How do I remove brake booster assembly on a 57? Help! - Page 2

57Roadmaster75 · April 25th, 2009

Not a fun job. I cursed every 57 Buick engineer that day. Channel locks worked for me. Let me know if you still need to know what size the nut is. I replaced my booster a while back and the replacement came with a new nut. So I still have the old booster and nut at my shop.

lancemb · April 27th, 2009

I finally got the nut off using the chisel/hammer method in about 15 minutes and it is 1-3/4". There are a few burrs I need to clean up but the nut will still be fine. However, I think I am gong to try and recreate the dealer wrench for reassembly and future use. I know I will have to do this again at least once as I want to rebuild the other one!

Smartin · 3 Weeks Ago

Even with the dash off my 58, I am having no luck getting this nut off. I am going out to the garage to try the hammer/chisel method. I even had a big pair of channel locks on it, but there is a bracket sandwiched in there that doesn't allow a full grip with the big channel locks. GRRRRRRRRRRRR

Smartin · 3 Weeks Ago

I had to cut half of the nut off with a 3" grinder and then knock the other half off. It was really rusted on. I had to wrestle the booster out for about 20 minutes after I got the nut off!

I do believe this might be the hardest fight I've ever had just to get one nut loose.

d2_willys · 3 Weeks Ago

Can't u just use a 1 3/4 socket? I haven't been under my 58 dash yet, but will soon as I have to replace the left wiper assembly, and probably take the speedo assy out. Perhaps I can wish these parts out and back in? LMAO!

PS: Should be able to find the KM tool on EBAY, in the next few 100 years!

Smartin · 3 Weeks Ago

I wish..

The brake booster rod sticks out of the hole about a foot, and won't allow a socket to go over it.

The wiper assembly might not be too bad. It is just under the upper dash. The speedometer/instrument cluster is a bit of a bear. I believe you have to remove the water temp sender from the drivers side head and fish it back through the firewall, since it is permanently attached to the temp gauge. The oil pressure sender is removable from the back of the speedo cluster. There are a thousand wires and bulbs that plug into the back of it.

d2_willys · 3 Weeks Ago

Quote:

Originally Posted by Smartin

I wish..

The brake booster rod sticks out of the hole about a foot, and won't allow a socket to go over it.

The wiper assembly might not be too bad. It is just under the upper dash. The speedometer/instrument cluster is a bit of a bear. I believe you have to remove the water temp sender from the drivers side head and fish it back through the firewall, since it is permanently attached to the temp gauge. The oil pressure sender is removable from the back of the speedo cluster. There are a thousand wires and bulbs that plug into the back of it.

Thanks for the info on the speedo and wiper assembly access. My work is cut out for me! As far as the brake booster, well there may be some weird wrench at some of the hardware and farm impliment stores. I am going to take a gander, perhaps at lunch today.

Hey, I just noticed that u r in St. Charles, MO. My wife and I stayed there earlier this year while driving the 58 out from Ohio. Next time I go through there I would like to stop and see the limited. (PM me with your info)

You have the variable pitch dynaflow (PNDLR) in it, right? Mine has the original Flight pitch dynaflow (PRNDG) and is still going strong. Still keep on thinking it will shift, but then I remember how it works.

Smartin · 3 Weeks Ago

Yes, mine is not a flight pitch. PNDLR it is!

I'll PM you with my info.

trp3141592 · 3 Weeks Ago

Hi,

I have seen similarly formed-steel thin-wall sockets used for hub retaining nuts on axles. The steel sockets are called "Locknut sockets." A Google search for found Axle Nut Sockets and http://www.nextag.com/locknut-wrench/shop-html which show thin wall sockets in various sizes. I don't know what size you need, but maybe this is a good start for you.

--Tom

capgage · 6 Days Ago

Guys, this is a tough situation but not undoable, I've done it several times...

* No matter what, you have to unbolt the brackets for the brake pedal from the firewall. Probably even if you have the KM tool. * Take the entire brake pedal assembly off. There are a couple more bolts than the firewall ones, but they are obvious when you look at it.

Go get a 1-3/4" socket from Sears. Grind either hex or oct flats on the small end.

Now, you WILL have to remove the yoke, by loosening the jam nut, from the shaft. Not hard to do though. Once this is off, you can slip the socket onto the shaft and hopefully get enough leverage to get the nut off. You should.

Either use vise grips, channel locks, or for a really slick way - if you ground hex flats, you may be able to slip a long impact socket from HF onto there and clear the end of the shaft to get it off with true leverage from a socket wrench, using the right adapters. You can stack sockets this way for extra depth. Some eyeball bench grinding required, but it's easier than you think.

I have made many tools like this using Harbor Freight impact sockets which are very cheap compared to Sears. In fact, use one of the HF 1-3/4" impact sockets instead of Sears.

I prefer to do this in a situation where the dash is off. But it doesn't have to be. It just turns it into an upside-down operation if the dash is not off.

Mark