[wayneMP]

OK, so winter is coming, cars are put away, time to plan projects. My 364 engine has a Carter AFB carb on it. Previous owner removed original choke set-up and put in an electric choke. This choke failed and was feeding current in a manner that kept the engine running after the key was turned off. When I discovered what the problem was I took out the wiring from the choke and left it on the bench. Car starts but it takes a bit of turning over.
All this is leading up to the question "what electric chokes have other 57 owners out there installed?"

Putting a choke back in will likely add some years to the life of my starter.

[Smartin]

All you need to do is hook the electric choke up to a switched source, so that it is only on when the ignition is in the "on" position. I can't imagine how it would keep the car running after the key was turned off, if it's just connected to a switched source. Where was it connected before you removed it?

[wayneMP]

Hmmmm....let me see, I took it out a year ago. But, I think there were two black wires to the choke, one red wire to the ignition switch and a white wire to the coil. What I do remember for sure is that there was current going through even with the key off and that everything was fine once I disconnected and removed the little black box and wiring. Up to that time it had run just fine. Bottom line is I am now going to replace the electric choke and am searching for info on which the right one.

[Smartin]

There are two leads coming off the choke, right? One goes to switched power, and the other goes to ground.

[NTX5467]

Typically, when somebody took an existing automatic choke off, they replaced it with a manual choke set-up from an auto supply (or similar), not put an electric choke on instead.

Given some of the similarities of the earlier Carter AFBs and the later "Edelbrock" AFBs, it could be that the prior owner used some of these items in this upgrade. If that's the case, replacement parts should be somewhat available, I suspect.
ler
As Adam mentioned, using a switched source to power the choke heater is important. If current was in the circuit with the ignition off, it should have run down the battery?

Holley has an electric choke set-up for their 4150-4160 model 4bbl carbs. One additional part is an "ElectroDyne" thermister to modulate electricity to to the choke thermostat, more with cooler engine temps, less with a warm engine . . . but my experiences are that once the thermostat's set for the engine it's on, then fine-tuned so that it comes off quickly but not too quickly, you don't really need the thermister in the circuit . . . at least in the DFW area.

Many of the OEM electric chokes get their voltage via an oil pressure sensor, whether as an integral part of the normal oil pressure sending unit or by a separate switch for engine oil pressure. Otherwise, making sure the power to the choke heater is only there when the ignition key is "ON" is important.

As a related issue, did that particular model have an insulated tube from the exhaust crossover in the intake manifold which went from the manifold to the choke thermostat housing? In some cases, they would take exhaust heat to the thermostat, where a small hole connected to intake manifold vacuum INSIDE the carb would help pull heat into the thermostat area to help heat the thermostat coil and result in quicker choke opening. If the existing choke was converted to "electric", then how these other "exhaust heat" issues were dealt with might be important for the carb acting correctly.

Just some thoughts,
NTX5467