55 Century 66R Project

[Mudbone]

I just got a credit in my account from the rocker arms I returned. So I just ordered them from another supplier. Lets hope it doesn't take a month to get them like before. Mud

[old-tank]

After losing a week of my life to a gout attack and watching a lot of daytime TV, I was almost convinced that I needed a Hoveround power chair, a life alert button, (Help I’ve fallen and I can’t get up) Depends discreetly delivered to my door. And a disposable catheter. I also felt the need to order a walk-in tub. I almost picked up the phone to call a lawyer to get cash settlement for the various bad medications that I may or may not used. And did you know that Ben Cartwright from Bonanza was originally a Sailor? (Glad to get back to work)

I had time to upload a video that I had made several months ago. (It is all about balls and seats)
1955 Buick 322 Oil Filter Bypass Seat Repair - YouTube

You did not mention facial products or getting a prescription for E.D.

[JohnD1956]

LOL... Get better soon Mud.

BTW, I really appreciate your videos on the rebuild. So much I have never done. Just wondering, how much peening did it take to make that new seat in the oil filter housing?

[Mudbone]

I gave it a couple of firm taps. I then checked it with brake clean. If it can hold back break clean with just the weight of the ball it will hold oil. Mud

[JohnD1956]

Understood. Thanks and hope you feel better soon.

JD

[Mudbone]

I have received the new rocker arms. The oil hole is in a different location but it looks like the valve stem will still get some oil. The groove on the inside is not all the way around as the other rockers were. As I have already installed the valve seals I think it would be wise to continue the groove all the way intersecting the oil holes. Any thoughts? Mud

[avgwarhawk]

What do the original rockers look like? I would believe the valley not reaching the hole forces the oil out to the surfaces making contact eventually finding its way to the hole or vise versa. I'm not sure the direction of flow. At any rate, my thoughts are if the hole and valley are connected it provides a path of least resistance and the oil may not reach the surfaces contacting each other. I could be wrong but I would hope the new or remanufactured arms are as ther should be.

[old-tank]

Mud
Continue the groove to the holes, but very lightly and try it out. I have a set installed that came with deep grooves from hole to hole and it put out a tremendous flow of oil, so much that when cold the thicker oil would not return and filled the valve covers. I tapped the holes over the valve and inserted an allen screw and was going to drill with a tiny drill, but it was too hard to drill; but it turned out that enough oil still came out around the allen screws to put out a good spray. That is where I stopped 80,000 miles ago (I was considering drilling the tiny hole in the arm next to the original.).
It might work well as is....
Willie

[Mudbone]

I have decided to install the rocker arms as they are and see how much oil flows and where. I installed two lifters, pushrods and rockers to check fit of the 56 pushrods. With the lifters on the backside of the lobe (Valves closed) the lifter is about in the middle of its max stroke. The machine shop said it should be .040 – 060. This is about double of that. I will give them a call. And of course Willie is right about the tube style push rod clearance in the bore. They don’t touch but they are very close. I will have to remove a little material to be safe. Mud

[old-tank]

"Middle of its max stroke..."
Let's see what the machine shop says, but that is what I have found on mine and I called it 'close enough for government work'. After some wear-in it will be better (or worse...). If noisy, then adjustable pushrods are in order. (it would be nice if we could assemble with NOS parts or exact duplicates..."If it were easy everyone would be doing it")
Willie

[Mudbone]

The machine shop said it would be fine. He said when you have adjustable rockers and adjust them like the book says it ends up being about .040-.060. With nonadjustable rockers you get what you get as long as there in the range of operation. Now all I have to do is open up the guide holes a little. Mud

(Restoring Buick’s is not for sissies)

[davidyavidy]

