration/re-engineer of the oil filter. By the way, the Southern Calif. Region CCCA reproduces the decal that goes on the filter.

Dean_H. · July 28th, 2008

Thanks for the decal tip Harry, I'll get one of those. The original filter basically consist of a large spring wrapped with a fabric, like cheesecloth.

I fiddled around with the oil filter yesterday and pretty much have it finished. First, I riveted a piece of aluminum sheet metal around the top section.

Here it is with the new filter installed.

To change the filter I'll need to disconnect the lines and slide it out. Although it doesn't look exactly original, I'm satisfied.