1937 Buick Series 91 - HELP

[gooph]

Hello everyone...
I am really new to Buicks, or restoring cars for that matter. I have my hands on a Buick that is in very good condition. The only problem is that it has sat in a garage for 5 years. One day while I was messing around I tried to start it and the engine rolled over. So here is my question...

What steps should I take before trying to start this car? Also, can anyone get me anymore information about this car.

Details:
1937 Buick
Series 91
Style: 37-4919
Body: 478
Trim: 324
Paint: 504
It also has a big B in the lower right hand side.
I read somewhere that there were only 1242 made of this model. Can anyone confirm that. Thank you all for your help.
Ryan

[Harry J.]

gooph....First I would drain and flush the gas tank,then the fuel system and finally rebuild the fuel pump. If it has sat this long with fuel in it's system, Then it's probabably gummed up. Make sure there is oil to all of the bearing surfaces when you are ready to start the car. If the car has sat this long, every drop of oil has dropped from the bearing surfaces to the oil pan. For good measure I would squirt a few drops of oil in each cylinder, this will loosen up the rings and give the cylinders some initial lubrication. If the car has hydraulic brakes you may need to rebuild the whole system. Make sure and lubricate all of the oil and grease fittings on the car. Take this process slowly. You might want to turn the engine over several times without the ignition "on"; checking the lubrication each time.

[gooph]

Thanks so much for your post...
What would be the best way to make sure there is oil everywhere. Since the filler cap is low on the side of the block how would I get it up into the engine more.

Also, I've heard of some people putting a mixture into the pistons before trying to start it. I'm worried that oil might not ignite properly making it more difficult to start.

One last thing... Would you happen to have a link on how to go through the fuel pump. I'm also trying to get the old fuel out of the block and replace it with the new fuel.. What do you think?

[DizzyDale]

Dear gooph,First thing,check level in the battery,check level of coolant in radiator,trickle charger on and leave it on through this whole process.CHECK battery connections.You are going to need another set of EYEBALLS to help.Is there a drain plug on the fuel tank?If so get some GOOD penetrating oil and get it soaked up before you try to remove it.When you are ready to remove it use vise grips and really tighten em up.Change the engine oil,pull the plugs and squirt some motor oil in each cyl,with the plugs out you can spin it over till you get a pressure reading on the gauge on the dash.I would install good gas and disconnect fuel line on the outlet side of the fuel pump and crank it over till you have fresh gas at this point.Connect all fuel lines ,CHECK ALL CONNECTIONS AT LEAST TWICE.Operate throttle at the carb to make sure its getting gas.I would connect 1 plug wire and ground it to the head and spin it over and check for spark,if you have a pretty good spark screw all plugs in.At this point have your BUDDY in the car turning the car over and you working the throttle by hand at the carb,NOTHIN like a STUCK to the floor accelerator pedal and the motor to the MOON.diz

[gooph]

Thanks for the post Diz...
It does have a drain in the bottom of the fuel tank. There is no ruston it, so I'm pretty sure I should be able to take the bolt right off.

Other than that I think I have everything I need. I bought new plugs for it(Champion D21), and new wires. What type oil should I use. Some people just suggested some regular 30. I'm pretty sure I have everything else handled. I will let you guys know if I get it started. Also, I will post some pictures. I'm super excited. I will tell you the importance of this car too...

Any other tips?

Thanks again,
Ryan

[imported_Pete Phillips]

ANY series 90 Buick is rare. It is also an approved Classic, recognized by the Classic Car Club of America. The Buick Club Roster publication gives 1229 for production numbers of the model 91 4-dr. sedan. If you crank the engine with the ignition off (or the primary coil wire removed) for 20 or 30 seconds, you should see your oil pressure gauge start to move, and that will be sufficient oil pressure to lubricate the engine prior to starting it.

You need to join the Buick Club of America, if you haven't already. www.buickclub.org A '37 90 series should draw a crowd at any BCA event. Congratulations on finding one.

Pete Phillips, BCA #7338

[critterpainter]

Ryan:
You said the car has been sitting inYOUR garage for 5 years... is this the last time it was run or has it been sittiing without runniing for longer? what I am worried about is the oil as contamination in the oil settles to the bottom after long periods of time and the pick-up for the oil pump is at the bottom of the oil pan.
I guess what I am sayiing is drain the oil, and with the oil drained, put your findger in the drain hole and swing it around to see if there is a lot of sludge down there. If so Pull the pan and clean it if you have any doubts.
If you need parts call Bobs Automobilia at 805 434 2963 as they carry parts for your car.

Bill

[imported_MrEarl]

Gooph,
Congratulations on finding such a rare and beautiful Buick. We'd love to here more about it and offer our help over on the BCA board. We have a special forum for folks to post stories about themselves and their Buicks. here's the link

Me and My Buick

Hope to see ya there.

[Straight eight]

Gee I hope the spark plugs you got are the right length so the tip does not contact the piston. Among Buick circles, the guys usually prefer AC plugs.
Please proceed with caution, this rare bird should not be spoiled before it has a second chance at life.

There should be a Buick club out there with someone who could help you. Where are you located? Why not go on the Buick Club forum?

[RyanR]

Hello everyone... I'm back some years later. I started the 91 last weekend. Replaced the plugs, drained the fuel and turned it over until the fuel pumped clean.

