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Thread: 1911 Buick model 14

  1. #26
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*


    I was able to restore the diameters of the linkage balls of
    both the radius rod arm (above) and the pittman arm (below)
    minus .020". With a short bar of steel (at left)and a tube
    of valve grinding compound, I hand lapped the link balls to an
    even size (whithin .0015" on the diameter).
    The bar has a 15/16" drilled hole in the end with tapered bore
    out to the largest diameter of the link ball.
    It takes a while; about .002 to .003" per hour by hand. It is
    faster with the tool in the lathe, but leaves scratches in the
    steel...
    Thanks,
    Joe

  2. #27

    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Hi Joe,
    Would you have any info on the clutch cover for a 14B, we have given up hope of getting the parts from the previous owner.
    Would you have a drawing?
    Sorry to ask.

    Regards

    Ian

  3. #28
    Senior Member serb's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    I am bringing this back to the top just because I think it is a fantastic read. I find it amazing to read Joe's blow by blow description of what he is doing. We should all have that type of patience and knowledge.

    You go, Joe.


    Stevo
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  4. #29
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Thanks Stevo,
    Just trying to find a web hosting site on which my uploaded
    photos don't look like they have 1/8" inch of grease smeared
    over them....
    Joe

  5. #30
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14


    Out of frustration with trying to seal a cork carburetor
    float, I machined a die to hydroform two halves of a float
    from .005" thick brass shim stock.
    I found that I needed to limit the travel of the brass whithin
    the die cavity between drawing and annealing of the blank;
    shown to each side are inserts made from 5 minute epoxy which
    fit whithin the steel die cavity.
    The upper half of the float has a threaded brass lug (4-40 tap
    with a blind hole) for attachment to the float arm.
    I tried out the float in dad's model 10 Buick- so far no
    leaks!...
    Thanks,
    Joe
    Last edited by MrEarl; December 9th, 2012 at 09:11. Reason: edit title per request

  6. #31
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14


    Arrangement for checking fuel level in float bowl;
    It turns out the brass float is too bouyant- a different
    float arm will have to be fabricated to raise the fuel level
    at least 3/8" of an inch to avoid starving out on hills...
    Thanks,
    Joe
    Last edited by MrEarl; December 9th, 2012 at 09:13. Reason: edit title per request

  7. #32
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14


    The center five teeth of the bronze segment gear on the
    steering box had quite a bit of wear; I was able to silver
    solder the top half of the worn teeth. I then re-faced the
    gear in the lathe and cut all the teeth .070" of an inch
    deeper. I used the good profile teeth at each end for grinding
    a fly cutting tool as well as figuring out tooth spacing..
    Thanks,
    Joe
    Last edited by MrEarl; December 9th, 2012 at 09:12. Reason: edit title per request

  8. #33
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*


    It fits!
    I was tickled pink today that I was able to cold bend my
    brass steering wheel spider in the arbor press (between wood
    blocks); still a little scary though...
    Thanks,
    Joe

  9. #34
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*


    Making neoprene spring snubbers for the leaf springs. I was
    able to "machine" a square pocket in the rubber using a flexible shaft Dremel grinder mounted to the Bridgeport
    spindle. The small center hole in the neoprene material was opened up with a 1 3/8" hole saw in the lathe (drilling half way from each end). The rubber cuts off easily in the bandsaw
    and the ends are squared up on a bench mounted belt sander...
    Thanks,
    Joe

  10. #35
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*



    Pressure testing for leaks at 4 p.s.i.; the only ones found were around the filler cap neck
    which were easily soldered. I made a cap out of delrin plastic with an o-ring at the base
    of the threads and tapped hole for the guage.
    Thanks,
    Joe

  11. #36
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Tires mounted on painted wheels- they slid on easily with handsoap about
    the bead. Many thanks to Greg Fish in obtaining a positive I.D. on the dark
    green used on the body, fenders & wheels of his late father's model 14 Buick.
    Thanks,
    Joe

  12. #37
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Hello,
    Making progress on assembly work; I set the motor in this week (minus the
    flywheel). I can now center up the driveshaft/transaxle to the flywheel
    mounting flange via the u-joint (not pictured).
    I had a local boat top and tarp maker sew up a set of tire bags with velcro
    straps; I'll be able to move the chassis around without scruffing up
    the grey tires..
    Thanks,
    Joe

  13. #38
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    I've been sidetracked with a tedius but interesting project -replicating the
    early style of drive chain used on the Model 14. One of the chains on my car
    was old enough that it still had individual cotter pins on each of the connecting
    pins between links (on one side of the chain only). The other end of the pins
    has a low round head.
    So I bought 2 ten foot lengths of number 60 drive chain; modern chain is
    dimensionally identical to the old stuff. Using a chain breaker, I took apart
    150 inches worth of connecting and roller links. Using carbide end mills, the
    holes in these were drilled out to slightly under 1/4" (they were 6 mm).
    I bought 200 hardened 1/4 inch clevis pins from Mc Master-Carr. These were
    each drilled with a 1/16 carbide straight flute bit at the cotter pin location.
    The clevis pin heads were then rounded off in the lathe (a lot of sharpening
    of the carbide tool bits). The pins were sanded to length and champhered.
    Then just add 200 cotter pins and you are ready to assemble...


