1911 Buick model 14

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

I was able to restore the diameters of the linkage balls of
both the radius rod arm (above) and the pittman arm (below)
minus .020". With a short bar of steel (at left)and a tube
of valve grinding compound, I hand lapped the link balls to an
even size (whithin .0015" on the diameter).
The bar has a 15/16" drilled hole in the end with tapered bore
out to the largest diameter of the link ball.
It takes a while; about .002 to .003" per hour by hand. It is
faster with the tool in the lathe, but leaves scratches in the
steel...
Thanks,
Joe

[Iana]

Hi Joe,
Would you have any info on the clutch cover for a 14B, we have given up hope of getting the parts from the previous owner.
Would you have a drawing?
Sorry to ask.

Regards

Ian

[serb]

I am bringing this back to the top just because I think it is a fantastic read. I find it amazing to read Joe's blow by blow description of what he is doing. We should all have that type of patience and knowledge.

You go, Joe.


Stevo

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

Thanks Stevo,
Just trying to find a web hosting site on which my uploaded
photos don't look like they have 1/8" inch of grease smeared
over them....
Joe

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

Out of frustration with trying to seal a cork carburetor
float, I machined a die to hydroform two halves of a float
from .005" thick brass shim stock.
I found that I needed to limit the travel of the brass whithin
the die cavity between drawing and annealing of the blank;
shown to each side are inserts made from 5 minute epoxy which
fit whithin the steel die cavity.
The upper half of the float has a threaded brass lug (4-40 tap
with a blind hole) for attachment to the float arm.
I tried out the float in dad's model 10 Buick- so far no
leaks!...
Thanks,
Joe

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

Arrangement for checking fuel level in float bowl;
It turns out the brass float is too bouyant- a different
float arm will have to be fabricated to raise the fuel level
at least 3/8" of an inch to avoid starving out on hills...
Thanks,
Joe

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

The center five teeth of the bronze segment gear on the
steering box had quite a bit of wear; I was able to silver
solder the top half of the worn teeth. I then re-faced the
gear in the lathe and cut all the teeth .070" of an inch
deeper. I used the good profile teeth at each end for grinding
a fly cutting tool as well as figuring out tooth spacing..
Thanks,
Joe

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

It fits!
I was tickled pink today that I was able to cold bend my
brass steering wheel spider in the arbor press (between wood
blocks); still a little scary though...
Thanks,
Joe

[imported_Joe Kieliszek]

Making neoprene spring snubbers for the leaf springs. I was
able to "machine" a square pocket in the rubber using a flexible shaft Dremel grinder mounted to the Bridgeport
spindle. The small center hole in the neoprene material was opened up with a 1 3/8" hole saw in the lathe (drilling half way from each end). The rubber cuts off easily in the bandsaw
and the ends are squared up on a bench mounted belt sander...
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

Pressure testing for leaks at 4 p.s.i.; the only ones found were around the filler cap neck
which were easily soldered. I made a cap out of delrin plastic with an o-ring at the base
of the threads and tapped hole for the guage.
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

Tires mounted on painted wheels- they slid on easily with handsoap about
the bead. Many thanks to Greg Fish in obtaining a positive I.D. on the dark
green used on the body, fenders & wheels of his late father's model 14 Buick.
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hello,
Making progress on assembly work; I set the motor in this week (minus the
flywheel). I can now center up the driveshaft/transaxle to the flywheel
mounting flange via the u-joint (not pictured).
I had a local boat top and tarp maker sew up a set of tire bags with velcro
straps; I'll be able to move the chassis around without scruffing up
the grey tires..
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

I've been sidetracked with a tedius but interesting project -replicating the
early style of drive chain used on the Model 14. One of the chains on my car
was old enough that it still had individual cotter pins on each of the connecting
pins between links (on one side of the chain only). The other end of the pins
has a low round head.
So I bought 2 ten foot lengths of number 60 drive chain; modern chain is
dimensionally identical to the old stuff. Using a chain breaker, I took apart
150 inches worth of connecting and roller links. Using carbide end mills, the
holes in these were drilled out to slightly under 1/4" (they were 6 mm).
I bought 200 hardened 1/4 inch clevis pins from Mc Master-Carr. These were
each drilled with a 1/16 carbide straight flute bit at the cotter pin location.
The clevis pin heads were then rounded off in the lathe (a lot of sharpening
of the carbide tool bits). The pins were sanded to length and champhered.
Then just add 200 cotter pins and you are ready to assemble...

[Thriller]

Wow. You are much more patient than I am to be able to pull that chain work off.

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hi Derek,
Thanks; now I'm hoping that the chains will have the proper tension around
the sprockets. I'd hate to readjust the freshly painted drag link rods between
the drive and trail axles...
They looked as if their settings have never been tampered with.
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hello,
I finally added the rear wheels and chains last week . I'll add the brake
and shifting handles and linkage in the spring. I ended up readjusting the
turnbuckles on the drag link rods to the trail axle as the new chains were
quite a bit shorter (I ended up repainting them anyway!).
Thanks,
Joe

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hello,
This year I prepped the new wood body for top coat; I used a catalast
hardened polyester spray-on surfacer. I still had some work with body
filler on the back of the driver side seat bucket to match it to the
passenger side. I also coated the floor boards, running boards and
battery box.
Then it was sand, sand and then sand some more!
Everything is at the paint shop now; I should have some nice photos
as I get things back....
Thanks,
Joe

[Rob McDonald]

JOE, I am completely in awe of guys like you, who can repair, replicate or design and build from scratch just about anything for these magnificent machines. To me, the inner workings of a rebuilt transaxle are just as beautiful and inspiring as finished cars on the lawn.

Please keep posting - you've got me hooked. Maybe you could ask the moderators to change the heading of this thread. The word *DELETED* caused me to ignore this item for quite a while.

[Joe Kieliszek]

Thank you Rob,
I haven't been doing much in the garage with 20 degrees outside and the heater on the fritz...
Thanks,
Joe

[Rob McDonald]

JOE, if you want to play "What Izzit?", please have a look on my post on AACA GENERAL DISCUSSION, Photo and Video Forums, What is it? Sub-forum. We might be related, sort of.

[Rob McDonald]

Well, that was quick. I'm already pretty certain that my grandfather's one-and-only automobile was not a 1911 McLaughlin-Buick, as I'd been told. It was probably a 1911 Tudhope Model 30, the Canadian version of an Everitt, built in Orillia, Ontario.

Dang it, researching this story will keep me out of the garage this holiday season, for sure.

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hello,
I got the body back from paint in April; back from the upholsterer in May.
The dash, hood and radiator are fitted- temporarily.
The body will come off again in a couple months so the top can be fitted.
Thanks,
Joe

[Rob McDonald]

JOE, what a beauty! You have got to be very pleased.

About those "gaiters" - hope you're not planning to drive around with those on, to save those lovely white tires.

[Joe Kieliszek]

Hello,
I attached the brass window frame and the steel top support iron (unpainted)
to the seat buckets. I was then able to hang the new oak top bows from the
ceiling; these were c-clamped to new bow sockets so the final length of the
bows could be determined.
The bow ends were then band sawed to the socket taper; corners were
rounded with a small hand held belt sander. The finish shape was filed in.
All bow ends have a nice tight fit into the sockets- about 3 boofs of the
mallet...
Thanks,
Joe

[Rob McDonald]

JOE, that top bow is very delicate looking. Did you cut them out of a plank or did you bend them (with steam?) from small stock? The slight taper on those bow sockets must must have been a challenge to fabricate. I like your units of measure - how many kiloNewtons in a boof?