How to properly remove a harmonic balancer?

[Budd]

Anyone care to share some insight on how to properly (safely, un-damagingly) remove the harmonic balancer from my 1956 322 V8? I'm dumb enough to not know how, and smart enough to ask... The manual simply says "remove the harmonic balancer" as the first step for the timing chain access, but no details as to how to accomplish that step. Is the 3/4" castelated (sp?) nut there on the crankshaft regular threaded, or reverse threaded?

Cheers,
Budd

[Bill Stoneberg]

Go to Napa or any other auto parts store and rent or borrow a puller. It makes life easier.

Of course on my cars, I just removed the nut, which on the ealier cars are a correctly threaded nut (as opposed to left hand threads) and then with gentle pursuasian, it came off. NO beating on it with a ball pean though, gentle is the key word. Work it off with your hands if you can.

But on my 88, i had to borrow a puller.

[imported_JohnD1956]

Since you're headed for the timingchain, I presume you have already removed the radiator and the shroud. If not certainly put a piece of plywood between the radiator and the balancer.

I would venture a guess that once the bolt is removed, the balancer will pull right off. I haven't met a Buick yet that didn't. But a puller would be recommended if it does not come off easily. No prying or anything else.

I was able to remove the bolt from on top, using pressure to squeeze the power-steering belt and a 3/4 inch closed wrench to hold the power steering pully nut while a helper started the balancer bolt. The bolt was originally torqued at 55 to 65 lbs, so not a lot of pressure is needed.

There is something to watch for on re-installation.

According to my service bulletin book, sometimes the main washer will compress and hit the " shoulder" on the crankshaft. When this happens the bolt can be torqued, but the balancer will remain loose. This will cause a knock at idle and under light load. In extreme instances it will cause the hub of the balancer to break. This happened to me.

The fix is to put another washer in which is wide enough to avoid the shoulder and gives enough clearance for the main washer to do it's job. Supposedly later cars were re-enginered to avoid this problem, but the bok did not contain a date of the tech bulletin.

I have attached a diagram from the book for reference.

[Budd]

Thanks guys, for the info. Yes, I've got free access to the front of the harmonic balancer-- radiator, shroud, etc all removed. I just didn't want to put a wrench on the bolt before I knew which way it was threaded (normal threading, as mentioned above). I do have a puller, so I'll ease it off that way.

Any tips on how to "hold the damn thing still" while you unbolt the 3/4" retaining nut? Mine is on there good-n-tight. I've sprayed it down with PB to help, but it probably hasn't budged in 25 years, so it needs persuasion.

Budd

[jamyers]

I've used the starter to break loose harmonic balancer bolts on later engines, as long as yours turns the right way, it's the easiest method I've found. Get a long-handled wrench (preferrably a breaker bar, not a ratchet) and put it on the bolt with the handle up against a frame rail or something SOLID. Hold the wrench in place, but stay out of the way in case it gets loose and starts spinning, and have a helper BUMP the starter motor. Never failed me yet!

Watch that the socket is on STRAIGHT, and that the wrench handle is against something SOLID.

[Teamsterdug]

Now that's a neat little suggestion. Ain't it something how these little tricks elude you most of the time while you're standing there scratching your head and wondering what to do? We won't get into the "OSHA" aspect of it. Of course these cars were built way before anyone ever heard of OSHA.

[imported_JohnD1956]

I've heard of bumping the starter to break the bolt free, but if that causes you any concern, I'd suggest removing the torque converter inspection plate and then using a pry bar to catch a tooth on the flywheel. That will be a lot safer, but you may still need a helper to hold the pry bar.