temperature problem

Just got thru doing our local christmas parade. The "DUKE"<BR>while running at normal highway speeds, runs right on the 'c' dot on the guage. but when running in traffic it tends to run just over the halfway point, radiator is brand new and just resealed and full of coolant. Any ideas???????

[RO]

Sounds about what mine runs under the same conditions. It just "depends" on that greater forced convection at cruising speeds. However, with it about 60 degrees out a couple years ago, mine got over past the 3/4 mark and overheated big time in a parade. It can be a combination of things. For example, if the engine coolant passages have not been cleaned out, then crud exists in there and prohibits the proper heat transfer from the the walls to the coolant.

Guys, I also don't know if I trust those 45 year old gauges and temp sensors.

AL: just over 1/2 way is probably about right for conditions of alot of slow speed operation of say under 15 mph (parking lot speeds). BUT, it is difficult to determine exactly. Di it puke out any coolant from the overflow tube at any time during the parade???? Factory (electric) gauges are guess work at best. I've seen them give false readings when other accessories are turned on, like headlites. U mite want to consider mounting a bourdon tube type gauge somewhere under the dash temporarily just to check. they're only about 25 or 30 dollars. I mounted mine permanantly in the clock hole of the dash.

RE : Al K's problem :<P>Al - I cant recall what year Packard you have. I am totally ignorant about the V-8's; have just a little background on the earlier cars. But - bottom line - have faith - this IS an abnormality - just a matter of tracking it down. Once you find it, you will NOT find over-heating in ANY "modern" (meaning post-world war 2) car!<P>As others have pointed out, a big question-mark is water-flow thru old blocks. I pull the side-plates off my Packard Twelve every 10-15 years, and am always AMAZED at how much crud gets in there, in spite of using distilled water and anti freeze...AND I have filters at my water hoses. Not knowing which block you have, can't offer much there. If yours is a straight eight, they had a brass "water distrubtion tube" in the LEFT side of the engine block to assist in proper water flow - that is VITAL. Are you sure your new radiator is of ample capacity ? Water pump "blade to body" clearances are also important. Give us some more info !<P>Pete Hartmann<BR>Big Springs, AZ

The "DUKE" is a 55 Patrician<BR>352 C.I. It did boil over a bit but no much. The radiator is a brand new re-core of 4 years age but probably not much more than 5K miles in usage. Flow is good, but I never had the engine boiled out when I got it. I had the mechanic make it live and I have been running on it ever since, same with the tranny<BR>(if it works and it ain't broke don't fix it). When the temp got up a bit a valve started ticking, this has started up recently(the ticking valve). I have tried Marvel mystery oil and that quiets it down a bit, but I guess with about 90K miles on it I will probably have to have it done eventually.

[RO]

Some other things to check and verify are:<BR>make sure bottom hose is not pinched or collapsing. Is the thermostat fully functional. Since you said it boiled out a little, then we can rule out a faulty sending unit. What about the waterpump condition, i.e., the impellers ok. How "clean" does the coolant remain?

[RO]

Also, the fan. Make sure it has the proper clearance and it is not reversed, i.e., the pitch of the blades for these is designed to pull the air through rather than push it through as on some of those new add-on "pusher" fans.

AL K's overheating:<P>Hi, Al - RO's comments are excellent - I should have thought that ( flow restrictions in the water hoses - of the issue of possibility of restriction in lower hose under "suction" of the water pump). <P>Another thought - modern cars are so much more efficient, and need so much less water-flow, SOME modern thermostats do not have large enough openings to permit as much water flow as cars from previous eras need. I still see "conventional" type thermostats in the parts houses. Could that be the problem ? <P>The fact that the radiator core is recent and clean dosnt answer my question about its FLOW CAPACITY. How sure are you that the replacement core was properly sized to the needs of the engine ?<P>We know ALL "modern" cars (cars built after World War Two) had more than adequate cooling, so you can be confident you WILL solve this - how about taking the car to a radiator shop with a REALLY sharp "expert". He might spot something we cant possibly come up with, without seeing the car and doing a "flow" check. Does the fan have a radiator shroud ( again, I know NOTHING about the V-8 Packards ) ? If it DOES, is it "spaced" right ? If it dosn't, I would STRONGLY recommend you cobble one up - should be easy - I would suspect your fan diameter would be the same as most other cars of the same motor size and era.<P>Keep at it - I am sure you will find the answer !<P>Pete Hartmann<BR>Big Springs, AZ

Al: that 'valve ticking noise' is nothing to take litely on the Packard V8's. ANY other engine i'd say ignore it as a weak lifter. My guess is that the valve is hanging open due to gaulding. THATS WHAT HAPPENED TO MINE. Its ez to remove the LEFT valve cover. Just for chek remove it and using your hands, grasp 1 of the valve springs and see if u can shift it back and forth as if cross ways across the fenders. Thats the way they wear the most. there should be NO perceptable movement at all. It will take quite bit of grip to do it. If there is any perceptible movement then the guides r badly worn.<P>Mine would tick intermittently. SOunded like only ONE. i passed it off as a lifter. It was IN FACT a gaulded valve stem and it finally hung solid AFTER i installed new seals. The Packard V8's DO NOT get enuf oil. FORGET those service notes that say otherwise.