The problem I have now is that I need to locate a carb rebuild kit. I will attach a picture to show you where gas is shooting out of.

Oh by the way, it started right up. I couldn't let it run long enough to idle though because of the gas situation.

[jeff]

Here's the link you need...

Buick Carburetor Parts 1935-1960 - The Carburetor Doctor

The carburetor doctor has the kit for your car! The rebuild is pretty easy, just be sure not to drop any small pieces, and chase out any drill paths with carb cleaner. You will find (based on where its leaking) that you need a new accelerator pump "piston", which is a cup-shaped piece of some kind of phenolic (if I recall). Probably was leather, back in the day.

Good luck!

PS. Move over to the pre-war Buick site!

Jeff

[RyanR]

Thanks Jeff. Does anyone else have an idea on where to get a rebuild kit?

[F&J]

Look at the other side of the carb for the model number casted into the lowest part of the base. Something like AAV-26...

Also, is it a 3 bolt base or 4 bolt base?

The gas is coming out of the accel pump because the needle is stuck open, or the float has a hole which causes it to sink...which acts like a stuck needle.

[RyanR]

The Stromberg is model AA-2. The gas is passing the accelerator pump piston... If that makes any sense. The guys at the link that Jeff gave me don't have the kit for another 2-3 weeks. The base is 4 bolts by the way.

[trp3141592]

"sigh" --there's just NOTHING like a '37... :-)

--Tom (proud owner of a '37 Roadmonster)

[F&J]

Soory, I just looked at my Stromberg kits for the Aerotype carbs.... The one for Buick is NOS GM , says 1939 80-90 series with AAV-26 4 bolt carb.

[Pete Phillips]

Bob's Automobilia
Bob's Automobilia
Get their catalog if you are going to restore this wonderful Buick.

[papaw]

Looks like the accelerator pump is leaking.

[DaveCorbin]

Dear Ryan:
The numbers you posted way back when that are on the body plate came to my attention with your last post. The plate decodes as follows: Trim 324 is for Gray Broadcloth, Paint 504 is for Sudan Blue Poly, and body 478 would have been built in Flint about the second week of December 1936.
If you post the frame and engine number in the car, I can confirm production date.
Regards, Dave Corbin

[The Old Guy]

It may be something as simple as a stuck float . Tap the carb LIGHTLY and see if that doesn't help. If that doesn't do the job ,just disassemble it and make sure the float moves and the needle and seat are clear.

[RyanR]

So the carb issue is all worked out. We took it apart again and put ungodly amounts of carb cleaner in the main jets. It started right up. It had a little bit of a timing issue that we cleaned up, so it idles like a champ now. Going to replace the valve cover gasket and take a look at the valves next weekend. It seems a little bit on the moist side.

It looks as if my Father in law re-did the front end before he passed. We put in some brake fluid and got the air out of the lines and it stops on a dime. Took it for a spin around the block without a hitch.

Here are a couple of questions.
- from a stop it seems like its a little tough to get it into first. Almost like the clutch is entirely disengaging. Same goes from 1st to 2nd. If i double clutch it, it works fine. Is that how its supposed to be. We were looking at adjusting the clutch pedal to get the clutch plate to pull away further.

- It has the original paint on it. Which, with the exception of one or two spots on the front left fender is in pretty good condition. What have you guys used to polish and wax this paint. I tried a little sample spot with some wax, and I was scared by how much blue it pulled off.

- anyone have a good location for new tires. It sat flat for a couple years and it feels a little blocky when you get it up to 40 or so.

- anyone know of a good place to meet up with some fellow Buick enthusiasts in southern California around long beach.

[Thriller]

Ryan,

Good to hear about the progress. First of all, I don't know California geography well, but there are a number of BCA chapters in California - see BCA - Regions for location and contact information.

Wax shouldn't take paint off. If it is taking paint off, then it must be a cleaner wax or something that isn't just wax. I like to use Meguiar's products and follow their multiple step system. Wash, then clean (using a cleaner - this will remove paint, primarily the old oxidized layer and should even things out to remove light scratches and the like - if the paint isn't too thin, then this should be no problem). The next step is to polish - this will add oils back into the paint and give it the shine. Then the wax is applied, which will help to protect the paint. See Car Care Products: Car Waxes to Leather Cleaners, Meguiar's the Leader in Car and Surface Care since 1901.

Good luck.

[Mark Shaw]

Ryan,
You are soooo lucky to have Lucas Classic Tires right there in Long Beach. I have their wide ribbed white wall all season Goodyears on my 38 and get lots of compiments on just the tires. They are bias ply and will therefore follow the grooves in the road some, but that's part of driving these old cars!

http://www.lucasclassictires.com/

Derek provided some good advice on your finish. He does a great job cleaning up old Buicks inside and out...

[RyanR]

Here is another question...
How much should I insure this car for. I really haven't seen anything like this for sale. Any ideas?

Also, Any other ideas about adjusting the clutch?

[Thriller]

The best bet is to get the car appraised. I'm not sure what it is like in your market, but it should only cost $100-200. Then you would have a documented value that you could take to an insurer.

I can't make any comments to recommended insurers - I know Hagerty supports many events, but that is marketing.

Good luck.