55 Special drive shaft won't seperate from pinion

[special55]

Hi Guys,

I have the entire axle, torque tube and drive shaft removed from vehicle. I have removed the pin holding the shaft to the pinion. I know the manual calls for a special seperator to remove the shaft from the pinion but has anybody had any luck without the tool?

I imagine the tool is extremly difficult to come bye.


Is it time for the blue tip wrench and BFH?

Any advice is greatly appreciated.

Rich

[old-tank]

Rich
Congratulations (or condolences) on tackling this job.
I made a puller using the front and rear flanges from a 55 Buick torque tube. Using this method, forces are directed through the front pinion bearing and this could damage it; I have used it on 3 R&R projects and loaned it for 4 other projects without any issues. The other way that I used before this was to have a driveline shop cut off the tube (shaft), press the remainder off the pinion and then weld the tube back on after pressing on to the pinion ($$$) and then straighten the shaft.
You will not need heat or a BFH using the puller...let us know if you have any other questions. (the puller is shown installing)

[special55]

Tank,

Thanks for the info and great photos. I have two tubes so I may need to make up something as you did. I always enjoy seeing how others have tackled these issues and come up with such inventive ways to solve them.

I've been talking with Mike about his convertible project and he said you helped him out allot on his other 55. I need to find a guy like you here in Michigan to help me out.

Those of us new to the restoration hobbie can learn an awful lot from guys like you.

Thanks again,
Rich

[d2_willys]

Originally Posted By: old-tank

Rich
Congratulations (or condolences) on tackling this job.
I made a puller using the front and rear flanges from a 55 Buick torque tube. Using this method, forces are directed through the front pinion bearing and this could damage it; I have used it on 3 R&R projects and loaned it for 4 other projects without any issues. The other way that I used before this was to have a driveline shop cut off the tube (shaft), press the remainder off the pinion and then weld the tube back on after pressing on to the pinion ($$$) and then straighten the shaft.
You will not need heat or a BFH using the puller...let us know if you have any other questions. (the puller is shown installing)

Can u explain how this pulls the driveshaft away from the pinion? It looks like an installer, not a remover. I would think the 4 nuts would have to be behind the plate to remove the driveshaft.

Also looking a the pinion shaft, it looks like there is a shoulder that could be used to press against to remove driveshaft.

Lastly, does the pinion have a seal at the carrier housing? If so it looks as if someone could very easily use the existing rear end as an open driveline type just be removing the torque tube and driveshaft, installing a yoke and pinning or welding it to the pinion shaft, (or better yet find a 61-63 Buick Pinion and yoke and installing if it works with existing carrier), then installing a 3 or 4 link setup.

[old-tank]

d2_willys
Like I stated the tool showing installing the driveshaft...just reverse the nuts and it will pull. It is easier to understand if you have your parts in front of you. I have never seen a yoke for an open driveshaft installed, but it probably could be done. There is a pinion seal...check the service manual for details.
Willie

[old-tank]

Update: Here is an image that has recently been on the forums... I enhanced it and it shows a 55 Buick rear with an open driveshaft. The lever shocks are present as are the strut rods and the panard bar. Also visible are the pinion locking bolts. There are probably some links above the axle that are not visible.
Willie

[imported_JohnD1956]

Originally Posted By: old-tank

Update: Here is an image that has recently been on the forums... I enhanced it and it shows a 55 Buick rear with an open driveshaft. The lever shocks are present as are the strut rods and the panard bar. Also visible are the pinion locking bolts. There are probably some links above the axle that are not visible.
Willie

I put that picture there and would like to explain what I was told by the owner. Supposedly that rear axle is from a Chevy Pickup. I thought at the time he said Chevy S 10, but after discussion here I think he meant Chevy C10, from about 1968. Sure wish I had gotten more photos at the time. This car was at a Niagra Frontier Show in 2006 I believe. I did see a Chevy C10 and took some pictures but now I can't remember where I put them.

[special55]

Willie,

Any tips on making the tool?

What did you use to cut the flanges off the tube?

Is the threaded rod hardened or just something you were able to grab at the hardware store.

I'm definately going to make one of these things.

Rich

[old-tank]

Rich
To cut the flanges from the tube I used a metal/masonry blade in a skilsaw and dressed with a bench grinder. Today I would probably try my new reciprocating saw (sawzall). Can't remember how I split the front flange...probably a hacksaw. The rod is just the common hardware store variety. Let me know if you need to borrow mine...might be $10.00 shipping each way...it has already been all over the country.
Willie

[special55]

Willie,

Thanks for the info. I'll probably try the sawzall route. Probably go out and get a nice new blade first.

