Dodge & Dodge BrothersDiscuss 1927 DB Coupe in the DOMESTIC MAKES & MODELS forums; I just bought a 1927 Dodge Brothers Coupe. From some of the documentation with the car, I think it's a series 124. The car is complete and runs. My problem ...
I just bought a 1927 Dodge Brothers Coupe. From some of the documentation with the car, I think it's a series 124. The car is complete and runs. My problem is that I don't know anything about the car, Including how to drive it. I guess that you have to advance the timing as you work through the gearbox.?.?
Can anyone tell me where to get good information on this car? An owners/operators manual? Original color? Etc, etc?
There are really two major things that make driving the DB 3 speed different from a more modern standard shift car. The first and probably the hardest to get used to is the non-syncromesh transmission. This essential means engine speed and road speed must be matched to allow smooth shifts. If not matched, gear grinding will probably occur. The 2nd major difference is brakes. Unless I'm mistaken, 1927 still used mechanical brakes on the rear wheels only. This means you don't have the braking power of a newer, 4 wheel hydraulic brake system and so must judge stopping distances accordingly (longer distance, more pedal effort). The timing and fast idle levers on the steering column aren't such a big deal. You just want to make sure timing lever is to retard spark position for starting the car and the fast idle lever is adjusted to keep idle speed up when the engine is cold. Oh and there is the choke over on the far left that you would pull out for a cold start. The spark lever can be advanced (up) once engine is running. The Dodge Brothers 'Book of Information' goes into more detail on starting and shifting. Reprints are usually for sale on Ebay or from the two principal vendors that sell early DB parts (in the U.S.), Myers Early Dodge and Romar. Have fun driving!
1st step is finding and posting the serial number. It is on the passenger side frame rail just above the rear shackle of the front spring. Also originally on the toe board upper passenger side on an aluminum plate. I am fairly well versed on the 124 models. Easiest i.d. is the distributor mounted through the cylinder heard and the carb and exhaust on the right hand side of the engine. If it is a 124 you will find the choke to the right side of the dash.
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
Another difference on the 124 is the timing and hand throttle is in the center of the steering wheel, around the horn button, instead of behind the wheel. Shift pattern is like modern cars instead of the backwards earlier DB's pattern. Yes, rear wheel brakes only.
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
Thanks, MikeC5. From your post I'm assuming that the starting position of the timing lever is down, or at about 3 to 4 o'clock. This may explain the rough idle.
Nice looking machine Doobby. I have a '25 touring car and it does appear that the spark and idle is handled a little differently on '27. I'm sure more knowledgeable folks on this style will chime in.
It is indeed a 1927 124 model. Built between June 7th and June 21 1927. Looks like a nice car. I would love to see more pics of, especially the dash, steering column, engine compartment, etc.
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
DB's have centrifical advance in the distributor as well as manual on the steering wheel. You can pretty much just advance the timing once it is running and not mess with it til you go to start it again.
Double clutch when you shift. As I said earlier, the 124 has the modern SAE shift pattern so nothing to get used to there, other than double clutching due to no synchros and straight cut gears. The "D" fast four engine has 5 main bearings and has more beans than the earlier engines. BTW, engine numbers should be D950,000 or higher.
Your interior looks all original except for the 1 black face gauge. Amp gauge? It has the standard dash.
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
Will upload more photos as soon as I can. For some reason, pics won't upload right now.
Limiting your photo pixel size to 2000 pixels or less in both directions will help load photos.
1931 Dodge Brothers DH6 business coupe w/ wire wheels
1931 Dodge Brothers DH6 business coupe w/ wood wheels (my 1st car and still have it)
1967 Dodge A100 V8 compact pickup
and visions of my past old cars
Nice! Other than an aftermarket coil it looks pretty correct. I need a couple of those little clamps that hold the choke cable to the vacuum line. Anyone have extras or know where they can be purchased? Doobby, one simple thing I would change, run the fuel line around the front of the engine on top of the timing cover. You will avoid the dreaded vaporlock problems. Where it is now is right between the block and the exhaust and will definitely get hot there. There should be a steel loop type clamp on one of the timing cover bolts to hold it steady. Other than that, Happy Motoring!
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
Dave, looks to me like that clamp is just a small (1/2") screw type hose clamp that was placed around the choke cable and the vacuum line. I'd be worried that it would eventually wear through the copper line and cause a vacuum leak.
By Golly Jim I think you are right! Well, in that case I don't need those! LOL There are some factory clamps that work like that, I think my DA had one, can't remember for sure.
Dave Wollam
1916 Model T Speedster
1920 DB Touring
1922 DB Screenside
1923 DB Roadster
1924 DB Screenside - For Sale
1924 DB Roadster
1925 DB Business Coupe
1926 GB 158" WB Truck
1927 DB 124 Roadster #1
1927 DB 124 Roadster #2
1927 Ford T Roadster
1931 Ford A Roadster P.U.
1931 Ford A Std. Rumble Seat Coupe
1936 DB LC 1/2 Ton P.U.
1940 Ford Std Tudor Sedan
1951 Ford Custom 4Dr. Sedan
1951 Ford Custom Club Coupe
1962 Dodge Lancer 4Dr. Sedan w/340
1968 Plymouth Barracuda Coupe 340 4spd.
After a little more research, I found out that my coupe's original color was Tartan Green. Can anyone show me an example of Tartan Green? Can't seem to find anything.
Thanks Doobby for the pictures of your new, cool Dodge. My '25 touring is similar, It's green, but repainted in the 1960's, I think. some of the red pinstriping is worn off in places. I'm not quite sure if it is Tartan green, looks a bit lighter than the coupe pictured at the above post. I have been compounding and waxing the finish. I've taken off a lot of grime. On your Dodge, pay close attention to the bottom insides of the vacuum tank, where water settles and rusts them out from the insides. The vendors sell new gaskets for the Stewart vacuum tanks, get your hands on a copy of the "owner's manual" where there is great info on the driving and owner adjustments of your Dodge. The Mechanic's Handbook is of great value also for more in-depth adjustments and repairs. You're going to have a real blast driving that coupe!!
I've been tooling around the neighborhood lately and it's great. Have some issues to work out, but nothing we can't handle. Problem is that there's just not alot of information out there. Mine has a 4 cylinder D engine. Can't find any info on that. I have the mechanics handbook, but it only shows up to the C engine. Anybody know where I can find something on this?