[dlh61olds]

If you are referring to BT-33-1, I have the tool.

The distance between the holes (center to center) is

4 and 9/16 "

The distance between the center of the stud and the center of the closest hole is 2 and 3/32 ". There is a 1/2 " off set between the stud and the closest hole.

The distance between the center of the stud and the farthest hole is

6 and 1/2 "

Try Bill Sawyer 120 Monger Rd. Rockwood TN. 37854
423 354 4695 Evenings

I bought mine from him.

Hope this helps, Dave Holt

[dlh61olds]

I forgot to tell you , you must get the carb adjusted as perfect as you can FIRST. Then go thru the entire adustment procedure step by step. The throttle and kick down linkages are super sensitive to the carb settings.

Good luck, Dave Holt

[Starfire61]

I just had a Slim Jim rebuilt by Tom Kasper in South Elgin, IL. He often advertises in JWO & has been working on these transmissions since they were new. I picked up the car yesterday & asked him about this tool & adjustment.

He said he's never had any special tools for the Slim Jim & sets up the linkage entirely by adjusting the upper TV rod at the engine.

I subsequently checked the linkage on three Slim Jims- two rebuilt by Tom & one unrebuilt but shifting well. With the TV crank at its rear-most point of travel, the distance from the hole in the TV crank to the center of the manual shaft (gear selector shaft) was about 6 1/2 inches on all the cars.

BTW, the transmission now shifts great. Previously the car was almost undriveable, as the 1-2 shift was so harsh & abrupt that the car would lurch with the shift. (Yes, I'm convinced that the Slim Jim is a 3-speed; it says so right in the '61 manual, & when a guy like Tom Kasper tells me they're all 3-speeds, I believe him!) [img]<>/wink.gif[/img]

During the 1-2 upshift in a Slim Jim, the front coupling empties & the front clutch engages, so the method of power transmission through the unit changes from a fluid to a mechanical coupling. This transition is modulated & cushioned by the front clutch accumulator valve. Within the accumulator valve circuit, there is a tiny wave spring in the valve body called the front clutch bypass valve. On my transmission,this wave spring was broken, which apparently put additional stress on the front clutch accumulator valve. Eventually one of the larger springs in the accumulator failed, which resulted in zero cushioning action during the upshift.

According to Tom Kasper, no one makes these little wave springs anymore. Furthermore, they are pressed into the valve body, which makes them almost impossible to remove without breaking them. So, I wound up with a valve body from another Slim Jim that had good wave springs (there are actually TWO of them, the other is for the neutral clutch.)

I learned more about Slim Jims from talking with this guy for 10 minutes & looking at his workbench than I'd ever learned from trying to read the manual....

Chuck

[KQQLCAT]

This spring is causing what most people are complaning about. The shift from 1st to 2nd. I learned more from the posts here than anywhere else. So what does it cost to have one rebuilt correctly?
Thanks,
Pat