1937 Dodge D5 Sedan

[FrankD]

Hello!

I am a new member to the forum.

I am also the happy owner of a 1937 Dodge D5 sedan! Only a few minor issues.

- I need to repair the float for my gas tank.
- I need to remove the reflector from my headlamps.
-I also would like to figure out why I cannot get the reproduction rubber gasket seal to adhere to my front crank out windshield.

I will post pics if needed.


Any help would be appreciated!

Thanks guys!

Frank

[1930]

Welcome to the forum Frank, we love pictures

[keiser31]

For the headlamp reflector removal, try this...

[1930]

Lay the gasket in the sun and then even a hairdryer would help and worse case some kind of windshield urethane might help
Put the float in water and see where the holes are and then solder and Keiser hopefully helped on the H/lamp

[FrankD]

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0272.jpg

The bulb does not work, the whole socket is shot. Does anyone have a suggestion for lighting kits? Does such a thing exist? I would like to add turn signals while Im in there.

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0271.jpg

The outer window seal is what needs to be attached to the window. Every time I turn the crank, the window opens and the rubber outer seal falls off. I try to get in the grooves (Which works for a few seconds) then it comes undone. Does anyone know how this attaches permanently?

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0260.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0263.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0265.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0264.jpg

http://i88.photobucket.com/albums/k1...6/IMG_0259.jpg


I look forward to your responses!

Frank

[keiser31]

Very nice car!

[FrankD]

Thank you good sir! It took alot of time and effort to get it to the shape she's in now!

Frank

[FrankD]

I also forgot to mention with the window seal its the outer rubber seal out of the two. It wont stay in when I open the front window. The grooves wont seam to hold it well, Is there a universal piece of rubber I could use to just wrap the window?

Thanks for the help!

Frank

[1930]

Frank, do you have a copy of the D.B club roster, I bet there are other similar owners listed there that could prob. answer this question if one does not pop up. Nice car and if you would like I could thumb thru it and see if I recognize anyones name that would help you with this info.

[Steve9]

Frank, I bought original headlight parts from Donald Axelrod for my 36. He advertises in Hemmings. Also, you might look at Restoration Supply Co. online. Their catalog shows 7" reflectors with options for turn signals too. Good luck.

[1930]

I have dealt with Donald and talked on the phone with him, have no complaints

[1936 D2]

Hello!
...
1) - I need to repair the float for my gas tank.
2) - I need to remove the reflector from my headlamps.
3) - I also would like to figure out why I cannot get the reproduction rubber gasket seal to adhere to my front crank out windshield.
...

Hi Frank!

Welcome aboard with your good lookin' '37!

1) - I think the float in the tank is "cork". I would think any type of float material would work as long as it is very close to the same size. Just be sure it is made for the newer "ethanol" (read "garbage") gasoline. Hate to go through all that work and have it fall apart. Also, there is a company called "Atwater Kent Manufacturing Company" that can remanufacture the whole sending unit if need be. ATWATER KENT MANUFACTURING COMPANY
2) - There are a couple threads I have just posted photos in that have photos of the headlight parts for '36 Dodge. They essentially are the same for '37. Check out: NEWBIE WITH 36 DODGE D2 Post #19 and: 1936 dodge headlight coupling Post #11.
I realize these are, again, for '36 but the idea is the same. In Keiser31's post with the pictured instructions, you will be working with the part about 1/2 way down where it speaks about loosening the bottom screw to the first section where it spins free (that releases the reflector so it can tip) so you can remove the lens. Once the lens is out, there are three (as I recall) flat spring clips that are under the cork gasket on the reflector rim. You should just be able to pull on the reflector and the spring clips will release, letting the reflector go straight out the front of the bucket. Do this slowly so as to not lose the coiled tensioning spring(s). Remove both bulbs and you will easily see how the sockets twist to come apart from the reflector. They are also a bit spring loaded.
3) - Check the repro windshield seal and make sure it is the same cross-section shape as your original. (In other words, that you have the correct replacement part). This gasket can be put in either direction so make sure it is in facing the right way. (I think, as I recall, it will arch back toward the window opening when the window is out of the car, relaxed, and then the outer edge will curve outward when the glass is in place and compressed in the opening with the crank pulling it in snug into place.
The gasket on a '36 is SLID into the groove of the window frame from one of the lower pointy corners but your glass has all round corners. So on this I am not sure. Is there a place around the frame that has an access to a bit larger groove opening so you can start sliding the gasket in? (Possibly at the center of the bottom.) Or the other option would be to get the gasket started by bending the "T" shaped base of the gasket into a "Y" and slowly forcing it into the groove with a couple thin blades like wide putty knives. You DO NOT have to remove the stainless trim that is part of the frame. (At least on the '36). All you will do there is bend the stainless! Leave it in place.
Once you get it all in place, you will have an overlap of extra gasket material at the ends that meet. Be sure you have forced enough gasket material into the groove so the ends do not have to be stretched to meet. (Actually, have them compress a bit). Then, cut the ends of the gasket perfectly straight with a very sharp, thin blade (razor blade), and glue the ends together with super glue. That should be it. Make sure the framed glass is in place, get the frame all centered in the opening, Also make sure the glass frame is not adjusted TOO TIGHT back into the opening. It just needs to compress the inner gasket a bit and flex out the outer gasket edge evenly as it pulls into the closed position. If it is set-up too far into the opening with the top hinges, it could put too much stress on the gasket material in the groove and pop it out of the groove. Also, that amount of pressure could cause your window crank gears to strip! That would be BAD!!! (You can also see those, and how lightly manufactured they are, pictured in the first link I gave above around post #3 - the last two pictures. There is NO SEALER material used when putting this gasket into the window frame. It is a dry fit.
Have fun with all this! I hope there is a '37 guy around the forums here that will chime in and offer advice more specific to your model.

