Needs some subrail work patch panels.rust holes and probably a few other things im looking over!! The car has a ton of family history for Miles and i cant wait to get it solid again for him
![]()
Needs some subrail work patch panels.rust holes and probably a few other things im looking over!! The car has a ton of family history for Miles and i cant wait to get it solid again for him
![]()
Good to see that you're back with another project. I'm for sure a fan of your work and thinking that whomever your customer is for what ever project they too are liking the result. I'll be following along. Scott...
1931 Dodge DG8 Rumble Seat Coupe
1961 Triumph TR3A
1968 Dodge Dart GTS
1969 Dodge A-100 Sportsman
1996 F150 (Original Owner)
2009 Jeep Liberty
thanks alot scott!!
well just got back from a big vacation/work trip . wisconsin to work on a 40 merc convertible then to austin texas for the lonestar round up!! just got back today and decided to do some work!! man it feels good to work in my own shop again. gonna start on the cowl and work my way back .
a little rot to start off with
a patch panel for the most part that actually fit . i didnt use the beak in the front though it was crooked where the model orig was actually straight
after a little tig welding and some hammer and grinding
![]()
well the cowl sheetmetal is pretty much done .
next gonna do some subframe work
patch tacked in
a little rot left
finished up
drivers side finished up as well
started messing with the sub rails
![]()
well everything was going to smooth....something had to not fit right.
repop subrails are the culprit!
as you can see the pad where the subrail connector rivets to the inner connectors isnt even close . the orig connector had a step in this area to move it back the 3/8 of an inch so the pieces mated as you can see in the pictures.
and the other side showing the same
![]()
well got the front subframe connectors all buttoned up today..
had to have a slit put in them so they would sit flush onto the other piece like a stock one would
after being widened and riveted together
in place. not rivited in just holding it in place
and both
now its time to put it on the jig and make sure we are square before i go any further
well started on the subrail patches because i picked up a frame off a friend of mine ...
cut out the mess
new patch welded and finished
well then i ran out of argon for the tig so it turned into squirt gun sunday (mig) for the drivers side
didnt get to finish it tonight just welded it in
![]()
well apparently there are no repops made of this connector from the door post to the cowl so i had to whip up 2 of em .
heres the first side. they resemble the original but the og pieces have a shape pressed into them . i cant get the shape pressed into 16 gauge plus they are never to be seen again once the car goes back together
and i started on the other side
finished up the drivers side bracket this morning thats they dont repop
then set the seat pan in transferred the rivet holes and got everything lined up there. the rivets arnt set just keeping the panel aligned . i didnt put the rear pan in because it will be much easier to work on the rear of the car with out that piece in.
moving back ward to where the new subframe was once welded on . it needed some help in my opinion
a few patches later and a little tig welding its looking a little better
and the connection on the drivers side after
got all the welds smoothed out
this was a random hole cut here where there was a body mount
had to patch it before i put the subframe in
the subframe was cut to close to the brace so i couldnt clean up the weld nicely. so i cut out some of the new subframe so i could achieve that
and the new connection
put a patch in this riser .no sense on getting a repop when only 1 tiny section was rotted out
got it all smoothed out
this piece in my opinion this rear panel below the decklid is the biggest pain to get out of an A
after i got it out had to redrill and tap all 8 screw holes in the rear subrail
well up front to a rotten door pillar
a little brace so i can fix the bracing
bent this up made the step with a bead roller and all welded up ready to get covered in sheet metal!!
well got the quarter patched and the wheel well a quarter of the way in
i also wonder why they make the patches so horrible ? i mean come on almost a quarter inch short isnt from die wear!!
got the quarter squared away today
and heres a few holes of what was left after the patch was in
and this is it all finished up
![]()
You are truly an artist
Larry Schramm
1915 Buick C-4 Truck
1918 Buick E-4 Truck
1917 Buick D35 Touring
1976 Corvette-Wifes car
1984 VW Westfalia Camper
thanks Larry & first born! if you are ever in Pittsburgh you are more then welcome to stop by
well took a run to snyders today picked up the rear patch for Mile's coupe as well as a truck full of other things
heres the problem .
which in-turn sucked in the trunk gap
a little brass and a double panel!!
tacked in
about 75% done
no real complaints with the panel either a little tweaking here and there but no major surgery to it yet !
Amazing work..![]()
Flop - you are a true artisan. Great thread - pics - descriptions. Keep up the great work, and keep us informed.
Chuck
thanks folks!!
one of the biggest PAINS in putting together a model a is this panel.
its a horrible fit from the get go . the "new bracing" is dreadful .
notice the giant twist
the orig panel wasnt the best . pinholes everywhere . i transferred the orig bracing to the new skin . it fit alot better after that
![]()
A little old, a little new. Nice fix!
thanks luv2 !
shop organizing day car needed some sunlight
well the repop curved inner panel come with this fabulous trunk latch installed..
very happy Miles saved the one from the car.
finally got everything lined up and fitting as it should
the new parts with the old latch installed. works great!!
![]()
It amazes me that companies will sell poor fitting and incorrect panels as you have shown in your various posts. Either they don't know (ie, don't use what they make) and/or no one who uses them provides feedback............or they just don't care.
Anyway, your capabilities and your persistance in making the pieces correct are impressive, Flop!
I do have a question, Flop - it appears that you mostly use TIG welding versus MIG welding. Are the TIG welds easier to finish off than the MIG welds? What are the major advantages of TIG for the type of work you are doing on these bodies?
thanks alot r1lark
ahhh they know how bad their panels are . ive called numerous occasions when i spend good money on a patch and it fits like garbage . usually they are a good start and need about an hour of tweaking to get it to fit right.
tig is amazing for sheetmetal . the weld is much more flush to the metal then a mig(being easier to grind) also it acts a lot like the orig metal when you are working it with the hammer and dolly and wont crack like a mig weld when hammering on it .
heres the quarter patch . again about an eighth inch short .
![]()
some of the last work in this shop!! moving to a new place next week!!
bunch of progress
passenger side finished ! pinholes in door and the under side of the panel in front of the door repaired . wheel well a quarter patch a corner patch and cowl patch !
![]()
Fun watching someone else work. Threads like this really motivate me to re visit tig. Very nice. Dave the Wave
thanks dave!!
all finished up!
and the underside
![]()
Very good job, Flop.
A job WELL DONE!!
Ben
1995 Park Ave
1950 Super Mod 52
1950 Special Mod 41D Second owner
Flop, Awesome Work!
i noticed the Wheel Well Patch Panel has a recess at the front ( I assume it's recessed so the fender sits right? )( Most Repops seem to be flat), Did you put that recess in, or did it come that way from the Supplier?
There are currently 1 users browsing this thread. (0 members and 1 guests)