[51Patty400]

I had the water pump rebuild and put it back on the car. I drained the rad and refilled with new 50/50 coolant.

It idles fine at 50% temp, but as soon as I drive it a bit it jumps to 75% temp and a bit higher if I continue to drive.

What the FRIG is my problem with the heat? I don't know the "norm" as I haven't had the car long enough.

Will be testing the thermostat tomorrow.

- Mark
51 Patrician 400

[Albert]

If the thermostat checks out ok, ther is three other possable problems, 1 plugged up rad, 2, rust sludge in the engine block, 3 the brass water distrubtion tube has broken, this runs from the back of the engine to the front right behind the water pump. My 54s run run between the E-M in Temp in both city driving and on the highway, even at speeds of 80mph.

[RO]

Going back in time a few years, I had a running hot problem with the '53 Clipper Deluxe. Had 160 'stat in it, cleaned radiator. I had to have the engine flushed out, which included removing the water distribution tube. The distribution tube was somewhat clogged towards the back of the engine. Had that done plus one of those changed pitch fans from someone in the PAC club. Much better now, but still in hot summer weather, the car does NOT like slow or stop/go driving. In this car I used only water, that Redline water wetter heat transfer enhancer, and No-Rosion. There have been an occassion or two where I put a shroud around the fan and that helps somewhat. The reason I went with straight water is, that yes, using antifreeze will raise the boiling point, but I wanted the car to run cooler, and water alone has a higher heat capacity and thermal conductivity. The car is garaged in the winter, so no problem with freezing over those months. But when my engine was flushed out with high pressure steam, a layer of crud maybe 1/4" thick was dissolved.

Consider looking at the fan belt also. The one on my '47 when I bought it seemed OK but the car ran quite warm similar to yours. I decided to buy a replacement and discovered that the old one was incorrect and rode too high on the pullies. when I installed the new one which sat lower in the pullies the temperature dropped and the generator charges much better.

[BigKev]

On one of my other cars I had a similar problem and it was caused by an air trapped in the cooling system. This can cause issues with coolant flow in the block.

[Mr.Pushbutton]

Try a complete flush with the "number 7" Bordens brand cooling system cleaner. It is a two part dry powder that you add to an empty system, then add water, run engine until it is up to temp, then neutralize with the second powder. Back flush after that, and watch the crud come out of your engine block. Follow the advice of the others and check/clean the distribution tube. Replace all your hoses after this, make sure to flush out the heater core (if so equipped). I have never heard the yarn about plain water having better heat transfer than antifreeze/coolant. I believe this to be an old wives tale as incorrect as can be. Try this: take a sauce pan, fill it halfway with measured, plain tap water and put it on the stove to boil. time (to the second) how long it takes that pot to boil. Repeat that test after the pan has cooled, but add 2-3 shakes of salt from a table saltshaker. The water will come to a rolling boil MUCH faster with just a little salt added. Why? improved heat transfer. Modern coolant/antifreeze will absolutely give the optimal transfer of heat when used properly. This means a 50/50 mix with water--that is how it's formulated to work. Resist human nature--straight antifreeze/coolant is NOT as effective as the 50/50 mix. This will also prevent corrosion of the cooling passages, and your freeze plugs. I have heard of many cars in warm weather states (where C&W music is popular) that are routinely run on water, and they are always a challenge re: cooling vs. age. Be sure to dump and replace the coolant/water mix in your collector car every three years or so. All coolants loose their ability to resist corosion with age.
Some engines never really are happy re: cooling until the engine is rebuilt, during which the block and heads are (hopefully) chemically stripped. I helped a buddy rebuild his '38 Buick engine. Before the rebuild,it ran ok for short jaunts, but would get pissed if you drove at freeway speeds (55-65 mph) then get off the freeway and travel on a slower traffic surface street. Looking inside the cylinder head (after dissasembly) the cooling passages resembled a rust-cavern. You could poke a screwdriver into that rust-shale more than 1/32". The block and heads came back from the Chem-strip place spotlessly clean, just perfectly clean cast iron. The rebuilt engine ran beautifully, came up to temp and held that temp no matter what--fast, slow, highway, parade. steady as a rock. It is a common practice today to paint the freshly stripped cooling passage areas with epoxy primer (DP-90) prio to assembly. Just brush it on. A few mils of E-primer won't affect heat transfer, and retard future corrosion.

Cars of that era DID NOT OVER HEAT when properly maintained. These fellows have given you some good "tips". Getting the engine block interior clean is going to be a bit of work, but if you do it right, and get the water tube right, and the head boiled out, you WILL have solved that portion of the overheating issue.

Radiators can be difficult to really get clean, even when "rodded". You arent going to like this, but the best way to be SURE you arent EVER going to over-heat again, is get your radiator re-cored. You are looking at several hundred dollars, but it may well be necessary. Why ? Radiators in service, especially as they get older, are not treated to the mixture of 50% anti-freeze and 50% de mineralized water that is necessary to keep corrosion from thickening your tube walls, which in turn limits the ability to radiate heat.

By the time your car was designed, radiator technology was highly developed. Set it up right, and your car will NOT over-heat. Promise !

[joe kastellic]

I have used an infared thermometer over the years to pin point "hot spots" this a great little tool you simply aim and shoot and you get the temp. reading, most have a scale from -25 to 999. They were orig. very expensive but they can be purchased for a low price 30.00 -100.00 . Thry can diaganose a number of problems, not just cooling, you can even find a engine miss by finding the cool clyinder. This can be used for brakes by finding the wheel that runs hot therefore not releasing the pad or shoe take care Joe

[imported_Speedster]

Distributor timing being too advanced and Carburetor being adjusted too Lean, can both contribute to Overheating, also.

[51Patty400]

I had the carb rebuilt just before winter. Now I have this problem. I will have to look at this too. Haven't had time to check the T-stat yet but its on tomorrows to-do list.

Thx everyone for the help. Wish i'd bought that NOS rad on ebay for $500 now..lol

- Mark