(And you think you have issues... Check out this post: Dodge 1937 . Maybe you can offer some help there too!)

[1936 D2]

Oops. Didn't see the question on the bulb sockets right away.
They are pretty specific to this headlamp application. You mention the socket is "shot" and the bulb doesn't work. If there is enough of it left you may be able to "rebuild" it using some parts from the "Rhode Island Wiring Service". Check out this page: Washers and Contacts . Or check out their main page at: Rhode Island Wiring Service Inc. . I am mentioning this company in particular because they have separate small parts available via web ordering. Something in those parts may be what you need to do the rebuild. There are other companies out there ("Harnesses Unlimited", "Narragansett Reproductions", "Y&Z's Restorations", etc) that can make full harnesses and also have wiring supplies. I used "HU" to supply my harness replacement and I am VERY happy with their work. They also allowed me to add wiring into the "standard" harness for turn signal wiring and fog lamps. That way it was all "hidden" in the harness and unseen by anyone that it is there. It all looks original! It has been in use for over 18 years now with no problems.
Also, most all of these companies can supply a turn signal switch setup, but you will have to design the lamps yourself. I blended my signals into my tail light buckets (unseen) and the fronts are in my horn grilles. Of course you do not have those so you may have to add some creative period style lamp housing to the front bumper bracket or such. I do not suggest putting them IN the headlight buckets. They will get washed out there when the lights are on and people do not look for them there. They will just think your headlights are messed up!
Again - Have fun!

[1936 D2]

Is this the windshield gasket you used?

Weatherstrip, windshield. For many swingout windshields, for perimeter of glass frame. Approximately 11 foot strip. Many WPC cars. Especially 1935-39 Dodge, Plymouth and P/U trucks through 1946.
Steele Rubber Products #40-0018-52.....$ 49.60/ea.

https://secure.steelerubber.com/homeframes.html

[1930]

You forgot to mention that the cork needs to be sealed otherwise it will eventually just sink, your slipping D-2
Actually I would be surprised if it still was cork on that late model but you know them better than I do

[FrankD]

Yes! That is the Gasket I used! It wont stay in though! I cannot open the window enough where I can pinch the rubber in the frame at the top of the window.

Perhaps the gasket does not work.

Frank

[FrankD]

Hey guys! Just wondering if anyone could help me with another conundrum. My license plate light bulb has blown out. Odd...I know, It just popped. Does anyone know where I can find a new bulb? It reads "GE Mazda 63-L".

Thanks for any help!

Frank

[keiser31]

I have a couple that say "63" and 6-8 volt on them that look like this...sorry about the poor photo. keiser31@charter.net

[1936 D2]

You could try this...
Vintage 6 volt light bulbs No. 63 | eBay

Oh yes, on that earlier windshield gasket problem, I was never able to successfully install that windshield frame gasket with the window in place. I found I always had to remove the windshield to install the gasket. You should be able to get at the windshield hinges by removing the header piece on the inside (where the sunvisor(s) are attached) to be able to get at the hinges. Mark them carefully so you have a starting point when re-attaching the hinges later. When the glass and frame are out of the car, install the gasket as mentioned before. it should be in place fairly securely if in correctly. Then replace the windshield. The windshield MAY seat outward just a bit more than with the old gasket. The main idea here is that when the window closes that both the top and bottom press into the opening evenly when the window is closed. It may be necessary to move the top out a bit more than it was before removal, to accommodate the new gasket material. Again, you want all of the gasket surface to be pressing into the opening evenly when closed. You do not have to have it killing the gasket when closed either! If the whole thing is pulling the window in too far when closed, that may put excessive pressure on the gasket and may pull it out of its mounting groove. You just want it to be tight, evenly, all the way around, but not extremely deforming or inverting the gasket when closed.
Good luck! (Sorry for the late response on this gasket thing. I don't know what happened with the forum notifications. I never got notified of your post from March 28th).

[1936 D2]

Hey FrankD!
Maybe "Mudgy" will help you out with the headlamp internals, hopefully for a reasonable price since he is rodding his! Try a PM to "Mudgy".
http://forums.aaca.org/f143/1937-d5-...tml#post929738 (Read all the way to the bottom).
Good luck!

[keiser31]

I have these two N.O.S. 1937 lamps for sale....

keiser31@charter.net

[Mudgy]

......

[keiser31]

I have found out that the lamps I had for sale above may have been for a truck. The lamps are sold. The internals would fit your lamps.

[Mudgy]

......

[rayjay1902]

i owned a 37 diodge sedan. i bought it back in 1979. i was the 3rd owner. it was all original, down to the wires. i put a new carb on it just because i had a nos. i used this car summer and winter and she never broke down. i had a few mornings of really cold weather that kept her from turning over , but i lived on a hill and i just pop start her. anyways i got married in 1990 and had to sell her. last summer i was at a car show and i stumbled onto the guy that bought her from me. he said he drove her for a week then put her in a storage container and planned to chop her into a hot rod. he never got to it and the car is still there today. i was goingto buy her back but i just bought a 1917 dodge. so if anyone is up for a great 37 i know where there is one in CT. the only thing missing on the car is the front emblem.....but i have it..lol