Buick Special 1956 Model 41

[hudini]

for, Pete
Pics from disassembling, left and right side of engine with dual exhaust.


the muffler are not original

[54fins]

The 56 has a high brake cylinder so dual exhaust is no problem. I can imagine that is quite a project, I suspect it is hard to find parts in Croatia. Let is know what parts you may need.

[hudini]

to this day chassis is ready. I think I hit the color of engine. now we wait until body is done (possibly within a month)

please comment. Tell me what's wrong and what not.

[54fins]

very nice. I understand the transmissions were engine color, but could also be black or unpainted. So, consider this more of a discussion topic than anything definitive.
When you get to the body, I have found on unrestored cars they hit most everything with red oxide primer. I personaly like the underside and pans to be the car color, but red oxide primer is how they were shipped. For judging, that isn't an issue (the pan is under carpet and the underside is a one knee rule) Just a few discussion points depending on how "correct" you are trying to be.

But often, when I think I have "correct" defined, I later discover I was wrong. So, Take my comments with a grain of salt.

[JohnD1956]

Beautiful work! If possible, I would install the rest of the exhaust system before installing the body.

Did you rebuild the transmission while it was out, or just paint it?

In the earlier pictures I noticed the brake master cylinder is not of the original kind. I also noticed this was set up with what I think is a late 80's era power brake booster and master cylinder. I believe a stick shift 56 Special would not have dual exhaust, and I am guessing this has to do with the shift linkage and original style master cylinder. In this car however, someone already engineered a way around that and put on the dual exhaust. I, personally, would just leave it as is. Power brakes are definitely better than manual, and dual exhaust is a nice touch.

What color do you plan to paint the car?

[hudini]

this week the exhaust system will be installed. On transmission we just replaced seals and oil.
In one way that is very good that someone change the master brake cylinder, but when that cylinder brakes?? what then? I don't know from what car that master brake cylinder is. If you now please tell, so i will now what parts in need and from what car. When I bought this buick it was in very good condition except floor.
The last owner take good care.
I can not decide between two colors, one is metallic silver with metallic white, white-silver-white, (by metallic i mean with "grains") and the other one is turquoise with white, white-turquoise-turquoise.
What experience do you have with engine oil?? what you put?

[54fins]

The restoration is quite impressive, I suspect you may not have a lot of 50's Buick parts readily available. I will address the oil, since I work in that industry and have some experience with the 322 nailhead. The shop manual is as valid today as it was 50 years ago. I do not have a 56 manual, but the 54 manual recommends 20 wt oil. I use 5W-20 with excellent results. 10W30 or 10W40 are more common- and probably fine, but I would not use 10W40. Thicker is often mistaken for better- not true. However, lower viscosity oils move faster into the critical areas- like the valve train. If an exhaust valve sticks, the results are catastrophic. There is also a very tight passage around a bolt thread as the oil goes to the valve rockers. This is a problem, the nailhead needs good top end lubrication. I may be the only Buick owner that uses 5W20 in his engine, but I have not had a single valve problem with that grade or any valve noise. I also met with a Buick mechanic that rebuilt nailheads for a dealer in the late 50's, early 60's. They would strongly advise their clients to use 10 or 20 wt oil and that was the best way to avoid a valve job. Higher viscosity oil just didn't get in the valve guides. I also change the oil every fall before I store the car for winter. If you do nothing else, keep the oil clean and full. I use Red ATF in the tranny so I can see where it leaks (they all do) and service the diff fluid too. ATF will leak down the torque tube and gradually ruin the rear end. Keep the fluids happy and the engine and drive train will last a very long time. The Dynaflow is virtually indestructible but will not tolerate being towed, forcing it to run from the back wheels. Also, don't forget that oil filter. They are often quite old and deteriorated. Of course, this applies to any car but the nailhead won't forgive you for low or bad oil. They do make an excellent boat anchor after you drop a valve. One more note, I use Zinc additive in the oil and lead substitute in the fuel. Not sure how important they are, but that is highly recommended for old engines so I figure it's cheap anyhow.

