1928 & 1930 Model A Tudors

[matter]

I think you may be right about it being a 31. The fuel shutoff is under the hood on the firewall vs in the passenger compartment. I think that was one of the changes between 30 and 31.

[matter]

New battery cables (heavier than what was there), new inline fuel filter, new screen filter in carb (original was missing), new points, new cap and cable to coil, and new plugs. Just waiting on a timing wrench to get that set, then hope to get it fired up by next week. Will running it get all the carbon out of the cylinders or will I have to pull the head?

[58Mustang]

What is a timing wrench?
On a "A" you remove the timing pin from the timing cover with an ordinary wrench, turn it end for end and stick it back in the hole. Turn the engine with the crank until the pin drops into a hole in the cam gear. Set the points until they are just starting to open and you're done

Addendum.
I just Googled "Timing wrench". I'm sure they are nice, but Model "A" timing has been set a bazillion times without one. 35 bucks seems like a lot of dough for a tool that you might use 2 or three times in a lifetime

[jpage]

They sell a little flat sheet metal wrench used to hold the distributor cam when loosening the cam screw and can turn the cam and hold it in place when retightening the cam screw. There is some play that you want to take out before you set your timing. Those wrenches should only be a coulpe of bucks!

[matter]

Well, I figure I'll be using it again on my 28. Any excuse for a new tool. Lol. After I'm done with these two I'm hoping to pick up a few more. There's one for sale less than a half mile from me now. Have to stop in and check it out

[matter]

I also have the small flat wrench, but need the larger one to turn the engine over to #1 TDC. Then I'll set the cam in the distributor. Also just finished watching the video by Les Andrews, have to check adjustment on the steering column.

[jpage]

This is what I used to do ,but you're not supposed to. I'd reach over and push down on the starter rod to crank the engine to a position close to the indent hole on the camshaft. Because there is little compression I was able to grab the fan and turn the engine enough to line up the hole and pin. I'd back the dist. cam up a bit to remove play and set the cam. Then I would turn the key on and with the fan gently reverse the engine enough to close the points. Then I would turn it in the direction of rotation with the pin in the hole and listen for the snap of the spark. If it occured when the pin fell into the hole I knew it was right. Don't push or pull too hard on the fan (if it's original ) 'cause they can break! No real need for a tool to turn the engine,just use the crank!

[matter]

Sounds interesting

[matter]

I was going to do the timing today but the electric junction box on the firewall fell into about 15 pieces. So spent my time wiring in the new one. Does anyone know the best way to clean carbon out of the cylinders (without removing the heads). Is there something to add to the fuel? Thanks for any advice in advance

[Bleach]

There is a way I've cleaned carbon without pulling heads but it requires the engine to run. Do it at your own risk. You pour some water and ATF at the same time into the carburetor while revving up the engine. I'm not sure how well it'll go with an updraft carburetor but it worked good on an old beater with a downdraft carburetor. There were huge amounts of smoke and steam and the engine had a tough time trying to keep running but it seemed to run better after all the smoke cleared.

[matter]

Sounds interesting, but I don't want to risk hydrolock or worse. I wouldn't count on the engine taking a beating like that and still run. Thanks though.

[matter]

Set the timing, made sure everything was good to go, and tried to fire her up. Ran great for a whole hot 5 seconds, then wouldn't fire again.....sigh. Have a friend coming tomorrow to see what I've done wrong

[Dave Mellor NJ]

You remembered to open the gas cock, didn't you?

[matter]

Lol ... Yes.

[matter]

Apparently at some point in the past someone cobbled a pigtail wire from the bottom to the top plate. It was grounding out against the side of the housing. A little black tape and taa daa! Fired up and ran good, skipped a little so I'm going to re-check timing and clean the plugs again. Found an exhaust leak at the manifold (new gasket will sort it out). I've been going over my carb, which is a Zenith when I realized that the float shutoff valve is a Tolletson rather than from a Zenith. Is that a normal substitute or did someone mess that up too?

[matter]

Took it out on the road today for a short run. Cleaned the plugs, shimmed the fuel shutoff ball valve (worked well), retimed it, and she fired up first try. Want to run it a bit before I pass judgement on the clutch.

[matter]

Passed inspection, legal rolling traffic slowing device now

[bubaroo]

Matter,
I have been following your posts and others replies with interest. I live in Westchester County NY and just got a real barn find completely stripped with no grill, tags, fender, glass or any identifying marks just a shell. Since you have both a 28 and a 31, is there a way to tell what year it is by body style alone? It's a Tudor by the way.

Thanks,

[MCHinson]

bubaroo,

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The following link may help you identify your body.

MAFCA - What Year Is It?

[bubaroo]

bubaroo,

Welcome to the AACA Discussion Forum. The following link may help you identify your body.

MAFCA - What Year Is It?

Thank you but unfortunately the body came with no radiator, no running boards, no instrument panel, headlights, motor, etc. It's just a body shell (In amazing shape) on a indescript frame. No way to identify using their methods.
Are the doors larger, windows larger on 30/31

Any other ideas???????

Anything is appreciated..... Thank you..

[MCHinson]

Look at the cowl (the area just in front of the base of the windshield). You should be able to identify it as 1928/1929 or 1930/1931 by comparing it to the photos on the MAFCA site. That is as close as you can get.

[Dave Mellor NJ]

This is a 29, the 28 is the same. Note the cowl as Matt said, also the body beltline molding,which is a flat raised area going all around from one doorpost to the other.

[Dave Mellor NJ]

Note the differences in this 31 which is the same as the 30, it has double halfround molding and the more graceful cowl

[Dave Mellor NJ]

[matter]

If it's already stripped down to that point, finish the process and lift the body off the frame. Stamped on the top of the frame should be the vin number and that can be uses to figure out it's production date. Congratulation on your find and good luck! I had an exhaust leak (bad gasket) and it was blowing right into the carb. So when I would take it out it seemed as though it was choking out. So I pulled the manifolds and just waiting on the parts to put it all back together.




---
I am here: http://tapatalk.com/map.php?3tu4vo