I just got a new grinder recently so this will give me an opportunity to try it out.

I appreciate your offer to let me borrow yours. I'll keep it in mind if my tool making skills should fail me.

Rich

[imported_MrEarl]

Rich, why don't you start a new post and post some pictures and narrative of your fabrication process. (for us dummies that you have to draw a picture for)

[g-g-g0]

Mr Earl has a great idea! Who has a junk torgue tube that they would be willing to sell the ends off of? I would be interested.

Gary

[imported_buick5563]

Another option if there aren't spare torque tubes laying around would be to take a gasket to a metal fabrication shop and have them make one for you out of 3/8" steel. I would think it would cost less than buying a torque tube if you didn't have one.

[d2_willys]

I like his idea about the tool, but would try and use the pinion retaining nut to push on for removing the driveshaft from the pinion. This method does not put pressure on the pinion bearing. That is unless you cannot get a plate in there when the assembly is together. Would need to see one to fab the tool.

I know a guy in Missouri that has Buicks, he may be able to help me with some pics.

[special55]

Lamar,

Great idea. I will do so when I start construction of the tool. That is as long as nobody gives me grief for cutting up a tube [img]<>/grin.gif[/img]
If somebody needs one Brad should have a spare laying around after his conversion.
I do like Mike's idea of having one made up but I am saving all my pennies for parts towards the restoration.

Rich

[special55]

Hey guys I have been busy getting the frame stripped so I could get it to the blaster's and had to put the drive shaft removal on hold.

I did try something similar to Willie's idea with a couple bearing splitters we had at work but I don't think it distributed the force evenly enough around the shaft. I just wanted to give it a try before cutting up the torque tube.

Here is a pic of the set up I tried.

I will be making the tool Willie made soon and will document it as I promised earlier.

Rich

[Pete O]

I found a guy on the web who sells a special drive shaft puller for Buicks. $119 including shipping, and he takes paypal.

http://www.bayoupc.net/imp/buick.html

[42buickcrazy]

I made one several years ago out of plate steel, and, I would buy the one for $109 in a heartbeat before making one. Mine works, but, I had to use open ended wrenches on it, and I had blisters in my palms when I finally got it apart. Spend the $109, Paul, in Missouri

[old-tank]

Three comments:
1--the tool on the web looks like it will pull well, but not install
2--the bearing splitters as positioned will bend the driveshaft,..any tool used should be in the groove
3--still cheaper to borrow mine.
Willie

[special55]

HELP!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!

If you read my post on fabricating a tool from a torque tube you know I finally got around to making one.

Well I used it just as the picture shows and the shaft would not come off. I had so much pressure on the thing it actually compressed the crush sleeve some more which resulted in a loose pinion nut.

The thing didn't budge a millimeter.


I don't know how I'm going to remove this thing.


Willie, the bearing splitter thing was attempted on my spare axle and driveshaft so no harm done. Thanks for pointing out the flaws in that design.


Any suggestions guys???

Rich

[old-tank]

Rich
I shouldn't have to ask, but did you remove the pin from the pinion/shaft? Also when you do get it off be sure it goes on the same way.
There is no crush sleeve...the pulling forces are directed through the rear pinion bearing (a preloaded double ball bearing) then through a sleeve that the tapered pinion lock bolts go into. I have never had this much trouble or created any looseness in the pinion nut, so you are in new territory.
If all fails remove the pinion with driveshaft attached and take it to a driveshaft place to cut the shaft off and then use a press to remove the remainder from the pinion; then after pressing it on they can weld and straighten the driveshaft tube. Before I made the tool that is what I did on my first project.
Carefull: apply heat while your tool is applying pressure.
Willie

[special55]

Hi Willie,

Yeah the pin is out. I actually made a new tool for that too. I couldn't get the pin out with hammer and punch so I took a broken air hammer bit and ground it to size. I chucked the broken bit up in my cordless drill and spun it down to size on my bench grinder. Still took some effort to get the darn pin out with the air hammer.

Nothing about this drive shaft has been easy.

I really thought I had it nailed yesterday once the tool was finished. I thought for sure the thing would pop off of there. I haven't tried adding heat yet but will do so in a final attempt before I send the thing out to a driveshaft shop.

At least this won't slow me down much as I really don't need to worry about installing the driveshaft until the engine and trans are ready to drop back in.

Thanks for your response and all your help so far. Let's hope a little heat will do the trick.

Rich