1922 Buick 6-44 Engine Problems

[Frencho]

Hi,

I just bought for my french grandfather a 1922 Buick Raodster from Chicago. The car has a great look (see pic next to his 1932 Citroen C6 G) but the trouble comes when then engine gets warm. My Grandfather (80 Years old) has been restauring lots of WWII military vehicle but he is not so familiar with the pre war american engine. So I'm posting here hoping to get a little help from people who must know a bunch about these engines :-)
Here are the symptoms and facts that we've found :
- Start fairly easly with a little chock and idle no problem then
- the chock handle has to be set about 1/8 clock wise from the hot position in order to idle properly
- The engine just stop when setting the chock anywhere else counterclock wise from the position described above
- When the engine gets warm the engine slowly stall, and when puting some gas it keeps runing but we can't drive it, it stall after a few meter
- we changed the coil, capacitor, and all the spark plug but it didn't help
- The battery is charging
- there is a good compression (really hard to turn the engine manually)

So we start thinking about the carburator that is not working properly when the air from manifold gets hot. From what I read on the forum the carb on this car is not easy to adjust.
So before we take it apart do you have some tips, advice, ideas that could help us on our problems

I added pic of the carb view in the Manual





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[Mark Shaw]

Before you change anything in the carburator, I suggest you check the heat riser located between the carburator and the exhaust manifold. The tube inside is often rusted and could be leaking exhaust into the intake manifold.

[Frencho]

Thanks Mark, just to make sure I understand what you mean :
Is the Heat riser shown on the pic I posted ? is it labeled as the Heat Jacket ?

Also I'm confused because when we look at the carburator, as we don't see any airfilter we concluded that the air intake of the carb was in the manifold (I must say I don't really see how that could work but ...)

[1922 Buick]

Mark,
There was no heat riser used on a 1922, heat risers were first used in 1925. Refer to Master Parts Book, Marvel Carburetor Company, 3.283

1922 Buick
Jeff Kearney

[Leif Holmberg]

This`s how the intake and choke house looks on 4cyl.model 1923.
Leif in Sweden.

[ROD W]

Try bi-passing the vacume tank with a fuel container conected straight to float bowl, it
may be starving for fuel. Check that the cork float is not fuel logged and the carby is not flooding. Ensure the air valve adjustment screw is corectly set (large knurled screw above float bowl) end should be level with ratchet. and fuel adjustment screw at bottom of carby.
close then open about one and a bit turns. I have a metal plate between the vacume tank and manifold to shield the vacume tank fromheat which causes vapour locks.
Rod

[Mark Shaw]

Frencho,
Yes since the 22 Buick has a heat jacket, make sure there are no cracks that would allow exhaust to enter the intake manifold. Also make sure the valves that control the heat to the carburator are not stuck and blocking exhaust flow to the tail pipe.

[dibarlaw]

I remember this car for sale and we were considering it. We had almost bought a similar 1923-54 sport roadster. But we were afraid of this type of mechanical issue. Even harder for you to deal with in Europe.
Larry

[jbbuick22]

Sounds like you have carb. problems, a professional rebuild would be better but---.
If you have not replaced the float, and be sure to seal the cork before installing.
Check float level and while the carb. is removed check the jet tube for cracks.

JB
22-6-55 Sport Touring

[Brian_Heil]

Sounds like a fuel issue to me. Either somethings plugged up allowing limited flow or pump not pumping or carb float not working.

Try an external fuel source like a can and hose to carb to remove the pump from the picture. If that does not fix things, then the problem is in the carb. Only cork float may be broken or no longer floating or sedement plugging fuel passages in the bowl and carb.

I have seen a plugged vent hole in the fuel tank cause fuel delivery problems but this usually takes a few miles to develop. Also there is a strainer screen at the fuel pump and in the tank that can be plugged.

The heat jacket on a pre 1924 is a very robust casting, never seen one crack (or rust thru like all the 1924 on up ones do with the pipe system).

[Frencho]

Thank you all for the answer, tips and advice
My Grand father is gonna take the carb down anyway and see what he can do or see.

I'll keep you up to date with what we find

But for my personal knowledge could someone explain to me where do the air intake for the carb is since there is no air filter ?!

Last but not least, if we see a prob with the carb I guess we have two options :
- have it re-built by a professional : do you know a good address for that
- Replace the carb by newer, more recent carb that could fit on the car : I read it was possible on this forum, but I'm not sure with which type

[Leif Holmberg]

There are no air filter,not even my 1925 Buick have that,I think 1926 are the first year with air filter.If you put your fingers behind the carburetor you can feel the intake.Look at my picture earlier post the square hole is the intake.If you turn the choke reglage on dash you can feel that the intake on carburetor will close.
Leif in Sweden.

[jbbuick22]

If you choose to replace the carb with a newer one , it is possible to turn the intake
manifold upsidedown and use a down draft carb. This has been discussed before on
this forum.
If this carb is not repairable I do have an extra. The Marvel model H is used only one year.

JB

[carbking]

Clement - I received your email, but choose to answer here, as others may chime in if they opt to do so.

You asked about replacing the carburetor with something else. Yes, it may be done, but there are NO "bolt on swaps" without doing some changes, modifications, and fabrication.

The original Marvel carburetor was an S.A.E. (Society of Automotive Engineers) size 2. This means a standard 2 bolt mounting flange, with center to center spacing of the mounting bolts.

We would suggest 3 different possibilities as replacement carburetors. These are all universals, with an externally adjustable main metering jet. These three would be:

Stromberg SF-2 (my choice)
Carter BB1A or BB1D (also an excellent choice)
Zenith (don't remember the number). The Zenith is less expensive, but less of a carburetor than the other two.

Other possibilities of companies making universal replacements in the olden days that would fit your Buick (that I would not recommend, but others might):

Tillotson
Schebler model S
Rayfield

I personally feel any of these three is like the old saying of jumping from the frying pan into the fire.

Finally, while I personally don't care for the Marvel, it can be made to work somewhat better than the success you are currently experiencing. Before making the decision to replace it, check the valve timing, and especially for vacuum leaks. Replacing a carburetor to fix a timing problem will not solve the timing problem.

Jon.