    Last edited by Joe Kieliszek; November 21st, 2009 at 21:15.

  14. #39
    Senior Member Thriller's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Wow. You are much more patient than I am to be able to pull that chain work off.
    Derek Thille
    BCA #39416, MBCC #1984, BGR #11
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    2006 Buick Rainier - "Ruby" / 2005 GMC Sierra K2500 - "Max"
    Thriller's Out of Date Buick Page

  15. #40
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Hi Derek,
    Thanks; now I'm hoping that the chains will have the proper tension around
    the sprockets. I'd hate to readjust the freshly painted drag link rods between
    the drive and trail axles...
    They looked as if their settings have never been tampered with.
    Thanks,
    Joe

  16. #41
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*



    Hello,
    I finally added the rear wheels and chains last week . I'll add the brake
    and shifting handles and linkage in the spring. I ended up readjusting the
    turnbuckles on the drag link rods to the trail axle as the new chains were
    quite a bit shorter (I ended up repainting them anyway!).
    Thanks,
    Joe

  17. #42
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*





    Hello,
    This year I prepped the new wood body for top coat; I used a catalast
    hardened polyester spray-on surfacer. I still had some work with body
    filler on the back of the driver side seat bucket to match it to the
    passenger side. I also coated the floor boards, running boards and
    battery box.
    Then it was sand, sand and then sand some more!
    Everything is at the paint shop now; I should have some nice photos
    as I get things back....
    Thanks,
    Joe

  18. #43
    Sr (grey-haired) Member Rob McDonald's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    JOE, I am completely in awe of guys like you, who can repair, replicate or design and build from scratch just about anything for these magnificent machines. To me, the inner workings of a rebuilt transaxle are just as beautiful and inspiring as finished cars on the lawn.

    Please keep posting - you've got me hooked. Maybe you could ask the moderators to change the heading of this thread. The word *DELETED* caused me to ignore this item for quite a while.
    Rob McDonald
    1957 Buick Roadmaster model 73A, owned since February 1973
    1962 Valiant Signet
    1967 Valiant 100, daily driver

  19. #44
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Thank you Rob,
    I haven't been doing much in the garage with 20 degrees outside and the heater on the fritz...
    Thanks,
    Joe

  20. #45
    Sr (grey-haired) Member Rob McDonald's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    JOE, if you want to play "What Izzit?", please have a look on my post on AACA GENERAL DISCUSSION, Photo and Video Forums, What is it? Sub-forum. We might be related, sort of.
    Rob McDonald
    1957 Buick Roadmaster model 73A, owned since February 1973
    1962 Valiant Signet
    1967 Valiant 100, daily driver

  21. #46
    Sr (grey-haired) Member Rob McDonald's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Well, that was quick. I'm already pretty certain that my grandfather's one-and-only automobile was not a 1911 McLaughlin-Buick, as I'd been told. It was probably a 1911 Tudhope Model 30, the Canadian version of an Everitt, built in Orillia, Ontario.

    Dang it, researching this story will keep me out of the garage this holiday season, for sure.
    Attached Thumbnails Attached Thumbnails Click image for larger version. 

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    Rob McDonald
    1957 Buick Roadmaster model 73A, owned since February 1973
    1962 Valiant Signet
    1967 Valiant 100, daily driver

  22. #47
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    Hello,
    I got the body back from paint in April; back from the upholsterer in May.
    The dash, hood and radiator are fitted- temporarily.
    The body will come off again in a couple months so the top can be fitted.
    Thanks,
    Joe







  23. #48
    Sr (grey-haired) Member Rob McDonald's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    JOE, what a beauty! You have got to be very pleased.

    About those "gaiters" - hope you're not planning to drive around with those on, to save those lovely white tires.
    Rob McDonald
    1957 Buick Roadmaster model 73A, owned since February 1973
    1962 Valiant Signet
    1967 Valiant 100, daily driver

  24. #49
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*







    Hello,
    I attached the brass window frame and the steel top support iron (unpainted)
    to the seat buckets. I was then able to hang the new oak top bows from the
    ceiling; these were c-clamped to new bow sockets so the final length of the
    bows could be determined.
    The bow ends were then band sawed to the socket taper; corners were
    rounded with a small hand held belt sander. The finish shape was filed in.
    All bow ends have a nice tight fit into the sockets- about 3 boofs of the
    mallet...
    Thanks,
    Joe

  25. #50
    Sr (grey-haired) Member Rob McDonald's Avatar
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    Re: 1911 Buick model 14 *DELETED*

    JOE, that top bow is very delicate looking. Did you cut them out of a plank or did you bend them (with steam?) from small stock? The slight taper on those bow sockets must must have been a challenge to fabricate. I like your units of measure - how many kiloNewtons in a boof?
    Rob McDonald
    1957 Buick Roadmaster model 73A, owned since February 1973
    1962 Valiant Signet
    1967 Valiant 100, daily driver

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