Mud,
I recently registered on this site to see what was going on in the world of old Buicks because a friend just purchased a '56 Century Riviera and wants me to help get it on the road. Was looking thru your rebuild photos and noticed a few of the transmission. In the pic numbered HPIM3468.JPG, I noticed two vertical cylindrical shaped things on either side of the case. The one on the right in the picture (driver's side) has two shafts coming out, one of which is connected to the throttle linkage for what I assume to be a passing gear when pushing the throttle to the floor. This thing leaks around the shaft, and I was wondering if any springs or things would come flying out at me if I removed it (the assembly, that is) from the transmission while still in the vehicle. I don't have a transmission overhaul manual yet and would like to know if there are any surprises I should be aware of before removing it so I can hopefully repair the fluid leak. Any info would be appreciated. Thanks. Dave

[Mudbone]

You should be able to just unbolt it. Lots of parts inside. Mud

[old-tank]

You should not have to remove the accumulator to replace the seal in the bearing. The seal is a small lip seal and should help with the leak, but don't expect it to stop completely. If you remove the accumulator be sure to have a replacement gasket on hand.

[Mudbone]

Maybe this is why I didn’t get much done on the car this summer. My dad left us too many old toys. Enjoy, Mud

Plowing with the Model T Ford 2012 - YouTube

[avgwarhawk]

That's awesome. Sometimes the simplicity of the machine far outweighs the over engineering of another machine both created to accomplish the same task. Although John Deere green is a cool color The soil looks like black gold to boot.

[First Born]

AWSOM, Mud!

Ben

[MrEarl]

Man y'all are havin just TOO much fun. What a great Sunday morning coffee sipping treat. I hope everyone sees that are what, 5-6 videos. The one of mom and dad in 73 was great. And the plow cam.
Was that an ahooogah horn on the frame I saw?

THANKS for sharing!!!!!!!!!!

Ok now time to get back to boring ol 55 Buicks. :-)

[Mudbone]

It is definitely a part of the family. After my dad had passed away the T had been sitting for 17 years. It took 2 hours to get it running and we try to get it out every year if possible. Enough of that, back to the Buick!

[Mudbone]

Finally after 5 weeks of cold and flu I was able to get back out to the garage this morning and work on the Nailhead. I opened up all the pushrod holes for clearance and was able to get one rocker shaft installed. I got more done today that I have in the last three months!! Mud

[Rob McDonald]

MUD, somewhat off topic: I've watched all 34 episodes of "Mudbone Overhauls A Dynaflow" on YouTube. Gotta admit, you've scared the bejeebers out of me! Before watching you in action, I thought heck it's just another big ol' car part, why shouldn't I just tear into it and change all the seals? My transmission was heavily rebuilt in 1973 (I recently found the itemized invoice for $325) and has been driven less than 1000 miles since. It always worked perfectly, except for developing serious fluid leaks as it sat in storage.

Now after reading the shop manual several times, studying the parts manual, and seeing your videos, I feel completely unprepared to tackle this. Not enough tools and not enough space to spread everything out in an orderly manner. I have no experience checking for clearances or endplay; I've always let a machine shop make those decisions on the few engines I've rebuilt. I think I'll be a lot happier getting a transmission shop to do this for me and I've found one that's recommended by members of the antique car club around here. The shop figures 8 to 10 hours for an overhaul, assuming no damage or previous screw-ups are found. I've already got the gaskets and seals from Auto Tran. The kit also came with new clutches, which probably aren't needed.

I do want to thank you, though, for your time and effort in preparing this helpful overview of the workings (and failings) of a Dynaflow. You've probably saved me stripping the darned thing down and then being unable to reassemble it within my natural lifetime.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=_S_HX...JtuTrIdf-XKsXU

[Mudbone]

"You've probably saved me stripping the darned thing down and then being unable to reassemble it within my natural lifetime."

Sometimes I wonder the same thing! Mud

[avgwarhawk]

How did it work out with the new rocker arms? I believe you shipped back some suspect arms.

[Mudbone]

How did it work out with the new rocker arms? I believe you shipped back some suspect arms.

The first ones were ok except half of them were rebuilt and I paid for new ones. The ones I have now appear to be working out. When I fire it up then we will know for sure. Mud

[avgwarhawk]

Good deal. Looking forward to the starting of the rebuild.