[Dean_H.]

Thanks for the tip Don, I ordered a head gasket from Olsens today. And thanks for the comments Debbie and Jim. Sorry to hear your car needs body work, I think that's the most difficult part of a restoration. Hope you get it going soon.

I was able to get some work done on my motor today. I'm fortunate with this project because of the great condition it is in. The valves and cylinders were in decent shape but I dressed them up a bit.

Here I'm removing the very small ridge.


In this pic I'm working on grinding the valve seats.


In this last picture I have the valve grinder running. It didn't take much to get the valves looking real good.

[Dean_H.]

My 'new' pistons arrived yesterday. I really like getting packages [img]<>/smile.gif[/img] and aggressively opened this one in the kitchen, spilling a few of those packing peanuts. The wifey didn't waste time ushering me out to the barn. [img]<>/smirk.gif[/img]


Back at the shop, I matched up the pistons. My number 5 and 6 pistons over heated because the back of the block (water chamber) was full of rust debris. The new pistons are .100 oversize. They told me to just machine them down to size needed.


I painted the block inside and out with epoxy primer.



I really want an all stock engine (and car) but... the ports were rougher than a corn cob. I smoothed them out with a dremel tool. The inside of the crankcase was also very rough. It had what appeared to be casting sand stuck to the cast iron. I cleaned that off before the primer was applied.

[HarryJ]

Dean, first let me say I am impressed with your abilities in restoring your car; I wish I had similiar skills. I noted on one of your earlier pictures an early original oil filter; do you plan to rebuild it? Also, thanks for the tip on using the Dremel tool to clean up the valve ports. I have never seen the inside of a crank case painted before, aren't you concerned some of the paint might start to come off in thye future?

[Dean_H.]

Thanks Harry, I had not put much thought into the oil filter. I certainly don't want a modern looking filter, so I'll have to clean or retrofit this one, if I can't find NOS. I'm not concerned at all about the crankcase paint coming off. I did a very thorough job on preparing the surface. I work in construction. Part of my time is spent overhauling or repairing my equipment. I've notice newer engines (1990+) are painted inside the crankcase. The paint always looks good when you disassemble one. Also the epoxy primer I used is very tough, even carb cleaner doesn't effect it.

I spend a lot of time on small things such as this 2.75 X 2.5 inch cover. This little cover from the front of the block was almost rusted through.



I filled the thin areas with braze


Then machined it flat


and finished.

[Dean_H.]

Progress has been a bit slow the last few days. My first attempt at machining the oversize pistons went down in flames. The lathe chuck deformed the piston a few thousands, it sprung back after I took it out, leaving it slightly triangle shape. I had to machine an arbor to hold the piston, took some time but worked good and I resized the two pistons I needed.

In this first pic, this piston had to be tossed out after deforming. My chuck is too large to hold the piston. I used a small chuck to hold the piston and held the whole mess in the big chuck. Thought I had out-smarted myself [img]<>/smile.gif[/img] ...oh well.



This set up did the trick, sorry about the poor focus. The piston fits snugly on the holder, a 1/4 inch stud catches a hole inside the piston and stops it from slipping.


Also surfaced the head.

[1929Chrysler]

Dean,Keep those pictures and explanations of what your doing coming! What kind of time frame are you looking at getting it all back together?

Dan

[Dean_H.]

Dan,
I don't have a time frame in mind for completion other than it would be nice to get the body back on the frame before our rainy season starts in November (body is outside). If I stay at the pace I'm going that won't be a problem but if a job comes up, the Hupp takes the back burner.

Today I worked on small parts. Cleaning and painting is an effort, it would be easier to just buy new bolts but I like the look of originals.


Polished the camshaft with fine emery cloth. There was light rust in a few spots, it cleaned up real nice.

[huptoy]

I replaced my valves 6,500 miles ago with no problems.

If you want to replace the valves with hardened ones, start with the exhaust valve from a 352 Ford. Shorten the stem and renotch it to match the original. The stem is 5 thousand's too large, drill out the block 5 thousands to remove any slop in the block. I was told with the lower compression and RPM, you will not have any problem with unleaded gas for 20 to 30 thousand miles. You could also insert hardened valve guides.

[Dean_H.]

Thanks for the tip Huptoy. I'm going to leave the original valves since I already reworked them. But I'll keep your information, should I need to replace these in the future.

Progress has slowed a bit on my old car. I got all the valves in and installed the pistons and head. The rear main seal was pot metal and I had to make a new one. This is where things sort of stalled the last few days. I finally got something I'm satisfied with but it took a little time.

This picture is of the block after I installed the valves. What a beauty! Those valves and cam are a mechanical work of art, sort of sad to put on covers.


The head gasket from Olsen's fit well.


Original (lower half) of rear seal was junk


The upper half of original rear seal


Found a split rear seal in an old gasket set that is correct diameter.

Machining new upper seal holder


Cut 'new' seal holder in half to get what I need


Rough cut lower rear main seal


The result of much machine work and a little welding


And finally finished. It looks like the fit is pretty good. And I painted it cast iron gray so it would look cool.

[huptoy]

Good news, I found the chrome piece that goes in the middle of the front bumper. I believe the 28 and 29 bumpers are the same. It will need to be cleaned up, chromed, and painted but it is solid and intact. They are moving their 28 Hupmobile from Dayton, Oh to Seattle, WA for the next week. I will provide them your email address and you should hear from them in about 10 days. I am enclosing a photo of the front bumper.