[JohnD1956]

I am not an engineer and only have experience with this one nailhead. I have used 10-40 w oil without adding zinc. I have not driven the car far in the last few years but I also do not have valve train problems. However that may be due to the valve job I did back in 1988 or so. I am taking 54Fins advice to heart. I need to change my oil and will probably use the 10w20 if I can find it. I won't add additional zinc though.
I also do not add any lead substitute to the gas. For the winter I will use Stabil to try and prevent problems with the gas blends we get here. And I will add marvel mystery oil to the gas too.

Can you post close up pictures of the master cylinder and booster so we can try to identify it for you?

[Jack Stacey]

That green looks great on that engine.

[54fins]

Since I'm going to use a 425 nailhead in my modified, I need to see what the shop manual recommends for oil. The oil passage to the valve train is enlarged over the 322 and I have not read the shop manual for the 425, so if anyone has a manual do post the oil specs. Overall, if you keep the fluids serviced and full that is the most important issue. Old oil is bad and a surprising number of old cars have old oil in them! As for the 56- do you need a new master or did someone modify it and you are trying to match it? The original one is probably not to difficult to locate.

[JohnD1956]

54fins, The original one is difficult to get because it is a one year, one car application. Finding one is not too bad. rebuilding one is $$$. From the distance in the pics above I can see that the master cylinder in this vehicle has a plastic see through reservoir. That puts the cylinder in the late 80's - through 2000's I believe. What throws me off is the brake pedal in the other picture. That looks like a 6o's Chevy brake pedal to me. Anyway, what's done is done and if it's working I'd leave it alone and move forward. I don't think there are many judges in Croatia who will know the difference.

[54fins]

I have a couple of 56 centuries but have not got into them yet. The roadmaster has an interesting steering setup with u joints, the small body appears to be the straight column. 56's also appears to go to a high brake cylinder (nice, under the car is a pain) Closer look, I can see he has a newer master- good point, leave well enough alone. It should be easy to identify with a close up shot. I did not know that 56 had a unique setup- I figured it would be the same as a 57. impressive job, That is a big project in the US with lots of parts and Buick people around. Where did you acquire the car?

[hudini]

Here are pics from brake cyclinder that I have.
The car was buy from Tampa Bay.
Thank you all

[JohnD1956]

I don't immediately recogonize this Master Cylinder. Is there one or two brake lines comming off that cylinder?

[hudini]

Finally, after months and months of waiting finally bodywork is finished. no more such worker. I could do this in max 1 month. ok, the worst is gone. now on body is going to put rust protection and everything else what is need to be put. In 10 days car is going on painting and then assembling.
Here are some new photos, 2 days old.

And of course I need your help... In Europe we have other threads, if someone could tell me which body clips I need for side trim. Thank you. You are the best for help. Regards

[54fins]

The clips are pretty standard but will range from 1/2 inch to 4". The metal ones with the spring stay in while you line up the holes. You can buy them on ebay if you can't find them. Looks like you got the rust out. A pain, but it will be much nicer. I would suggest some drain holes in the rockers. All the seams start rusting where dirt builds up and plugs drain holes. keep the metal clean and dry and rust will never get started. Enclosed areas will get wet from condensation, everything must drain. The factory drain holes on the rocker bottom aimed backwards, I suspect to keep water from splashing in

[Mark Simmons]

Hudini-- That's some body mount system that you have there for rotating the body while working on it,reminds me of when I was your age all those decades ago. Keep up the good work on your project. Mark

[Peter Bird]

This is coming together at breakneck pace! I'm out of breath just trying to keep up on reading of its progress.

[hudini]

Todays fresh pics, this is just one hand painting, today and tomorrow go second hand. It look like new
This car is big...
Tomorrow new pics...

[avgwarhawk]

Hudini,

Nice work. Finished product will be top notch!

[JohnD1956]

Nice Work! Are you just rolling the body onto it's side for the underneath work?

[hudini]

yes
here are new pics from yesterday.

[JohnD1956]

I must admit I never thought of doing that. Meanwhile it looks like this is coming together very nicely.

[bhambulldog]

Very Nice!!!

[hudini]

How much cost two tone paint job for this car, in your town?