Help with a '53 ford Customline

[Focus]

Hey all, glad i found this site. Looks like a lot of helpful info on here. And i need some help. I've got a 1953 Ford Customline with the flathead V8 and it keeps overheating. I've taken the t-stats out, put new ones in, flushed the radiator, and its running straight water now. It runs cooler than it did but still hot, and then it eventually overheats. I found that the radiator has a lot of tiny pinholes in it and is leaking pressure which is why i believe its overheating. So, i need a new one. i've searched a lot of places online and have found nothing. Does anyone know where i can find one? I'd really like to fix this problem asap so i can get it on the road.

Thanks in advance!

[simplyconnected]

Obsolete has new radiators:
Obsolete Classic Auto Parts
Speedway does too:
Speedway Motors

I don't know if these are your exact replacement, so call them before you order.

Your car is designed for a pressurized radiator. Each pound of pressure (it's on the cap) raises your boiling point by three degrees F. If you're in the mountains, this makes a BIG difference because water boils at LOWER than 212 degrees F. So, a seven pound cap will raise the boiling point to 3 x 7 = 21 + 212 = 233 degrees.

Water is a great coolant, but a terrible 'everything else.' Get some antifreeze, quick. It will inhibit rust and lubricate your water pump. Mix it at 50/50 for the most benefit. CAUTION: Don't mix different kinds of antifreeze. If you get green, stay with it. Mixing green with orange will turn it to mud.

Hope this helps. - Dave Dare

[Focus]

thanks! i will look into that tomorrow.

[prof pat]

Simple things to check. Flow, while cool, fill radiator, and watch (with the engine running) to see how much flow is coming through after the engine warms up and opens Stats.
After of fifty years propellers will rust away. Also, even new Stats can be bad, if all else fails, change them again.

[simplyconnected]

I also have a Ford Customline. When I hear about overheating problems with engines this old, I think of the fifty+ years of rust accumulated inside the water jackets surrounding your cylinders.

The proper way to fix this is to pull the engine, remove the freeze plugs, and chemically remove all the rust inside the block. Your flathead is a great engine. It should have cooling capacity for the hottest desert, without any problem.

There are only four components to your system:
Block, Water Pump, Thermostat, and Radiator (some cars have a heater core, too).

That's it! Make water flow freely in a pressurized system, and you are good to go anywhere (just like when it was new). I believe the stock radiator was called "desert cooler." That's what's on my Customline. It's all copper and it's HUGE! - Dave

[Focus]

thanks everyone you've been a great help. I have noticed that there is water moving freely when the motor is running so i'm almost positive that the water pumps are still good. Like i said before i'm pretty sure there are pin holes in the radiator causing it to not build pressure. But i am going to replace the thermostats one more time, maybe go down 10 degrees to 170 instead of the 180's that are in it, and see what happens.

Also, I'm wanting to make sure the generator is still good. I just put a brand new optima battery in it, and its reading 6.29 volts when its off, but i cant get a reading when the car is running to see if the generator is working. How do you check the voltage on these? when i put the voltmeter on the battery while its running the voltmeter goes haywire. Other than these two things, the car is awesome and i love having it. Just want to get these last things resolved so i can start going to some shows again. I may even put it up for sale since I'm looking for a '48 Ford F-1 truck. but we'll see.

[simplyconnected]

Originally Posted By: Focus

... but i cant get a reading when the car is running to see if the generator is working. How do you check the voltage on these? when i put the voltmeter on the battery while its running the voltmeter goes haywire...

You are using a digital volt meter. As voltage goes up and down (even a few tenths of a volt) the meter is so sensitive, it wants to report ALL those readings. A cheap analog voltmeter (with a needle) will show what you need to see.

I'm afraid your generator DIS-charges your battery unless it is going 1,500rpm. They all do. That's why everyone goes to an alternator. Even at an idle, an alternator will lightly charge your system, and keep your battery at 6.2v. This has always been a problem with generator systems.

Your car was made to run at a decent speed. Excessive idle (Chicago or L.A. rush-hour on a hot day) will discharge your battery and overheat your engine. That's why OEM's went with electric fans and alternators.

Get a good radiator and at least 180-degree thermostat (not below). Your system needs to run at this temp, under radiator cap pressure.

[Focus]

what pressure cap? i'm pretty sure the cap that is on it now is 7lbs. should it be a 3lb cap?

[simplyconnected]

If you are running with a seven pound cap, that's great. Did you get a radiator, or fix the one you have?

[ford40]

make sure you install the thermostat the right direction.