tc died

[rofly1]

when stopped at a light today the car just stalled. when i tried to restart the car it turns over but wont kick in. there is fuel getting to the fuel rail. can anyone offer any suggestions? waiting for the tow truck thanks roger

[simplyconnected]

Got spark? Good air flow? Exhaust clear? Add (waterless) gas, and it should go as long as it's not flooded.

[car_chick]

Coil connected and working? All Vaccuum Lines intact?

Another thing to consider that happened in my LeBaron with the 2.2 motor - the distributor has a nylon gear vs metal. If the gears are sufficiently worn, the distributor will "jump" a couple of teeth and completely mess up the timing and the car won't run, but will crank. It can happen suddenly. New distributor and good to go.

[imported_Bill Reichert]

4 or 6 cylinder?
Engine codes?

[simplyconnected]

Have someone crank the engine while you put your hand over the intake, and verify it's sucking. If you cam wore down, it won't pull intake. (You can also check the exhaust for pressure.)

That happened to me. They had a bad heat-treat run on camshafts, and I got one. Dealer fixed it for free.

[LouZ]

Hi, Any time I have an electrical problem with a TC, I always suspect the "Fuseable Links". There is a heavy black wire that comes off of the positive post of the battery. When you follow it about 10" from the post it goes into about a 1/2" diameter torpedo shaped push together connector. Seperate the connector & check the brass connections. If is dirty clean it, if it is loose you can spread the male insert slightly to tighten the connection, about 4" to 6" from there is a multiple connector,( it goes from 1 heavy wire to about 8 different colored wires) these are fuseable link wires.(the car's first defense against burned wires), use a very sharp test light and probe the end of the wire where it comes out of the multi- connector and where it ends into regular wires about 6" to 8" away. They should always be "hot". replace anyone that isn't. Then check the Fuse Panel. Good Luck, Lou

[imported_TwinCamFan]

Is the Camshaft turning? Does the tachometer 'bump' a little when you crank it? No movement on the tach needle = bad HEP/dstributor pick up plate.


Alan

BTW guys it's an 89 Burgandy/Ginger/auto car, I searched his other posts. He had a dead battery/no start a couple mnonths ago and Sears put in a new battery [img]<>/confused.gif[/img]

[rofly1]

Thanks for all of your advice. Had it towed to a mechanic and he said it is the timing belt. Sound right to you knowledgeable folks Roger

[LouZ]

Timing belt should be replaced at 100,000 mi. I have seen them go to 120,000 Lou

[simplyconnected]

YEP! Only one plug fired (if that), no intake suction or exhaust. Thank God your pistons cleared the valves.

Your mechanic should have you back on the road in no time.

[rofly1]

back to life......the only change is at idle, seems like its not idling as smoothly as before...could the timing need adjusted? thanks again roger

[LouZ]

That was a simple job, as they go; but still a major job, I always double check the belt timing marks. it's easy to go 1 tooth off, and that will make a major difference, Check compression on all cylinders and set static timimg, Replace spark plugs, and wire sequence.. All that should be done as a normal completion of the job; ~ But ~ it's probably a dirty spark plug, injector, or vacuum line error..
Good Luck, Lou

[TC Toad]

The rough idle could be caused by ignition timing been off. Make sure you unplug the coolant temp. before checking the engine timing, or the timing will show incorrectly. Like Lou said, this should have all been done with the installation of the new belt.

[simplyconnected]

Did he disconnect the battery? Sounds improbable, but it's possible. Your computer may have lost its starting/running history. A few more starts will straighten that out.

I hope he got the timing marks correct. Lou's right. So many times they are off by one tooth.

I'll give your mechanic the benefit and say he left a vac hose off. Bring it back if it doesn't straighten out by next Monday.

[LouZ]

Hi, 1 other thing I should have mentioned. As the belts get old, and worn they stretch a little, this automatically retards the cam timing a little, one of the qualities of retarded cam timing is a smoother running engine. Possibly, not probably, your engine was idling smoother than normal because of the old stretched belt... Lou

[imported_TwinCamFan]

What does it run like when you drive it hard? Lazy sluggish low RPM acceleration and kick butt high RPM surge? If so, cam is retarded one tooth. Or really strong low end grunt but then at 4500-4800 it stutters and falls on its face? If so cam is advanced one tooth. or jsut all around less power than you remember? Ignition timing is retarded. Lots of things it could be, what other symptoms other than reduced idle quality?

Alan

[rofly1]

Lou,
I should have said that I also had all of the belts changed at the same time. by the way, I checked the rear brakes for that hydrolic whine we discussed and the mechanic checked them too, there was a little rust on the rotor which he sanded off with an orbital sander and now it seems worse....happening more often thanks again Roger

[rofly1]

Alan,
I havent tried pushing hard, but that makes sense...I will try it on the way home from work tonight...thanks Roger

[LouZ]

Have you pulled the wheels then the hubs and checked the "wheel bearings.? Remember the rear on our TCs is just like the fronts on the old rear drive cars. 2 bearings, 1 seal, & a bunch of grease.. Lou

[rofly1]

the wheel bearings were changed about a year ago when i had the problem on the pa turnpike. had to get a caliper housing from larry carlson and it was replaced. it was the driver's side rear wheel. roger